Here I go...

Finding magic under the stars of the Camino Santiago de Compostela

Sunday, June 17, 2012

To Arzua

Today looks like a beautiful day for walking. Good thing because its a long stage - over 29 kilometers according to Brierley. But our walkers should be in shape for it by now.  

Here is the view out my window at Pension Palas:

Two more days to Santiago! 

The walk to Arzua began sunny and warm. We stopped in St. Xulian for breakfast at this beautiful Albergue set in an old casa rural. I'd love to stay here sometime!

The owner had walked the Camino 4 times and really understands what the pilgrim needs. The rooms have 6 beds. Beds are 10 euros They do have 2 privates and they do take reservations.

 Just a short walk out of St Xulian is this interesting house with a cat window where you can get Massage and Reiki.

Just a short walk out of St Xulian is this interesting house with a cat window where you can get Massage and Reiki.

Much of today's walk was on easy dirt track through woodlands.

We had heard of an interesting phallus carving on one of the small churches along the way, so we kept our eyes peeled. We found it a corbel of the church at Leboreiro (Field of Hares) on the way to Melide. I'm amazed it has survived. I wonder what it signifies... Fertility?

We stopped for pulpo and bacalau in Meride. The lady cooking was moving more than the octopus! Lunch was great! I recommend you share a SMALL plate of pulpo and have your own bowl of the best Caldo Gallego I have tasted in Spain!

My kids will know this kale potato soup as Querves.

There were other pulpo bars but this one is right on the Camino as you come into town and they actually have a hawker pulling people in.

 I think you might get better prices up the road but we were very happy with our lunch.

Soon, the rain began and got worse as the day went by.

Bob and Evette crossing one of the small streams on the trail. This was a really pretty section to walk today, even in the rain! The smell of eucalyptus was strong in the air and the frogs were singing up a storm!

The last 2 hours of our walk today, the skies broke open and it poured.

I shared a cab with two other walkers after going about 22 k but Joe wanted to finish the 30 kilometers.

Joe said it was raining so hard he had to hold the hood down on his Altus to keep the rain from blowing into his eyes so he could see the waymarkers.

He, Brenda, Mauve, Bob and Evette arrived looking like drowned pilgrims. But they were smiling. They DID it!


This lovely Pension Arcano has a beautiful terrace where we are drying out our clothes.

I'm not sure why...tomorrow's forecast is RAIN!

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