Flying to Rome and The Wrong Train to Vigo! 2018

Toward the end of September in 2009, 

while walking in Spain,

I caught a nasty flu. 

The weather in Santiago was cold and wet, 

and so I decided to take a short vacation in Rome, 

where the sun was shining 
and the weather was still warm.

Photo by Key to Italy

I found an inexpensive place to stay near Rome called Tiber Camping. 

The ad stated, 

"Situated just outside Prima Porta, 

on the banks of Rome's historic Tiber River, 

Camping Tiber combines all of the services today's traveller expects, 

with an excellent location, 

and a warm and friendly atmosphere. 

It's an unbeatable combination, 

that will ensure your stay in the Eternal city is a pleasant one" 

The photos looked inviting; full of sunshine! 

Just what the doctor ordered...

 A round-trip ticket to Rome was only 220 Euros. 

So I hopped on the plane and took off for Rome.

I knew the metro was fairly easy to navigate in Rome. The website gave great directions:

If you are in the city itself, and are looking to reach Camping Tiber, just hop on the underground metro and head toward the Flaminio metro stop, on the A Line.
Exit the stop itself, and change to the aboveground metro, F line, Ferrovia-Viterbo. Get off at Prima Porta which is where our bus picks up every half hour.

No problem!  I arrived just fine at a very nondescript metro stop and waited for the bus to pick me up. It was right on time. I had paid only 10 Euro per night for my stay and planned on being there a week while I recovered from my cold.  When we drove up, the place looked fairly deserted. It was the end of the season and they were getting ready to close for the winter. I was sad to find the pool was closed, and the restaurant staff was small. But the receptionist was nice and gave us a key to our cabin.

The cabins are small. Ours was just large enough to hold two beds. We chose to use the camp showers to save money.  We got into our room, checked the beds out of habit, and guess what!??

 

 BED BUGS!

Knowing this would not work for me, I tromped back to the receptionist, told her there were bedbugs in the cabin beds, and got the key to another cabin.

MORE BEDBUGS!

This time, she gave me a key t
hat fit ALL the cabin doors (scary) 
and we checked cabins until we found one with no sign of the pesky critters. 

 Uneasily, we settled in
and had no problems with bedbugs
during the rest of our stay.

The campsite was really quite a nice place to stay. It was out of the busy city, yet only a short metro trip into Rome. The cost was not much, and the bus from Tiber Camping went regularly to the metro station to take and pick up passengers.  

Tiber Camping had laundry facilities 
and nice showers.

The food was good at the bar and restaurant 
and the staff was friendly.

Despite the bedbugs, 
I would stay there again.

Photo from Trip Advisor

We had a nice visit in Rome and I got a lot of rest.
On October 5, I planned to return to Santiago
and take a train to Moratiños 
to visit Rebekah
and to decide 
where I'd walk the last few weeks of my trip.

I finally felt like I was recovering from the flu.
Joe wanted to visit friends in the Netherlands,
but I wanted to walk some more,
so we parted company in Rome
and I flew back to Santiago.

Once there, I found the train from Santiago to Sahagun left at 9:15 am
and I bought a ticket 
and made plans to arrive at the station early.
I had 35 days left to walk,
and was thinking I'd like to try 
walking the Aragones Route.
But I wanted to talk to Rebekah 
before making that decision.

It was raining cats and dogs in Santiago,
and I was still tired from the flu,
but was excited to visit the Peaceable Kingdom.

It was a nice walk to the Santiago train station.
I arrived an hour early, had a coffee, and relaxed.
Plenty of time! Plenty of time!

My Spanish is good, but not perfect, 
so I asked the attendant,
"Where do I stand to catch the correct car 
to Sahagun?"

She pointed to a spot and said,
"Right there! If you stand there, 
the door will open
and you'll be in the correct car."

The train station in Santiago 
is not large and confusing,
like in some of the larger cities.
There are only a few tracks.
So happily, 
I planted myself on the spot and waited.
My train was to arrive at 9:15 am, 
remember?

At 9:13 am, a train rolled in, 
and a door opened in front of me. 

I stepped into the train and found a seat.

And the minute the train began to move, 
I was horrified!

We were going in the wrong direction!

"Where does this train go?"
I asked a passenger.

"To Vigo!" she replied.

Holy Moley!
I was on the wrong train!

I spoke to the conductor. 

No more stops until Vigo.

Not much could be done.

The only thing to do was sit back and enjoy it.

I chuckled.

My life is one big old adventure!

I arrived in Vigo and went to customer service.

The man working was very kind.

He laughed and told me, "You're not the only one!"

Apparently, they have at least one pilgrim each week
who makes this same mistake.

He wrote out a free ticket to Sahagun,
and told me to catch my train at 2:47 pm.

I had some time to waste,
so I went across the street to find a computer café
so I could let Rebekah know I´d be a day late.

Vigo is a great city and 
I'd like to go back sometime for a visit.

I found a computer, emailed Rebekah, 
then poked around town.

At 2:47 I caught the CORRECT train to Leon,
where I'd have to spend the night
and catch a morning train to Sahagun.

This new train did not go past Santiago,
but took another route through Galicia
which was simply spectacular!

I'd highly recommend taking the train to Vigo,
then BACK to Leon just for the scenic trip!
It was lovely.
It passed through Ourense and the beautiful Galician canyons and countryside.
It was lush, green, and so beautiful.
I'm really happy I made this mistake
and had the opportunity to take this train ride!

If you decide to do this, I will caution you. 

The train arrives in León at 9:45 pm, in the dark.

The stations are NOT announced and you cannot see the signs in the dark.

So you must pay attention to the stops and ask someone to help you.

I arrived in León at 10 pm and walked 
in the rain to the convent.
By the time I reached it, the doors were closed
and the windows were shuttered.
It was cold and dark and it was raining hard!

Oh no!

I rang the bell and waited.
I rang it again.
And again.
Finally, a very kind hospitalero,
after gently reminding me that the albergue closed at 22:30,
let me in.

He took my information,
stamped my credential 
and his wife showed me to my room.
I had slept here 5 weeks earlier in an empty room.
This time it was PACKED.

Photo by "Homers Travels"

I found squished bedbugs all over the bathroom floor!
It totally freaked me out,
but there was no place to go this late.
So I sprayed my bed and slept in my clothes,
not wantihg to chance bugs in my sleeping bag.
It was a little hot and stuffy
and another peregrina asked to have the window opened.
I was so happy!
"SURE!" I told her. 

The clean fresh air felt wonderful and I fell asleep in just a few minutes.

I woke up in the middle of the night, cold,
and used my ALTUS raincoat to keep off the chill.
It worked great!
I'll remember this; it will save taking one piece of clothing.
That raincoat was a great investment!
I bought mine from a peregrina on her way home for only 10 Euro.

I woke up at 6 am and had breakfast before the rush,
showered and was on the street by 7 am.
I grabbed a cup of coffee on the way to the train station
and caught the 9:27 to Sahagun.

Yesterday's mistake, although it made for a long day,
provided a wonderful "free" ride to Vigo.
It was absolutely stunning countryside!

My ticket from León to Sahagun 
cost 4.10 Euro ida solo (one way)
That and 1.10 Euro for the coffee 
put me at 5.20 Euro for the day.
Not bad.
I spent two lovely nights with Rebekah and Paddy 
at The Peaceable Kingdom.

Photo from the Web-my camera was broken

I tried to earn my keep by cleaning the art studio.
They were working on their bodega while I was there,
and I enjoyed long evening walks with Paddy.
They have a wonderful place there; be sure to stop if you can.  

After a short rest,
I was ready to continue to Jaca 
to begin walking the Aragones route.

But I will always be thankful 
that I took the wrong train 

and ended up in Vigo.

Sometimes, things happen for a reason.

One of the great lessons of the Camino

is to let go of the reins and just

ride the wave of life

and see where it takes you!

Oh yes, and remember,
the trains in Spain run ON TIME!

Buen Camino!

Annie

See my AnnieWalkersCamino website at 

Anniewalkers Camino

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of EuropeW

Siesta Time on the Camino - 2018

The word siesta comes from the Latin hora sexta – "the sixth hour."   If you count from dawn, the sixth hour is noon.

Many societies that celebrate the siesta were agricultural, and in cultures dominated by agriculture it was common to have the largest meal of the day in the early afternoon.  I grew up in the hot San Joaquin Valley. I was reared by my grandfather, a farmer. At the height of the noon heat, all work would stop and we’d go into the coolness of the house to eat a large midday meal. The heavy intake of food at that time combined with the heat contributed to feeling of post-lunch drowsiness. It’s a lot like the feeling you have after a big old Thanksgiving dinner.

 The midday nap is prominent in many countries where the afternoon heat dramatically reduces productivity. The Life of Charlemagne recounts the emperor's summertime siesta: "In summer, after his midday meal, he would eat some fruit and take another drink; then he would remove his shoes and undress completely, just as he did at night, and rest for two or three hours.”

In Serbia and Slovenia, it is common to observe the so-called "house rule", requiring people to refrain from telephoning or visiting each other between 2 p.m. and 5 p.m., as people are supposed to be resting. Lunch in Serbia and Slovenia, eaten usually between 1 p.m. and 2 p.m., is the main dish of the day. 

In some southern German-speaking regions, the Mittagspause or Mittagsruhe is still customary; shops close, and children are expected to play quietly indoors.

 In South Asia the post-lunch nap is common.  In Bengal, the word which describes the concept is bhat-ghum, literally meaning "rice-sleep", a nap after lunch. In north India a colloquial term sustānā (सुस्ताना), which literally means "taking small nap" (possibly of Persian origin), is used.

Afternoon sleep is also a common habit in China and Taiwan after the midday meal. This is called wujiao (午覺) in Chinese.

Some Japanese offices have special rooms known as napping rooms for their workers to take a nap during lunch break or after overtime work.

In Islam, it is encouraged to take a nap before midday. 
It is called by some Qailulah.

 In the United States, the United Kingdom, and a growing number of other countries, a short sleep has been referred to as a "power nap."

Most studies agree that a short midday siesta is very good for you. According to the website called Siesta Awareness, a Washington Post article of February 13, 2007 reports at length on studies in Greece that indicate that those who nap have less risk of heart attack. But then there were studies that indicated people who nap are more likely to develop Diabetes Type 2. 
So go figure…
  
One of the challenges for the Camino pilgrim 
is the cultural difference in eating times. 
Because the Spanish eat on a different schedule, 
you may find opening and closing times awkwardly unfamiliar 
until you get into the groove. 

There are two periods of siesta in Spain. 
One is the siesta time for shops and businesses. 
During this time, many people go to a bar or restaurant. 

The other is siesta for the restaurants, 
who obviously can't rest when everyone wants to come and eat.   
A very important thing to remember when you're scheduling your day 
are these two siesta times.

The Siesta by Van Gogh

Shops and businesses close from approximately 2pm until 5pm.

Bars and restaurants close from about 4pm until about 8 or 9pm. 

Even if a bar is open during these hours, 
you will find that their menu for food is very limited.

A Siesta by Frederick Arthur Bridgman

This dead period in the late afternoon 
when everything shuts down in Spain 
gives the pilgrim the feeling of walking through a ghost town.

La Siesta by Pablo Picasso

Although some people still work in the fields in Spain, 
you may wonder why shops and businesses in big cities close down. 

La Siesta by Antonio Gattorno

One reason is because the Spanish like to have a long lunch. 
The Spanish are very family oriented.
Adult children often still make their way "home" 
where their mother prepares a huge lunch for the whole family.
Elderly parents, children, and grandchildren can reconnect during this meal, 
which can last up to two hours. 
Afterwards, everyone needs to digest their food 
and rest before returning to work.

John William Godwards "Sweet Siesta of a Summer Day"

 Another reason the Spanish stop for siesta 
is simply because they want to! 

Stopping for a long lunch 
allows people to stay up later in the evening without fading.  
 I learned when we were visiting family in Portugal 
that the Portuguese also keep these interesting hours. 
We were staying in an upstairs apartment 
that has been in my family for over 400 years. 
As I brushed my teeth at 10:30 pm one night getting ready for bed, 
I heard a horn honking outside.

I went to the balcony and found a car full of cousins 
dressed up and ready to rock and roll! 
They were yelling for us to come on down and go party with them. 
We were exhausted, being American tourists
and not having rested that afternoon.

We declined, 
wondering between ourselves if they were absolutely NUTS! 
Later I learned about the siesta, 
and realized we had missed a wonderful opportunity 
to enjoy the company of family and friends.

 The Spanish nightlife is an all-night affair - visitors to Spain are surprised to see the streets just starting to fill up at midnight and are even more surprised to see people in their 60s and 70s still out at 3am. 

It is likely however that you, 
as a pilgrim may be too tired, after a long day of trekking, 
to enjoy the Spanish nightlife!

UNLESS you have a siesta!

Siesta by John Singer Sargeant

Remember these siesta hours and plan your shopping around them.  
If you don't take this into consideration, 
many stores and restaurants will be closed 
and you may struggle to get everything done, 
and still hold on to the pilgrim mentality 
in the face of cultural incompatibilities.

Photo by Stevosaurus - pending approval

For the pilgrim walking the Camino, a siesta serves two purposes. 
First, it will help you get into the work/sleep/eat cycle 
of the country you are visiting. 

Second, a short midday nap will invigorate you 
for walking those last kilometers. 

Third, if you nap when you arrive at the albergue, 
those rustling plastic bags and roncadores (drunks)
won’t take such a toll on your rest.

By the way, if you have low blood sugar 
it's a good idea to keep a bit of food in your pack 
for those stretches you can't find anyplace open.

How to Take a Siesta

1. Lie down if possible on the ground, the bed, floor or sofa. If it’s comfortable, you can sit back in your chair. Use a cushion or pillow if you can. 

2. Set your alarm for 10-20 minutes.

3. Close your eyes. Use something to block bright light such as a sleep mask, a newspaper, your arm....

4. Let your mind wander or think of sinking downwards.  Even if you do not actually sleep, the process will relax your mind and refresh you.

5. Enjoy.

Have a Buen Camino!

Annie

PS:  Lately, there has been talk of change, and that the siesta may go away.
We'll see...

* * * 

If you'd like to walk the Camino
but aren't quite ready to do it alone,
see my website:

Anniewalkers Camino

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe

A Wine Festival in Azofra

Note:  This festival was on one of our first Caminos. These festivals still happen each Autumn and if you're lucky, you'll pass through on a festival day!

***
On a dusty and hot September day,

a group of weary pilgrims

strolled into the tiny village of Azofra 

to a curious sight.

People were carrying their kitchen tables

out of their houses and into the streets!

There was an unmistakable air of expectation.

Something was about to happen!

We checked into the refugio

and asked another pilgrim,

"What is going on?"

She didn't know.

Leaving our mochilas on our bed (we used to do that),

we went out into the village and began looking around.

There were big jugs of wine,

cooling in the local fountain.

Old men were hanging around in small, intimate groups,

chattering away about farming matters.

The women seemed to be missing in action.

A band of young men waited in the square, 

instruments in hand.

Wandering through the village,

we followed our nose to an empty lot

where a man was cooking giant pans of paella

over an open fire.

In another lot,

women were cooking pots of lamb stew.

The fragrance was unbelievable!

My mouth began to water.

Walking 26 kilometers gives a pilgrim a great hunger!

How could we swing a seat at one of these tables?

Soon, I realized many people in the village

were wearing a bright orange handkerchief around their necks.

What significance did this have?

I asked a local,

who explained that you must go to the building in the square

and pay 8 Euro for your dinner.

As a receipt,

they'd give you the handkerchief.

AWESOME!

We got into line,

got our handkerchiefs,

and hurried back to the refugio.

Together, a group of us dragged our kitchen table

out into the street to join the others

then rushed back inside to gather up

plates, silverware, and glasses.

We returned just in time!

Here came a couple of ladies with a wheelbarrow -

and inside the wheelbarrow was a gigantic pan of PAELLA!

Each person was given a generous scoop!

This group of pilgrims usurped someone else's personal table.

A frustrated lady tried to explain that the tables belonged to her family,

but the pilgrims just smiled and nodded!

They felt SO HAPPY to be a part of the festival!

The poor lady finally gave up 

and had another table brought out

for her family!

After the paella,
out came a wheelbarrow with lamb stew.

Then bread.

Then wine..

and more wine..

and more wine...

We were one happy group of Pilgrims!

When we thought we were so full

we couldn't eat another bite,

out came the desserts!

Beautiful!

All you could eat!

Dessert was followed by more wine.

Then they handed out cigars to the men,

and cigarettes to the women.

And of course.. more WINE!

And then...

the band began to play!

The music was traditional folk music

of the region.

Oom-pah sort of music,

some might call it old fashioned,

but it was wonderful

and made us all feel light-hearted

(or it could have been the wine?)

As soon as the music began,

an older woman grabbed a broom,

and began to dance,

pumping the broom up and down in the air.

All the women of village got up to follow her -

They had obviously done this before! 

Then up jumped the men.

Soon, all the women were on one end,

and the men were on another,

and there was a sort of "chase" dance going on.

The women would pretend to nag the men,

and chase them into their corner,

then turn and run away,

the men chasing the them back 

to THEIR corner.

As they chased, they sang a song.

The words were in Spanish,

and I didn't understand them,

but the meaning of the dance

was clear enough!

The men couldn't win,

because the lady with the broom 

would shoo them away,

hitting them on the behind and head!

There was a lot of laughing,

a few risque comments,

and a good time to be had by all!

 We drank and danced,

 and drank and talked,

 and drank and toasted,

Edeltraut, Enrique, Joe, I, and our other fellow pilgrims,

drank, 

danced, 

and celebrated

 until we couldn't drink or dance another step!

And then, at midnight, 

the church bell began to ring.

As if by magic,

the music stopped.

People picked up their tables,

and quickly cleaned up the trash.

By the time the bell tolled 12,

the square was quiet and dark,

and empty.

It was if nothing had happened there.

We weary pilgrims picked up our table 

and wove back to our refugio,

satiated and happy under the Camino stars!

We slept well, 

Santiago protecting our sleeping place.

And at dawn,

we arose to coffee and bread,

still giddy from the night before.

I blessed the town as I walked away,

for it's sweet acceptance and hospitality.

It was just another Camino miracle,

to get so drunk on new wine

and awaken completely refreshed.

Thank you, Azofra,

for a wonderful memory!

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino