Here I go...

One Adventure After Another!

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Catching Up on the News

I had a wonderful time camping with my family and friends last weekend. The campground was on the river and we spend much of Saturday fishing for crawdads.  The rocks were slippery and toward evening I fell and came down HARD on two rocks. Hit my butt first, then a pyramid shaped rock slammed into my ribs under my right arm. I haven't had the breath knocked out of me since 5th grade. It was NOT fun!

I now have a black bruise the size of a salad bowl on my butt cheek 
and 2 cracked ribs.
The ribs are the most painful. It's difficult to breathe and even more difficult to sleep. I spent  two nights at my ex's house because he has a recliner, which made it easier to get some rest. Last night I didn't sleep so well. Every time I moved, I'd hear and FEEL those ribs popping!

I'm really bummed but glad it wasn't worse.
Anyway, that's why I haven't been posting. 
It hurts to sit for long.

The crawdads were excellent, by the way. We had a feast! There was also corn, ribs, and fruit salad.  We ate until we couldn't eat another bite!
Tonight I'm visiting my good old friends out in Cottage Grove. I haven't seen them in a couple of years and it will be sweet to catch up on their news. Next week, I leave to house sit for my mother for a few weeks, then on to the desert for part of the winter. It gets too cold here in Oregon to camp.I'm in the process now of getting rid of more "stuff." It's amazing how much we accumulate!
I got a car top carrier yesterday for FREE!  
I love when that happens!  
It looks like the one in this photo, although it's a different brand.
Now my fiber and extra clothing will have a place to live while I'm camping. 

I guess that's it for now. 
I will try to continue my blog on the Camino in a day or two.

If you're in the path of Hurricane Irene
please hunker down and keep in touch.
You'll be in my prayers.

Until next time,
Love, 
Annie

***
Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 
but are not quite ready to go it alone, 
consider joining Annie
on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 
For more information see our website 
at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Doing Laundry On The Camino

When I was a girl, washing the clothes was considered women's work, and had been throughout much of history. Laundry day wasn't fun, but it also wasn't boring. It was often done alongside other women, and the work was made more pleasant by the sharing of stories and gossip.

In some places along the Camino, you can see large clothes washing troughs, usually under cover, where women still gather to wash their clothes.  These are made of stone or concrete and have inclined slabs around the rim for scrubbing.
 
 A girl could learn a lot by hanging out with the women on laundry day! When I had my first child, I lived in the Caribbean, away from my mother. I was 19 and had nobody to teach me about how to take care of a baby. I learned to hand wash diapers from the women who were working as maids in the trailer park where I lived. Wash day was an excellent time to make friends, hear stories, and to get advice. The women also (accurately) predicted the birth date of my son, which surprised me! I loved the look and scent of those sun-bleached diapers hanging from the clothesline, a rare sight in today's busy world.
One of the situations people who are planning to walk the Camino don't give a lot of thought to is how they will do their laundry. They just assume there will be laundromats all along the way. This is far from the reality.

You MAY be lucky enough to find a lavadora and secadora (washing machine and dryer), but for me, those were rare finds. I have heard that more albergues acquired them for Holy Year last year, but I have yet to see that for myself. Besides, machines were too expensive for my tight budget, so I was happy to do my laundry by hand.

There is no need to carry liquid or dry laundry detergent on the Camino. It is excess weight that is unnecessary. If you do find a machine and pay to do your laundry, the detergent is provided.
The washing machines in Spain are front-loaders. If you've never used a front loading machine, please read the instructions carefully and if you do not understand how to use the machine, please ask your hospitalero. They will be more than happy to assist you. It's good if you can share a machine between 2 or 3 pilgrims (or more) to save costs and energy by doing a full load.

Often, even if there is a lavadora, there will be no secadora (dryer), and you will need to hang out your clothes to dry. Sometimes there is a clothesline, but more often, you will find these really cool drying racks, loaded with pilgrim's wash.
You don't really need clothespins because you drape your clothes over the rack. But I usually carry 4 or 5. You may also want to carry some safety pins to pin your laundry to the rack on windy days. The safety pins are also great for pinning your laundry to your backpack on those days it hasn't dried by morning.
I like to carry a travel clothesline for those times the drying racks are full or you just prefer to hang your clothes on your bed or some other place. These elastic clotheslines are very nice, and don't require clothespins at all! You just slip the corner of your clothes through the elastic and it holds.

Steve Ricks' website and Amazon.com sell travel clotheslines. Here is a link to a tutorial for making your own out of rubber bands!

Sometimes you'll find a funny looking little can that looks like r2d2 sitting next to the washing machine.  This is a clothes SPINNER and it works like a centrifuge! You open the lid, put your wet clothes into it, and close the lid. It spins all the water out of your clothes and makes them almost dry. Taking advantage of this cool little machine can  cut your clothes drying time down to an hour or less.


INSTRUCTIONS for HAND WASHING CLOTHES:

Most of the time, you will be hand washing your clothes. Here are some simple instructions for people who've never done this.

When you arrive in Spain or France, find a market or hardware store and buy a bar of Fels Naptha soap.  This soap is made to work in cold water. Although it is now advertised in America as a pre-treatment for stains, it was originally was made as a hand-laundry bar.  You will find it all along the Camino and it is less expensive there than anyplace I've found in the USA.  The 5.5 oz. bar is a big 4.75" long. I paid less than 2 Euros for mine.


Fels Naptha is the consistency of any bar soap. You can easily slice it with a thin sharp blade.  Cut it into manageable pieces (thirds or fourths), and keep it in a plastic soap keeper or ziplock bag. One bar is plenty for 3 or 4 pilgrims, so find someone and share!

The clothes-washing stations on the Camino all look pretty similar. They are a stationary tub with faucets. There is almost always a built in clothes scrubber. Wash basins are often provided, and used not only for laundry, but for foot-soaking!
If there is no wash basin, and no stopper, use one of your socks to stop up the sink. I have never bothered carrying a stopper -- it's just extra weight.

The process for washing hasn't changed much in centuries. First, get the clothes wet. Toss in your dirty clothes into the tub (sometimes there is a wash basin!) and cover them with water. It will be cold water, so don't bother running it looking for it to turn hot!
 Take each piece out and rub the dirtiest spots with the end of your soap bar. Pay particular attention to collars and underarms. Then , rub soap over the entire piece. Turn the wet, soapy clothing over and over and rubbing the dirty portions against the ribbed sink. Lean into it and rub with an up and down motion, scrubbing the soap into the clothes.
Grab the piece in both hands and rub it together.
Sometimes a brush is provided. Rub soap onto the brush, and scrub the clothes with the soapy brush. This is especially good for washing dirty socks!
  When you're sure the clothes are clean, then rinse well with clear water.
 Wring as much water out of the clothing as possible. If there is a centrifuge available, use it!
Now hang them up and go find some dinner or take a siesta! By morning, they will be dry.
Photo by Carl Stonebreaker
There!
Wasn't that easy?

Women have done laundry by hand for centuries, and they're still doing it, all over the world.
Washing bats, called "beetles" or "battledores" are still used for moving cloth around as well as for beating the dirt out of it. Doing this with a piece of wood was called possing, and various styles of of possers developed as an improvement on plain tree branches. Squarish washing bats could double up as a scrub board. Simple wooden boards can be taken to the riverside, or rocks at the edge of the water may be used as scrubbing surfaces.
Beating laundry with a posser.
Washing laundry in the river is still done in many places
Originally, clothes were scrubbed on (or beat with) rocks. Then ridged rocks, and finally scrub boards were invented in the late 1700's.

Rolling the soapy clothes is a good technique for delicate items
There's that bar of Fels Naptha!

 
Young people today don't realize that there weren't many options for women's work up until as late as the 1970's. You could be a housewife, a secretary, or a nurse. If you had no money for education, a woman of any color, who otherwise had difficulty finding work, could always make a living as a washerwoman. This could be done at home, or as an employee for a washing company.
Women washing clothes at a well.
During the 30's crank wringers became common, saving a lot of time.
Washing clothes in Tibet
Native American woman washing clothes. Photo by Paul Natkin.
Women washing clothes in a stream in Japan.
Washing clothes in Cameroon.
Really dirty clothes, like men's work clothes or diapers were boiled.
People discovered using a plunger worked great for washing clothes. The first ones were made of metal.
Any plunger can be used. I have a small sink plunger that I use only for clothes washing. You just use it to agitate the clothes in the soapy water. It's handy for camping and for when the electricity goes out!
Plungers for clothes washing are still made.
Well... that's it. A little history of clothes washing, and some instructions for doing your own hand wash. Although I wouldn't want to do the entire family's wash "on my fingers," I do find something very satisfying in washing my clothes by hand on the Camino. 

It gives my brain time to rest, and the cold water does a great job of pulling stress and negative energy from my body, leaving my mind as fresh as my laundry!

So grab that bar of Fels Naptha and your walking clothes and get busy!
You'll be an expert by the time you reach Santiago,
I promise!

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago,
but are not quite ready to go it alone, 
consider joining AnnieWalkers USA on one of our small, 
affordable Camino walks. 
For more information see our website
at this link: 
AnnieWalkers Camino

However you decide to walk,
whether with us or on your own,
Have a Buen Camino!
Love,
Annie

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Lunch on the Camino Santiago

For me, el almuerzo (lunch) on the Camino
is almost always a picnic.
Simple and very inexpensive.
It's nice to know you'll have lunch
even if you can't find a bar on the road.
The following items will keep for days,
and are easy to carry in your backpack.
Pick and choose what suits your taste.

The first stop in any village for me is the Panaderia or Bakery.
The above sign is clear,
but remember, the panaderia is not always labeled.
Don't worry, though.
You´ll know it right away.
Follow your nose and eyes.
The wares are almost always displayed in the window.
Remember, they aren't always open all day.
When the bread is sold out,
the doors close to begin tomorrow's baking.

The bread in Spain is OOBER-delicious!
If you don't finish a loaf at lunch,
it makes a wonderful snack mid-meal.
You don't need a knife, just tear it off and dig in!
Because without preservatives it will harden quickly
once you break the crust,
you might keep it in that noisy plastic grocery sack you brought from home!
I love Spanish bread!
I cannot eat bread in the USA .
The wheat is sprayed with bromine
and the loaves are full of preservatives.

In Spain, the bread is baked fresh each day
from clean non-GMO wheat,
and I can eat all I want with no reaction.
Heaven!
You can often find organic bread.
The loaves will be labeled "panes ecológicos."
The label "ecológico" can be found on organic food of all types.

There many regional varieties of bread in Spain.
We'll cover specifics in another post.
But for today, just know you can go into the bakery
and point to whatever looks good.
I generally buy one or two small bollos (small round loafs),
Photo by Mese
 or one long loaf
for under 1 Euro.
A sidenote.
You will often see bags of bread
hanging on gates and doors as you walk through the villages.
More than once, I've watched in horror
as a pilgrim took what was thought of as a gift.
These are NOT FOR PILGRIMS!
People hang these little cloth bags out
and the baker delivers their daily bread into the bags.
PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH THEM.
 Buy your own!

Once you have bread,
keep your eyes open for a tienda.
Almost every village has a tiny market,
run out of someone's house.
There is no sign, no marking,
nothing to tell you what is going on in there,
except the occasional customer going in and out.
Look for a door which is open.
There will almost always be a fly curtain hanging in the doorway.
I can usually smell a tienda when passing,
like an old time grocery,
they just have a particular scent.

Once you establish it is a tienda,
and not someone's living room,
walk right in.
Inside, you'll find all sorts of goodies
to fill your mochila and your belly!

Following are some of the best backpacking foods I found along the Way.

We've already talked about eggs.
You can buy them by the each - and they're cheap.
If you're in an albergue with a kitchen,
you can boil them and cool them in the refrigerator,
and carry them with you next day.
Just be sure to label them in the fridge.
There is an unspoken rule that if it's in the fridge and unlabeled,
it's for any pilgrim who is hungry.
Most pilgrims will respect a sign that says,
'Please do not eat," or "Annie's eggs."

Next, I look for olives.
These are called aceitunas in Spain
and they come in cool little plastic bags.
They do not need to be refrigerated.
Some have pits and are labeled "con hueso" which means with pit/seed.
Others are labeled "sin hueso" which means without pit/seed.
 
Even others are stuffed 
with anything from garlic cloves to pimiento to anchovies.
They add a great deal of flavor, sliced or whole, to a bocadillo!
The next thing I look for is canned tuna.
Called "atun" in Spain, it comes in a nice little package of 3 small cans.
Each can is good for a sandwich large enough to feed 2 pilgrims
or one REALLY hungry pilgrim.
The package below tells me it is "en aceite de oliva" or "in olive oil."
You can also buy it in water,
but consider the olive oil for extra energy
when you're walking such distances.
Don't worry if you don't have a can opener.
They've made things easy for pilgrims along the Camino.
The tuna cans have a nice neat pop-top!
I don't bother mixing the tuna with anything.
I just spread chunks on the bread,
then pour a little of the oil over it and let the bread soak it up.
Wonderful!

You can also find these nice cans of filets.
I sometimes add roasted peppers to my sandwich.
These come canned and are VERY RICH so be careful. 
But the flavor is amazing!
I've lunched on many bocadillos with nothing but pimientos (peppers),
olives, and cheese.
A can of these will last me a couple of days.
I just keep them in a ziplock bag or in the olive bag.
These are a great option for vegetarian sandwiches too!
If I feel like having meat on my sandwich,
there are many options in the tienda or mercado.
You will always see savory hams and chorizos hanging.
This is generally sold by weight,
so if you aren't sure how much to ask for,
just show the shopkeeper with your fingers.
I'll talk about meat in a future post.
The cheese in Spain is fantastic!
The milk is clean and non-GMO.
I suggest you try all the local varieties and I'll post on them another day.
But for now, grab some Manchego, one of my favorites,
which you'll find all along the Camino.
This savory sheep-milk cheese is always a treat!
If you don't have a knife to slice your cheese and tomatoes,
pick one up in the ferreteria (hardware store) down the road
or borrow one from a fellow pilgrim.
Try some of the tomates!
They´re farm fresh,
have not been gassed
and will blow your mind and tastbuds!
Lettuce is difficult to carry,
so unless I´m making dinner at the albergue,
I tend to pass it by.
But it is good for making your own ensalada in the albergue!
Just be sure to wash it good.
This is farming country.

Crackers and Cheese
or Crackers and Fish
always make a good picnic lunch.
There are many varieties of canned seafoods available along the Way.

The canned anchovies are especially good on saltines.
These mejillones (mussels) are in a really nice pickled sauce
and are very good on crackers or bread!
Other great picnic foods you might find in the tienda include frutas of all types.
Vegetarians will do well in the picnic area.
You might see something exotic that you haven't seen before.
Why not give it a try?
Sometimes I've found my favorite imported fruits in Spain at a much better price.
For instance, I might pay over $6 for one cherimoya in the USA -
so it is a rare treat!
But on the Camino, I often found them for under 1 Euro!
If you've never eaten a cherimoya,
please try one.
Just cut it open, and eat the fruit off the skin.
To me they taste like a mild combination of banana and pineapple.
You'll also find a large assortment of dried fruits and nuts.
Of course, you'll find a better variety in the larger city markets,
but even the small tiendas will carry an assortment.
There will be raisins, dates, figs, apricots, almonds,
sunflower and pumpkin seeds, and many others.
Buy them by the inexpensive bag and make up your own trail mix!
Just remember to drink the water your body needs to rehydrate the fruit.

Speaking of markets, if you come across a street market, take a look!
There are all sorts of goodies to be found there!
If your Spanish isn't good, just point to what you want.
You can bet it will be affordable.

Top off your picnic lunch with a VERY inexpensive bottle of local wine.
When I say inexpensive, I mean anywhere from 1 Euro to 3 Euros.
These are not always labeled; sometimes they're locally bottled.
But one thing is certain, they're always delicious!
Half a bottle before bedtime will help you sleep
through the roncadores (snorers) in the albergue!
If you don't want to carry glass, you can purchase wine and juice in little boxes.
These do not need refrigeration until they've been opened.
I've often carried both around for days, even opened, with no problems.
But I'm adventurous!
This boxed wine sells for 0,71 Euro which is just over $1.
It is delicious!

If you'd rather have juice, you'll find it for under 1 Euro for a box.
It also comes in bottles in the cold section.
.Well, that's about it.
These have been some of my favorite lunch options.
On thing is certain,
you will not go hungry on the Camino.
Shopping can be a real adventure!
If you are willing to shop for yourself
and to try new things,
I promise you'll leave the Camino an expert
in the fine art of "the picnic!"

and

 Love,
Annie

Note:  If you would love to walk the Camino Santiago, 
but are not quite ready to go it alone, 
consider joining Annie
on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 
For more information see our website 
at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino