To Obanos

2013 

Down the rocky trail I continued, thinking I would stop at Uterga for the night. But after a bowl of stick-to-your-ribs lentils and a Nestea, I thought I could make four more kilometers to Obanos. 

This Albergue has 36 beds. 

After seeing how many pilgrims were rushing on 

to Puente la Reina, 

this seemed like a good place to settle in. 

I found a nice little bar and am hanging out here 

for another 30 minutes. 

The rain has started and I'm hoping it is clear for tomorrow. 

By the time the hospitalero arrived, 

there were several pilgrims waiting 

and we were all freezing to death. 

An icy wind was blowing and we couldn't wait to get inside.

Trouble is, it was colder INSIDE than out,

 and the hospitalero was not very welcoming.

When we asked for blankets, 

he firmly told us NO BLANKETS, 

that we were pilgrims and should have a saco de dormer! 

 Well, I did have a sleeping bag, 

but even with it, I was cold, as were others.

Our complaining got us an invitation to leave, 

but after about 10 pilgrims begged for blankets,

 he finally relented. 

What a mean man!

I will never stay there again, 

nor can I recommend anyone stays in Obanos

 until they get a friendlier hospitaliero.

That was one town that I shook the dust off my feet when I left!

It's unfortunate, because the albergue itself is lovely,

with a nice kitchen (if the fellow lets you use it!)

The beds were clean and nicely spaced

Drying racks were provided but it was too cold for anything to dry.

Pilgrim boots. Walking on that icy floor was hell!

I tried to use the microwave in the kitchen. He followed me in and eyeballed me like I was going to steal the silver or something. What a kook!

Here he is. The meanest man on the Camino!

To Uterga

2006

From Trinidad de Arre we got an early start to Uterga.

We chose to walk only about 18-20 kilometers.

I had heard about a tiny albergue in Uterga that had only 1 bunkbed,

and I really wanted to stay there.

It was a wonderful walk through fields, up a hill and past the huge windmills of Alto del perdon. The walk took 7 hours. We were BUSHED!  

The obligatory Perdon photo

Where we are going...

Please close the cattle gate

We are beginning to see waymarks everywhere

Statue of the Virgin before Uterga

Uterga had a great place for dinner and a cold beer

 Once we reached Uterga, we found the tiny albergue and found another peregrina had arrived before us. She was a Mexican girl named Jessica. The tiny albergue was simple, but clean and FREE!  There was a shower with hot water, a toilet and a sink. A pair of bunkbeds slept 2 pilgrims with a mat underneath that a 3d pilgrim (Joe) could pull out onto the floor.  

We washed our clothes, soaked our feet in the icy cold fountain, and then took a rest in the shade. The Camino had taken care of us again.

Later we had ensalada, fritas, and cold beer at the 2d albergue up the road.

We heard there was Mass at Eunate, but were too weary to walk.  

Another day, another Mass.

Jessica and I in front of the Albergue

Jessica sorting out her "stuff."

After a great night's sleep, we headed out next morning for Ciraqui

Pamplona - Parque de la Taconera

If you feel like escaping the crowds of Pamplona or just need a quiet break, please don't miss a walk along the ancient city walls of Pamplona and a stroll through Parque de la Taconera!

Find it on any tourist map right along the edge of the old city. Stunning views from the city walls!

There's More To Pamplona Than Bulls

Pilgrims often rush through Pamplona, 

hurried to get a bed on the next stage of their pilgrimage.

Also known as Iruña, 

this old fortress city is said to have been founded 

by the Roman general Pompey. 

In the 9th century it became the capital of Navarra. 

May I suggest you take a day of rest here; 

a day to explore this wonderful city?

There is much to see and do here. 

The walk into the city is interesting. 

You will pass many houses covered in decoration 

associated with Santiago and the Camino.

You will walk over the bridge Magdalena, 

over a drawbridge, and through the impressive city walls.

From those walls, you can see the entire city.  

Look for the Cathedral, built in ocher-colored stone.

It was built on the foundations of a 12th century predecessor; 

it has twin towers and an 18th century facade. 

 

Inside there is beautiful religious art.

Near the Plaza del Castillo 

you will find the Baroque Palacio de Navarra. 

Entrance is free!

There are many wonderful bars and restaurants in Pamplona. 

Pull up a seat and have some wine and try some tapas. 

I love albondigas, banderillas, and patatas bravas, 

which have a lovely sauce 

whose ingredients vary from town to town. 

You don't need to speak Spanish to order tapas! 

If you see something that looks good, just point to it to order! 

Pay attention to the price! 

A tapa is a single serving. 

A ración will serve two or three people. 

You can eat your tapas standing or pay to have a table, 

the choice is yours!

Strolling through Pamplona, you can see calle Santo Domingo 

where the bulls begin their run during the Fiesta of San Fermin.  

 You can visit the famous Gran Hotel La Perla 

on the corner of the Plaza del Castilla. 

This was Hemingway's favorite hotel 

and is referred to in the novel "La Montoya." 

His favorite room was No. 217, now No. 201. 

The hotel was recently  completed renovated and reopened. 

One of my favorite stops on my last Camino 

was the Museum of Navarre. 

It contains archaeological and artistic collections 

related to Navarra from the prehistoric to the present. 

The building became a museum in 1956, 4 years after I was born! 

It was originally a hospital of Our Lady of Mercy.   

Today, over the doors is a motto: “To Make The Past Present.” 

There are four floors. 

Outside you will find a garden overlooking 

the ramparts of the ancient citadel 

where there are displays of mosaics and archaeological ruins.

Displays include capitals from the ancient Romanesque Cathedral of Pamplona, Gothic scultpures, medieval silverwork, Baroque, 19^th and 20^th century works of art. There are works by Goya, Ciga, and Basiano, Caro, Oteiza, Royo, Salaberri, Aquerreta, and Manterola.

There is a place to check your mochila and your raincoat for free, if you have not left them at the albergue. There are guided tours available, but I enjoy this museum moving at my own speed.Address: Calle Cuesta Santo Domingo, s/n

Opening hours: Summer 2011: Tuesday – Saturday:  9:30-14:00 and  17:00-19:00. Sundays and Holidays: 11:00 a 14:00. Closed Mondays.

Price: 2€. Discounts for groups. FREE on Saturday afternoons and Sundays

Telephones: 848426492 - 848426498 

If the municipal albergue will not allow you two nights in Pamplona, consider staying at Albergue Casa Paderborn at Playa de Caparroso, #6, near the river. I enjoy this little hostel with it's clean rooms and nice picnic area. They serve a very nice breakfast in the common room. They also have a washer and dryer, for those who aren't ready to do their laundry by hand.

I hope this quick overview has encouraged you to take a rest stop in Pamplona! If you have been there, and have something to add, 

please leave comments for other readers.

Buen Camino!

Annie

Note:  If you would love to walk the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

Pamplona - The Mercado Santo Domingo

I've been going through all my photos from past Caminos 

to see what might be of interest to new pilgrims planning their trip.

One way to save cash is to picnic 

or purchase food and cook in the albergue. 

And though Pamplona has a lot of great places for food, including tapas, 

it can be less expensive to go to the market 

and then cook your own.

One gem that is often overlooked in Old Pamplona 

is the Mercado Santo Domingo.  

Instead of giving you directions, 

just pop by the TI (Tourist Info) booth and ask them. 

It's right in Old Pamplona,

 easy to find, 

and a yummy place to visit. 

Here are some photos, along with posted prices, 

of what you might find there:

Look for this sign on the side of the building!

Cheese! This can be purchased by the slice, then weighed.

Cheese is a very good value and is a good thing to carry in your mochila (backpack). 

Just be sure to get a dry cheese, queso seco. 

Ask the vendor for a cheese "para mi mochila" or "para el Camino."  

They'll understand. 

They are used to pilgrims.

Then just show the how much you want, using your fingers. 

They are happy to cut it just the right size!

Sometimes they'll have recipes posted.

Bacalao de Primavera sounds yummy!

Here is a recipe for cooking your bacalao (codfish)

Lots of choices for salted cod. 

Salt cod is one of my favorite backpack foods. 

It does not need to be refrigerated,

though you should keep it as cool as possible

by wrapping it in cloth or newspaper

and burying it in your pack

until you can cook it. 

I've had funny experiences with vendors

refusing to sell me the salted cod

because they think I don't understand how to cook it.

It is preserved in SALT

and the salt must be removed by soaking it 

in changes of fresh cold water

before you cook and eat it.

My grandparents were Portuguese,

and I've eaten a LOT of salted cod (bacalau).

I LOVE it.

My grandmother never refrigerated it, 

but used to hang it in the cool cellar all year. 

One of my favorite recipes is here:

Stewed Bacalau

Soak the cod in clean water overnight if possible, changing the water often. 

If you are not able to soak it overnight 

(which you are NOT if you are walking the Camino), 

then soak for a few hours, 

then put it in clean water and poach slowly, 

changing the water a few times, 

tasting the cod until it is not too salty.

1 large onion - diced

3 cloves garlic - or less if you aren't Iberian! - minced

1 large ripe tomato - diced

1 red bell pepper if you can find it

olive oil

Heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet or pot.

Add the onion and fry until clear., constantly stirring.

Add the garlic and fry until fragrant.

Add the tomato (and bell pepper) and bring to a boil, 

then simmer until it becomes a nice sauce.

Add the fish, and poach the fish for about 10-15 minutes in the sauce, 

using a spoon to immerse the fish in the sauce.

Watch all the other pilgrims start coming around 

when they smell what you're cooking!

Serve with ensalada and share if you have enough!

YUM!

It looks a lot like this photo of Bacalau Guisado I found on the internet.
Makes my mouth water just looking at the photo!

Lots of fresh vegetables are available in the mercado!

The quality of the produce at the market is exceptional and you'll pay a lot less than you will in a supermarket because you're purchasing directly from the farmer.

There are many choices of where to buy

You will also find other meats; pork, beef, chicken.

Frutas!  

The fruit in Spain is also lovely. 

Just remember, you're not in the USA. 

NO TOCA LA FRUTA!

Do not touch the fruit!

Just point to what you want, indicate the number, and let them bag it for you.

You don't have to worry.

It's all good!

Other fish choices.

Would you care for pulpo? Squid or octopus?

You will also find eggs, dried fruits, nuts, bread, 

and just about anything else you can think of in the market. 

Boiled eggs are a good snack for your next day's walk 

over Alto Perdon.

A couple of eggs, an orange, a banana, and you're set!

Go take a look! It's a wonderful place.

Buen Camino!

Annie