My Via de la Plata Guidebook

Last time I attempted to walk the Via de la Plata,

I felt the guidebook was too bulky,

and gave more information than I needed.
However, it was a good guide.

I left my copy in the convent albergue in Leon,

and have regretted it ever since.

This book is now out of print and extremely expensive,

although the author is working on putting it out again on Kindle.

The Cicero guide is pretty,
and another good guide,

but way too heavy for my taste.

In my attempt to make my pack lighter,

I've decided to make my own guidebook.

Many guidebooks just have more information than I need,

and weigh more than I'm willing to carry.

So... I made my own!

First, I went to the bookstore and bought a small "Moleskin" knock-off.

The Moleskin is a small journal that is the perfect size for the Camino.

It comes with lined paper, blank paper, graph paper, and even watercolor paper!

It has a nice elastic strap to keep it closed and in the back is a pocket where you can keep receipts, notes, or whatever.

Each year, I've purchased a moleskin to keep notes on my Camino.

It's been a good investment.

However, this year, the $12 price put me off.

I searched the bookstore, and found this little green notebook.

It has the same elastic strap, the same pocket in back, and the same sized lined pages.

Once I found the right notebook,

I began working to make it the perfect guidebook!

I went to the Eroski website and found the Via de La Plata and Camino Sanabres routes.

Eroski

Next, I printed out each stage.

Then, I cut out the map and list of albergues,

and pasted each to a page in my notebook.

They fit perfectly!

I left space in the beginning to put in flight and hotel information.

I also cut out emails confirming hostal reservations and pasted them into the book.

What I'm left with is a very small, lightweight guidebook

with just the information I need,

plus about 75 blank pages for my own notes and drawings.

The cost? 

$4.99

I'm happy.

Seats and a Bed at the Monastery

Today I spent some time trying to select my seats on my upcoming flight to Madrid.

Because of my MCS, I need to sit up close to the front 

and as far away from the middle of the perfumed crowd as possible. 

I often am able to get the bulkhead seats,

 but this time, they had already been booked.

I tried emailing US Airways.

I tried calling - no humans available.

I finally found a number for their "Preferred Dividend" program and called.

A human answered!

I told him my problem and he was very kind.

He helped me select seats that were not the best for my condition,

but were better than I would have been able to get on my own.

Looks like I'll be masking up for the flight unless someone declares a Fragrance Free Day!

I always have a lot of anxiety about the flight.

If there are a lot of people with heavy perfume,

I can be sick for 3-4 days afterwards, 

which is one reason I book a hotel for a few days after arrival.

One good thing is that this is an overnight flight from the East Coast,

so I will take a couple of Tylenol PMs and hopefully sleep through most of it.

I have booked lodging at the Hostal Buelta in Madrid.

I chose it because it was close to Atocha Train Station

and I'll be catching a train next day to Sevilla.

In Sevilla, I cancelled my room at Pension Vergara.
Instead, I've booked a room at
the Casa de Oración at Santa Rosalía Cathedral.

This place is run by the Poor Clare nuns of Sevilla
and I understand it to be

a silent retreat.
If not, it will at least be quieter than a room in town.

It also is less likely to be perfumed.

Also, I just like the idea of supporting the nuns
and their mission to the poor in Sevilla and in Africa.

The cost of the room for 3 nights is about 8 euros more
but I think it will be worth the extra cost.
 

The Monastery and Convent of Santa Rosalia is located on Cardenal Spinola Street, number 8, next to the Plaza de la Gavidia.

Founded in 1701 by the Capuchin nuns coming from Zaragoza, it was completed in 1724.  In 1761, a fire destroyed much of the building.  It took two years to rebuild.

The church has a single nave with a barrel vault. The altarpiece is the work of the Portuguese sculptor Cayetano De Acosta. The church also houses paintings attributed to Juan de Espinal. 

Those who stay here have the chance to experience a few days of silence and recollection in the House of Prayer. The House of Prayer is located in a separate area of ​​the closure.

In the chapel, I understand you can see Santa Rosalia sleeping.

The 18^th century building consists of a cloistered courtyard around which the different rooms are installed. In the common area there is a lounge (old Locutorio) equipped with TV, which is available to all visitors.

The Hospederia has 9 single, double and triple beds All are furnished, are ensuite, and have air conditioning. All rooms are cleaned daily with a change of sheets and towels if you require it.  There are five single rooms and four double bedrooms, each room has a bed, nightstand, wardrobe and seating areas, bathroom and independent. There are common areas like the living room, patio and roof, and ironing area on the upper floor.On the ground floor there is a kitchen with dishes, refrigerator and microwave to prepare meals.

Pilgrims of the Via de la Plata can stay at the monastery in a special area and common room with shared bathroom. For pilgrims, there is a dining room where you can have breakfast, and in the upper area there is a meeting and conference room and access to the choir loft of the church where you can attend the daily prayers.

You can book accommodation for 25 euros per night for a single room.

Pilgrim rooms can not be reserved and I believe the beds are 18 euros.
I will let you know.

Bookings can be made at:   casadeoracion.capuchinas @ gmail.com

Reception hours are from 9 to 13 and from 16 to 20.30 h.

You can NOT collect your key after hours. However, once you have the key, there is no curfew.

I am really looking forward to staying here!

I will report back as to cleanliness, comfort, and convenience.

I will spend 3 nights in Seville.

The Macabi Hiking Skirt

 

I'm very excited to have received and worn my new Macabi Skirt!

This skirt is absolutely awesome!

I can't say enough good things about it.

First of all, it comes in three lengths.

I'm 60 years old.

I'm not always comfortable in the mini-length hiking skirts

that I find at REI and other sporting stores.

Those are made for slender women or younger women.

I'm just not comfortable in them.

The Macabi can be purchased in three lengths.

All are below the knee.

I'm 5'3" and I chose the Short length.

It is perfect!

Which length you get depends on your height.

Here are some photos of Carol, who is 5'6" wearing short, medium, and long.

 

 On the other hand, Kristen is only 5'2" so the short and medium fit her like this:

 

There are so many things I love love love about this skirt.

First of all, it gives you privacy using the toilet along the trail.

No bare-bottoming it!

Just find your bush, squat, and do your business in privacy.

Second, it is sturdy.

The fabric is nylon, but it is very tough.

It will not snag and will take a beating.

Third, because it is like nylon, it dries in TWO HOURS or less!

This is a great thing for the Camino!

Next.. it can be made into pants, for scrambling over rocks, or if it's cold.

This is done by means of a lightweight strap and hook that hangs from the waist. You simply clip the hook onto the inside hem of the BACK of the skirt, and voila!

Next, it can be made into SHORTS if the weather is hot or if you need to wade.

This is done by means of heavy duty snaps on each side. 

You just life the side up and snap it and you have shorts!

You can also wear the skirt as a shorter skirt but just using the side snaps:

This skirt has awesome pockets!

They are very deep and roomy and they are self-draining, in case of rain.

And, in addition, in the right hand pocket is a secret zippered pocket where you can keep your cash. It's nice because there is a little loop you put the zipper pull through, and it's nearly impossible for a pickpocket to open.

Last of all, you have a skirt for dinners and for wearing into the Cathedrals, so you are appropriately dressed for church. I remember a time when women were not allowed into the churches in Spain and Portugal in pants, and many older people still find it offensive to show up in shorts or pants if you're female. This skirt allows you to be more culture-friendly and not have to carry extra gear.

I bought this skirt last week and wore it for 4 days.

It shed dirt and did not need laundering and probably would go more than a week on the Camino.  It was very comfortable. It has an elastic waist and a drawstring for when you lose that Camino weight.  I'm definitely taking this on the trail with me and I'll report back. But so far, I'm pretty happy!  

I can see me wearing this with wool leggings if it is cold or windy.

I can see me wearing it with just panties if it's hot.

It is not inexpensive, like any good gear. 

You get what you pay for. 

I paid $75.

If you are an XS or XL, you can sometimes get them for $50 so check the mark-down basket.

If you're not sure what size to get, do what I did.

Order two sizes.

I ordered the Medium and the Large.

The medium fit, so I sent the large back for a refund,

no problem.

Here is the link: Macabi skirt

Be sure to read all of the testimonials. 

That's what sold me.... that and owning my very own Macabi!

Buen Camino!

Another Pilgrim Rescued

This information has been supplied by Navarricano, who lives in Pamplona. He is a member of the Camino Santiago forum:

There has been another rescue in the Pyrenees. Thanks be to God, this woman survived her experience. This article appeared in this morning's print edition of the Diario de Navarra newspaper. The translation and emphases are mine:

Firefighters from Burguete rescued another pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago yesterday. (4 April). The pilgrim was a middle-aged American (U.S.) woman who had turned her ankle. It took firefighters two hours to transport the woman three kilometers along paths completely covered in snow. The woman and her son were walking the Camino, following the Route Napoleon over the mountain from St. Jean Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles; the Route Napoleon is snowed under at present.

Along the way, she sprained her ankle, and when she reached the shelter at Izandorre, radioed SOS Navarra for help. SOS Navarra, in turn, alerted the fire department in Burguete. This occurred at 4.30 in the afternoon. The firefighters reached the woman's location in 30 minutes, but transporting her to the paved highway, where they had left their vehicle, was quite a bit more complicated: by stretcher and at times walking with the support of the firefighters, it took the group two hours to cover the three kilometers distance.

* * * * *

The Route Napoleon is still covered in snow. It is still too risky to go that way. Yes, she twisted her ankle. Yes, some can justify this as an accident that could happen to anyone, even in summer too, etc. But folks, please... her rescue was complicated by the snow. Thank God she was able to get to the shelter, and thank God they got her off the mountain. but the weather here in Navarra has been cold and nasty for the past two days. More like January than April, and more snow is predicted for this weekend.

Go the Valcarlos route, wear reflective vests and stay on the pavement.

Here are a few more photos to give you an idea of just how much snow we're talking about. Most of these photos are by "javier" from the Camino Forum. These are all taken at Roncesvalles, where there are snow plows. THERE ARE NO SNOWPLOWS ON THE TRAIL!!

This is a cloister that is much higher than your head!

You cannot even see the doors or the signs above them!

This is why people can get lost.

This is a ROOF top of a 3 story building!

If you take the road, you're more likely to see THIS type of scenario in Patricia Herr's blog, "Girls on the Way."

She and her two young daughters took the road, stayed in Valcarlos, and continued on the next day. Be sure to look at days 2 and 3 for good photos of the difference in walking conditions that these taken in Roncesvalles.

Here is a link to their great blog!

GIRLS ON THE WAY

Via de la Plata Application for iPhone or iPad

A couple of weeks ago I purchased this cool application for my iPhone called Via de la Plata by Melanie Radzicki McManus.

I heard about the application from Melanie on the Camino pilgrim forum, and thought for $3.99 it was worth a try!

I purchased the iPhone version and I'm so happy with it that last night I bought the iPad version!  I will be using the iPhone version on my walk next month. But the iPad version is easier to read and study now because of the larger size. However, for a total of $8.00, buying both is much less expensive than purchasing a heavy guidebook to pack along.

Melanie has made a wonderful application, and the walking directions appear to be very clear and concise. There are many, many photos of the places you are passing. There are very good maps. And best of all, people using the application on the road can post comments about changes or items of interest.

About the only thing that would make this app better would be a list of albergues in each village. But seeing how that changes from year to year, I think the comment section is probably the best place for that.

So... if you're going to walk the Via de la Plata and you're looking for a guidebook... and if you plan on taking your smart phone anyway.. pick up this application.

It rocks!

Love,
Annie

****************
Here is a link:  VDLP Application

Shopping at the Goodwill

When you walk the Camino, you usually only take one change of clothes.

That means for 6 weeks, you are wearing an outfit, then washing it, then wearing it, then washing it, day after day after day. By the time you reach Santiago, not only do the clothes smell to high heaven, they are often worn out.

So it was I found myself shopping yesterday.

I need a few items for my upcoming walk on the Via de la Plata.

I need a couple of pair of hiking pants.

I need some long underwear.

And I need a new shirt.

I stopped by REI because they were having a huge sale.

But to my horror, the items I needed came to a grand total of over $300!!

So I thought I'd check out Goodwill.

The store in Portland has a huge Active Wear section and I've found some great deals there!  

And guess what?

I scored!

Mine are like these, only blue.

I was hoping to get a set of silk long johns because they're so lightweight.

But when I found a brand spanking new set of Patagonia Capilene long johns, 

I snapped them up!

I checked online and found both the top and bottoms selling for over $55 each.

Total paid for the pair?

$11

Hooray!

Then, I found a really nice pull over shirt in a pretty turquoise color.

Price at REI for the same REI brand shirt was $56.

I paid $2.99!

Lastly, I found a really nice lightweight black microfiber pullover for $6.99.

Price at REI was $59.

Now all I need are my pants and I'm set.

I love shopping Goodwill!

 Not only do I like saving cash,

I love the idea of recycling and not creating more waste

for the landfill.

Goodwill ROCKS!

Love,

Annie

 

 

RIP Gilbert Janeri

Gilbert Janeri, in a photo taken shortly before his departure to Spain

 The family of the Brazilian found dead last Saturday morning in Spain have decided to complete the Camino not finished by Gilbert Janeri, 43 years of age. According to Sonia Toledo (sister), Gilbert's body will be cremated in Brazil on March 30 and she, her husband, daughter, and son-in-law will depart by car to finish The Way for him.

Sonia said it was her brother's wish that if he could not survive the journey, his body be cremated and his ashes left at the Cruz de Ferro.

"We have decided to make the journey by car and get the stamps as we pass through the villages, as Gilbert wished," she said.

The Brazilian executive was found dead on Saturday morning by park rangers on one of the trails near the Camino de Santiago. According to the family, he was 700 meters away from the route. "We do not know if the snow hid the plates with arrows. Surely he was lost."

The last contact with the family of Gilbert was done by e-mail on March 6 in the city of Saint Jean Pied de Port, France. He had written that he was not sure if he would take the path through the Pyrenees or some other. It was snowing and there were very few pilgrims on the trail.

"He told us not to worry, that he would contact us to let us know he was safe," said his sister. "We spent a week without news, waiting, and nothing. We sent e-mail, and he did not answer. But we thought soon we would receive news. Many people are shocked."

Gilbert's body was found five hours walk from St. Jean. The Consulate of Brazil in Barcelona told the relatives that the executive may have died of a heart attack, but there is no confirmation yet.

Sonia believes this was the cause of the death of her brother.  Their father also died of a heart attack at age 46. According to the sister, Gilbert was a smoker and despite having been prepared to walk the Camino, the first section has very steep climbs and the deep snow may have made the trek more difficult.

The sister suggested that Gilbert felt he would not come back alive, and a weekend before he left, the family attended the film The Way, in which the main character travels to France to recover the body of his son, killed on the Camino de Santiago.

Gilbert worked at a Canadian logistics company in Brazil and eventually came to live in Canada, where he obtained citizenship.  

He leaves a son.

* * *

To be wrapped in the snowy wings of the Pyrenees is not such a bad way to go.

Many of us understand this burning desire you had to follow the call of the Camino. 

We are thankful you were doing something you loved.

May you rest in Peace, Gilbert.

We will remember you.

Love, 

Annie

A Busy Day Planning My Camino

Wow!

I'm doing a Happy Dance today!

I woke up and couldn't believe I had actually purchased a ticket yesterday!

I guess old age has made me fearless, 

because I really do NOT have the money for this trip. 

Luckily, one can walk in Spain almost cheaper than staying at home!

Today is a planning day. 

I have so much to do!

I got on the Godesalco website this morning 

and made a loose plan of my trip, 

based on some tips from my Camino friend, Laurie, 

who walked this route last year.

If you are planning a Camino, this is a great website. 

You can put in your beginning and ending places,

 and it will give you a list of towns, showing facilities that are available. 

Then you can pick which towns you will stop in and at the end, 

there are several options for printing,

 including an elevation profile of your walk.

Profile Example

There are several stages over 30 kilometers in the guidebooks,
and my old feet won't walk that far.
So I'm figuring out ways to break those stages in pieces.

My comfort limit is about 20-24 k per day,
which translates to 12-14 miles.
Luckily, most of the terrain on the first part of the VDLP is flat walking,
or gently rolling hills.
The rough stuff comes later in Galicia,
 after I've gotten into better shape.

Looks like it should take me around 40-45 days to complete the VDLP,
barring problems.

That leaves me another 30 days to play on the Camino Frances,
and to visit Little Fox House in Muxia. 

Praia do Lago, on the beach trail to The Little Fox House!

Today I have to order a new clothesline.
I lost mine on the last trip.
I love this one from the Rick Steves website.
 It's about $10 and works great without pins or pegs.
 It also is more sturdy than others I've used.

 

I'll spend one night in Madrid.

Then.. I'll take RENFRE or a bus to Seville.

 I haven't decided yet which way I'll go. 

I am 60 now and eligible for a nice little card 

that will give me 20-40% discounts on travel and hotel arrangements. 

So I'll pick that up in Madrid,

 then decide which way is the least expensive way to get to Seville, 

where I've made reservations for two nights at Pension Vergara.

This place looks a little cluttered, but fun! 

And it's right across the way from the Cathedral, 

so it will be very convenient.
Hopefully it won't be perfumed,
in which case I'll have to find other lodging.

Here is what the website says about this Pension:

Hostal-Pensión Vergara is a restored convent in the Santa Cruz district, 250 metres from Seville Cathedral. 
Set on a quiet pedestrian street, it offers free Wi-Fi and a 24-hour reception.
Air-conditioned rooms at the Vergara feature tiled floors and come with a safe and work desk. 
Set around a garden patio, all have shared bathroom facilities and some have a private balcony.
There are vending machines for drinks. 
Many shops, bars and restaurants can be found within a short walk of the Vergara. 
Luggage storage is offered and there is a tour desk. 
Public parking is available nearby for an extra charge.

I'm spending two days in Seville so I can take a day to visit Italica again.
These wonderful Roman ruins are fascinating and worth a few hours.
I think I'll do a blog on Italica later today if I have the time.

Right now, I must get dressed and get busy!  
I have to figure out what gear I'll need.
I'm considering leaving my down sleeping bag home
and making a microfleece sleep sheet.
I want my pack to be as light as possible.

Hoping to keep it simple,
Love,
Annie

Via de la Plata - Second Edition

Well, I did it!

I bought my ticket for Madrid today!

After two nights there to adjust to the time change, I'll take a train to Seville.

 

I will attempt to finish, or at least make a dent in, the Via de la Plata, picking up from Fuente de Cantos, where I was forced to stop due to heat and no water a few years ago.

I'm going to arrive in Seville on May 10 and stay two nights so I can visit Italica.

Then I'll find a bus to Fuente and begin walking on May 12, if all goes well.

I've got a great itinerary, thanks to one of my forum friends Laurie, and hope the weather will be sunny and warm, but not hot.

I'm excited!

More tomorrow.

:::doing a happy dance:::

I'm going to Spain!

Annie

A Pilgrim Has Died on the Camino

Photo by Sylvia Nilsen

While walking the Camino, you will on occasion pass a memorial or marker indicating a place where a pilgrim has lost his or her life. The feeling for me is a combination of sadness, curiosity and respect.

I feel sad for the family because maybe this made their terrible fear come true, fear that the Camino is not safe, that their loved one would come to harm. I feel sad that the pilgrim did not finish the journey. I wonder what their last thoughts were? I am curious about the details. How did they die? Was it a heart attack? A stroke? Were they alone or with friends? How old was this person? And then those feelings turn to a deep respect that this pilgrim died while doing something that was more important to them than the fear of death. . . that their love for this pilgrimage made their death meaningful. Wouldn't we all like to die doing something we love? I know I would.

And so, these were the same feelings I had when I heard about the 42 year old man whose body was found on the Camino this week between St. Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles. From what I've heard in the forums, he was within sight of refuge.  Here is the latest report, posted by Navarricano, who lives in Pamplona. This is a quick translation of the article which appeared in the Saturday edition of the Diario de Navarra:
 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

A Brazilian pilgrim was found dead in a small gorge near Mt. Ortzanzurieta (Roncesvalles). The body was discovered by the forest ranger responsible for the area. The place in which the body of the pilgrim was found indicates that he had lost his way, and that he had suffered a fall. His backpack was found some 70 meters above the spot where his body lay.

He was apparently traveling alone, and until Friday nobody sounded the alarm that he was missing. For this reason, despite the fact that all of his personal identity papers were found in his backpack, an autopsy is required to confirm that the information contained in the documents correspond to those of the body that was recovered. Until the autopsy is complete, the deceased appears to be G.C.J., a resident in Canada. The location of the body suggests that the pilgrim died several days ago and the body only discovered once the snow had begun to melt.

The ranger had gone to inspect the area following the thaw. The body was discovered a little before 11.00 a.m. He alerted SOS Navarra, who in turn alerted the Burguete fire department, a medical team, the Guardia Civil and a helicopter rescue squad.

Three firefighters set out from Burguete. A fourth firefighter set out from Valcarlos, where he was serving as a replacement during the winter. The former left their vehicle parked at the albergue in Roncesvalles, from where the path that leads to the gorge starts. From there they had to continue on foot. Equipped with skis and snowshoes to walk on the snow, they also carried with them the equipment normally required to respond to these types of emergencies: a stretcher, a backpack with a first-aid kit, and another with clothing.

Following the ranger's indications, the firefighters began their trek. The going was initially over flat terrain, but soon became an uphill climb. Access to the area where the body lay was complicated due not only to the snow, but also because as they drew nearer to the gorge, the path was slicked with deep mud and wet leaves that made their path even more slippery. The helicopter crew followed their progress from the air as they made their ascent.

Following an hours' trek, the firefighters reached the forest ranger and the body of the pilgrim, resting face down in the gorge. At this point the Guardia Civil verified the pilgrim's death and ordered the corpse be removed from the area. The body was carried to an area where it could be tied to the stretcher and lifted to the helicopter, which transported it to the Navarran Institute of Forensic Medicine.

The Guardia Civil is in charge of the proceedings. Following the autopsy and the confirmation of the victim's identity, the Canadian consulate will be contacted in order to initiate the victim's repatriation to Canada.

It is clear from the small map that appeared in the article showing where the body was discovered that the pilgrim, upon reaching the Lepoeder hill, became disoriented. Everything was covered in snow, he could not follow the markings easily, and he headed off in the wrong direction as a result, ending up on a very dangerous cliff, where he slipped and fell into the gorge.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Those of us who have walked this route know this area. It is steep and slippery any time of year, can be treacherous in the rain, and apparently deadly in the snow.

This is a reminder, people.

If you are planning a winter Camino, please pay attention to the advice from the local people, the hospitaleros, and the staff in St. Jean Pied de Port. These people understand the weather of their region, which can quickly change from sunshine to severe.  If they tell you to take the lower route along the road, please listen!

I'm not suggesting this poor man did not heed advice; perhaps nobody told him the dangers of crossing this upper route during winter. But the snow is extremely deep this year. The trail markers are not tall enough to be seen, and it can be very foggy in addition. This leads to a chance of becoming disoriented and stepping off onto what you believe is firm ground, but is in fact a snowbank hiding a cliff, which appears to be what happened here.

This was a young, healthy man.
I'm sad for his family.

Buen Camino, Peregrino.
May you rest in peace.

Photo by Iasramblings