Burgos was founded in 884.
It has played a significant political and military role
in Spanish history ever since.
Romans fortified the hill
overlooking the Arlanzón River.
For a lot of great history on Burgos, see Linda Kay Davidson’s book The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago.
It has played a significant political and military role
in Spanish history ever since.
Romans fortified the hill
overlooking the Arlanzón River.
For a lot of great history on Burgos, see Linda Kay Davidson’s book The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago.
El Cid is famous in Burgos.
Spain’s medieval epic, the Poema de Mío Cid tells how Cid raised money to provision his army by borrowing from Burgos’s Jewish moneylenders.
He then tricked them by offering
a chest full of stones as security
while requiring their oath
not to look into the chest for a year!
Would you agree???
Well, the Jews provided the gold,
which Cid never repaid.
He later rode into Burgos to pray at the Cathedral, before crossing the river to camp.
Maybe he was praying for forgiveness...
Spain’s medieval epic, the Poema de Mío Cid tells how Cid raised money to provision his army by borrowing from Burgos’s Jewish moneylenders.
He then tricked them by offering
a chest full of stones as security
while requiring their oath
not to look into the chest for a year!
Would you agree???
Well, the Jews provided the gold,
which Cid never repaid.
He later rode into Burgos to pray at the Cathedral, before crossing the river to camp.
Maybe he was praying for forgiveness...
Burgos grew very wealthy from the wool trade.
The wool from merino sheep
have a very soft, fine, crimped staple.
It makes lovely soft wool fabric.
Burgos' wool wealth
financed much of the great art and architecture
seen in the city today.
The wool from merino sheep
have a very soft, fine, crimped staple.
It makes lovely soft wool fabric.
Burgos' wool wealth
financed much of the great art and architecture
seen in the city today.
No Spanish town had more pilgrim hospices
than Burgos.
In the late 15th century, there were 32.
Some were founded by royalty,
some by private citizens,
some by merchant guilds,
and some by religious and military orders.
than Burgos.
In the late 15th century, there were 32.
Some were founded by royalty,
some by private citizens,
some by merchant guilds,
and some by religious and military orders.
Because of its strategic location
on the Camino de Santiago
and the main Madrid-France highway,
Burgos got (and still gets) its fair share of tourists.
on the Camino de Santiago
and the main Madrid-France highway,
Burgos got (and still gets) its fair share of tourists.
Burgos is not a town to rush through.
It contains a staggering wealth of art,
more than any other city along the road.
It’s worth staying an extra day
to see the wonders offered.
Here is a list of some things to see while in Burgos:
It contains a staggering wealth of art,
more than any other city along the road.
It’s worth staying an extra day
to see the wonders offered.
Here is a list of some things to see while in Burgos:
The Cathedral,
founded in 1221 by Bishop Maruicio
under Fernando III.
This is Spain’s third-largest cathedral.
The ground plan is a Latin cross.
It was constructed in several stages
over 3 centuries and involved
many of the greatest artists and architects in Europe.
The style is almost completely Gothic.
Plan on spending anywhere from 2 to 6 hours to see completely.
It is chock full of beauty!
Here are a few photos I took in the Cathedral:
Davidson’s book has several pages
dedicated to the art contained in this cathedral.
 |
| Retablo at Iglesia de San Nicolás Bari |
contains a superb altarpiece
by Simon of Cologne (1505)
The carvings depict scenes
from the life of St. Nicholas.
This church was a showpiece of the merchant guilds.
 |
| Arco de Fernán González |
is a Renaissance commemorative arch (1592)
 |
| Photo by R.S. Antonio |
over the ruins of a Roman fortification.
The Iglesia de San Esteban has a museum
displaying 18 retablos
from the 15th through the 18th century
collected from churches
in the province of Burgos.
Iglesia de Santa Agueda
displaying 18 retablos
from the 15th through the 18th century
collected from churches
in the province of Burgos.
 |
| Old postcard of Arco de San Esteban in Burgos; Arco de San Esteban: 12th Century entrance showing Mudéjar characteristics. |
 |
| Santa Agueda (Agatha) carries her breasts on a plate |
This is where El Cid made King Alfonso VI
swear he played no part
in the murder of his Elder brother, King Sancho II.
Casa de Miranda and Archaeological Museum
swear he played no part
in the murder of his Elder brother, King Sancho II.
 |
| Casa de Miranda |
Museu de Burgos has finds from the Roman city of Clunia
Arco de Santa María
This was the principal gate of the city
in the 14th Century.
It is carved with statues of various local personalities
This was the principal gate of the city
in the 14th Century.
It is carved with statues of various local personalities
Statue of El Cid
Named for his heroism,
El Cid was a charismatic man of great courage.
The tombs of El Cid and his wife
are in Burgos Cathedral.
Named for his heroism,
El Cid was a charismatic man of great courage.
The tombs of El Cid and his wife
are in Burgos Cathedral.
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A 15th century palace with a Franciscan cord motif carved over the portal. This is the spot where the Catholic Monarchs welcomed Columbus on his return in 1497 from his second voyage to the Americas.
Cartuja de Miraflores is a Carthusian monastery founded during the 15th century.
The church includes tombs
containing Juan II and Isabel of Portugal
(the parents of Isabel the Catholic)
and her brother, Prince Alfonso.
Also here is the multicolored altarpiece
by Gil de Siloé,
allegedly gilded with the first gold brought to Spain from the New World.
containing Juan II and Isabel of Portugal
(the parents of Isabel the Catholic)
and her brother, Prince Alfonso.
Also here is the multicolored altarpiece
by Gil de Siloé,
allegedly gilded with the first gold brought to Spain from the New World.
Monasterio de las Huelgas – Access by guided tour only.
A rural palace given over to a convent
by Alfonso VIII.
His goal, opposite of the Cistercian ideal,
was to create the world’s most sumptuous convent,
an opulent refuge for widowed nobility.
It contains the Museo de Ricas Telas,
a textile museum containing ancient fabrics from the convent’s many royal tombs.
The Gothic cloister of San Fernando
is decorated with Moorish designs
of peacocks and stars.
Sorrowful Mother in Iglesia de San Gil Abad
A rural palace given over to a convent
by Alfonso VIII.
His goal, opposite of the Cistercian ideal,
was to create the world’s most sumptuous convent,
an opulent refuge for widowed nobility.
It contains the Museo de Ricas Telas,
a textile museum containing ancient fabrics from the convent’s many royal tombs.
The Gothic cloister of San Fernando
is decorated with Moorish designs
of peacocks and stars.
Iglesia de San Lorenzo has a beautiful Baroque ceiling.
Paseo de la Isla – a park created to reclaim the Arlanzón riverbank.
If you have time, be sure to take the bus that carries you from the archaeological museum
to the caves of the Sierra de Atapuerca.
These caves contain a rich fossil record
of the earliest human beings in Europe,
of the earliest human beings in Europe,
from nearly one million years ago
and extending up to the Common Era.
and extending up to the Common Era.
They represent an exceptional reserve of data,
the scientific study of which provides
priceless information
priceless information
about the appearance and the way of life
of these remote human ancestors.
of these remote human ancestors.
As you can see,
Burgos is rich in culture and history.
Burgos is rich in culture and history.
Do yourself a favor and take a rest day here.
There are many inexpensive hostals and pensiones;
find one near the old town,
and enjoy the local cuisine from the wild fruit plates served at El Morito
to the Patatas Bravas served in almost every bar
to the morcilla (blood sausage),
famous in Burgos
There are strange looking bars like Meson El Cid
and lovely dining rooms like this one at Hotel Ciudad
Try some churros y chocolate
which is more like a thick pudding
Or buy a pastry from one of the many wonderful pasty shops
Oh, and see the Cola Cao
in the yellow packet above?
That is instant hot chocolate
and you can get it everywhere.
For those who don't drink coffee,
it's a great alternative.
As is the fresh squeezed orange juice
you find in every restaurant.
you find in every restaurant.
Just ask for zumo naranja!
Oh yes, I almost forgot.
Don't forget to have your photo taken
with the Naked Pilgrim!
Almost every Pilgrim has a photo of this fellow.
I think that's enough for today.
Remember...
BURGOS!
Buen Camino!
Annie
See my website at
for more information about
Guided Walks on the Pilgrimage Trails of Europe
and
Walking the Camino Santiago
Guided Walks on the Pilgrimage Trails of Europe
and
Walking the Camino Santiago
You did a good job again Annie!
ReplyDeleteI didn't mention you can pick up a shuttle from the Archaeological museum to Atapuerca, which is the site of the oldest human remains found anywhere. So much to see in Burgos!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the helpful hints of what not to miss in Burgos. It's my camino resume point in 2 weeks. How did I miss Naked Pilgrim and the pastry shops last time?
ReplyDeleteI recently discovered the Burgos museum, which is on the same street as the bus station. This small museum is fascinating and has historical items from the city's past. The cost is minimal; I think I paid around €3 to get in and it was well worth a visit.
ReplyDeleteI loved the Burgos museum. Another good museum and free is the Military museum of Burgos on Plaza de Alonso-Martínez. It's near the Hotel Norte y Londres. Also found a good organic grocer a block or two NE of the museum at Calle de Antonio Valdes y Bazan, 1.
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