MCS and My Camino

I haven't posted much about MCS lately.

Although part of my healing process is NOT focusing on the MCS,

I don't want to lose track of the reason I do these trips on the Camino.

Life for many people with Multiple Chemical Sensitivities (MCS) can be nothing short of Hell until they find a safe place to live and become very aware of which substances trigger their reactions.

Once they know that their "brain fog," "emotional distress," "fibromyalgia," "rheumatism," or "mysterious migraines" are all symptoms of MCS, there is little that can be done to make life normal apart of staying away from the trigger substances (which you learn to identify over time), and chemical chelation or long-distance walking to chelate those substances.

After being diagnosed with Multiple Chemical Sensitivities, I was given two choices.

I could undergo chemical chelation, where they give you an intravenous chemical 

which causes your muscles, bones, and tissues to dump the toxins all at once.

Or I could do it more naturally, by long distance walking.

I chose long distance walking 

because research showed that chemical chelation 

led to damaged liver and kidneys 

more often than it helped.

* * * * *

What is MCS and how does it affect a person?

Well, pretend you're walking along a wooded hiking trail.

It's a beautiful day and you're looking at the trees and enjoying the sunshine.

You come around a sharp bend and suddenly, 

right in the middle of the trail,

is 

a HUGE RATTLESNAKE!

YOU ALMOST STEP ON IT!!!

This is what happens next:

1. Sequences of nerve cell firing occur and chemicals like adrenaline, noradrenaline, and cortisol are released into the bloodstream.

2. These patterns of nerve cell firing and chemical release cause your body to undergo a series of very dramatic changes:  

3. Respiratory rate increases

4. Your blood is shunted away from the digestive tract and directed into muscles and limbs

5. Your pupils dilate

6. Your awareness intensifies.  Sight sharpens. Smells are much more discernible. Light becomes almost unbearable, as do loud noises.

7. Your impulses quicken.

8.  Your immune system mobilizes with increased activation.

9.  You become prepared - physically and psychologically - to either fight or escape.

10.  You begin to nervously scan and search the environment, looking for "the enemy."  

11. You  tend to perceive everything in your environment as a possible threat to our survival.  This fight or flight system bypasses our rational mind and moves us into "attack" mode. 

12.  Your fear is exaggerated.  Your thinking is distorted as you see everything through the filter of possible danger.

AND THEN YOU REALIZE 

THE 'SNAKE' 

WAS ONLY A STICK 

LAYING ACROSS THE TRAIL.

IT DOES NOT MATTER.

THE CHEMICALS AND HORMONES HAVE FLOODED YOUR BODY.

YOU ARE IN THE MIDDLE OF A FIGHT/FLIGHT REACTION.

There is a cumulative buildup of stress hormones in your body. 

If not properly metabolized, 

this stress leads to disorders of your autonomic nervous system 

(causing headache, irritable bowel, high blood pressure) 

and immune system

 (creating susceptibility to infection, chronic fatigue, depression, 

and autoimmune diseases such as rheumatoid arthritis, lupus, and allergies.)

* * * * 

What Comes Next...

For my body, the next four days are miserable. 

It's like a bomb went off next to me. 

My muscles ache, my head aches,

 I'm super sensitive to sound, smell, and light. 

Depending on the severity and cause of the exposure, 

I may be in bed for several days with these flu-like symptoms.

Long term affects include a life of total reclusiveness,

 out of fear of a reaction. 

You are afraid to go to the market. 

You cannot go to the movie theater. 

No more dinner dates. 

No family parties. 

Church is no longer possible, 

nor are dances.  

Why? 

Because the 'snakes' which cause the reaction 

(which we all agree is an amygdala response) 

are common everyday substances such as perfumes, 

colognes, scented detergents and fabric softeners, 

FEBREZE, scented lotions, scented candles, 

scented make-up, 

and the horror of horror, 

scented house sprays and plug-in fresheners.

And frankly,

it's impossible to avoid those

in public buildings.

When my specialist suggest long-distance walking 

to chelate the chemicals that are so bothersome to me, 

I looked far and wide for an appropriate trail. 

There was nothing in the United States 

that was safe enough for a woman walking alone. 

There was nothing in the United States

 that was well-enough supported for a sick woman walking alone.  

So, I continued to search, 

and eventually found the Camino Santiago.

After my first Camino, 

I felt better than I had felt in years.

This was great, 

but I couldn't afford to go back each year.

So I began trying to figure out how I could do it.

I was offered the opportunity to walk with a group of pilgrims, 

helping them along their way.

In exchange, 

the cost of my trip was covered.

This worked great, 

and I've continued to do it since.

I make it clear, 

this is not a tour.

I simply facilitate.

For the most part, 

you're on your own.

You are free to walk alone,

or with our group.

You have a clean bed booked in a private shared double room 

each night when you finish walking

so there's no need to rush for a bed.

You can walk some of the best sections of the route.

And I get to do my prescriptive walking.

So how about it?

Want to come along?

You'll feel so much better if you walk those toxins

out of your system!

This year's trips are full.

But you could join us in 2015

for a mixed group 

or a Crone's Camino.

More information on my website 

at www.anniecarvalho.weebly.com

Until then . . . 

Buen Camino!

Annie

From Barcelona!

We arrived in Barcelona exhausted after more than 24 hours in flight. Iberia Air was nice enough. We paid an extra $35 for bulkhead seats so Joe could stretch out his legs. This, to me, is worth every cent. You must do it 30 days before your flight.

The food was ok. The only complaint we really had was that there was no audio so without movies to watch, it made for a longer trip.

For anyone flying into Barcelona, here is some good information.

A taxi from the airport into town will cost you around 50 Euros. OUCH!

Instead of a taxi, follow the signs to pick up baggage, then follow the signs for buses.
Go outside and pick up a bright blue Aero Bus that will take you into the center of town.
This bus cost 5,65 euros each - a great savings!
The first stop is Plaza Espana.
There is a little map above the door inside the bus so you can see where it goes.
Then they stop at another Plaza and a few other stops right in town.

From Plaza Espana, it is just a few steps to the Metro, which you can identify by the bright red triangular or oval signs. You can purchase tickets from machines down in the Metro basement. You can buy 1 ticket, 10 tickets, or day, week, month tickets.  You will insert your ticket into the turnstile, then retreive it as the gate opens.

Be VERY careful in the metro. Keep your hand on your wallet at all times. You may want to put a lock on your backpack until you get on the Camino to discourage busy pickpocket hands.  Even our Pension owner cautioned us about pickpockets and thieves in Barcelona.. so please be careful.

I booked Pension Peiro here in Barcelona. It was 45 Euros for a double private room. It is old and a bit rough around the edges, but the beds are clean. There is a sink and extra blankets in our room, as well as a nice balcony. We share a shower and toilet with 2 other rooms, but so far, I haven´t run into another person. The water is luciously hot!

The management is exceptionally kind here. They have an ordinador ...computer... that you can use for 1 euro for 20 minutes, but the desk clerk told me where there were two computer shops ....locutori... where I can use the computer for 1 euro for an entire hour, so here I am.

Also, I had to purchase bus tickets for the May group and he let me use his private computer, then he telephoned to make a correction for me when I booked two too many tickets. How nice was that¨. I can´t find the question mark on this keyboard.  haha

Let´s see.. what else... the weather is warm and sunny here, with just a few clouds in the sky, so I am going to assume it will be HOT by the time you walkers arrive end of May. I wouldn´t bring too many cold weather clothes at all.

We looked for a Chinese Store, which is like the Dollar Stores in the USA. There, we purchased a fork, a sharp knife, and a corkscrew each for 1 Euro, a change purse for 1,20 euros, and a pair of black Crocs for 4 euros.

I was able to get to the correos - post office - and recognized it by its bright yellow and blue sign. Here´s some good information. When you go into the post office, find a machine that spits out numbers. You will need to know if you are sending or receiving mail and push the appropriate button. Then hold on to your number until they call you.  I mailed a box with my tent, my blow up pad, tent stakes, and two guidebooks from Barcelona to Pamplona and it cost about 8 euros. Not bad and better than lugging it all the way to Pamplona.

Donar Kabobs were first on our menu - for 3 euros each, they are a great dinner and we look for them whenever we are in Spain. While walking around today I saw food of every kind from Patatas Bravas for 1 Euro to Platos del Dia anywhere from 6,50 Euros up to 12 Euros, so it´s easy to find inexpensive food here.

Breakfast and lunch were purchased at one of the many supermercados. We found a baguette about 2 feet long for 85 cents, olives were still 45 cents for a generous bagful, tuna was 1.50 or so for 3 cans with pull tabs. Each can is enough for one serving or one sandwich. We also bought tinto wine in the box for 1.10 euros and orange juice for 1 euro per quart box. I bought 4 yogurts for 2 euros.

Add oranges, apples, and bananas and we were stuffed. Oh yes, and we bought a bagged salad for 1,50 euros and a bottle of dressing for 1 euro so for 2,50 euros we had a HUGE salad with our meal.  The fruit markets are everywhere here, and the fruit is beautiful and inexpensive. Anyone who is vegetarian will do fine in Barcelona!

We couldn not find Fels Naptha for washing our clothes, but I did find some Cocoanut Soap in a bar that is used for baby clothes. It made great suds and washed out easily, so we are happy with it. We hung our stretchy clotheslines out on the balcony and the clothes were nearly dry this morning.

Arriving in Madrid.

If your first stop is in Madrid, you will be in Terminal 1,2,3, or 4. When you first arrive, you will follow the herd to customs, where they do not check your luggage, but check only your passport. Then you go into another room where you again follow signs to the indoors trains that will take you to your next terminal. If you are catching a bus from the terminal, go to an information booth, where usually someone will speak English and help direct you to your bus stop.

If you arrive in Spain via Madrid, then take a connecting flight, you will have to go through security again. You will be asked to place everything in a box and go through a scanner. We opted out of the scary scanner and asked for a pat-down. It was the most exciting thing I´ve experienced in 10 years . hahaha!

I guess our walking sticks were suspicious because the TSA decided to open the box.


Well... I guess that´s all for now. I have photos I´ll post later but cannot do it from here. Tomorrow morning we take our bus to Toulouse and the next day to Moissac. I´ll post again as soon as I can find a computer.

Hasta luego!
Annie

The (Wrong) Train to Vigo: Annie's Big Adventure

Toward the end of September in 2009, 

while walking in Spain,

I caught a nasty flu. 

The weather in Santiago was cold and wet, 

and so I decided to take a short vacation in Rome, 

where the sun was shining and the weather was still warm.

Photo by Key to Italy

I found an inexpensive place to stay near Rome called Tiber Camping. 

The ad stated, 

"Situated just outside Prima Porta, 

on the banks of Rome's historic Tiber River, 

Camping Tiber combines all of the services today's traveller expects, 

with an excellent location, 

and a warm and friendly atmosphere. 

It's an unbeatable combination, 

that will ensure your stay in the Eternal city is a pleasant one" 

The photos looked inviting; full of sunshine! 

Just what the doctor ordered...

 A round-trip ticket to Rome was only 220 Euros. 

So I hopped on the plane and took off for Rome.

I knew the metro was fairly easy to navigate in Rome. The website gave great directions:

If you are in the city itself, and are looking to reach Camping Tiber, just hop on the underground metro and head toward the Flaminio metro stop, on the A Line.
Exit the stop itself, and change to the aboveground metro, F line, Ferrovia-Viterbo. Get off at Prima Porta which is where our bus picks up every half hour.

No problem!  I arrived just fine at a very nondescript metro stop and waited for the bus to pick me up. It was right on time. I had paid only 10 Euro per night for my stay and planned on being there a week while I recovered from my cold.  When we drove up, the place looked fairly deserted. It was the end of the season and they were getting ready to close for the winter. I was sad to find the pool was closed, and the restaurant staff was small. But the receptionist was nice and gave us a key to our cabin.

The cabins are small. Ours was just large enough to hold two beds. We chose to use the camp showers to save money.  We got into our room, checked the beds out of habit, and guess what!??

 

 BED BUGS!

Knowing this would not work for me, I tromped back to the receptionist, told her there were bedbugs in the cabin beds, and got the key to another cabin.

More bedbugs.

This time, she gave me a key that fit ALL the cabin doors (scary) and we checked cabins until we found one with no sign of the pesky critters.  Uneasily, we settled in and had no problems with bedbugs during our stay.

The campsite was really quite a nice place to stay. It was out of the busy city, yet only a short metro trip into Rome. The cost was not much, and the bus from Tiber Camping went regularly to the metro station to take and pick up passengers.  

Tiber Camping had laundry facilities and nice showers.

The food was good at the bar and restaurant and the staff was friendly.

Despite the bedbugs, I would stay there again.

Photo from Trip Advisor

We had a nice visit in Rome and I got a lot of rest.
On October 5, I planned to return to Santiago
and take a train to Moratiños to visit Rebecca
and to decide where I'd walk the last few weeks of my trip.

I finally felt like I was recovering from the flu.
Joe wanted to visit friends in the Netherlands,
but I wanted to walk some more,
so we parted company in Rome
and I flew back to Santiago.

Once there, I found the train from Santiago to Sahagun left at 9:15 am
and I bought a ticket and made plans to arrive at the station early.
I had 35 days left to walk,
and was thinking I'd like to try walking the Aragones Route.
But I wanted to talk to Rebecca before making that decision.
It was raining cats and dogs in Santiago,
and I was still tired from the flu,
but was excited to visit the Peaceable Kingdom.

It was a nice walk to the Santiago train station.
I arrived an hour early, had a coffee, and relaxed.
Plenty of time! Plenty of time!

My Spanish is good, but not perfect, so I asked the attendant,
"Where do I stand to catch the correct car to Sahagun?"

She pointed to a spot and said,
"Right there! If you stand there, the door will open
and you'll be in the correct car."

The train station in Santiago is not large and confusing,
like in some of the larger cities.
There are only a few tracks.
So happily, I planted myself on the spot and waited.
My train was to arrive at 9:15 am, remember?

At 9:13 am, a train rolled in, and a door opened in front of me.  

I stepped into the train and found a seat.

And the minute the train began to move, I was horrified!

We were going in the wrong direction!

"Where does this train go?"
I asked a passenger.

"To Vigo!" she replied.

Holy Moley!
I was on the wrong train!

I spoke to the conductor. 

No more stops until Vigo.

Not much could be done.

The only thing to do was sit back and enjoy it.

I chuckled.

My life is one big old adventure!

I arrived in Vigo and went to customer service.

The man working was very kind.

He laughed and told me, "You're not the only one!"

Apparently, they have at least one pilgrim each week
who makes this same mistake.

He wrote out a free ticket to Sahagun,
and told me to catch my train at 2:47 pm.

I had some time to waste,
so I went across the street to find a computer café
so I could let Rebecca know I´d be a day late.

Vigo is a great city and I'd like to go back sometime for a visit.

I found a computer, emailed Rebecca, then poked around town.

At 2:47 I caught the CORRECT train to Leon,
where I'd have to spend the night
and catch a morning train to Sahagun.

This new train did not go past Santiago,
but took another route through Galicia
which was simply spectacular!

I'd highly recommend taking the train to Vigo,
then BACK to Leon just for the scenic trip!
It was lovely.
It passed through Ourense and the beautiful Galician canyons and countryside.
It was lush, green, and so beautiful.
I'm really happy I made this mistake
and had the opportunity to take this train ride!

If you decide to do this, I will caution you. 

The train arrives in León at 9:45 pm, in the dark.

The stations are NOT announced and you cannot see the signs in the dark.

So you must pay attention to the stops and ask someone to help you.

I arrived in León at 10 pm and walked in the rain to the convent.
By the time I reached it, the doors were closed
and the windows were shuttered.
It was cold and dark and it was raining hard!

Oh no!

I rang the bell and waited.
I rang it again.
And again.
Finally, a very kind hospitalero,
after gently reminding me that the albergue closed at 22:30,
let me in.

He took my information,
stamped my credential and his wife showed me to my room.
I had slept here 5 weeks earlier in an empty room.
This time it was PACKED.

Photo by "Homers Travels"

I found squished bedbugs all over the bathroom floor!
It totally freaked me out,
but there was no place to go this late.
So I sprayed my bed and slept in my clothes,
not wantihg to chance bugs in my sleeping bag.
It was a little hot and stuffy
and another peregrina asked to have the window opened.
I was so happy!
"SURE!" I told her. 

The clean fresh air felt wonderful and I fell asleep in just a few minutes.

I woke up in the middle of the night, cold,
and used my ALTUS raincoat to keep off the chill.
It worked great!
I'll remember this; it will save taking one piece of clothing.
That raincoat was a great investment!
I bought mine from a peregrina on her way home for only 10 Euro.

I woke up at 6 am and had breakfast before the rush,
showered and was on the street by 7 am.
I grabbed a cup of coffee on the way to the train station
and caught the 9:27 to Sahagun.

Yesterday's mistake, although it made for a long day,
provided a wonderful "free" ride to Vigo.
It was absolutely stunning countryside!

My ticket from León to Sahagun cost 4.10 Euro ida solo (one way)
That and 1.10 Euro for the coffee put me at 5.20 Euro for the day.
Not bad.
I spent two lovely nights with Rebecca and Paddy at The Peaceable Kingdom.

Photo from the Web-my camera was broken

I tried to earn my keep by cleaning the art studio.
They were working on their bodega while I was there,
and I enjoyed long evening walks with Paddy.
They have a wonderful place there; be sure to stop if you can.  

After a short rest,
I was ready to continue to Jaca to begin walking the Aragones route.

But I will always be thankful that I took the wrong train 

and ended up in Vigo.

Sometimes, things happen for a reason.

One of the great lessons of the Camino

is to let go of the reins and just

ride the wave of life

and see where it takes you!

Oh yes, and remember,
the trains in Spain run ON TIME!

Buen Camino!

Annie

See my AnnieWalkersCamino website at 

www.anniecarvalho.weebly.com

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe

8 Days on the Via de la Plata - Day 7 - Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos

Another beautiful morning.
Our guidebook mentioned a dolmen, and we managed to find it,
despite it being sunken into the ground
and hidden behind a stand of trees.

Sunken Dolmen

Watch for this "hill" and trees

Then came more of the same landscape; dry, crispy, but pretty in its own way.

For those wanting to walk the Camino Frances, please don't be put off by the dry landscape. The terrain you're seeing in these photos on the Via de la Plata in the southern part of Spain is nothing like what you'll see in the north on the Frances. Coupled with the fact that we made a decision to walk during the dryest, hottest part of the year, the photos could frighten you away. Don't let them. I have been assured by other pilgrims that this walk is spectacular during the spring when the wildflowers are blooming and water is available.  And even in the blistering heat, it was beautiful country.

We continued on through the countryside, and came across several farms in ruins. Occasionally we'd find a horse trough and use the water to wash and cool down.

Finally, we reached what the guidebook described as a creek.
What we found was a dry creekbed full of rocks, with one or two small pools of hot water.
As I put my hankerchief in the water to wash the sweat from my face, I heard a voice in the distance.

"Peregrinos! Peregrinos!"

I looked up, and saw a man waving at us.

"Quieres agua frio?"

Another Camino Angel?

"Sí! SÍ!" we exclaimed in unison.

This lovely man who reminded me of Anthony Quinn walked down the road to meet us and escort us up a small hill to his home, where he invited us in.

His name was Anonio Duran. He was an artist; a woodcarver.
He lived in this tiny one-room house at the top of a hill.
 He kept his motorbike inside the house,
 and all along the windowsills were bottles of something red.

Jars of Gazpacho!

Antonio was so happy to have company! We sat and visited with him, cooling down with ice water from his ice chest. Then he filled our glasses with cold gazpacho... several times while we visited.  What a nice man!  He showed us an old newspaper clipping of him and his art. He told us a story about a pilgrim who had broken a leg in the dry creekbed the month before and how he'd taken him to the hospital in town. He was just a wonderful person and we were so grateful for the food and water!

After about 45 minutes, we thanked him and continued on toward Fuente de Cantos. He told us it was another 6 kilometers down the road. On the way down his drive, he picked two peaches from his struggling trees and put them in my hand. What a blessing! I look forward to visiting him on my continuation trek. Thank you, Antonio!

Soon, we could see Fuente de Cantos in the distance. Once there, we found the first open bar and went in for a cold beer. We sat and had a serious talk about the danger of walking the Via de la Plata in this 105 degree heat.  And there, over cold beer, we made a decision:

So we would not be continuing the VDLP this trip. Tomorrow we would take a bus to Leon and begin walking on the Camino Frances.  We found a Hostal Extremadura (with air conditioning) for 38 euro for a doble, had a great night's sleep, and met the bus the next morning.

It would be nice to pick up stages we had missed in 2006 due to shin splints.  Once we finished walking those stages, Joe wanted to spend time in the Netherlands and I wanted to walk the Aragones Route. Our return home wasn't until November, so we had plenty of time.

What I learned for myself from this experience was that unless you are an absolute glutton for punishment, the Via de la Plata should NOT be attempted in summer. It is dangerously hot and the water sources are unreliable. I know some experienced walkers have done it successfully. But for the average person, I'd say either choose a different route or walk in spring or fall.

I plan on returning to the VDLP either right before my June 2012 trek or after the Sept/Oct trek to finish the route. I will continue notes on this section once I've walked it.

Until next time,
Buen Camino!
Annie

See my AnnieWalkersCamino website at 

www.anniecarvalho.weebly.com

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe

Camping along the Camino Santiago de Compostela

When I consult with people planning to walk
the Camino Santiago de Compostela, 

one of the most common questions I get is,

"Where will I sleep?"

Each pilgrim has their own private needs, 

and depending on those, 

there is something for everyone.

The next few posts will be about some of the types of accommodation 

you might find along The Way.

Today we'll talk about Camping.

Camping out on the Camino takes a special type of person. 

There are some public campgrounds along The Way. 

Some people will simply sleep out  under the stars. 

Whether or not such "wild camping" is legal 

has been a topic of discussion on the forum

more than once. 

 According to Sylvia Nilsen:

 Wild camping is legal in Spain but with some restrictions. You are not allowed to camp in "urban" areas, these areas are prohibited for military or touristic reasons, or within a 1km of an official campsite. Basically this means you cannot camp on tourist beaches, but if you are sensible and "wild camp" nearby, having some sensitivity to the rules, you can camp almost anywhere in the countryside.  Avoid places called "Parques Naturales" because it is forbidden to place a tent there. There are few ‘wild’ camping places on the Camino Frances as the route passes through many private and state owned farms and vineyards."

  * * * 

I know of several pilgrims 

who have quietly set up their tent or sleeping bag 

next to fields or in forests along the Camino.

Camped out in front of church

Sometimes you are welcome to sleep in on the porches of churches

or other public buildings.

Joe and I slept under the stars at this finca on the Via de la Plata

 I have set up my tent in the courtyard of some albergues, 

such as the municipal at Zubiri 

or at this finca on the Via de la Plata.

 Some pilgrims, like the monk above, 

have found caves, but I'd be careful doing that!  

According to the legend, the monk San Virila 

fell slept in a cave for 300 years 

while listening a nightingale chanting.

When he woke up he thought only a few hours had passed. 

So beware of those magical caves!

Because of my multiple chemical sensitivities, 

I often carry a featherweight tent on the Camino 

so I can sleep out on those nights I cannot find fragrance-free lodging. 

Although I don't suggest every pilgrim

carry the extra weight of a tent,

if you have special needs, it could be a viable option.

Following is a link you might find helpful

if you are exploring the option of camping 

along the Camino Frances or any of the Spanish Caminos:

https://coolcamping.com/campsites/europe/spain

 Here is a list of campsites that was posted on the Camino Forum:

France

ST JEAN PIED DE PORT:

Camping de L’Arradoy: Tel: 05 59 37 11 75  

1/3 to 1/10: 25 Persons 2** 

Basic campsite. Pets allowed.

Camping Municipal:  Tel: 05 59 37 11 19) 

53 persons - 1* Municipal campsite 200m from the town gate.  

 Pets allowed.

You can also camp at Roncesvalles Albergue

Spain

You can camp at Roncesvalles Albergue


Aurizberri-Espinal  1/4 to 31/10
Urrobi Tel/fax 948 760 200 

http://www.campingurrobi.com/

400 persons: Adults 3.96 Euro  child - 3.19 Euro

Single etne - 3.96 Euro  Group Tent - 4.13 Euro

Pets allowed, restaurant, cafeteria, mini market

hot water shower, post, telephone.

Credit Cards accepted

Pamplona: All Year

Ezcaba - 8.5 k from Pamplona  Tel: 948 330 315

http://www.campingezcaba.com/

Adults– 3.60€ Child – 3.30€

Single tent - 3.60€  Group tent – 4.40€

Swimming pool, restaurant, mini market, hot showers telephone 

PUENTE LA REINA – GARES :  All Year 

Errota-El Molino:  Tel: 948 340 604 

www.campingelmolino.com
info@campingelmolino.com 

7km south at Mendigorria

Tent – 4.20€  1 500 persons 

Adults – 4.15€  Children – 3.30€Hot showers:  Internet:  Restaurant: Mini-market

Estella-Lizarra:  All year

Lizarra  Tel 948 551 733

https://www.eurocampings.co.uk/spain/navarre/navarre/estella-lizarra/campsite-lizarra-106662/
lizarrakampinga@navara.net

1000 persons Adults 3.80€ Children – 3.40€

Single tent - 3.80€  Family tent – 4.50€

Pets allowed, restaurant, cafeteria, mini market
hot water showers, post, telephone, credit cards accepted 

 

LOGROÑO:  9/4 to 30/9

La Playa: Tel/Fax: 941 252 253

www.campinglaplaya.com     
campinglogrono@terra.es 

248 persons:  Adults – 4.50€ Children – 4.00€
Single tent – 4.00€  Family tent – 5.00€
Pets allowed:  Cafeteria:  Hot water showers:
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

NAVARRETE: 8/1 to 9/12

Navarette: Tel: 941 440 169 Fax: 941 440 639

www.fer.es/campings  
campingnavarrete@fer.es

580 persons: Adults – 4.20€ Children – 3.85€
Single tent - 3.85€  Family tent – 4.20€

No pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria: 
Mini-market: Hot water showers:  Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

NAJERA :  1/4 to 10/9

El Ruedo: Tel: 941 360 102

154 persons:  Adults – 3.75€ Children – 3.50€
Single tent – 3.60€  Family tent – 3.75€  Pets allowed: 
Restaurant: Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers:
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA: Open all year

Camping Bánares:  Tel: 941 342 804  5km before Santo Domingo: Full facilities

BURGOS:  1/4 to 30/9

Fuentes Blanca: Tel/Fax: 947 486 016

1 100 persons:  Adults – 3.70€ Children – 2.60€
Single tent – 3.20€  Family tent – 3.80€  Pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers: 
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

CASTROJERÍZ : 1/5 - 31/5 y 1/9 – 30/9  (1/6 – 30/8)

Camino de Santiago: Tel: 947 377 255  Fax: 983 359 549

campingcastro@eresmas.com

150 persons:  Adults – 3.50€ Children – 2.50€ Single tent – 3.00€  Family tent – 4.00€  No pets allowed:  Cafeteria:  Hot water showers:  Post & Telephone: 
Credit cards accepted
 
CARRIÓN DE LOS CONDES: All year
Edén: Tel:979 881 152
289 persons: Adults – 2.40€  Children – 1.80€ 
Single tent – 2.10€  Family tent – 2.40€ .
Hot showers: Cafeteria: Shop:  
Telephone: Pets allowed.  No credit cards.

SAHAGÚN: All year

Municipal ‘Pedro Ponce’: Tel: 987 780 415 Fax: 987 781 112

ponce@campinglacota.com

1 100 persons:  Adults – 3.70€ Children – 2.60€
Single tent – 3.20€  Family tent – 3.80€ 
Pets allowed:  Post and telephone: Restaurant:
Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers:  Post &
Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

MANSILLA DE LAS MULAS :  29/6 to 1/9

Esla: Tel: 987 310 089  Fax: 987 311 810

https://www.vayacamping.net/poblacion/campings-en-mansilla-de-las-mulas

168 persons:  Adults – 3.70€ Children – 2.60€
Single tent – 3.20€  Family tent – 3.80€  
No pets allowed:  Hot showers:
Restaurant: Cafeteria:  No credit cards.

LEÓN : 1/6 to 25/9

Golpejar de la Sobarriba: Ciudad de León:
Tel: 987 269 086 Fax: 987 214 798

www.vivaleon.com/campingleon.htm 
camping-leon@yahoo.es 

4km from León:  141 persons: 
Adults – 3.20€ Children – 2.75€
Single tent – 3.50€  Family tent – 3.75€ 
No pets allowed:  Hot showers: Cafeteria:
Mini-market: Post and telephone:
No credit cards

VILLADANGOS DEL PARAMO:  14/4 to 28/9

Camino de Santiago: Tel: 987 680 253

494 persons:  Adults – 3.60€ Children – 2.50€
Single tent – 3.00€  Family tent – 3.60€ 
Pets allowed:  Post and telephone: Restaurant:
Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers: 
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted

HOSPITAL DE ORBIGO: 1/6 to Sept:

Don Suero De Quiñones:   Tel: 987361018

All facilities:  June to September. 

SANTA CATALINA DE SOMOZA:  15/3 to 15/10

At Santa Colomba de Somoza – bear left on Le142 before reaching Santa Catalina

http://www.telenorural.com/campings/el-carbayal.php
narciso@ganaderosteleno.org

240 persons:  Post and telephone: Restaurant:
Cafeteria:  Mini-market: Hot water showers:
Pets allowed: Post & Telephone: 
Credit cards accepted

RABANAL DEL CAMINO:

Wild camping possible in a field at Rabanal 

or the open area just beyond the village:
No facilities

O’CEBREIRO:

Wild camping is possible in field at the back of the village.

SARRIA:

Wild camping possible on the banks of the river –
access from Pont Riberio.

PORTOMARIN:

 Santa Maria – Turn right after crossing the bridge
and then right again by the panaderia. 
1km down the lane.

ARZUA: All year.

Don Manuel:  Turn left 500m from town centre –
behind the hotel. Bar, restaurant, pool.

SAN MARCOS:

Restaurant: Pool: Bar – no shop.

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA:

Monte do Gozo: 20/6 to 25/9

Tel: 981 558 942

1 227 persons:  Adults – 4.18€ Children – 3.46€
Single tent – 4.18€  Family tent – 7.00€ 
No pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria: 
Mini-market: Hot water showers:  Post &
Telephone:  Credit cards accepted.

As Cancelas: All year

408 persons:  Adults – 4.60€ Children – 3.50€
Single tent – 4.80€  Family tent – 4.80€ 
Pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria: 
Mini-market: Hot water showers: 
Post & Telephone:  Credit cards accepted.

Las Sirenas: All year

Tel: 981 898 722 Fax: 981 580 844

300 persons:  Adults – 3.50€ Children – 3.00€
Single tent – 3.50€  Family tent – 3.50€ 
Pets allowed:  Restaurant: Cafeteria: 
Mini-market: Hot water showers:  Post & Telephone:
Credit cards accepted.

* * * 

As you can see, there is a fee for camping in improved campgrounds. At times, the fee may be the same or even more than the price of a municipal albergue, so consider this if the reason you're camping is funds.

BE RESPONSIBLE PLEASE

If you decide to camp, please be a responsible pilgrim and leave each campsite looking like you were never there!  One of the scourges of the Camino is trash left by thoughtless pilgrims. This is especially a problem where they choose to toilet and leave their paper scattered along the trail. 

Potty trash left an San Anton - what a shame!

  Not only is this practice disgusting, 
it is unsanitary and a reflection on the sensitivity of visitors 
to this beautiful host country. 
So please, PLEASE... 
whether you are camping or just walking, 
carry a ziplock bag with you and carry your toilet tissue 
to the next town for disposal in a proper container. 
You might also consider carrying a washable hankerchief 
and simply washing it each day with your laundry items.

What type of tent to take?

Because I combine my tent camping with albergue stays, I carry as lightweight a tent as possible. This is the one I purchased. It is a screen tent, to protect me from mosquitos and flies, and if i rains, I can toss my poncho or a nysil tarp over the top.

Other options might include this Contrail tarp tent which comes with netting:

Try to choose a tent that is featherweight (every ounce counts!) 

and that you can put up using your trekking poles.

Sharing with a second person will make the carrying even easier,
as one person can carry the screen tent
and the other person can carry the tarp.

Of course, camping will mean you will have to carry other gear,
such as a sleeping pad, but those don't weigh too much.

Be sure to secure your pack while you are sleeping. 

I suggest you keep it inside the shelter. 

Crime is nearly nonexistent on the Camino

but no need in tempting fate!

How do I keep clean?

There are several options for bathing if you are camping.

Most public campgrounds will offer showers.

Sometimes they are included.

Sometimes there is a fee.

You can stop at a bar for coffee or breakfast

and use their bathroom.

Carry a washcloth and soap with you

and wash up quickly in the sink.

Just don't wash your feet or your children there!

:::grin::

Please BUY SOMETHING if you plan

on using someone's facilities.

And PLEASE clean up after yourself.

Leave the sink clean and dry.

You can also stop at most municipal albergues

and ask if you can use their showers (and kitchen!)

There may or may not be a fee.

Please be willing to pay.

The albergue has water bills just like you do at home.

Another option is to rent a room now and then,

and take a shower there.

In between times, you can clean up with wet-ones

or with a terrycloth you carry

and use when you find water.

NO CAMPFIRES!!!

One thing you may NOT do is build fires along the Camino.

If you haven't stopped for dinner along the way,

carry picnic items such as bread, cheese, meat, and wine,

maybe some fruit and tomatoes

so you can eat before you sleep.

You may absolutely not, under any circumstances

build a fire... EVER!!!

Sleeping out under the stars can be a memorable experience.

It can also be a nightmare if the weather takes a sudden change.

So have a back-up plan and a little cash in your pocket 

in case you decide you need a more sturdy and waterproof lodging.

You may find people will try to discourage you from camping.

I say, 

do as you will.

If your gut and your sense of adventure

is calling you sleep under the Milky Way,

then by all means,

follow your bliss.

Just be prepared

and flexible

in case the ever-changing Camino

has different plans for you!

Buen Camino!

Photo by Lisa Grainger

Love,

Annie

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino