The walk up and over the Pyrenees is nothing less than breath taking.
The Virgin of Orisson watches over the landscape and
blesses the pilgrims as they pass.
In return, the pilgrims leave gifts and requests
in the nooks and crannies at her feet.
Griffon vultures soar in deep valleys below you.
It's an upside down, strange feeling
to see birds below rather than above.
to see birds below rather than above.
They share the air with Kites, Sparrow Hawks, and Falcons.
Wild horses graze the verdant hills,
barely acknowledging the trudging pilgrims.
Sheep-speak and the soft jingle of cow bells
occasionally break the silence.
barely acknowledging the trudging pilgrims.
Sheep-speak and the soft jingle of cow bells
occasionally break the silence.
There is water everywhere,
on the road, in your hair,
ready to fall from every plant.
Everything is lush and green.
Even the slugs are fat and pretty!
If you are lucky, you may see the sun.
Otherwise, a mystical fog seems to engulf you
as you walk through the clouds
up, constantly up,
one foot in front of the other.
This first day,
though beautiful,
is commonly known among pilgrims as “hell day."
Muscles you didn't know existed
make themselves clearly known to you,
and there is no doubt,
this is a very strenuous climb.
Try not to pay as much attention to your pain
as to the journey.
Drink in the beauty around you
and soon you will find yourself in a deep meditative descent
through beech forest
through beech forest
into the village of Roncesvalles .
Roncesvalles, an autonomous community of northern Spain, is in Navarra province.
It lies 3,220 feet above sea level, northeast of Pamplona.
Nestled in this “Valley of Thorns” in the foothills of the Pyrenees
is an Augustinian monastery.
A hospital was built here in the 12th century
by Sancho de Larossa, the Bishop of Pamplona.
Sancho VII, also called Sancho El Fuerte, was born in 1154 and died April 7, 1234.
King of Navarre (Pamplona) from 1194 to 1234, he was the son of Sancho VI.
Sancho was a swashbuckling but enigmatic personality who offended the Holy See by his friendship with the Muslims; he was in Africa in the service of the Amohads (1198–c. 1200). His absence cost Navarre the provinces of Álava and Guipúzcoa, seized by Castile (1200).
In 1212, however, Sancho fought with the allied Christian army that crushed the Almohads at Las Navas de Tolosa. Sancho granted many municipal fueros (charters). On his death, he was buried in the collegiate church at Roncesvalles, which he had built.
Sancho was the last Spanish-descended king of Navarre for 200 years,
for the crown went to Theobald the Troubadour,
Count of Champagne,
and thereafter remained in French hands.
Sancho VII, also called Sancho El Fuerte, was born in 1154 and died April 7, 1234.
King of Navarre (Pamplona) from 1194 to 1234, he was the son of Sancho VI.
Sancho was a swashbuckling but enigmatic personality who offended the Holy See by his friendship with the Muslims; he was in Africa in the service of the Amohads (1198–c. 1200). His absence cost Navarre the provinces of Álava and Guipúzcoa, seized by Castile (1200).
In 1212, however, Sancho fought with the allied Christian army that crushed the Almohads at Las Navas de Tolosa. Sancho granted many municipal fueros (charters). On his death, he was buried in the collegiate church at Roncesvalles, which he had built.
Sancho was the last Spanish-descended king of Navarre for 200 years,
for the crown went to Theobald the Troubadour,
Count of Champagne,
and thereafter remained in French hands.
 |
| Statue of Sancho VII, called the Forte (Strong), King of Navarre, (1194-1234). In the corner North-Esth facade of the Main Floor of the Real Palace in Madrid. |
 |
| Sancho the Strong's father, Sancho the Sixth. He was known as "the Wise." See the book in his hand. |
The hospital at Roncesvalles received “pilgrims and others
who might wish to lodge at the peak near the chapel of Charlemagne”.
The papacy assumed responsibility for the maintenance and running of the hospital.
who might wish to lodge at the peak near the chapel of Charlemagne”.
The papacy assumed responsibility for the maintenance and running of the hospital.
The monastery at Roncesvalles has always been of major importance to the Camino. It was once one of the wealthiest on the entire route and was famous for the treatment which pilgrims received here. A 12th century poem sings the praises of the monastery´s legendary hospitality:
The door lies open to all, to sick and strong,
Not only to Catholics but to pagans too
Jews, heretics,
idlers, vagabonds,
In short, to good and bad, sacred and profane.
Monastery records from as late as the 17th century speak
of up to 25,000 meals being served to hungry pilgrims in a year´s time,
with the number reaching as high as 30,000 in some years.
The numbers of pilgrims passing through Roncesvalles
currently rivals that of the pilgrimage´s original golden age.
By July 2011, a Holy Year, over 1000 pilgrims per day
received a Compostela,
and many passed through the village
on their way to Santiago de Compostela.
of up to 25,000 meals being served to hungry pilgrims in a year´s time,
with the number reaching as high as 30,000 in some years.
The numbers of pilgrims passing through Roncesvalles
currently rivals that of the pilgrimage´s original golden age.
By July 2011, a Holy Year, over 1000 pilgrims per day
received a Compostela,
and many passed through the village
on their way to Santiago de Compostela.
In 1132, the hospital was transferred to the spot where it stands today.
In 1984, the chapter passed to the control of the archbishop of the city.
In 1984, the chapter passed to the control of the archbishop of the city.
In the 15th century the hospital was temporarily closed.
Two fires in 1445 and 1468 caused great devastation,
but only briefly interrupted the work of the hospital.
In the early 17th century it was revitalized.
Two fires in 1445 and 1468 caused great devastation,
but only briefly interrupted the work of the hospital.
In the early 17th century it was revitalized.
The collegiate church was consecrated in 1219.
It is considered to be one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture in Spain.
Fires, a constant hazard in the medieval era
reduced much of the collegiate church to ashes.
It was lovingly and painstakingly restored in 1940.
It is considered to be one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture in Spain.
Fires, a constant hazard in the medieval era
reduced much of the collegiate church to ashes.
It was lovingly and painstakingly restored in 1940.
The Colegiata Real or Sala Capitular (chapter house),
has served pilgrims down through the centuries.
It is also known as La Preciosa (“the beautiful”).
It’s brilliantly sculptured 13th century mausoleum holds the tomb of
Sancho “el Fuerte” and his wife, Clemencia de Toulous.
The tomb sits under a gorgeous stained glass window
depicting his great victory, the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa.
has served pilgrims down through the centuries.
It is also known as La Preciosa (“the beautiful”).
It’s brilliantly sculptured 13th century mausoleum holds the tomb of
Sancho “el Fuerte” and his wife, Clemencia de Toulous.
depicting his great victory, the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa.
In 1600 the cloister was demolished by a severe fall of snow. The poor standard of the reconstruction offended many artistic and religious sensibilities.
The Capilla de Sancti Spiritus or Silo de Carlomagno (XII century)
is built over the graves of pilgrims who only made it this far.
The 13th century Capilla de Santiago is much admired
for its Romansque-Gothic architectural style.
It has a very unusual doorway,
and the bell is known for guiding pilgrims in from the Pyrenees snow.
From the Roncesvalles webpage:
Of all the pilgrimages to the Virgin of Roncesvalles, the one of Arce Valley and the one of Oroz- Betelu, which are done together, are the most constant in history. It has been celebrated since the 16th century, although it must have been celebrated even before then.
The pilgrims set off from 2 places: from Oroz Betelu at 6 am in the morning and from Arrieta at 7 am. The pilgrims from Azparren, Olaldea, Gorraiz and Artozqui go in the first procession, and those from Lusarreta, Saragüeta, Urdíroz, Uriz, Muniáin, Arrieta, Villanueva, Imizcoz, Espoz and Lacave go in the second.
Both reach the crossroad and continue,
each town singing its songs and praying the Rosary.
The parish crosses close each walk
and precede the mayor of the town,
who walks with his staff of office.
The pilgrims walk in two rows,
with the crosses on their backs
and holding them by the short side, with lifted arms.
When the Collegiate is sighted, and the Rosary is finished,
people start singing the litanies.
The "ora pro nobis" is something that has been repeated
during many centuries in the same place,
and it represents a clamour for forgiveness, happiness,
praise and compliments to the Mother.
The chapter welcomes the pilgrims, led by the prior,
and all of them enter the church to celebrate a large mass,
to confess, and offer their presents to the Virgin.
The meal begins after the mass, with the traditional "caldico" at the pilgrims' hostel.
In the towns, people eat "perretxicos"
(a kind of mushroom),
trout, lamb, and "cuajada,"
a type of curdled cheese
When the meal is over, and it is getting dark,in the Arce Valley and in Oroz Betelu
historic songs are sung,
whose melodies are used to conclude the day of celebration.
After this celebration, the pilgrims return home with renewed hopes.
is built over the graves of pilgrims who only made it this far.
The 13th century Capilla de Santiago is much admired
for its Romansque-Gothic architectural style.
It has a very unusual doorway,
and the bell is known for guiding pilgrims in from the Pyrenees snow.
 |
| Photo by Josef Oswald |
The Virgin of Roncesvalles celebrates her feast day
on the 8th of September, Mary's nativity.
But it is in Spring when most of the towns
and the valleys around make their pilgrimage
to the Virgin of the Pyrenees.
 |
| Santa María de Real de Orreaga Roncesvalles |
From the Roncesvalles webpage:
Of all the pilgrimages to the Virgin of Roncesvalles, the one of Arce Valley and the one of Oroz- Betelu, which are done together, are the most constant in history. It has been celebrated since the 16th century, although it must have been celebrated even before then.
The pilgrims set off from 2 places: from Oroz Betelu at 6 am in the morning and from Arrieta at 7 am. The pilgrims from Azparren, Olaldea, Gorraiz and Artozqui go in the first procession, and those from Lusarreta, Saragüeta, Urdíroz, Uriz, Muniáin, Arrieta, Villanueva, Imizcoz, Espoz and Lacave go in the second.
Both reach the crossroad and continue,
each town singing its songs and praying the Rosary.
The parish crosses close each walk
and precede the mayor of the town,
who walks with his staff of office.
The pilgrims walk in two rows,
with the crosses on their backs
and holding them by the short side, with lifted arms.
When the Collegiate is sighted, and the Rosary is finished,
people start singing the litanies.
The "ora pro nobis" is something that has been repeated
during many centuries in the same place,
and it represents a clamour for forgiveness, happiness,
praise and compliments to the Mother.
The chapter welcomes the pilgrims, led by the prior,
and all of them enter the church to celebrate a large mass,
to confess, and offer their presents to the Virgin.
The prior from Roncesvalles takes the mayor' s staffs of office to offer them to the Virgin. |
The meal begins after the mass, with the traditional "caldico" at the pilgrims' hostel.
In the towns, people eat "perretxicos"
(a kind of mushroom),
trout, lamb, and "cuajada,"
a type of curdled cheese
 |
| Cuajada |
When the meal is over, and it is getting dark,
historic songs are sung,
whose melodies are used to conclude the day of celebration.
After this celebration, the pilgrims return home with renewed hopes.
 |
| Female Penitents |
 |
| Male Penitents |
In the best seller "Iberia," James Michener speaks of going on a picnic in Roncesvalles.
“The success of our picnic was assured by the fine tins Potter had brought and by the rare site I had selected. But insurance was taken out when Bob Daley, fearing that we didn’t have enough food, stopped in the town of Espinal, and while we studied the fine modernistic church quite radical in its architecture, he bought an extra loaf of bread and in doing so acquired a culinary masterpiece; it was round and flat, about the size of a large chair cushion and not more than 2 inches thick, so that it was practically all crust and better crust was never baked.”
He continues, “I had in mind a spot well beyond the monastery of Roncesvalles. A spot where a small stream came out of a woods, but …she caught sight of a meadow far below the road where 7 rivulets converged, their banks lined with moss-covered trees. We lugged out tins and bottles and Bob Daley’s marvelous chunk of bread down to the 7 streams and there in a glade so quiet, so softly green that it seemed as if defeated knights might have slept in it the evening before, we spread our blankets and prepared the meal.”
 |
| Pan Gallego |
The albergue at Roncesvalles was HUGE
when I visited in 2006
There were over 100 beds in one giant hall.
It was quite an experience
and for a first time pilgrim,
it was very exciting!
So many people with the same goal
crammed into such a small space;
some too excited to sleep,
others too exhausted to speak.
Be sure and make your dinner reservations when you arrive in Roncesvalles.
The local trout is not to be missed!
It is usually served with pasta or ensalada, bread, and wine.
After you shower and do your laundry,
spend some time taking care of your feet.
A nice foot rub will make them happy.
And don't jump out of bed too fast in the morning,
for they may not hold you
without a little encouragement.
It has been a long hard climb
and they have the right to be stiff and sore.
from here forward, the Way is easier.
Get a good night's sleep, if you can...
if the roncadores don't keep you awake.
Hopefully you packed some earplugs
and a sleep mask to protect you
from the snoring and from those who rise before dawn
and flash you with their headlamps
in their race for a bed.
That's it until next village.
Ultreya!
("Ultreya" is a Spanish word, derived from the original Latin, meaning Onward!
It is used by pilgrims to greet and to encourage one another along the way.)
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