All About Tapas and Pinchos - 2018

Future pilgrims often ask me, "What do you eat while on pilgrimage?"  Well, the answer for me is, "Anything they serve in Spain!"  The food there is SO good, so tasty, so healthy, I'm amazed that I lost 20 pounds on my last Camino.

There is always the Pilgrim Menu or Menu del Dia. However, I'd like to tell you a little about what I have learned about another wonderful option... TAPAS!

Even the smallest villages often have a bar and a "bar" in Spain is not the same place you think of when you say "bar" in the USA. Yes, you can buy beer, wine, and mixed drinks. But you also can get coffee, breakfast, and some pretty good eats there!

It is said the tapa originated in Andalusia as a small snack to accompany sherry. The bartender would cover the glass of sherry with a saucer (or tapa) to protect it from the flies. A good bartender would decorate the plate with a tiny savory snack, and that evolved into these luscious portions we now call tapas.

  TAPA vs. RACIÓN

Something to remember is a tapa serves one. Tapas are often called "pinchos" in southern Spain. A "ración" is a larger serving, usually for 2 to 3 people, or one hungry pilgrim! I've taken these photos from the internet. Some would be considered a "tapa" but the larger portions are definitely "raciónes."  You quickly learn the difference after ordering a time or two.

In some small villages along the Camino, tapas are still free with your drink. Sometimes I was served a plate of olives and other times salted almonds or a bit of meat. Most of the time, however, there was a menu, often written on a chalkboard, and you paid a small amount for your tapas. My advice to you is to try any tapa you see offered - take a walk on the wild side and stretch your boundaries. You are, after all, on an adventure!

But if you would like to at least have some idea of what you will be eating, following is a menu of typical tapas you might see on the Camino Santiago.

ALBONDIGAS are little meatballs. This dish is said to have originated with the Moors. Hearty and filling, they come on a plate of 3 as tapas and 7 to 9 if you order a ración.  They are made of minced pork and veal or beef. They are fried, and served either dry or swimming in a savory tomato sauce.

PATATAS BRAVAS are chunks of fried potatoes coated in a thick sauce. The sauce generally is a spicy tomato sauce but it does vary from place to place, which is why it's one of my favorites. I've seen white sauce like the one above on the potatoes. Don't pass this one by!

GAMBAS A LA PLANCHA are grilled whole shrimp. They are seasoned before grilling and very good. You just peel them and eat them with your fingers. A tapa usually has 3 shrimp. A pincho will have more.

JAMÓN SERRANO is salt-cured ham dried in the mountain air. It is considered a national treasure and in each bar you will see these whole hams hanging.

This ham deserves its own blog, it is so famous. The pigs are fed on sweet mountain acorns, making the meat very sweet and the flavor is deeper than prosciutto. The ham is shaved off in thin slices. It almost always comes with chunks of fresh baked bread. But you also may see it served on top of melon slices or in other combinations.

We saw many pigs on the Via de la Plata, their red eyes shining in the early morning darkness, their grunts startling me!

BANDERILLAS are bits and pieces of meat, vegetable, and/or fruit served threaded on toothpicks. They could consist of marinated fish, hard-boiled eggs, shrimp, olives, or just about anything!  They are sometimes served with bread or crackers. They are to be eaten in one bite, blending the flavors. A banderilla is the sharp barbed stick used to weaken the bull in bullfighting.

CALAMARES FRITOS. These are rings of squid, very lightly breaded or simply dusted with flour and deep fried. They come piled on a plate garnished with a lemon slice. Squeeze the lemon juice onto the fritos before eating. I can make a meal of these!

QUESO MANCHEGO is tangy sheep's cheese. It comes from LaMancha and is one of Spain's most popular cheese. You can buy it all along the Camino by weight and it's good in a backpack for a couple of days if you bury it in your clothing to keep it cool. It is a staple food item when I'm walking. It is served in cubes or slices with bread in the bars. It is often served in combination with jamón serrano or other meat.  Don't miss trying it! If you live near a COSTCO, they sell manchego cheese! I have a hunk in my fridge right now!

ACEITUNAS DE LA MADRILEÑA are served everywhere. Aceitunas are olives. They can be served alone or "de la Madrileña" which means in a nice vinegar/scallion/garlic marinade. I bought bags of aceitunas for under a Euro to carry in my mochila on the Camino.

MEJILLONES A LA MARINERA. These are mussels cooked in a lovely garlicky wine sauce. They may be served in the shell, on the half-shell, or shelled in a bowl of sauce. Usually served with crusty bread to soak up the sauce, eat them with a toothpick.

ENSALADILLA RUSA is a cold potato salad that can contain any combination of tuna, shrimp, potatoes, carrots, peas, peppers, or eggs. The dressing is usually mayonnaise or a home made garlic mayo.

 

CROQUETAS are a tapa you will find everywhere. The ingredients are greatly varied. The croqueta could be of fish, potato, ham, just about anything. They're little balls of food, which have been rolled in a coating and deep fried. They are always very good and filling!

SALPICÓN DE MARISCOS is a cold seafood salad. Ingredients can vary but it is almost marinated in a vinaigrette.

BOQUERONES are one of my favorites! They are tiny marinated white anchovies. Nothing like what you buy in the can, please be sure to try them! They are not "fishy" because they are fresh! Great on a slice of bread! They may come whole or filleted. Sometimes you find boquerones deep fried.

POLLO AL AJILLO is a tapa of small pieces of browned chicken, simmered in a garlic sauce. The sauce can vary. It may or may not have tomato, but no matter...it will be wonderful! Eat it with crusty bread.

TORTILLA. This is not your Mexican tortilla. This is more like a fritata or thick omelette, served in wedges or squares, alone or with ham. It has potato, onion, and sometimes other vegetables. But generally it's pretty straight forward. I love this for breakfast but it's good any time.

FRITURA DE PESCADO is a plate of fried fish and other seafood. It's a bit like tempura.

ENSALADA DE PIMIENTOS ROJOS is a wonderful salad of roasted red peppers and onions. The salad has an olive oil and vinegar dressing. Very rich. As with most tapas, it is great with crusty bread. I bought roasted peppers and put them on sandwiches for my lunch when walking the Camino.

CHORIZO is a garlicky sausage, nothing like the chorizo of Mexico. Made from acorn fed pigs, it literally melts in your mouth!  It is served in many ways. It might be simply slice don a place, as shown above, or you might get it on a slice of bread, as shown in this photo from a Sevilla tapa bar:

You also might get it in a tiny bowl with sauce, as this photo shows:

It can be served cold or hot.  No matter how it is served, try it! You can't lose!

CARACOLES are one of my very most favorite tapas. These are the same tiny snails you see crawling all over the vegetation on the Camino. Stewed in a savory garlic sauce, they are an amazing treat with a cold beer - instant energy! Eat them with your fingers by pulling them out of the shell with a toothpick.

MORCILLA is a savory pork blood sausage. It can be seasoned in a variety of ways. I like some. I don't like others. My advice is to just try it every chance you get. I can hear you saying, "Eeeewwww... sausage made of blood!"  But before you do, think about those luscious, flavor filled bits and pieces you scrape up from the pan when you're cooking pork chops? THAT is pork blood and is what morcilla can taste like. It can be incredibly good! It can be served in slices, but is usually laid on a slice of bread and topped with potato or some other item.

OREJAS DE CERDO are just what they sound like; pig's ears. They are either deep fried or cooked in a savory sauce. Not for the weak-kneed, you might be surprised at their goodness!

To me, these are an excellent example of the way that the Spanish people live the philosophy I love! They respect the animal they are killing and eating by not wasting one single piece! It's the way our grandparents lived, before we got so spoiled with our plastic filled meat cases here in the United States. I have met many people who, believe it or not, have no idea what animal they are eating and never think about how it was raised or butchered.

In Spain, people still live close to the earth and respect her.
That is one reason I'm so in love with that country!

So that's it! These are some of my favorite tapas! As you can see, there are many choices for a hungry pilgrim in Spain. A supper of tapas can be a great option when you're on a budget.

If you have a favorite tapa that I did not mention, please comment. I'll look for a photo and post it.

Buen Camino, Pilgrims, and Buen Aprevecho!

Love,
Annie

Tips for Keeping the Weight Down 2018

The suggested weight to carry (by most experienced pilgrims) is approximately 10% of your body weight. This means if you weigh 160, your pack, including water and food, should not weigh more than 16 pounds.

It's not as difficult as it sounds.

Here are some tips to keep the weight down. Some are my own, and others were given to me by some American Pilgrim on the Camino Facebook Friends.

THE RIGHT SIZE PACK.
Take the smallest backpack possible. I carry a 28L pack - the largest pack I've carried was my old 30L Arcteryx and I've never suffered for space. And don't believe that it's ok to carry a larger pack and just not fill it up. It will not be good for your back. Things will shuffle around. You will get blisters on your feet from the uneven load and you'll find things to carry in that extra space. Just buy or borrow the right size pack to begin with.

CUT YOUR HAIR SHORT!
Or if it is long, braid it.
But don't drag along shampoos, conditioners, and hair products.
Be free!
Just wash, shake it out, and go.
Use the same bar for shampoo and shower.
No comb, no brush, no problem!

NO COSMETICS!
For 6 lovely weeks, go natural.
Don't worry about makeup.
No mascara, no eyeliner, and please, no perfume!
You will be staying in close quarter with other pilgrims, many of whom may be allergic to your perfume.

LOTION? USE OLIVE OIL OR BUTTER.
Both are free.
Both are great skin conditioners.
Grab extra at dinner!

Instead of heavy SUNSCREEN...
Wear a hat and carry an umbrella.
Doubles for sun/rain.

SMALLER CONTAINERS

Deodorant.  I have used two types of deodorant on the Camino.  One is a deodorant stone, which I break into a smaller piece.

I'm old enough to remember using paste deodorant. It is easily applied with fingers.  One year I cut off a piece of regular SECRET paste deodorant and smashed it into a tiny lightweight plastic container. That worked great. Just rub your fingers over the top and apply. You don't have to see it on your fingers for it to work. Solid or gel, either would work. You don't need much. My container is about 2 inches wide and maybe 1/2 inch deep. After about 4 years, it still has deodorant in it.

Toothbrush and Paste.

Ann Brooks suggested cutting the handle off your toothbrush to save weight.

I prefer a lightweight foldable brush you can buy at the drugstore. The handle is hollow so it is very light and folding it keeps the brush clean.  I bought mine at Walgreens Drugstore.

For toothpaste, I take a tiny travel tube. When I run out, I either buy another travel size or just use salt, which is a wonderful cleaner and toughens the gums!

Floss

Helen Beletti suggests a tiny travel size floss container. If you can't find it at the drugstore, ask your dentist. They always have samples.

Duct Tape
Tim McElhannon suggests, "Warp duct tape around trekking poles to use for emergency repairs to shoes and clothing."  This is an excellent idea and I've done this for many years! I used duct tape last year to hold my shoes together the last 100 kilometers.  Here is a photo of someone using pink duct tape, which also marks your poles and discourages thievery. Notice the mailing tube for checking poles on the airplane.

Tenacious Tape and ONE Medicine Bottle
Lisa Morales says, "My first aid kit is an empty medicine (pill) bottle with just the essentials. I use a small roll of Tenacious Tape instead of duct tape. Waterproof and no sticky residue. Fixes tents, tarps, sneakers and blisters. "

Featherweight Undies

Lucy Fox posted, "I have discovered a women's underwear that weighs NOTHING. Hanes Smooth Stretch hipsters. They take up almost no room. Best of all, they are super comfortable and very quick drying, you can wash 'em out and  they are dry in a few hours, and you can probably do fine with a 3 pack which sells for about $7.50 on Amazon."

Dr. Bronners

Nancy Rich said, "I shave my Bonners Soap into a small squirt container that I carry instead of the bar of soap. Each time I am going to use it I add water....shake............and squirt out soapy liquid for hair-body-clothes washing. Once the liquid is out it is lightweight again until the next time I need it and add water again. Lasts a long time."

Try a Shampoo Bar

Personally, I'm hooked on shampoo bars.  I don't like the idea of something spilling into my pack.  You can use the bar for shampooing your hair as well as for bathing. Lightweight and small, I prefer Liggets Bar.  I cut one in half for 6 weeks of Camino. Share with a friend or save for your next Camino.

Aveeno Face Pads

Debbie Garth cuts Aveeno Face pads into halves and carries them in a ziplock bag. Lightweight and convenient!  Count the number of days you need and divide by two!  She also puts vaseline in a ziplock.

Clothing

Clothing should be lightweight and quick drying for the Camino.  If you live in the USA, check your local Goodwill store. They have an "Active Wear" section that is always full of great Camino wear!

Guidebooks

If you are taking a smart phone, consider a guidebook app instead of carrying a physical book.  "Melanie" used to sell a great one for the Via de la Plata. I'm sure there are apps for the Camino Frances as well.

Laundry

Take a dozen big safety pins instead of clothespins. They are smaller, lighter, and will discourage clothing thieves.  Your clothes won't blow off the line with safety pins, either.

I take an elastic clothesline and hang my clothes around my bed for privacy in busy albergues.

For handwashing, take 1/4 of a bar of Fels Naptha in a ziplock. Or wait until you get to Spain and buy and split up a bar of cold water washing soap they sell there in every market.

If you plan on using washing machines, don't bother taking laundry detergent. It comes with the price of the load.

LAYER CLOTHING and Multi-task Clothing

Because you are walking through so many varied microclimates on the Camino, it's best to pack lightweight clothing that can be layered. Instead of a heavy coat, take a featherweight fleece and a featherweight windbreaker/raincoat. Or a fleece and an ALTUS poncho (which blocks the wind nicely).  A lightweight pair of long underwear can double as pajamas or leggings under shorts. A rolled up jacket can double as a pillow. 

A lightweight sarong can double as a towel or a skirt in a Cathedral.

Here are a couple of cool videos that will show you how! Some really cute ideas!

Sarong Skirt Ideas

Scarf to Skirt

These are just a few ideas of how to keep the weight down.

I'll add to them as people post.

Or message me if you have your own and we'll add them to the blog!

Buen Camino!

Annie

The ALTUS Poncho - 2018

If you hang around Camino forums for very long, 

you'll hear people talking about the ALTUS poncho. 

What the heck IS an ALTUS poncho?

The ALTUS poncho is a rain poncho

but better.

The ALTUS has a large "hump" on the back 

that completely covers your backpack.

When you're not using that "hump,"

it snaps neatly down to the poncho,

making the back flat.

The ALTUS also has sleeves,

unlike other ponchos,

and the sleeves have elasticized cuffs,

so your arms stay completely dry.

Here you can see the coverage with Linda and Patty's ALTUS

The ALTUS both zips up the front,

and snaps up the front,

so a strong wind won't blow it up or off of you.

In fact, it makes a very good windbreaker

for those cold, windy days.

The ALTUS has a large hood,

which fits comfortably over your hat,

whether it is a baseball cap style,

or a Tilley hat with a larger brim.

In fact, though the ALTUS hood has a brim,

I find it better to wear it over my hat,

for stability and better vision.

In other words,

the hat keep the brim of the ALTUS 

from flapping around in the wind,

and keeps it stabilized.

It also keeps the hood up in a way 

that keeps the rain from hitting your face and neck.

The ALTUS is so good at keeping your warm

that I've literally used it

as a blanket at Roncesvalles,

when one of the pilgrims in my group 

didn't bring a sleeping bag, 

and I gave her my own.

I simply put on my longjohns 

and slept with the ALTUS over me

and it kept me toasty warm.

People have asked if it keeps you dry?

It keeps me dry as a bone.

However,

like any other gear, 

you must learn to use it.

You must vent the Altus properly.

in order to stay dry.

Because you are walking and sweating,

the ALTUS will collect condensation,

like any other rain gear,

and you will get soaked by your own sweat.

To keep that from happening,

I always leave the top several inches of the ALTUS open

when I'm walking in rain,

so the heat can escape.

And though you can't help but get a little damp

from condensation of your own body heat,

you do not get soaked if it's vented properly,

and you do stay warm.

If I'm walking on a day where it rains, then stops,

then rains, the stops,

between rains I simply unzip the poncho

take my arms out of the sleeves,

and let it hang loose from my pack.

It stays (unless of course it's  too windy,

in which case I'd wear it to block the wind).

It doesn't come off because of the neck of the poncho.

And then when the rain starts again,

I slip my arms in, zip it up, and off I go!

At the time of this writing (Feb 2016)

the  ALTUS cannot yet be purchased in the United States.

There are several places you can purchase it

at the beginning of your Camino.

In St. Jean Pied de Port, 

Boutique du Pelerin carries the ALTUS poncho

as well as other pilgrim needs.

If you email Pierre, and ask nicely,

he will hold a poncho for you.

You can pick it up and pay for it on the day you arrive.

Just be sure to give him your name, size, color, and date of arrival.

Here is his website link:

http://www.boutique-du-pelerin.com/en/

In Zubiri, there is a sports shop called Planeta Agua.

It is on the main street of the village.

Here is their website link:

http://www.planeta-agua.com/

In the past, they have carried the ALTUS,

and I see they take Paypal.

So you may be able to order ahead, pay,

and pick up your poncho when you reach Zubiri.

This might be your best bet if you are 

starting out in Roncesvalles

and did not get your poncho in Pamplona

In Pamplona, Caminoteca is the place to go.

Located in Old Town, they also carry the ALTUS poncho

as well as other pilgrim gear.

The last time I checked, 

the prices for the ALTUS were less here,

so if you're starting by flying into Pamplona

it would be worth a stop to get your poncho.

I'm not sure if they'll hold one for you.

I'm emailing them today to ask if they take Paypal

or if they'll hold a poncho (or sticks)

so come back in a day or two and I will post their answer.

Of course, you can take regular rain gear.

On my first Camino I wore a rain jacket and rain pants.

But the weight put me off and I needed something more lightweight

that would cover my legs and hips.

The ALTUS keeps my feet dry.

I am 5'3" and usually start the Camino weighing around 155.

So I should by most calculations wear a SMALL.

However, I buy a large,

because I like the way the large covers me 

halfway down my legs, 

keeping the rain off my feet.

Also, if you were to be injured or get lost,

the ALTUS can make a very good shelter,

using your walking sticks.

You could cover up with it 

to shelter you from the elements.

Ralph and Toni Marie, from Las Vegas, spent the night on the mountain!

I did meet one couple in 2014

who got stuck all night

on the pass between Orisson and Roncesvalles

because they started too late in the day

and were caught in the dark in a snowstorm.

They snuggled under a bush

praying the Rosary to stay awake,

until it was light enough to see the trail and walk down.

They were lucky they didn't freeze to death!

I've kept in touch with them,

and they did make it to Santiago.

If they'd had an ALTUS poncho,

or two,

they would have had a much more comfortable night!

OTHER PONCHOS

I have tried the Sea to Summit

and the Bluefield Poncho,

both of which can be purchased on Amazon.

I hated both.

The reason was because they did not zip up the front,

and I about had a heat stroke 

just sitting in my living room with the danged things on.

See my review of the Bluefield here:

http://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2015/12/review-of-bluefield-poncho.html

And remember,

if you wear rain pants and rain jacket,

you'll need a pack cover,

which you do NOT need if you're using an ALTUS.

So,

those are all the reasons I love the ALTUS poncho.

If you have any questions, please list them below.

Buen Camino!

Annie

***

Need help planning your Camino? 

Don't want to walk alone? 

Don't want to race for a bed?

Walk with us in a small group or alone.

Booked lodging!

Anniewalkers Camino

Which Money Belt is Best? 2018

Most pilgrims agree that a money belt is a necessity on the Camino Santiago.

It makes the most sense to use an ATM card 

and withdraw €200-€300 when you find a bank, 

and then spread that cash out over several days. 

Using my budget of €20 per day, 

one withdrawal can last me up to 10 days.

I take out €20 each morning 

and carry it in a change purse

that is easy to access.

The rest travels in a money belt with my passport and credit card.

There are many options for carrying your cash on the Camino.

Here are a few:

Neck pouch.

Review: I do not recommend these at all.

First of all, the strap around your neck is a dead giveaway.

Thieves have been known to grab these and cut them with a blade.

The ones that cannot be cut could strangle you if the thief was on a bike.

I just don't think they're safe at all.

Leg Safe.

Again, I do not recommend these.

I have seen pickpockets on the Metro

drop to their knees and run their hands

up a man's pants, because they know this is a popular option.

It only takes them a second

to grab your leg safe 

and jump off the train!

Waist Belt.

A regular waist-band money belt.

You can find these in all travel stores.

You can also find them in the Rick Steves travel store.

The are a zippered flat pouch that you wear around your waist.

The compartments are large enough for your passport,

and often have separate places for credit cards and cash.

They have a snap buckle that is plastic.

Please note this belt is to be worn UNDER your clothing, 

not over.

Review:  I wore this type of belt for several years. Sometimes it was uncomfortable because it continually rode up unless I tightened it, in which case it felt binding.  My passport and cash often was damp with sweat. But I still recommend this type of belt over a neck-style.

Bra Caddy

Here's another option.

I don't think it would be too comfortable backpacking,

but hey…

Hidden Pocket.

This is one of my favorites. 

It is a pocket, with various compartments. 

It is big enough for your passport, cash, and credit cards.  

It has two loops, one brown and one black, 

so you can wear it over your belt, 

then tuck it into your skirt or pants.  

It's easy to access. 

I like wearing this along with a regular money belt. (see below) 

It comes in different colors.

 I like the tan because it can't be seen under light clothing.

Standard Money Belt

In addition to the money pouch above,

this year I bought a regular money belt.

I bought the one made by 

Binh,

in a polyester weave.

It is lightweight,

not bulky at all, 

and the zipper is quite long,

so there's space to store several large bills.

The belts can be purchased in leather as well.
I tried this belt one year and discarded it.
It's just not convenient to me.
For a man, it might be a good way to store extra cash,
or for a woman who wears pants with belt loops.
But I didn't care for it.

Splitting Up The Cash

However you decide to carry your cash and cards,

it's probably a good idea to split it up.

Carry some in one belt,

and some in another.

Dummy Wallet

Some people carry a "dummy wallet."

This is a wallet with a credit card or two

that are outdated,

maybe a couple of €20 or €50 bills.

In case of pickpocket or theft,

this wallet can be surrendered easily,

and you're not out your entire bank!

Here is a good blog on what to carry 

in a "sacrificial wallet."

http://blog.backpackerbucks.com/gear/sacrificial-wallet-thwart-theives-stay-safe/

Whichever money belt you decide on,

I suggest you fill it,

and wear it around your hometown for a few days,

so you will know whether or not 

it is going to be comfortable on the Camino.

ON THE CAMINO

Never, ever leave your money, credit cards, passport,

or anything you cannot afford to lose

unattended.

Never leave it with another pilgrim

no matter how friendly they appear.

On my first Camino, I met three young people

whose Camino ended after 3 days.

In Pamplona, they left their bags

with a friendly fellow pilgrim

they had walked with from SJPP.

The "pilgrim" had targeted them

and when she agreed to watch their bags

while they showered,

she robbed them of all cash and credit cards,

and vanished in the Pamplona night.

Sad but true.

When you shower, put your valuables into a 

zip lock bag, or special waterproof bag 

and 

TAKE THEM INTO THE SHOWER WITH YOU!

* * *

And remember,

NEVER get into your money belt

in a public place.

Access it in private each morning,

in a bathroom stall if necessary,

taking out your cash for the day.

When you go to the ATM,

go with a friend when possible.

Have them turn facing outwards,

while you get your cash.

And then immediately go somewhere

you can put your cash away

out of the public eye.

Watch out for children who want to "help" you!
Keep your hand over the slot where the money comes out.
See my post on pickpockets here:
PICKPOCKETS

At night, don't just leave your money belt and valuables by your bedside.

Be sure they are safe where nobody can pick them up and walk out with them.

I often stealthily tuck mine into the foot box of my sleeping bag.

There is very little theft on the Camino.

But it does happen.

And as the Camino becomes more and more popular,

petty crime increases.

Thieves look for an easy target, so...

Don't be paranoid, 

but don't be naive.

And you will have a

 Buen Camino!