8 Days on the Via de la Plata - Day 7 - Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos

Another beautiful morning.
Our guidebook mentioned a dolmen, and we managed to find it,
despite it being sunken into the ground
and hidden behind a stand of trees.

Sunken Dolmen

Watch for this "hill" and trees

Then came more of the same landscape; dry, crispy, but pretty in its own way.

For those wanting to walk the Camino Frances, please don't be put off by the dry landscape. The terrain you're seeing in these photos on the Via de la Plata in the southern part of Spain is nothing like what you'll see in the north on the Frances. Coupled with the fact that we made a decision to walk during the dryest, hottest part of the year, the photos could frighten you away. Don't let them. I have been assured by other pilgrims that this walk is spectacular during the spring when the wildflowers are blooming and water is available.  And even in the blistering heat, it was beautiful country.

We continued on through the countryside, and came across several farms in ruins. Occasionally we'd find a horse trough and use the water to wash and cool down.

Finally, we reached what the guidebook described as a creek.
What we found was a dry creekbed full of rocks, with one or two small pools of hot water.
As I put my hankerchief in the water to wash the sweat from my face, I heard a voice in the distance.

"Peregrinos! Peregrinos!"

I looked up, and saw a man waving at us.

"Quieres agua frio?"

Another Camino Angel?

"Sí! SÍ!" we exclaimed in unison.

This lovely man who reminded me of Anthony Quinn walked down the road to meet us and escort us up a small hill to his home, where he invited us in.

His name was Anonio Duran. He was an artist; a woodcarver.
He lived in this tiny one-room house at the top of a hill.
 He kept his motorbike inside the house,
 and all along the windowsills were bottles of something red.

Jars of Gazpacho!

Antonio was so happy to have company! We sat and visited with him, cooling down with ice water from his ice chest. Then he filled our glasses with cold gazpacho... several times while we visited.  What a nice man!  He showed us an old newspaper clipping of him and his art. He told us a story about a pilgrim who had broken a leg in the dry creekbed the month before and how he'd taken him to the hospital in town. He was just a wonderful person and we were so grateful for the food and water!

After about 45 minutes, we thanked him and continued on toward Fuente de Cantos. He told us it was another 6 kilometers down the road. On the way down his drive, he picked two peaches from his struggling trees and put them in my hand. What a blessing! I look forward to visiting him on my continuation trek. Thank you, Antonio!

Soon, we could see Fuente de Cantos in the distance. Once there, we found the first open bar and went in for a cold beer. We sat and had a serious talk about the danger of walking the Via de la Plata in this 105 degree heat.  And there, over cold beer, we made a decision:

So we would not be continuing the VDLP this trip. Tomorrow we would take a bus to Leon and begin walking on the Camino Frances.  We found a Hostal Extremadura (with air conditioning) for 38 euro for a doble, had a great night's sleep, and met the bus the next morning.

It would be nice to pick up stages we had missed in 2006 due to shin splints.  Once we finished walking those stages, Joe wanted to spend time in the Netherlands and I wanted to walk the Aragones Route. Our return home wasn't until November, so we had plenty of time.

What I learned for myself from this experience was that unless you are an absolute glutton for punishment, the Via de la Plata should NOT be attempted in summer. It is dangerously hot and the water sources are unreliable. I know some experienced walkers have done it successfully. But for the average person, I'd say either choose a different route or walk in spring or fall.

I plan on returning to the VDLP either right before my June 2012 trek or after the Sept/Oct trek to finish the route. I will continue notes on this section once I've walked it.

Until next time,
Buen Camino!
Annie

See my AnnieWalkersCamino website at 

Anniewalkers Camino

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe

8 Days on the Via de la Plata - DAY 6 - El Real de la Jara to Monesterio

August 28 Friday

We began, as usual, in the wee hours. 

The castle on the hill was such a beautigul sight,

with the light of the rising sun behind it. 

Soon, we could once again see the familiar landscape.

After a while, we came across this chapel,

lying in ruins.

What a shame.

It seemed like it may have been a lovely place

in the past.

I wish someone would take it over

and refurbish it.

It could be a lovely stop for pilgrims.

For me, this was another difficult day.

I'm just not made to walk in this heat, I guess.

My feet began hurting after about 5 hours,

and the last part of the journey was stop and start and stop and start.

The landscape this time of year is so barren,

I can't imagine why anyone would choose to walk it.

I definitely will return in the springtime,

when my friend, Lillian, promises cooler temperatures

and lots of beautiful wildflowers!

We arrived in Monesterio

7 hours later

to learn there was no longer an albergue here.

The Hostal Maya at the begininning of the twon

charged 40 Euro for a doble - 

out of our budget this trip -

so we continued up the hill to 

the Hostal Extremadura

and paid 15 Euro

for an airconditioned, ensuite room!

It was just fine!

Television, 2 beds, and air conditioning.

Oh yeah!

I went straight to bed for a siesta

while Joe did our laundry.

What a guy!

See my AnnieWalkersCamino website at 

www.anniewalkers.com

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe

When I woke up I went shopping

for some comfortable shoes

and found these blue croc knock-offs

for 3 Euro at a local "dollar store."

This Cafeteria DP, by the way, 

is an EXCELLENT place to eat!

Their pilgrim menu just kept coming!

First they brought a nice cold salad,

then a big bowl of Cuerves soup,

with bread, butter, and wine.

I was thinking, "Wow! That was a great meal" 

when the guy showed up with a huge plate

of steak and potatoes!

Kowabunga!

We finished off with dessert -

I had ice cream.

All for about 8 Euros.

It was fantastic!

We were so exhausted and hot,

we went to our room

and watched a weird Patrick Swayze movie

in Spanish.

We both slept hard and good.

Next morning, 

we explored Monesterio,

after deciding to make this a rest day.

We took breakfast at the hotel

for 2.20 Euro each.

Two café and two hefty slices of tostada

and we were ready to go!

We visited the Hermita

and the lady next door was kind enough

to unlock it and let us look around.

What a beautiful little church!

This is a lovely little town with beautiful buildings.

Storks were nesting above the belfry

Monesterio has a really nice Museu de Via de la Plata.

Be sure and stop for a visit!

After touristing about, 

we returned to our nice air conditioned room

and I took a REAL bath!

Granted, the tub was only big enough for one foot

but I managed to squeeze into it

and soak.

It was heavenly!

Dinner was at the hotel;

a pilgrim's meal for 7.50 Euro.

Pasta, clamari, salad, ice-cold melon and wine.

Perfecto!

It was then "early to bed"

for an early start in the cool morning air tomorrow.

8 Days on the Via de la Plata - DAY 5 - Almadén to El Real de la Jara

August 27 Thursday

Once again, we left town just as the sun began to rise. 

It was cool and the walking was lovely,

but once we got into the forest, it was very, very dark. 

I could hear sounds all around me, 

grunts in the dark, 

spooky sounds. 

What was watching me? 

I took out my camera and aimed into the blackness. 

A flash went off as I took the photo.

This is what my camera showed:

There they were, the ever-present pigs, 

foraging their acorn breakfast!  

I could see a light in a nearby farmhouse. 

The farmer must be having his coffee right now...

then I smelled it and wished I could join him. 

Instead, we continued walking in the darkness,

trying not to miss those yellow flechas!

After an hour or so, the sun rose above the trees, 

and we began, once again, to feel the heat. 

Oh, how I wished I had brought my camel-back bladder.  

We passed several herds of goat. 

They would stand up on their back legs 

to reach the tasty acorns and leaves. 

We found a goat's skull on the side of the road. 

I guess he forgot his camelback bladder too!

I just wished so hard for that camelback...

Then, 

as I wished,

I looked down 

and saw something laying there 

on the dusty road.

I bent down and picked it up,

and laughed out loud!

It was a bite-valve for a camel-back

and it looked brand spanking new!

I looked up and said, "Gosh God, thanks? 

That's not exactly what I meant. 

Do you have the rest of it up there?"  

I continued walking

chuckling at God every now and then. 

The sun rose higher, and so did the temperature.

I was really kicking myself now. 

I should have brought that camel-back bladder.

Walking the VDLP in August was just plain STOOPID!

Walking it without a camel-back.. well... duh!

I kept walking, trying not to kick myself too hard... thinking again,

"I REALLY wish I had my camelback..."

...then I looked down and...

I bend down, picked it up and looked up at the sky,

"You're kidding, right?"

I stuffed the brand new tubing into my pack and kept walking. 

The heat was incredible. 

I could see "water" up ahead on the road,

but as soon as I'd get there

the water would move ahead of me again.

I remembered this mirage

teasing me as a child.

Now here it was again,

teasing,

teasing...

Each breath felt like it was burning my lungs.  

Each step, painful, because my feet were swollen

from the intense heat.

I could hear that old song in my head,
the one by the Sons of the Pioneers,

"Keep a movin' Dan,

don't you listen to him Dan,

he's a devil not a man
and he spreads the burnin' sand 

with water.
Dan can't you see

that big green tree 

where the waters runnin' free
and it's waiting there for me 

and you.
Water, 

cool ...

clear...

water."

 We kept trudging along...

Soon we could see El Real de la Jara..

The albergue is to the right just as you come into town. 

But it was locked. 

There was a note on the door saying 

"Go to the piscina (swimming pool) for the key."

Oh my gosh...

I was so tired and so hot,

and now more walking...

I left Joe with our backpacks and washing our clothes out back.

My Spanish was better than his, so I would do better finding the key.

I walked al lthe way to the other end of town to find the pool. 

The man with the key wasn't there, 

but would arrive in 1/2 hour. 

So I found a bar, drank an ice cold beer, and waited.  

I finally secured the key. 

It was 8 Euro each to stay here and well worth it.

Walking back, refreshed from my beer, 

I decided it wasn't so bad being the one to go for the key.

Joe was happy to see me.

We unlocked the door and went into the cool darkness.

The albergue was so danged cute!  

It reminded me of a little hobbit house. 

The doors were so short and Joe is so tall, 

he had to duck to walk through them.

The heat outside was now almost unbearable.

Rebecca of Moratiños describes the afternoon heat in extremadura as

"falling like a curtain" and that was it exactly! 

I continued to lament leaving my camelback at home. 

As I walked into the cool little house, 

and my eyes adjusted to the light...

I saw a lovely room with a big dining table.

And there,

on that cabinet top in the back, 

next to those sunflowers on the right, 

was a sign saying "Free!"

I walked back and guess what was there?  

Yup.. you guessed it... 

a brand new camelback bladder! 

And the bitevalve and tubing I'd picked up along the way 

fit it perfectly!

Another Camino Miracle!

I was soooooooooooooooooooooooo happy,

I did a happy dance!

There was a nice fireplace in case pilgrims got cold.. 

well, we didn't need THAT 

but it would be nice in the Fall or Winter.

The kitchen was small, 

with a sink and microwave, 

but no stove and no utensils.

There were 4 glasses for drinking wine.

There were three rooms for sleeping.

Each with bunkbeds.

All in all, this was a sweet little place to stay. 

We got our showers and laid down for a siesta. 

About 4 pm, Piet and Gerrard from Holland rode in on their bicycles.  

 They were the only two pilgrims we saw that night.

This is a pretty little town overlooked by an important castle, 

constructed in the 14th century to defend the lands of Seville 

from the Portuguese and others.

There had been a festival the day before in El Real, 

and there were still remnants of floats and food carts in the town.

I honestly can't recall what or where we ate here. 

I'll have to check my notes and see if I have it written down,

but I suspect I was too hot and tired to write in my journal that night.

I did, 

however,

have my camelback water bladder 

for the next day...

and it would be full

of
cool,
clear,
water!