MANTECA COLORÁ

One of my favorite breakfasts while in southern Spain 

was a mixture of lard, pork, garlic, and other spices, 

served in a tub, 

and spread on grilled toast.

Now that I'm on the Paleo Diet, 

this lusciousness is well within the range of "can haves" 

and so I decided to try to make it on my own.

There are many versions of this manteca.

This time, I decided to try making it with fresh pork loin.

I gathered my ingredients:

First, manteca. 

We call it "lard" and it is basically pork fat, 

rendered and cleaned and sold in blocks.

Next, I needed to cut up some pork loin.

Since I don't really want to eat a LOT of this,

I decided to go small.

I bought the meat at the local Carneceria.

I used 4 cloves of garlic. 

I love garlic!

Then

1 bay leaf

Oregano - about 1/2 teaspoon

Salt - mine is pink Himalayan

Paprika - not just plain paprika, but smoked

I chopped the garlic, then decided I needed MORE!

I melted a bit of the lard in the pan on low heat:

I added the pork and garlic

and began cooking it on low heat.

After it cooked a while,

I decided the chunks were too big

and so I used a sharp knife and cut them.

I added 1/4 cup of vinegar,

the oregano,

and the bay leaf.

Then I added about a cup of water

and simmered it

until the meat was tender.

Once the meat was done,

I added the paprika 

and the rest of the lard.

I added more water

and cooked it until the water was gone.

I had this nice covered glass dish to keep it in.

I let it cool a bit,

then poured it into the bowl.

I then covered it and put it in the refrigerator.

 It hasn't quite set up complete,

but I can tell it turned out perfect!

Oh my gosh!

It is delicious!

But now,

since I cannot eat bread,

I have to figure out what I'll spread it on.

Stay tuned!

If wheat isn't a problem for you,

you can toast some french or artisan bread

on the grill 

or on a skillet,

then spread this on as thick as you like it.

Dig deep into the bowl

for the tasty bits of meat.

Your taste buds are going to dance!

Buen Camino!

Annie

Some photos from the internet:

Tomas the Templar Needs Your Help

Before my first Camino, I did quite a bit of research, 

questioning people about which albergues to skip, 

and which not to miss.

Seems at the top of the list for a lot of people was Manjarin. 

Probably one of the most photographed albergues 

along the Camino,

I made it a point to stop there.

Which way are you going?

You arrive in Manjarin as you trudge up a winding hill.

If it's foggy or raining hard, you might miss it.

For this reason, Tomas and his volunteer hospitaleros 

ring a bell when the dogs announce 

a pilgrim is coming round the bend.

Follow the sound of the bell and you'll find

pot of hot water for tea and hot coffee awaiting

in a little oasis under a lovingly built shelter.

Here, you can sit and rest.

Get a stamp for your credential.

Have a cookie.

Buy one of the hand-made souvenirs.

Joe stamps his credential.

There are cats and dogs to greet you at Manjarin.

And if you are lucky, 

Tomas himself is standing at the entrance,

inviting you in.

Are you lost?

Tomas will help you.

Ask to have a photo taken,

and he's happy to do it,

unless he's running to buy more supplies.

In that case, you will have to wait!

Annie with Tomas in 2012

I guess one way to describe my initial thoughts about Manjarin

when I first saw it

was "culture shock."

Manjarin is quite rustic.

There is absolutely no running water.

The toilet was (at that time) an open pit toilet across the road.

It has since been improved, but is still an outhouse.

I was told to put my mochila and sleeping bag upstairs in the loft

I was shocked when I saw the sheets and blankets.

They were dusty and pretty well used.

But then, 

there is no water at Manjarin,

so the sheets can not be washed each night.

You are, 

after all,

a pilgrim.

And a pilgrim is grateful for any help they get.

The attic

"Ohhhhhhh!" I thought!

I really had to talk myself out of leaving.

I was a snobby pilgrim - that's for sure!

But I stayed…

and was glad I did.

Why?

I got the gift of an attitude adjustment at Manjarin.

The inside of Tomas' house is fascinating, 

friendly and inviting, 

with sausages hanging from the rafters 

and pretty altars stuck in corners.

We who were staying sat around for a couple of hours,

waiting for the line of pilgrims to thin.

Once it got dark, and Tomas felt no more pilgrims would arrive,

lamps were lit

and the table was set.

Before dinner, 

Tomas performed a short ritual saluting the 4 directions

with a sword and a prayer.

It was in Spanish and I didn't understand all that was said.

It was very solemn - not for show -

and you could see he really was serious

about what he was saying.

Then dinner.

We all sat down and were served a nice bowl of soup,

fresh bread,

and a filling pasta dish.

We chattered about how our feet hurt,

how difficult the walk had been,

where we were from,

how many kilometers we had walked.

Each person spoke a different language it seemed,

but we managed to communicate.

About 10 minutes into the meal,

a wild and barefoot young man walked in.

His feet were dirty and bleeding.

He was scraggly haired.

His clothes were simple, not technical.

He carried a very small pack.

We tried to speak to him but he refused to answer.

"Completo!" we said.

"No room, sorry!" we said.

He just smiled and motioned he was hungry.

Tomas got up from his meal,

and walked to him.

He put his arm around the boy,

and ushered him to the table, 

motioning for his volunteer to come and help.

A place was set for the boy.

He was given food and a glass of wine.

In Christ-like love,

Tomas became an example of the good shepherd.

His eyes shone with love and respect for this young man.

The boy's expression was one of thanks.

Tomas, in his years of experience,

had recognized that this young man was on 
a different sort of pilgrimage;

the boy had undertaken his Camino barefoot and in silence.

Some might say my comparison 
to the Good Shepherd 
is over the top.
But it was exactly 
what came to my mind
at the time.

Tomas showed him the gentle hospitality of a true Templar.

I felt ashamed for my judgmental attitude.

The rest of my meal was taken in silence.

Each year when I take a group on the Camino,

I try to stop by and leave a little donation at Manjarin,

because I really believe in the work Tomas, 

one of the last Templars, 

is doing.

I can't leave much,

and Tomas does not recognize me.

But that's ok.

I love him anyway.

Last week, Tomas Manjarin had to have emergency surgery .

He was admitted to a hospital in Leon for 6 hours.

They opened his chest , replaced two heart valves and put a pacemaker .

Thomas has left the hospital and is recovering very well .

Tomas is now in Molinaseca in a borrowed flat for 30 days, recovering.

Manjarin still being run by volunteers and friends , but the daily pace of pilgrims is still small during this time of year and is insufficient to meet all of Tomas' current needs.

Tomas' friends are asking for your help - from anyone who can and want to contribute any amount of cash. Even just one dollar. This will help cover Tomas' food and incidentals during his recovery. His medical has been paid. 

All of you that know Tomas know he does not need many things. He is a simple person and deserves this moment, this solidarity , this show of love.

Acacio & Orietta from the Albergue of the same name are asking for donations from anyone who is interested in helping.

Tomas is one of the last "Templars" on the Camino.

He helps pilgrims all the time.

It's time to return the favor.

***

If you'd like to help, you can donate via Paypal at this link:

http://www.peregrinando.org/donativos.asp

The system is easy and secure and any small amount you can donate will be helpful.

In addition, you might want to send a note to Acacio & Orietta on their Facebook page telling them how much you have sent.

Together we can do much for this sweet man who has helped so many.

I, for one, look forward to hearing the bell ring at Manjarin

and seeing Tomas waiting to greet the pilgrims again soon.

***

God Bless You, Tomas!

Thank you for the lesson of love you taught us.

May you grow healthy and strong 

so you can continue your important work!

Annie Santiago

Sunset at Manjarin

Caceres to Zamora

Well, we have pinned down our walking route for 2014.

We will fly into Madrid, then take a bus to Caceres.

The bus costs 25,15 euros and is an Avanza bus.

There is also the possibility of a train and using the Tarjeta Dorada, 

we might get as much as a 40% discount on our tickets.

If you are over 60, and plan any train travel in Spain,

the Tarjeta Dorada (Golden Ticket) is an excellent value for 5 euros.

On almost any day, it will give you a discount on your train travel,

and sometimes other places will honor it.

I was able to get quite a discount at the ruins in Merida when I showed the card.

You can purchase it directly from the window at the train stations.

Here is more information on the Tarjeta Dorada:

Tarjeta Dorada

In Caceres, we have booked rooms in Albergue las Veletas.

At 30 Euros per night for a double twin room, this is a good value.

I stayed here last year in a single and found it to be in an excellent location,

clean, and friendly.

From Caceres, our walking schedule looks as follows:

Cesar de Caceras 11km - Municipal Albergue - (18 places, Donativo)

Embalsa de Alcantara 20km - Albergue Turistico - (15 Euros each - reserved)

Grimaldo 19.5km - Municipal Albergue - (15 places, Donativo)

Gallisteo 19.5km - Municipal (12 places, 10 Euros)

Olivia de Plasencia 30 km - Albergue - (20 Euros each - reserved)

Aldanueva 23 km - Casa de mi Abuela (15 Euros each with breakfast - reserved)

La Calzada de Bejar 21.8 km - Albergue Alba y Sorraya ( 28 places - 10 Euros each - reserved)

Fuenteroble - Parroquiel 20.2 km (70 places - Donativo)

San Pedro de Rosados 28 km - Albergue El Milario (10 places, 10 Euros each)

Salamanca 24 km - Hotel Alda Plaza Mayor ($56.70 for 2 nights - reserved)

El Cubo - Albergue Torre de Sabre - reserved

Villanueva de Campean 13 km - Municipal (16 places, 6 Euros each)

Zamora 18 km - Municipal (36 places, Donativo)

From Zamora, we will but to Vitoria-Gastiez where we have booked spendy beds in the Albergue de la Catedral for 18 Euros each. I've stayed in this albergue before and despite the cost, it's a very nice little place. I'm happy to stay here again. 

From Vitoria, next day we will take a bus to Pamplona, where we will meet up with some of our walking group. The others arrive next day and on May 21, we taxi to St. Jean Pied de Port to begin our Camino Frances trek.

Beautiful Desert Skies

We arrived in Desert Hot Springs last Sunday after a short stop to visit my mother.

The weather last week was hot,

but this week we've had a few days of high wind and cold.

Despite that, 

we've managed to walk almost every day

in the desert behind the park.

Much of the day has been working alongside Joe

getting ready for our Camino in May.

I am not able to sit at the computer for hours,

and so he does much of the actual typing

while I dictate from the shadow!

Our plan this year is to fly into Madrid,

bus to Caceres,

and pick up walking where I left off last year.

We have managed to book lodging in nearly 

every place that allows reservations.

We will be available by Spanish phone by the end 

of the first week in May.

We should reach Pamplona a day ahead of our walking companions.

In the meantime, 

I'm really enjoying the beautiful desert skies.

Dawn is spectacular,

as is dusk.

And the stars… incredible.

My MCS does well here 

as long as I stay out of the buildings.

I'm looking forward to walking the Camino again.

Stay tuned...

Got My Ticket Today!

Well, today my new passport arrived and with that in hand,

 I bought my ticket to Madrid. 

And the price was fantastic!

I paid only $980 on United to fly round trip to Madrid.

Kowabunga!

So I'm a real girl.

Now, I have to decide on one of two routes to take before meeting up with the others in Pamplona on May 18/19:

The Ossau Route beginning in Laruns, France, and walking down through the Pyrenees into Jaca and onto the Camino Aragones, then directly into Pamplona.

OR…

Picking up the Via de la Plata in Caceres, where I left off last year and continuing on to either Salamanca or Zamora.

The VDLP route is about 100-150 euros less expensive, and I like the thought of continuing on and completing the route perhaps next year.

But that Ossau Route is spectacular!

From http://vppyr.free.fr/pages_transversales/ossau/ossau_etp04_gabas_sallent.php

Oh decisions, decisions…

Any feedback from prior pilgrims?

An Umbrella for the Camino

Here's a photo to show you my top loading pack.
Can you see the straps on the side?
That's where I stuck the umbrella

There is some discussion about umbrellas on the Camino today and my vote is YES! 

By all means, carry one!

Up until last year, I thought it was funny to see people with umbrellas on the Camino.

Then last year, on a very hot day, I bought one.

And now, I'm addicted.

It's one of my favorite pieces of Camino gear.

First of all, I bought a bright purple one last year, 

so the color was cheerful on dark rainy days.

Second, when it DID rain, I stayed absolutely dry.

Last, on hot days, I bet it was 20 degrees cooler under that umbrella.

The sun would be baking other pilgrims,

who would be sweating and sucking down water.

I would be walking under cool shade,

very comfortable.

I'll never go without one again.

I don't take my umbrella with me.

I will buy one in Spain.

I bought the last one for 8 euros.

And not a folding one.

Those will break in the wind.

Nope.. a sturdy regular old umbrella.

Stood up the entire route.

I left it in Santiago when I came home.

Didn't want to mess with checking it on the plane.

Walking the Madrid route, I had shade all the way.

This is how I store it when I am not using it.

I have a top loading pack, so I stuck the umbrella in the side straps on one side,

and my bread or walking sticks on the other side.

It was great.

I could just reach back when I needed it.

Another photo of my backpack.
See where I have my walking stick in this photo?
That's where I put my umbrella.

So.. think about it.

You don't have to decide until you reach Pamplona.

There will be plenty of places to pick up an umbrella there.

Buen Camino!

PS: In Spain it is called a "paraguas"
para-aguas = for rain
as opposed to a
parasol
para-sol = for sun

I love Spanish!

Shoes for Camino 2014!

Yesterday, I got a call from Joe telling me there was a coupon from New Balance for $15 off any pair of shoes at their Tigard store.

That was good news since I am due for a new pair this year.



So Emma and I drove over and I looked at what they had.  In the end, there were only two pair that felt good.

One was this pair of brown walking shoes. I liked them. I liked the color.  They felt fine. The backs felt a little high, but that will correct when I add the Motion Control inserts.  I am a bit concerned that the tread is not hefty enough.  I bought them so I'd have a pair of shoes to train in. But I'm ordering another pair for the Camino.

The pair I really liked were the trail running shoes WT1210.   They are described as "trail runners."  These are not only comfortable, the tread is excellent.  It's much heftier and deeper than the others.  The only problem with them is they are not built on an SL-2 shoe last, which is what I like, but the size 7 wide seemed to fit ok. That was without the Motion Control insert, so I'm ordering a 7.5 online today.

Then, I'll decide which ones I will take on the Camino.

I think that is the only piece of equipment I need this year. I did purchase another Macabi skirt for the trip, because I sold my old one. I'm sorry now, because I really liked the charcoal color and this year, the only one on sale that would fit me is a dusty blue. It's 'ok' but I'm not a blue person…I'll probably sell it when the trip is over.

Today I am spending time with my granddaughter, who returns to school on Monday.
Next, I have one Nativity set to complete.
Then, I'll be getting out the final bills for the Anniewalker's 2014 Camino.

April is coming up quick!  Joe and I have been talking about which route we'll walk BEFORE we pick up our pilgrims in Pamplona.  I think we have decided to walk the Ossau Route from Gabas, hook up to the Aragones in Jaca, and then down into Pamplona.

It should take about 2 weeks, and it looks like a spectacular route! Check out this photo from the website:

 Here is a link:

Ossau Route

We walked some of this section of France when we walked from Lourdes. I'd like to scope out the area and perhaps offer this for others to walk next year, so I need to check on accommodation as well as difficulty.

Well, that's it for now.
I'd better get busy!
Buen Camino!
Annie

Starting to Train for Camino 2014!

Today, Patty invited me to a 9 mile walk in Vancouver.

We left Portland about 9:30 am.

It was overcast, foggy, and COLD!

Brrrrrr!

This was a Volkswalk and was very well attended.

There were 3 sections, and each section was 3 miles.

That's 4.82 kilometers, for those of you who think in metric.

I walked two sections, so just over 6 miles or 9.65 kilometers.

That's about half of what I usually walk in a day on the Camino.

It was enough.

It was so cold, that the hip I injured a couple of years ago

really began complaining.

So I decided I'd take it easy my first day out.

I think these cold Oregon winters are not going to agree with me.

I miss the desert heat.

But, for this year, I'll continue to walk and train with Patty.

The Volkswalks are very convenient.

And I am happy with myself for getting out of the house.

Looks like the next Volkswalk is on January 18.

It's the Hillsboro Loops and Soup walk.

It's a 10k walk, so should be perfect.

Between now and then, I'll walk on my own,

as well as start some classes at the community center.

Time to get in shape!

If you're looking for walks in your area,

check out www.ava.org

Buen Camino!