AnnieWalkers Camino Santiago Tour - FAQS

People are often curious about 
AnnieWalkersCamino trips.
Following are answers to some of the questions people most often ask. 


 

What do you mean by 'Best of Both'?
There are many different ways 
to undertake a pilgrimage to Santiago.  
You can go by car or other transport; 
you can walk parts of the way with a back-up vehicle 
and have your luggage transported between overnight stops. 
You can stay in 5 star hotels and Paradors, 
or you can stay in little inns or rural B&Bs. 
There is a chain of private pilgrim hostels along the routes 
and many traditional simple pilgrim shelters, 
some in ancient monasteries or converted churches.  


On our walk we will have the 'Best of Both' - 
some hotels and inns and some private rooms in a few pilgrim refuges
to give you a true sense of being a pilgrim.

Is this a religious tour?

No. 
Although this started essentially as a Catholic pilgrimage trail, 
the Camino has become a secular journey
and anyone can walk it -
Christians, Buddhists, agnostics and secular humanists. 
One can enjoy it just for the wonderful hike through stunning landscapes.  
The majority of the most important architectural monuments 
are churches, cathedrals and abbeys 
and we will do our best to visit these.  
Some offer the pilgrim a special blessings and others Gregorian Chants - 
all part of the rich tapestry of tradition 
that makes the Camino so special.
 

Which Camino do we walk?
We have chosen the most scenic sections 
of the Camino Frances, 
the Jacobean Route par excellence,
which is the one most people talk about, 
have written about 
and is the most historically supported of all the Camino Routes.  
 

Do I have to train for the walk?

You don’t have to be a super athlete
to walk the Camino 
but you should be fit enough to walk an average of 20km per day.  
If you are unable to walk up to 20km per day 
you will have to budget extra for bus and taxi transport.  
There are a few roller-coaster sections with many up and down hills. 
Start walking short distances at least three times a week,

building up to longer distances five times a week 
for a few months before you leave.  
You should be able to walk comfortably with a light backpack.  
Your group leader will always be in contact 
to make sure no-one is left behind.

What should I pack? 

A suggested packing list will be sent to you 
once you have registered with the tour. 

What is the accommodation like?

 Accommodation is in small 1 - 3 star hotels, inns,
pensiones, B&Bs, apartments and family owned rural houses.  
Ours is not a mega-bucks, 5-star luxury tour 
but we have sourced the best possible accommodation 
based on the location, the facilities they provide, 
comfort and hospitality.  And whats more, we have tried them all! 
What we have found is that it is better to stay in rustic, 
character-filled pensions in the old quarter of town rather
than in the more modern, smart establishments on the outskirts.  
Pensiones and hostales in Spain are spotlessly clean, 
are usually family owned and are, therefore, friendly places to stay.

Can I have a single room?

A limited number of single rooms can be booked, however, 
in a few small hamlets and villages this might mean 
being separated from the group for the night. 
The price of the walk is based on two people sharing a twin room.
A single supplement will be charged.

What about bathrooms?

The majority of rooms have en suite bathroom/showers. 
In one or two apartments, or family run B&Bs, bathrooms 
are shared by the group.

Do we stay in pilgrim refugios? 

As part of the 'Best of Both' you will spend a couple of nights 
in private pilgrim albergues but in private rooms (no dormitories).  
This will give you the opportunity to interact with other pilgrims. 

Casa Morgade

 Will I need a sleeping bag?

Those starting from St Jean will spend two nights
 in a hikers' Gitê which has basic rooms with shared bathrooms. 
Sleep liners or sleeping bags are required.  
Blankets and pillows are provided.  (The alternative is to stay
in a dormitory with bunk-beds for 18 pilgrims in an auberge, 
or in two-man tents in Orisson!) 

In the Hostal Jakue in Puente la Reina sleep liners are required 
or you can hire linen. Blankets and pillows are provided.

Where do we eat?

When staying in pilgrim refuges 
you can make a light breakfast in the refuge kitchen. 
 In some pensions breakfast is included.  
Pilgrims usually have a breakfast stop after an hour or so of walking. 
Lunch can be a picnic on the side of the road 
or in a café-bar or restaurant, 
and dinner could be a communal affair 
with pilgrims chipping in or a special pilgrim menu 
in a cafe-bar or restaurant.  
There are Menu del Peregrinos (pilgrims menus) offered 
all along the route.  
These usually consist of a three course meal for as little as €10 
which includes wine, water and bread.  
See my blog posts on food for more information.
The areas we walk through have wonderful regional dishes
that you should sample, 
especially the tapa - little snacks served in the bars.

What if I get blisters or can’t walk?

You have the option of taking a bus or hiring a taxi

to transport you and your pack between stages (at your own cost). 

If you need more than one day's rest 

you can use transport every day until you are able to start walking again.

Do we have to walk together?

You are free to walk at your own pace or with other group members. 

It is important that each member of the group 

have enough space to experience the spirituality of the landscape 

and this millennia-old pilgrimage trail. 

The AnnieWalkers group leader will also walk every day 

and will be in contact via mobile phone.  

You can walk with the leader if you choose. 

 If you prefer to sleep in, take more time in the villages and towns 

or wait for a museum or gallery to open, you are free to do so. 

We would like the the group to re-assemble

at the end of the day’s walking, 

once we have all checked into our accommodation, 

so that we can discuss the following day's itinerary.  

At the group meeting, usually around dinner, 

the leader will discuss the events of the day

and share details of the following day’s route,  

sights and accommodation.

What if I want to go off on my own to see a place 

or attraction off the Camino Route?

You will be free to travel wherever you wish 

and to leave the group as often as you wish. 

 If possible, the group leader will help you plan your side excursions.  

However, you will forfeit the accommodation and/or transport 

that has been booked for you on the Camino.

What do we do after we have checked in?

You can do your washing, 

have a siesta, sight-see or do some shopping.  

A list of interesting places to see is included in your daily itinerary.

What is the 'Credencial?'

The Credencial is a passport that allows you to stay 

in pilgrim accommodation on the Camino. 

We will help you obtain your Credencial 

when we arrive in St. Jean Pied du Port. 

You will receive a rubber stamp in the credencial at each overnight stop. 

You can also obtain stamps 

at café bars, churches, tourist offices and so forth.

When you get to Santiago,

you present the Credencial at the pilgrims office 

in order to qualify for the "Compostela."

What is the Compostela?

This is a certificate of completion 

based on a 14th century document in Latin 

which is given to pilgrims who walk the last 100 kilometers 

to Santiago and profess to have walked for a religious or spiritual reason.

If you do not profess to either, 

you will be given a different (but still very nice) certificate.

What happens when we get to Santiago?

It is great to walk into Santiago as a group

but if this is not possible we can all meet at a prearranged time 

for a photo-shoot.   

If we arrive before mid-day, 

we will visit the Cathedral to perform the ancient traditions

of hugging the saint, 

viewing his casket in the crypt below the altar 

and attending the beautiful pilgrims mass. 

If you are lucky you might see the Botafumeiro swing that day.  

We will go to the Pilgrims Office to collect the Compostela 

and then check into our accommodation.  

This is the last night that your guide will be with you 

in her official capacity.  

Of course, you could take her out for a drink, if you like, 

to celebrate your wonderful achievement!

The following day you will be free 

to wander around the city 

or you could take a bus or booked tour 

to Finisterre – The End of the World – 

a fitting end to your magical Camino - 

or you might continue with your holiday in Spain or Europe.

We hope you will join us

on the Camino Santiago de Compostela 

for The Best of Both!

Sincerely,

Annie

If you'd like to walk the Camino
but aren't quite ready to do it alone,
see my website:

Anniewalkers Camino

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe

Ten Etiquette Rules for Everyone (Pilgrims Included)!

I was cleaning out some old files today and ran across this list of 10 etiquette rules for children by Dr. M.E. Waters. I'm not sure where I got them, but they are quite good! I sure do remember being taught these rules -- today's children might be better off if someone took time to teach them also!

Although these rules apply to children,

they are a great reminder to the rest of us!

 

Do you follow them?

....****....

THE DO's

1. DO stay away from people who are troublemakers

2. DO say please, thank you, excuse me, good morning/evening, and I am sorry
3. DO put your hand over your mouth when you cough
4. DO be kind to other people
5. DO be polite on the telephone
6. DO care about your appearance; be neat and clean
7. DO show respect to parents, teachers, and elders
8. DO attend church or other spiritual practice
9. DO open the door and pull the chair out for others (Boys, please do this for girls and ladies)

10. DO take your hats off inside the building

THE DO NOT's

 
1. DO NOT chew gum in public
2. DO NOT talk with food in your mouth or throw it across the room
3. DO NOT interrupt when others are talking
4. DO NOT use curse words
5. DO NOT smoke or drink alcohol
6. DO NOT disrespect parents, teachers, or anyone
7. DO NOT be rude to other people
8. DO NOT act ugly in public
9. DO NOT put other people down or cruelly tease them
10. DO NOT tell lies about other people or tattle on them

* * * * *  

Photo by Colleen

Here are a few more rules specifically for Pilgrims:

Pilgrim DO's

1. DO secure private lodging if you are sick and contagious.

2. DO share food and drink with other pilgrims often

3. DO dress respectfully when you enter village churches

4. DO leave the bottom bunk for the elderly and disabled

5. DO be SILENT when in churches along the way

6. DO remember that food and lodging is a blessing, not a right.

7. DO clean up after yourself

8. DO take time to say "Buen Camino" and "Buenos Dias!"

9. DO buy something if you ask to use the toilet in a public shop

10. DO take time to really SEE, HEAR, and FEEL the spirit of the Camino 

Pilgrim DON'Ts

1. DO NOT throw toilet paper, water bottles, and trash along the trail. CARRY IT OUT!

2. DO NOT speak loudly and rudely when locals do not understand your language

3. DO NOT steal toilet paper or kitchen tools from the albergue

4. DO NOT fail to report bedbugs if you see or carry them

5. DO NOT take other people's food from the kitchen or fridge

6. DO NOT touch the fruit or vegetables in the tienda

7. DO NOT pick your blisters in public

8. DO NOT make any demands whatsoever

9. DO NOT convince yourself that "donative" means "FREE!"

10. DO NOT forget to show grace and gratitude to ALL along The Way.

If you have others, please add them as comments!

Buen Camino!

 

 

If you'd like to walk the Camino
but aren't quite ready to do it alone,
see my website:

Anniewalkers Camino

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe

Summertime Peaches

This week, I took a trip to a farm near one of the places I lived as a child.They have a wonderful fruit stand there and mom decided to buy a lug of peaches. She wanted to can them.

What is a lug? A lug is not quite a bushel but it is the size of which most produce is delivered to markets these days. They weigh about 31 to 33 pounds. A bushel weighs 33 to 38 pounds.

I have sweet memories of canning peaches in the late summer with my grandmother and aunts. In those days, we'd pick the peaches ourselves. I remember how the peach fuzz would fly, getting between my collar and waistband and making me itch like crazy!  

Butler's Orchard

Peach canning was a joint effort among friends and family back then. The men would set up all the ladders and help pick the peaches. The young children would run around under the trees, picking up the fruit that was dropped.

Photo courtesy of Life Magazine

 The women, who had started their work the day before by sorting and washing hundreds of jars, would pick peaches too. But once the fruit was in the baskets, the men's work would be done, and the women's work would REALLY begin as they peeled and sliced all those fresh peaches.  It was enjoyable work, however, because you got to sit around and visit and gossip with all your friends. Sharing of labor was common then, and I really miss those days!

A lot of families didn't have to worry about rations during World War II or during the Depression if they knew how to 'put up' their own food. This habit continued on and served us through the 50's right up until today!

I remember picking a fresh peach from the tree and biting into it. The sweet juice would run down my chin, and I'd wipe my face with a dusty arm. There's nothing quite as good as a juicy peach straight from the tree. The ones in the supermarkets have been picked green and gassed, and they taste nothing like what I recall as a child. 

These peaches were good, but not quite ripe enough, so we laid them out on the kitchen table, placing them upside down on a white tea towel, covered them, and gave them a day or two to "sugar up."

Then we got busy doing other things and forgot about them!

Oh NOOOOoooo!

By the time I remembered they were there, several had bruises or mold showing.
The others were really getting too ripe to can.
So we decided to dehydrate them.

Slipped skins make peeling a breeze!

The first thing we did was put on a big pot of water and bring it to a boil. The water was deep enough to cover a peach. Once the water boiled, we'd drop in a peach, wait about 30 seconds, then take it out and put it in a pan of cold water. This causes the skins to "slip" and instead of peeling, you can easily just use your fingers to pull off the peels. It saves an incredible amount of time.

The water gets peach fuzz and pieces in it, but it's fine.

Once the peaches were peeled, we sliced them and put them into a pan of water and lemon juice. This keeps them from turning brown.

Aren't they pretty?

After the slices been dipped in the lemon juice,
I put them on the drying trays of my Excalibur dehydrator. 

I love this dehydrator because it has a dial that allows you to set the temperature.
I never dehydrate fruits and vegetables above 115 degrees,
in order to preserve the enzymes.

The fruit took all night to dehydrate. This morning, it was dry, but flexible. It has retained its pretty color, due to the lemon juice bath. I use about 1/4 cup of lemon juice to a gallon of water. I used bottled lemon juice.

I will now bag and vacuum seal the fruit, once it has cooled.
Photos to follow.

The lug of peaches, which weighed about 32 pounds, cost us $20.
So we got these lovely peaches for less than $.65 per pound!
Even with the small amount of electricity it took to dehydrate the fruit,
this is an excellent price!
We had enough to dehydrate a full batch,
and had 2 one-gallon bags of sliced peaches left,
which I put into the freezer.

To freeze the peaches,
I lightly coated the slices with sugar,
then put them into one-gallon freezer bags.
These will be great on cereal, in pies,
or just to eat for breakfast or dessert.

We kept out 3 of the ripe peaches
mom made a small batch of fresh home made peach ice cream last night.

YUM!!! 

Fresh fruit is one of the things I've missed most about this Valley!

Instead of buying canned or frozen fruit this year,
consider canning, freezing, or dehydrating your own!
It's not difficult at all, and the end product is much healthier for you
than anything you'll buy at the market.
It's also much less expensive.
I figure these peaches cost less than half of store-bought.

It's also very satisfying to put up your own food.
You know exactly what's in the package.
And what a wonderful experience for children!

If you're short on cash,
consider going in with friends or family and buying in bulk.
You can save a lot of money by doing this
and it's so much nicer to do with a group.

Feel free to email me if you have questions.
I've got a lot of experience canning, freezing, and dehydrating
fruits, vegetables, and meat.

Try it!
You've got nothing to lose
and a lot to save!

Until then...

 Love,
Annie

Walk the Camino With Broken Ribs?

Remember I told you about breaking my ribs?

Two weeks ago today, I went camping with my friends and family. 

We had a great time and a lot of fun catching crawdads in the river! 

On the way up to the bank on the last day, I slipped and fell, 

hitting my ribcage on a pyramid shaped rock, 

knocking the breathe out of me.

I sat there in the cold shallow water for a few minutes, 

struggling to breathe, 

while people gathered around to help me up.  

Once up, I immediately went back to camp and covered the area with ice. 

I felt I had probably just bruised my ribs 

and they would be sore for a day or two.

When I got home, I called my doctor.

She asked me a million questions, 

had me palpate my ribs myself, 

then told me I'd cracked them.

Should I come in for an x-ray?

Nope.  

X-rays often have problems revealing fresh rib fractures, 

especially if the bone is merely cracked.

And besides, even if they are broken, there is nothing we can do.

Pain medicine and time...

Can you wrap them?

No, we no longer do that. 

It makes it too difficult to expand the ribcage 

and people tend to get pneumonia 

from not breathing deeply (because of the pain.)

Pain medicine and time...

But what if they're BROKEN!?

There's absolutely nothing we would do. 

You aren't spitting up blood, 

so you didn't pierce your lungs.

It's just going to take time...

Breathing deeply will help set them. 

And it sounds like you've separated the ribs from the chest wall.

Pain medicine and time...

But they feel SQUISHED where I hit!

Yup... they're cracked there.

They'll heal.

Pain medicine and time...

 Well, it's been two weeks.

They hurt as much today as they did two weeks ago.

When I'm standing straight up, they don't bother me,

but the minute I sit or lay down,

I yelp.

Ibuprofin decreases the pain,

but that stuff will kill your liver!

Besides, when I take pain meds, 

I don't feel the pain as sharply

and tend to do too much.

Then I feel worse the next day.

This sucks.

Getting out of bed in the morning is an interesting adventure!

Someone described it as 

"you SLITHER off the bed as best you can," 

and that is so true.

It takes a good 3 to 4 minutes

to work my body to the edge of the bed,

log roll my body,

then gingerly work my straight legs to the floor

so I can stand up without bending.

Getting into bed

is the same type of adventure.

Once I'm down flat, I'm ok.

But the extreme sharp pain
caused by rolling or moving

keeps me in a tense, flat position all night long,

and leaves me with a hell of a backache in the morning.

I honestly dread bedtime.
Too bad I'm not a horse.
They can sleep standing up.

Let me tell you something:

The only good cracked ribs 

are the ones my son Rob makes with barbecue sauce!

Ok... 

I'm done whining for the day...

But if you have it in you,

please send me some prayers or healing energy.
I need these ribs to HEAL!

I have a Camino to walk in the spring!

Oh, one last thing.

The Bible says Eve was created from a rib 

that God took out of Adam.

Now I know why

some men act like they're angry!

Probably still hurts like heck!
And the only advice is
"pain medicine and time."

Poor guys!

* * *

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

A Missing Pilgrim

I received this in my email today.
I'm hoping this pilgrim simply lost track of the time or was unable to find a computer.
He has not been heard from since August 27 and his family is concerned.
If you see him on the road, please tell him to contact his family immediately.
If you have information about him, please contact casaperegrina@yahoo.es

 

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

The Camino Santiago: A Typical Day

Before actually walking the Camino, 

some people have interesting ideas 

about living life as a pilgrim. 

 One of the most interesting was a woman 

who told me she planned on introducing herself

to the Basque witches when she arrived 

and fully expected to be invited 

to midnight rituals in secret caves along the Way. 

I'm pretty sure that didn't pan out for her 

- the "real" Basque witches most likely survive 

the same way their ancestors did, 

by NOT opening their arms to strangers.

 This woman's fantasy was so upset by reality 

that she returned to the United States 

after only several days on the Camino.

Although there are as many different ways 

to experience The Way as there are pilgrims, 

I thought it might be helpful to post 

about my own experience 

and share with you a typical day on the Camino for me. 

Your days can be good ones or bad ones, 

depending on YOUR attitude, 

and the first piece of advice I'll give you is

"Chill Out!" 

 This is going to be an experience unlike any other. 

Learn to bend like a sapling in a storm and you will survive. Have unrealistic expectations, 

and you will snap.

The Camino can be wonderful and it can be terrible. 

The more open minded and flexible you are, 

the less you are likely to suffer. 

You soon discover that some circumstances 

are not under your control. 

I would say that you are not the center of the Universe, 

but that isn't exactly true. 

 You ARE the center of YOUR universe 

and you can CHOOSE how you respond to challenges 

on the road. 

Difficult situations can become nightmares 

or they can become wonderful life-changing lessons. 

It all depends on your response;

in that you always have a choice.

We have to begin somewhere, 

so let's begin at about 5 a.m.

You have slept in a very crowded albergue.

It was difficult to fall sleep 

because the place is packed 

and the air is thick and stuffy.

 About midnight, you opened the window 

beside your bunk bed to get some fresh air,

but the person in the top bunk promptly closed it. 

You quietly opened it again, 

only to have her sit up, 

give a HUFF, 

and slam it closed! 

You decided not to argue, 

and eventually fell asleep among 

the snoring, farting, and whispering peregrinos. 

And now, in the darkest dark, 

what should be the quietest quiet of the morning, 

you are rudely awakened by the rustling of those 

horrid plastic grocery sacks!

 Squinting your eyes open, 

you try to see where the noise is coming from 

and you're suddenly blinded by someone's headlamp - 

You wonder what in the world is happening, 
then you realize, 

it is morning and several pilgrims 

are joining in the daily "race for a bed!"

Some folks find it impossible to leave 

their Type A personalities at home!

Why can't let their guard down 

and trust the Camino to provide?

They live in fear - 

"Where will I sleep? 

What if there are no beds at the next place?"

 To assure themselves, 

they awaken at god-awful early times 

and roust everyone else with their readyings.

You turn over, put your pillow over your head, 

adjust your earplugs, 

and do your best to get another 2 hours of precious sleep. 

But the rustling bags, the loud whispering, 

the clicking of poles on the floor continues, 

and after about an hour, 

you give up along with almost everyone else 

and join the crowd as they hurry to get on the road.

If you are lucky, 

you have stayed in a place that refuses 

to unlock the doors until 7 am. 

They do exist, but they are few and far between.

Last night, after your shower, 

you put on today's walking clothes.

You slept in them, 

and so this morning you only have to stuff 

your sleeping bag into your pack to be ready. 

A quick look around to be sure you aren't leaving anything 

and you are out the door.

There was no breakfast here today. 
But you remember you have some "Marias"
in your backpack.
There is a fig tree in the yard with a sign
"Gratis" and so you pick two
and enjoy a small breakfast of 
figs and cookies.

Sometimes the albergue will offer you breakfast. 

This usually consists of bread 

donated by a local bakery, 

packets of butter and jam, and coffee. 

Sometimes there will be cereal or fruit, but not often. 

Spanish bread is lovely. 

Baked fresh each day, it contains no preservatives, 

so it may be a bit tough if old. 

But it's tasty and the only thing you're likely to get to eat 

for a few hours, so you accept it 

and express your thanks to the hospitalero 

and the Camino, remembering, 

"A Pilgrim Is Grateful."

You step out into the dawn and begin to walk. 

One foot in front of the other...

 You may walk alone or you may begin in a group. 

The people in the group will come and go 

as the day progresses. 

You may walk fast or slow, 

and as others pass you, 

they will greet you with "Buen Camino!"  

You quickly learn this phrase and begin to offer it 

to others you meet along the road. 

You are reminded what it's like 

to have people look at you when they speak to you. 

It's refreshing to see people interacting 

face to face instead of online. 

This human connection touches you 

and heals you in ways you can't explain.

This morning's quest is to find a bar 

where you can have a "real" cup of coffee 

or hot chocolate or zumo (juice). 

It's usually found within an hour or two 

of leaving the albergue.

You began this morning wearing layers against the cold. 

After about 1/2 hour of walking, 

no matter the weather, 

you find yourself peeling layers off. 

The morning air is fresh and clean. 

You can smell the hay and the cows. 

The sun rises higher and you begin to sweat. 

You listen to the birds and the quiet of the countryside. 

You feel alive for the first time in a long time.

You continue to walk... 

one foot in front of the other...

alone for a couple of kilometers. 

Then a pilgrim passes you. 

Another steps up beside you and walks with you for a while,

then turns off to rest under the shade of an oak tree.

One foot in front of the other... 

over a bridge...

through vineyards... 

along the banks of a canal. 

You wonder at the wildlife. 

You see nesting birds, butterflies, grasshoppers, frogs. 

You walk a long time on a hot, dusty track. 

A car passes you. 

The person inside honks and waves. 

"Buen Camino!" they shout!

You wave back, happy to be acknowledged. 

One foot in front of the other... 

onto some old roman road. 

Walls on each side of you make the path shady. 

Ivy clings to giant ancient trees. 

You pass a bici-grino fixing a tire. 

"Buen Camino!" 

Your stomach growls - it must be lunch time.

 You walk around a bend and there is a bar! 

It is OPEN! 

The tables and chairs outside 

are filled with hungry pilgrims. 

Backpacks and walking sticks are leaned against the building.

People are going in and out. 

You take off your pack and leave it outside. 

The first time or two you did this, it worried you, 

but you now realize that nobody wants your pack 

and it's o.k. to leave it for a few minutes. 

The bar owner doesn't want it inside 

because too many pilgrims don't pay attention. 

They turn around and knock things off counters 

with their big packs. 

They also carry bedbugs and dirt inside the establishment. 

It's understandable that the packs and walking sticks 

are required to be left outdoors. 

You get into line and order your coffee. 

You use Spanish to order. 

It's becoming more and more comfortable every day to speak Spanish. The people here do not speak English. 

A frustrated American speaks his order 

in S-L-O-W, LOUD English. 

The bartender scowls and shakes his head. 

He doesn't understand. 

Speaking loud slow English won't get you far 

in this country, 

but an honest attempt to speak the national language will. 

You step up and help the pilgrim order. 

He does not thank you. 

You silently bless him anyway. 

While you're at it, you silently bless the bar owner, 

who was happy to serve you 

but cranky with the other pilgrim. 

It doesn't matter. 

You choose to smile and be grateful 

for the food and drink and service. 

You see a stack of bocadillos on the counter 

and you order one for second breakfast. 

You laugh at the thought of second breakfast,

but the excessive walking makes you more hungry

than when you're at home.

You find a place to sit and enjoy your coffee 

and sandwich.

The tables are full, 

so you sit outdoors on the ground 

leaning against the building. 

It matters not where you sit; 

the food and steaming coffee lifts your spirits! 

You ask the other peregrinos; 

"Where did you begin today? 

How far will you go?"

You recognize someone you met 2 weeks ago 

in another town.

"Hey! How ARE you!? 

So nice to see you again!"

You hug like long lost friends!

Photo from Pilgrim Roads

 After you eat and drink, 

you pick up your pack and once again, 

you walk.

One foot in front of the other...

walking...

walking...

for another few hours.

You stop at a tienda in the village and buy food. 

Tuna, bread, tomatoes, and and apple. 

You see the local fountain and stop

to fill your water bottles with cold spring water. 

"The water in Spain is much cleaner than at home," 

you think to yourself.

You walk again... 

one foot in front of the other... 

up and hill and down, 

athrough herd of sheep. 

The shepherd's dogs eyeball you, 

wondering if you're a threat. 

You hold your walking stick tighter.

They decide you are not bothering them, 

and trot off into the dusty wake of 100 bawling sheep.

 You turn your face to the sun.

It feels so good, so warm.

You come into another small village.

The streets are narrow and pristine. 

You spot a house with a bright blue door. 

There are clean clothes hanging from the upper windows,

flapping like flags in the wind. 

The lower windows are filled with geranium planted pots; 

a study in reds, hot pinks, and greens. 

What wonderful houses the Spanish live in!

Watercolor by Joy Laking

 You walk out of this village and into the countryside. 

There are sunflower fields on each side of the dirt path. 

You are curious about the ancient irrigation systems.

Who made these?

How long have they been here?

In another village,
the church bell rings from the village behind you 

and you pass a group of local grandmothers 

waiting to attend a special Mass for a friend

who passed away yesterday.

 Each smiles at you and blesses you 

with a "Buen Camino!"

You grin back, and say "Thank you" 

in English.

You walk...

one foot in front of the other...

walking...

walking...

walking...

After an hour, 

one of your toes is hurting. 

Each step is becoming painful. 

You realize it is a hotspot - 

a red tender area where your shoe or sock is rubbing. 

You need to make a decision. 

You can continue and get a full blown blister, 

or you can stop and take care of this now. 

There is a horse trough next to the path,

and you stop. 

You sit on the ground 

and take off your shoes and socks. 

Your feet thank you! 

You briskly rub them all over, 

then plunge them into the ice cold water trough. 

It is shockingly cold, 

but it also feels so good! 

You soak your feet for 5 minutes, 

and then dry them off with your towel. 

You dig in your pack for the Compeed you bought last week. 

It came in many sizes and you bought one of each. 

There is one made just for toes! 

Some pilgrims pierce their blisters with needles,

but you don't want to chance infection,

and besides, it is not a full-blown blister yet.

You carefully cover the hot spot with Compeed. 

It will remain on your skin until it falls off. 

You put your socks and shoes back on and breathe a sigh. Oh, that is so much better!

And you begin walking again...

one foot in front of the other... 

walking... 

walking... 

walking...

Three pilgrims pass you. 

"Buen Camino!" you wave. 

They respond, "Buen Camino!" 

You pass a pilgrim on crutches.

She has one foot in a cast and is limping along.

"Are you ok?" you ask. 

Se nods and grins. 

You continue walking...

knowing each pilgrim must walk

their own Camino.

You can not take away her pain.

You can only pray for her and bless her.

Lunchtime comes and goes. 

You pass another bar. 

You have a picnic lunch in your pack, 

but decide to go inside instead. 

You order a big, cold cerveza con limon. 

It is so refreshing and comes with a small bowl of olives. 

You look at the menu and see they offer for lunch... BOCADILLOS!

You order and eat another bocadillo. 

Have you ever eaten so many sandwiches in your life?

It is good and gives you energy.  

It's filled with thin slices of local ham and cheese. 

Other pilgrims at a nearby table ask, 

"Where did you start today? 

How far will you walk?"  

These questions are beginning to form a song 

in your head.

You finish your lunch and ask to use the bathroom.

"Dónde está los servicios?"  

You are directed to a tiny closet sized room.

There is a hole in the ground. 

It is a squat toilet. 

Most places have what you would call "normal" toilets, 

but these squat toilets do exist along the Way. 

The toilet is not necessarily clean. 

It was most likely cleaned this morning, 

but hitting the hole takes practice, 

and some pilgrims have never seen such a toilet! 

You pull down your pants 

and place your feet on each side, 

squatting while trying to keep your clothes 

from touching anything.  

You wish you had used the toilet at the albergue 

this morning before you left. 

You finish and realize there is no toilet paper, 

not because it is not offered, 

but because previous pilgrims have stolen it. 

Why do they do that? 

Why not just buy their own? 

Luckily, you have a roll in your pack 

that you bought in St. Jean. 

At least there is a toilet here. 

You remind yourself again, 

"A Pilgrim is Grateful."  

You wash your hands, 

put your pack on your back,

and walk out the door. 

"Buen Camino!" says the bartender.

You again put one foot in front of the other...

walking.. 

walking.. 

walking... 

Up ahead, you see the weather is changing. 

You feel a cold wind beginning to blow.

Soon dark clouds roll in.

Then, suddenly it begins to rain! 

HARD!  

There is no shelter. 

You take off your pack, 

and dig into it for your Altus rain poncho. 

You put it on over your pack, 

pull the hood on and button it up. 

 The trail quickly turns to a muddy slush

and your shoes grow heavy

as the thick clay sticks to them,

making each step difficult.

And still, you put one foot in front of the other 

and walk....walk... walk...

You have been walking steadily for 6 hours now 

and you are beginning to feel tired.

You have passed many pilgrims 

and many pilgrims have passed you.

You have stopped for breakfast, 

to nurse your feet, 

and for lunch.

You are ready for this day of walking 

to be finished.

Soon, in the distance, you see a hill, 

and at the top, a village.

This is where you will sleep tonight, hopefully.

You wonder if you can make it. 

You really don't want to sleep in the weather tonight, 

so you push yourself to walk on and on, 

the village getting closer and closer,  

the hill feeling more steep with each step.

As you finally enter the village, 

you see the yellow arrows, 

and painted signs directing you to the albergue.

You have arrived around 3 pm after walking all day.

As you approach, you see a sign.

It says 

"Completo!"

They are full! 

Oh NO!

What will you do?

You plop down on a wall, 

drink water, 

rub your face, 

and think. 

Another pilgrim comes up to you and says,

"There is another albergue at the end of the village. 

Perhaps they'll have a bed for you."  

You thank him, 

then turn and begin walking up the next hilly street 

in the indicated direction, 

one heavy foot in front of the other...

You reach the albergue 

and find it is open. 

Halleluiah!

This albergue is "donativo" 

and offers dinner AND breakfast!

What a blessing!

You sign in and place 10 Euros in the box, 

understanding that this money will buy 

tomorrow's breakfast and dinner for tomorrow's pilgrims.

You are shown to your room. 

Sometimes you can choose your own bed, 

but in this case, one is assigned. 

You are lucky today; 

the sheets look CLEAN! 

There is even a pillow and a small blanket at the foot, 

carefully folded. 

These hospitaleros are good ones! 

They care!

You look for signs of bedbugs. 

Seeing none, 

you quickly mist your bed with mosquito spray. 

You wait 5 minutes. 

No bugs. 

Satisfied, you put your sleeping bag on the bed 

to hold your place.  

If you had found bugs, 

you would have asked for a refund and moved on.

Digging your clean clothes, towel, and bath soap 

out of your backpack, 

you also grab the zip lock bag you carry 

for your valuables, 

and then you head for the showers.

There is no line and the showers are not only clean, 

the water is HOT!

Maybe the first albergue being closed

was a blessing!

You are lucky again!

You undress, 

putting your money belt in the zip lock bag.

You take this INTO the shower with you.

You never leave this precious bundle anywhere ... 

NEVER!

It reminds me of a sign I saw that said, 

"In God we Trust; all others pay cash."

It's ok to trust people, 

but it also pays to be smart. 

If your cash and cards are stolen, 

it could mean the end of your journey.

It would be nice to think that no pilgrim would steal, 

but that's just not the case.

There's always that one... 

no need in tempting him or her.

You enjoy the 5 minute hot shower, 

then you get dressed, 

returning your money belt to your body.

It's damp, 

not from the shower, 

but from your sweaty walk.

It doesn't matter.

It is your lifeline.

You must always wear it next to your body.

You take your dirty clothes out to the washing station.

There are no machines.

Laundry here is done by hand.

You wash out your clothes 

and hang them on the provided racks.

Everyone uses the same racks.

You will gather your clothes before you sleep tonight 

or in the morning before you leave.

You check the "free" box 

to see if there's anything you might need.

You find a lightweight long-sleeved shirt 

that will be good sun protection.

You leave a can opener

and a sleeping mat that you've decided

you do not need.

Time for a siesta! 

This is a perfect time to catch an hour or two of sleep 

before dinner.  

It's also a good time to find a computer 

and email family at home or to visit with other pilgrims.

After a short rest, 

you explore the albergue 

and find this one has a well-stocked kitchen.

Asking the hospitalero, 

you discover there is a small tienda 

in the village and it is open.

You take a short walk and do some shopping, 

then return to the albergue to cook your own dinner. 

It will be pasta with a homemade tomato and onion sauce.

You will save the food you bought yesterday 

for tomorrow's lunch. 

You have heard there is no place to stop 

along tomorrow's etapa.

You begin cooking and soon, 

other pilgrims come along.

"I have a bottle of wine!"

"I have a loaf of bread!"

"I have some lettuce and tomatoes"

"I have a can of tuna and some olives!"

"I have apples and bananas!"

Your meager pasta dinner has become a pilgrim potluck !
The hospitalera arrives and reminds you
this albergue offers dinner!
You forgot!
Oh well, you laugh at each other,
set the table for a feast!

You all have a wonderful time 

sharing food, wine, and stories.

You head to your bed about 9 pm. 

On the way, you pick up your clothes, 

which are dry. 

The lights will go out automatically at 10 pm, 

but you are happy to get an extra hour of rest. 

There is a pilgrim speaking loudly on her cell phone.

She doesn't seem to care that her voice

is disturbing others.

A brave pilgrim asks her to please take it outside.

She is embarrassed, and complies.

You crawl into bed in the clothes you will wear tomorrow. 

You are ready to walk. 

All you have to do is get up, 

stuff your sleeping bag into your pack, 

and go.

As your head hits the bed, 

a million thoughts replay.

"Hopefully, those grocery sack pilgrims 

found a place at the OTHER albergue!"

"Wasn't it a wonderful dinner?"

"Weren't those people from Chile nice?"

"The blisters the fellow from Oregon had were horrible! 

Poor guy!"

"Tomorrow, I will walk an extra 5 kilometers..."

The next thing you know, 

you are blinded by the lights being flicked on!

It's 7 am!!! 

You actually slept in!

You look around, 

and most of the beds are empty.

Wow!

Awesome!

Ok... time to get moving...

You are the last person to get up.

Breakfast is still on the table, 

and there is more than enough food!

"Take some with you," the hospitalera offers! 

And so you do. 

You stuff some bread, butter, jam, and fruit 

into your backpack.

It will make a nice snack for the trail. 

You drink an extra cup of coffee. 

Then you put your pack on your back.

You hear the bell tolling in the village.

As you walk out the front door into the morning air, 

a priest passes on his way to Mass. 

"Buen Camino!" he says 

as he blesses you in the air.

"Gracias!" you answer.

And again you walk...

putting one foot in front of the other....

and the whole thing starts all over again,

like a loop with no end.

For 6 wonderful weeks,

this is the simplicity of your life.

I hope you will enjoy your version.

 "Buen Camino!"

Annie

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino