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Walking and Talking Across Spain - long distance walking chelates the chemicals that trigger my Multiple Chemical Sensitivities

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Camping along the Camino Santiago de Compostela

When I consult with people planning to walk
the Camino Santiago de Compostela, 
one of the most common questions I get is,
"Where will I sleep?"

Each pilgrim has their own private needs, 
and depending on those, 
there is something for everyone.

The next few posts will be about some of the types of accommodation 
you might find along The Way.

Today we'll talk about Camping.

Camping out on the Camino takes a special type of person. 
There are some public campgrounds along The Way. 
Some people will simply sleep out  under the stars. 
Whether or not such "wild camping" is legal 
has been a topic of discussion on the forum
more than once. 


 According to Sylvia Nilsen:
 Wild camping is legal in Spain but with some restrictions. You are not allowed to camp in "urban" areas, these areas are prohibited for military or touristic reasons, or within a 1km of an official campsite. Basically this means you cannot camp on tourist beaches, but if you are sensible and "wild camp" nearby, having some sensitivity to the rules, you can camp almost anywhere in the countryside.  Avoid places called "Parques Naturales" because it is forbidden to place a tent there. There are few ‘wild’ camping places on the Camino Frances as the route passes through many private and state owned farms and vineyards."
  * * * 

I know of several pilgrims 
who have quietly set up their tent or sleeping bag 
next to fields or in forests along the Camino.
Camped out in front of church
Sometimes you are welcome to sleep in on the porches of churches
or other public buildings.
Joe and I slept under the stars at this finca on the Via de la Plata
 I have set up my tent in the courtyard of some albergues, 
such as the municipal at Zubiri 
or at this finca on the Via de la Plata.
 Some pilgrims, like the monk above, 
have found caves, but I'd be careful doing that!  
According to the legend, the monk San Virila 
fell slept in a cave for 300 years 
while listening a nightingale chanting.
When he woke up he thought only a few hours had passed. 
So beware of those magical caves!

Because of my multiple chemical sensitivities, 
I often carry a featherweight tent on the Camino 
so I can sleep out on those nights I cannot find fragrance-free lodging. 
Although I don't suggest every pilgrim
carry the extra weight of a tent,
if you have special needs, it could be a viable option.

Following are some links you might find helpful
if you are exploring the option of camping 
along the Camino Frances or any of the Spanish Caminos:

http://www.camping-spain.net/
www.canalcamping.com 

http://www.campingbungalow.com

http://www.vayacamping.net

http://elcaminosantiago.com/PDF/Map_Spain_Campings.pdf

 Here is a list of campsites that was posted on the Camino Forum:

France

ST JEAN PIED DE PORT:
Camping de L’Arradoy: Tel: 05 59 37 11 75  
1/3 to 1/10: 25 Persons 2** 
Basic campsite. Pets allowed.

Camping Municipal:  Tel: 05 59 37 11 19) 
53 persons - 1* Municipal campsite 200m from the town gate.  
 Pets allowed.

Spain

Aurizberri-Espinal  1/4 to 31/10
Urrobi Tel/fax 948 760 200 
http://www.campingurrobi.com/
400 persons: Adults 3.96 Euro  child - 3.19 Euro
Single etne - 3.96 Euro  Group Tent - 4.13 Euro
Pets allowed, restaurant, cafeteria, mini market
hot water shower, post, telephone.
Credit Cards accepted

Pamplona: All Year
Ezcaba - 8.5 k from Pamplona  Tel: 948 330 315
http://www.campingezcaba.com
Adults– 3.60€ Child – 3.30€
Single tent - 3.60  Group tent – 4.40€
Swimming pool, restaurant, mini market, hot showers telephone 
PUENTE LA REINA – GARES :  All Year 
Errota-El Molino:  Tel: 948 340 604 
7km south at Mendigorria
Tent – 4.20€  1 500 persons 
Adults – 4.15€  Children – 3.30€Hot showers:  Internet:  Restaurant: Mini-market

Estella-Lizarra:  All year
Lizarra  Tel 948 551 733
www.navarra.net.lizarra
lizarrakampinga@navara.net
1000 persons Adults 3.80€ Children – 3.40€
Single tent - 3.80€  Family tent – 4.50€
Pets allowed, restaurant, cafeteria, mini market
hot water showers, post, telephone, credit cards accepted 
 
LOGROÑO:  9/4 to 30/9
La Playa: Tel/Fax: 941 252 253
248 persons:  Adults – 4.50€ Children – 4.00€
Single tent – 4.00€  Family tent – 5.00€
Pets allowed:  Cafeteria:  Hot water showers:
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

NAVARRETE: 8/1 to 9/12
Navarette: Tel: 941 440 169 Fax: 941 440 639
580 persons: Adults – 4.20€ Children – 3.85€
Single tent - 3.85€  Family tent – 4.20€
No pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria: 
Mini-market: Hot water showers:  Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

NAJERA :  1/4 to 10/9
El Ruedo: Tel: 941 360 102
154 persons:  Adults – 3.75€ Children – 3.50€
Single tent – 3.60€  Family tent – 3.75€  Pets allowed: 
Restaurant: Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers:
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA: Open all year
Camping Bánares:  Tel: 941 342 804  5km before Santo Domingo: Full facilities

BURGOS:  1/4 to 30/9
Fuentes Blanca: Tel/Fax: 947 486 016
1 100 persons:  Adults – 3.70€ Children – 2.60€
Single tent – 3.20€  Family tent – 3.80€  Pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers: 
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

CASTROJERÍZ : 1/5 - 31/5 y 1/9 – 30/9  (1/6 – 30/8)
Camino de Santiago: Tel: 947 377 255  Fax: 983 359 549
campingcastro@eresmas.com
150 persons:  Adults – 3.50€ Children – 2.50€ Single tent – 3.00€  Family tent – 4.00€  No pets allowed:  Cafeteria:  Hot water showers:  Post & Telephone: 
Credit cards accepted

 

CARRIÓN DE LOS CONDES: All year
Edén: Tel:979 881 152

289 persons: Adults – 2.40€  Children – 1.80€ 
Single tent – 2.10€  Family tent – 2.40€ .
Hot showers: Cafeteria: Shop:  
Telephone: Pets allowed.  No credit cards.

SAHAGÚN: All year
Municipal ‘Pedro Ponce’: Tel: 987 780 415 Fax: 987 781 112
1 100 persons:  Adults – 3.70€ Children – 2.60€
Single tent – 3.20€  Family tent – 3.80€ 
Pets allowed:  Post and telephone: Restaurant:
Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers:  Post &
Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

MANSILLA DE LAS MULAS :  29/6 to 1/9
Esla: Tel: 987 310 089  Fax: 987 311 810
168 persons:  Adults – 3.70€ Children – 2.60€
Single tent – 3.20€  Family tent – 3.80€  
No pets allowed:  Hot showers:
Restaurant: Cafeteria:  No credit cards.

LEÓN : 1/6 to 25/9
Golpejar de la Sobarriba: Ciudad de León:
Tel: 987 269 086 Fax: 987 214 798
4km from León:  141 persons: 
Adults – 3.20€ Children – 2.75€
Single tent – 3.50€  Family tent – 3.75€ 
No pets allowed:  Hot showers: Cafeteria:
Mini-market: Post and telephone:
No credit cards

VILLADANGOS DEL PARAMO:  14/4 to 28/9
Camino de Santiago: Tel: 987 680 253
494 persons:  Adults – 3.60€ Children – 2.50€
Single tent – 3.00€  Family tent – 3.60€ 
Pets allowed:  Post and telephone: Restaurant:
Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers: 
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

HOSPITAL DE ORBIGO: 1/6 to Sept:
Don Suero De Quiñones:   Tel: 987361018
All facilities:  June to September. 

SANTA CATALINA DE SOMOZA:  15/3 to 15/10
At Santa Colomba de Somoza – bear left on Le142 before reaching Santa Catalina
240 persons:  Post and telephone: Restaurant:
Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers:
Pets allowed: Post & Telephone: 
Credit cards accepted

RABANAL DEL CAMINO:
Wild camping possible in a field at Rabanal 
or the open area just beyond the village:
No facilities

O’CEBREIRO:
Wild camping is possible in field at the back of the village.

SARRIA:
Wild camping possible on the banks of the river –
access from Pont Riberio.

PORTOMARIN:
 Santa Maria – Turn right after crossing the bridge
and then right again by the panaderia. 
1km down the lane.

ARZUA: All year.
Don Manuel:  Turn left 500m from town centre –
behind the hotel. Bar, restaurant, pool.

SAN MARCOS:
Restaurant: Pool: Bar – no shop.

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA:
Monte do Gozo: 20/6 to 25/9
Tel: 981 558 942
1 227 persons:  Adults – 4.18€ Children – 3.46€
Single tent – 4.18€  Family tent – 7.00€ 
No pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria: 
Mini-market: Hot water showers:  Post &
Telephone:  Credit cards accepted.

As Cancelas: All year
408 persons:  Adults – 4.60€ Children – 3.50€
Single tent – 4.80€  Family tent – 4.80€ 
Pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria: 
Mini-market: Hot water showers: 
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted.

Las Sirenas: All year
Tel: 981 898 722 Fax: 981 580 844
300 persons:  Adults – 3.50€ Children – 3.00€
Single tent – 3.50€  Family tent – 3.50€ 
Pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria: 
Mini-market: Hot water showers:  Post & Telephone:
Credit cards accepted.

* * * 

As you can see, there is a fee for camping in improved campgrounds. At times, the fee may be the same or even more than the price of a municipal albergue, so consider this if the reason you're camping is funds.
BE RESPONSIBLE PLEASE
If you decide to camp, please be a responsible pilgrim and leave each campsite looking like you were never there!  One of the scourges of the Camino is trash left by thoughtless pilgrims. This is especially a problem where they choose to toilet and leave their paper scattered along the trail. 
Potty trash left an San Anton - what a shame!
  Not only is this practice disgusting, 
it is unsanitary and a reflection on the sensitivity of visitors 
to this beautiful host country. 
So please, PLEASE... 
whether you are camping or just walking, 
carry a ziplock bag with you and carry your toilet tissue 
to the next town for disposal in a proper container. 
You might also consider carrying a washable hankerchief 
and simply washing it each day with your laundry items.

What type of tent to take?

Because I combine my tent camping with albergue stays, I carry as lightweight a tent as possible. This is the one I purchased. It is a screen tent, to protect me from mosquitos and flies, and if i rains, I can toss my poncho or a nysil tarp over the top.

Other options might include this Contrail tarp tent which comes with netting:


Try to choose a tent that is featherweight (every ounce counts!) 
and that you can put up using your trekking poles.

Sharing with a second person will make the carrying even easier,
as one person can carry the screen tent
and the other person can carry the tarp.

Of course, camping will mean you will have to carry other gear,
such as a sleeping pad, but those don't weigh too much.

Be sure to secure your pack while you are sleeping. 
I suggest you keep it inside the shelter. 
Crime is nearly nonexistent on the Camino
but no need in tempting fate!

How do I keep clean?

There are several options for bathing if you are camping.
Most public campgrounds will offer showers.
Sometimes they are included.
Sometimes there is a fee.

You can stop at a bar for coffee or breakfast
and use their bathroom.
Carry a washcloth and soap with you
and wash up quickly in the sink.
Just don't wash your feet or your children there!
:::grin::
Please BUY SOMETHING if you plan
on using someone's facilities.
And PLEASE clean up after yourself.
Leave the sink clean and dry.

You can also stop at most municipal albergues
and ask if you can use their showers (and kitchen!)
There may or may not be a fee.
Please be willing to pay.
The albergue has water bills just like you do at home.

Another option is to rent a room now and then,
and take a shower there.
In between times, you can clean up with wet-ones
or with a terrycloth you carry
and use when you find water.

NO CAMPFIRES!!!
One thing you may NOT do is build fires along the Camino.
If you haven't stopped for dinner along the way,
carry picnic items such as bread, cheese, meat, and wine,
maybe some fruit and tomatoes
so you can eat before you sleep.

You may absolutely not, under any circumstances
build a fire... EVER!!!

Sleeping out under the stars can be a memorable experience.
It can also be a nightmare if the weather takes a sudden change.

So have a back-up plan and a little cash in your pocket 
in case you decide you need a more sturdy and waterproof lodging.

You may find people will try to discourage you from camping.
I say, 
do as you will.
If your gut and your sense of adventure
is calling you sleep under the Milky Way,
then by all means,
follow your bliss.

Just be prepared
and flexible
in case the ever-changing Camino
has different plans for you!

Buen Camino!
Photo by Lisa Grainger

Love,
Annie
Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 
but are not quite ready to go it alone, 
consider joining Annie
on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 
For more information see our website 
at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

8 comments:

  1. Great article! My son and I plan on camping along the Camino this May, we decided to carry a small two person tent for privacy and protection from the elements.

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  2. Thanks for posting this! I found it very helpful and encouraging in planning my own trip!

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  3. Thanks great info, im bringing a lightweight tent for the camino frances and will spend one or two nights a week in a hostel for showers and social times :)

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  4. Dear Annie, a treasure-trove of information. Absolutely invaluable. Many thanks. Love and best wishes, Antony

    ReplyDelete
  5. Dear Annie, a treasure-trove of invaluable information. Many thanks. Love Antony

    ReplyDelete
  6. Great blog! Thank you. Where did you purchase the tent shown in the first picture? Also, did you ever feel unsafe camping?

    ReplyDelete
  7. Thank you for this wonderful blog! Where did you purchase the tent shown in the first picture? Also, did you ever feel unsafe camping?

    ReplyDelete

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