Irache

Photo from internet

One of the stops 

that every well-educated pilgrim 

makes along the Camino is at 

the Monastery of Irache, 

with its fountain of wine, 

just past Estella. 

The Benedictine Monastery 

was first documented in 958 

and the first pilgrim hospice in Navara 

was built here in 1052 

by King Garcia del de Nájera.  

During the years 10-56-1098, 

San Veremundo was the Abbot here, 

after being chosen to succeed his uncle.  

Veremundo built Irache 

into one of the richest and strongest abbeys

 in Navarra. 

He was beloved by the poor, 

being very charitable.  

He would often take them food 

concealed under his habit.  

When his brothers reproached him, 

he would lift his habit 

and roses or wood chips would fall out 

instead of bread. 

The beggars would use the wood chips 

to warm themselves. 

It was also said that wine gushed 

from a fountain near Irache 

to serve the pilgrims.  

Once, a group of pilgrims 

were received by Veremundo. 

When he asked where they had come from, 

and what they had seen, 

they had no answer. 

They hadn't noticed anything.  

Veremundo was greatly disturbed 

by this indifference to the beauty of God's creation and with an exclamation from him, 

the pilgrims became windmills, 

sentenced to continuously rotate 

without getting anywhere 

and without a change of view! 

After his death,

Veremundo's remains were kept in a silver urn, 

which disappeared during the War of Independence.

You can see a nice statue of Veremundo 

outside the church in Villatuerta.

Joe and I attended Mass here one Sunday.

It was a lovely Mass and is recommended.

Statue of San Veremundo at Iglesia de la Asunción in Villatuerta

In the late 11th century, 

some Benadictine monks 

felt the Order had gone soft.

They began a period of reformation. 

In 1098, Robert of Champagne 

founded the first Cistercian abbey 

south of Dijon 

and the Cistercian order 

rapidly became the most potent monastic force 

in Europe. 

They began in great poverty but later 

went on to become very rich and powerful, 

owning entire villages, castles, and churches, accepting oaths of fealty 

and assuming the role of judgments. 

This corruption led to investigation 

and changes by the Mother Church.

Cistercian Monk Dormitory

The monastery entered a period of decline 

from the 13th to the 15th centuries.  

In 1522, another Benedictine community flourished.  A school was established and transferred 

to Irache in 1605, 

where it granted degrees in philosophy, canon, law, letters, medicine, and theology 

until the early 19th century.

During the Carlist Wars, Irache was a hospital. 

In 2000, it housed 

a community of Padres Esculapios.

The exterior of the building 

is pre-12th century Romanesque construction.  

There are many capitals and corbels 

cautioning against the excesses of sin. 

A Byzantine-style lantern tower 

is related to lantern towers 

in Salamanca, Toro, and Zamora. 

The northern Puerta de San Pedro 

(12th century) on the north side 

has fantastic animals, harpies, and a centaur.  

The western entrance is 13th century

 late Romanesque and is simple, 

with finely stylized floral capitals.

The church is laid out in the shape of a Latin cross with three semicircular apses. 

The sacristy is 16th century 

and the chapter house with its ribbed vault 

dates from the beginning of the 17th century.

For centuries, it was the home 

of the image of Our Lady of Iratxe (12th Century).

The statue now resides
in the church of Dicastillo, south of Ayegui.

Most famous is the Bodegas Irache fountain. 

Every pilgrim 

who does any homework on the Camino 

has heard of the fountain 

which gives water from one spout and wine from another.  

The purpose of the fountain

 is to satiate the thirst 

and also give cheer to the pilgrims.  

The fountain belongs 

to the Bodegas Irache Winery, 

which sits next to the Monastery.

The spigots are clearly marked Vino and Agua 

Joe filling his bottle 2006

It is customary for pilgrims 

to fill bottles with wine 

to carry on their journey, 

or to use their shell to take a drink from the fountain.

A great use for the shell.

(Please do not put your mouth on the spigot. 

Unbelievably, I've seen this done.)

Is the wine good?

Well... it's good enough to get you 

to your next stop!

Don't miss this important Pilgrim legend.

And don't forget your empty bottle!

Buen Camino!

Annie

2015 - Autumn

Inside the office of the Irache Monastery

* * *

Sorry these few postings are a bit out of order.
You will reach Estella before you reach Irache

Note:  Much of the information in these blogs comes from The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago by David Gitlitz and Linda Davidson. It is a wonderful book to have if you are interested in the history of the villages along the Camino.