Sunday, September 22, 2019

The Movie "The Way"




Joe sent me a note today saying 
2021 is the 10 year anniversary 
of the movie The Way coming out. 

Ten years since Joe and I, 
while waiting one rainy afternoon,
with maybe only 3 other pilgrims
 in the Pilgrim office in Santiago, 
were invited to be extras in the film. 

We had days to spare. 
Nothing else to do.
We looked at each other and said, "Why not?!"

Ten years. 
It has just flown by, 
but my, what changes we have seen!

This movie did so much 
to popularize the Camino.
Before it, 
who had heard of 
the Camino de Santiago,
unless they were Catholic?
Joe knew of it,
but he had a Jesuit education.
He is the one who told me about it,
when my specialist prescribed
long-distance walking
for my MCS.

While on the Camino,
we had seen the crew filming, 
as we walked through Torres del Rio. 
We were so weary from walking,
we didn't ask questions.
And now, here we were...
extras in a movie 
with Martin Sheen and Emelio Estevez!


I remember HOURS in the drizzle 
working on scenes 
of the trio walking up the Cathedral steps.

The crew provided our lunch,
and had us sign releases.
We were promised €2 as pay.
I still have not received my check!

Soon we moved into the Cathedral 
and spent more time 
in the swinging botafumeiro scene. 
There were times the cameras 
were right in our faces.

We had not been told the story 
and so didn't know 
until we SAW the movie 
why Emelio Estevez was dressed as a priest 
swinging the censor! 

When the movie came out,
we watched it excitedly, 
hoping to see ourselves. 
But... where were we? 

We played it again, 
really squinting during the scenes 
we knew we were in. 
Where were we?

Then we finally played it frame by frame 
:::laughing:: 
and there was tall Joe 
in his black beret
with me hidden behind him, 
just a piece of me sticking out! 

Hahaha!
So much for being famous! 

Well, it was fun anyway. 
Martin Sheen 
was a lovely open and friendly man.
He introduced us to his son,
also very gracious
and down to earth. 
Martin spent a LOT of time signing autographs
and talking to people. 
Emelio would have to say, 
"Dad! Time to WORK!" 

There are some days, I admit, 
I wish they'd never made the movie. 

When I see blocks and blocks of people
in line for the Compostela, for instance.
When I run into people who really are not there
 for a spiritual experience, 
but just because it's a fad,
or a friend told them
it was a cheap vacation. 
When I run into people 
who are unkind, un-pilgrim-like, 
un-(fill in the blank) in my judgmental mind. 

I often feel frustrated 
when someone comes out 
with yet ANOTHER book,
or ANOTHER film, 
or ANOTHER You Tube video. 

Some days I feel I'm drowning 
in Camino minutia. 
I want to scream "STOP!!!" 

I think, 
"Wouldn't it be nice if we could return 
to the quiet days of the Camino? 
When you met only 10 pilgrims all day? 
When you cooked together, ate together, 
remembered each other's faces and names? 
When we were all there for the magic? 
For the spiritual experience 
of change or of finding answers?" 

And then I remember, 
the Camino still holds magic,
enough magic for all who walk it.

It changes even those 
who do not go there seeking change. 

You cannot walk it without changing.

It's impossible.

I know I change each time I walk it.
I like to think I get better
at being human.
I see parts of my self I need to correct.
I feel feelings I need to deal with.
I find ways I can improve.
I learn more and more about myself 
and my relationship with others.

For this reason, I continue to take small groups
of people who aren't quite ready
for whatever reason
to walk on their own.
For this reason,
I've devoted much of my time 
to helping people on 
The Way,
on THEIR Way.

So thank you Martin Sheen and Emelio Estevez
for bringing The Way to the people.

What a difference that one movie 
has made 
for all of those 
tiny villages in Spain
and for so many pilgrims,
past, present, and future!

Ten years ago
we were 5 pilgrims
waiting to get our Compostela.
Who could have predicted 
there would be 1450 pilgrims
waiting in blocks-long lines
to get their Compostela
just 10 short years later.

Who  knew!?

Buen Camino!
Annie

Pilgrims waiting for their Compostela, September 2019
Photo by Francesco Cocco
PS:
Here is some background on the movie
from Wiki
that Joe just sent me.



Wednesday, September 18, 2019

What are Kilometers?


If you are "math-minded" 
this photo may help you.

Unfortunately, I am NOT "math-minded" 
and I can't remember this to save my life!

So if you are like me,
my suggestion is this,
begin THINKING in kilometers.
now, before you get to Europe.

How?

During training, download an app
that allows you to use kilometers.
Your Fitbit allows you to make that distinction.
I use my Fitbit but the electromagnetic waves
make my arm hurt (yeah, I'm weird)
so usually, I use the app called
MAP MY WALK
which is free,
on my iPhone.


I go to settings,
and set the counter to kilometers 
instead of miles.
A little voice comes on and tells me
each time I walk another kilometer 
and how long it's taken me.

This is helpful when trying to judge
how long it will take you to walk a stage,
like one of 24 kilometers, for instance.
I know it takes me 12 minutes 
to walk one kilometer,
so if I multiply 24 by 12,
that will give me 288 minutes.
Divide that by 60 (minutes in an hour)
and I now know it will take me at least
4.8 hours to walk the 24 kilometers.
That is not counting rest and food stops.

If I need to be in a village by 2pm
and it's 24 kilometers away,
I know I better get out of bed
and on the trail by 6 or 7 am.
No need to leave earlier than that!

 Fitbit has the same type of program,
and you can change it to count kilometers
instead of miles.

So don't let "kilometers' scare you.
It's easy peasy if you start thinking in kilometers now
during your training.
You'll be surprised how much it will help.


And please,
don't train too hard.
The Camino is a TREK,
not a mountain climbing expedition.
You should be able to CASUALLY walk
the distances
with plenty of rest stops between.
There are bars and places to sit and enjoy the countryside
all along The Way.
Don't rush.
Go slow.

Start of the first couple of days doing HALF-stages,
and slowly increase your distance.
Do not attempt to walk 
from SJPP to Roncesvalles the first day
unless you are in EXCELLENT condition.
Many people's Camino ends 
after that long hard stage.

Don't be silly.

Take your time
and have a BUEN CAMINO!

Love,
Annie

Getting LOST from LEON


Today, a peregrina posted 
that she got lost leaving Leon. 
Here is what she said:

On Monday morning, I left Leon at 0600. My mates were still sleeping but as I figured the street lighting would see me through til daylight, I was on my way. I was not aware at all that there are 2 forks in the path that need attention. I was focused on the yellow arrows all the way. By 1030, I was not seeing any anticipated coffee stops, I seemed to be going further into a mountain, away from civilization, more remote, not seeing any perigrinos, and noticing villages from afar (getting further away). I reluctantly decided to turn back, I had food, running out of water but was trying not to panic. I must have walked at least 10-15 km straight up. I began meeting people who explained I needed to go back to Leon as I somehow got on the San Sebastián Camino route. I got to the outskirts of Leon, composed myself, got a bus to the city, then a rural bus to San Martin del Camino where my bag was going. I was welcomed by a new group that helped me cry, tell my story, enjoy a community meal and move forward the next day. The purpose of this post is to warn people who don’t know (as I didn’t) that there are other Camino routes out of Leon - not just Camino Frances. Am presently in Rabanal del Camino and looking forward to Gregorian Chant tonight!

I actually was not aware of this split, 
so here is the information you need:


As you leave Leon, there is a split, 
right at the parador San Marcos. 
There is a pilgrim statue in front displaying options. 

To walk the Camino Francés, face the Parador, and turn left and walk on the bridge over the river.

To walk the Camino Salvador (beautiful but not as supported) you do not cross the river, but continue on the side of the parador and along the river.

More about leaving Leon...

I often don't walk 
through the industrial section of the city 
as I leave. 


I walk straight up the Av. Ordoño, 
which becomes Av. Palencia 
as though I was going 
to the train or bus station. 

Right after I cross the river, 
across from the Renfe station 
is a city bus stop on the right. 
I wait there for the city bus 
going to Virgen del Camino. 



I get off in Virgen del Camino, 
find breakfast and coffee,
and begin walking.

Pay attention 
when you get to the San Froilan Church. 
You can't miss it. 
It will be on the right and is very unusual.


There at the corner, 
you will CROSS THE STREET to the LEFT, 
and follow the yellow arrows 
to the RIGHT, up an alleyway, 
taking the alternative route 
to Villar de Mazarife. 

To me, 
this is a much more pleasant road, 
avoiding all that highway walking. 


Villar de Mazarife has several lovely albergues, including Albergue Jesus. 

Here is a link to a blog post 
with photos about that section:



Monday, September 16, 2019

Pharmacies on Call and If You Get the Flu



The first thing to notice is that in Spain, 
the Pharmacy is called a Farmacia 
and will display a BIG GREEN CROSS.



In Spain there is a term you will want to learn.
It is Farmacia de Guardia 
and it means 
Pharmacy on call.

This is regulated by the local Pharmacy authorities 
and what it means is this. 
There will ALWAYS be a Pharmacy 
open in every area. 
Some will be open until midnight.
Some will be open 24 hours, 
especially in larger cities.

When I say "in every area" 
bear in mind you are walking 
what would be considered short distances
 if you were in an automobile, 
so for instance, 
you may have to taxi ahead an entire stage 
to find an open Farmacia. 
But if it is an emergency, 
you will find one open 'in the area."



Pharmacists in Spain 
are allowed to prescribe many medications 
that would require a doctor's prescription in the USA.  
This means you can walk into any Farmacia, 
tell them or show them your problem, 
and they will prescribe what you need, 
whether it is for the flu, a cold, bedbug bites,
 or an injury.

On one of our first Caminos, 
Joe had a 2d degree burn on his leg. 
We walked into a Farmacia. 
The pharmacist sat him in a chair, 
washed the wound and dressed it, 
and gave him a tube of antibiotics. 
The cost was €6.

With so many pilgrims on the Camino these days,
you may not get that personalized treatment,
but you will find help.

If you have prescription medication that you require,
 please be sure to take 
the GENERIC name for the prescription 
in case you lose it or run out. 
Even better would be a written prescription 
from your doctor.  
You should not have any problems 
filling a prescription 
with one of these, 
unless it is for an opiate, 
in which case there will be a doctor 
in almost every larger town 
who can help you.

Fluimucil Complex

In case you get a cold or flu, 
let me tell you about a miracle drug
NOTE:  This works for ME.
You must be sure it does not conflict 
with any medications
you are already taking so be sure
to let the pharmacist know.

I always carry in my pack while in Spain.
 In fact, it works so good
 I bring boxes of it back with me each year
 because it is not available in the USA.  
It is called Fluimucil Complex.  
Here is a photo. 

FLUIMUCIL COMPLEX

The one above is a newer package 
and even though the "use before" date 
is 6/2018 on the lower one, 
I still use them and they work great.

This is a fizzy tablet. 
Drop it into water and let it dissolve, 
then drink.
I usually just use about 1/4 cup of water.

This magic combination of Paracetamol 
and Acetylcysteine 
allows me to keep walking the Camino 
if I get a cold or flu. 
It is the BEST thing since apple pie, in my opinion.    
It clears my sinuses, clears my head, 
and clears my lungs without making me sleepy. 
The first thing I do each Camino in Pamplona 
is pick up a box of this, "just in case."  
I never walk without it. 
It's that good.

Keep this photo on your phone 
and show it to the pharmacist
and insist on this particular one,
 because there are other types that look like this, 
but don't do the job. 

This one below is ONLY for lungs.
It is helpful for me, 
as I tend to get congestion in the lungs 
when I get a cold or flu. 
It is a powder. 
I pour it into 1/4 cup of warm water, 
stir, and drink it down. 
It will loosen phlegm and help me cough up the crud.

FLUMIL 200 mg

Do not let them sell you any other type 
of Fluimucil or Flumil.
There is another effervescent tablet 
called Fluimucil Forte.
It doesn't work for me.
Here is a photo of it.


There is also a liquid, that for me, does not work.

In the Farmacia, 
you can also buy Compeed 
and other blister helps,
Volteron, which is a non-steroidal 
anti-inflammatory cream,
helpful for sore muscles
and unavailable in the USA without prescription,
Alcohol Romero,
which is Alchol with Rosemary in it,
and wonderful for massaging sore legs and muscles.

You can find shoe inserts,
elastic bandages and compression socks,
a Spanish KT tape,
shampoos and body washes,
awesome organic makeups,
and a host of other products.
It's really worth a visit,
especially in the larger cities.
But I caution you not to weigh down
your pack until you arrive in Santiago,
where you will find plenty of Farmacias
and other shops
full of wonderful products
to take back home. 



Again, I suggest you copy the photo 
of Fluimucil Complex
onto your phone
just in case.
It could save your Camino.

I hope you don't need it!
I hope you stay healthy 
and have no problems at all.
But this info might be helpful.

Buen Camino!
Annie

***

NOTE:  I am not suggesting you take any drugs at all.
I'm simply telling you what works for me
You must do your own research
and be sure the meds you pick up in Spain
do not conflict with any you may be taking.


If you would like to walk with a small group,
consider Anniewalkers.
Our next available trip will be Holy Year 2022.
More information at 






Sunday, September 15, 2019

A Pilgrim is Grateful . . .



The Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage, 
and nearly every Spanish person I've spoken to 
feels that way. 


Though some folks may argue 
the Camino was there
long before the Christians embraced it,
we are not in the past.

We are in the present.

And today, 
the Way is meant to be a way of penance

Not easy.

Not comfortable.

In other words, you are expected to suffer.


Pilgrimage: A religious journey; a holy expedition

Penance:  Voluntary punishment, self-inflicted, as an outward expression of repentance for having done wrong.

Whether you are Catholic or not,
whether you believe in God or not,
the fact is
you are walking a pilgrimage,
and very little convenience, 
as well as EVERY little convenience,
is to be thought of as a blessing.

Every inconvenience
is to be expected.

So, if you find there are no shower curtains 
on the doors,
or if the food is not good,
or costs too much,
or if you get blisters, shin splints, a sore back,
or even bedbugs,
don't be surprised.

Every challenge is a test 
of your fortitude,
and your gratitude.

Be grateful for a roof over your head at night,
for a bed to sleep on,
or even a nice mat on the floor!

Be grateful for a toilet in a bar,
and buy something to show your gratitude.

Be grateful for the stale bread and jam 
in the sleepy morning,
and the cold coffee 
that will give your body the energy to walk.

Be grateful for the rising sun,
the glorious colors reflected on the water,
the smell of the dew,
the rushing brooks,
the stork nests high above you,
the morning songbirds,
and the croaking frogs.

Be grateful for the lack of electric outlets 
to plug in your distracting devices,
as it will give you the opportunity 
to connect with fellow human beings,
something we've forgotten.

In fact, be grateful for no electricity at all
at sacred places like San Anton
or San Nicholas,
where you get the best meal,
the best view of the Milky Way,
and the best night's sleep
you've had in years.

Be grateful for the comfort of
the snoring pilgrim in the bed next to yours.

Be very grateful for a shower, 
to wash off the sweat and the dust of the day,
and be grateful whether the water 
is hot or cold,
and whether or not there is a curtain.

Be grateful for cool, fresh spring water to drink
from the fountains in every village.

Be grateful for the amazing support
you will receive
all along The Way,
for the bars where you can get a cold drink
and a free tapa to sustain you,
for the local people
who have so much patience with you,
who allow you to dirty their countryside
with your used toilet paper,
to leave graffiti on their sacred rocks,
and national treasures,
who will point the direction when you are lost,
who will feed you when you are hungry,
who will dress your wounds when you are injured,
and give you cold water when you are thirsty.

Be grateful you have legs to walk,
feet to carry you,
shoes on your feet,
and be especially grateful 
when you notice some walk The Way
barefoot and silent

Be grateful for ears to hear 
the morning choir 
that travels around and sings to the pilgrims
in the springtime,
their voices sweet and pure,
the harmonies lifting your soul.

Be grateful for a nose to smell the rain, 
that same rain that is making the trail so muddy,
and to smell the sweat of that pilgrim next to you.

Be grateful for eyes to see 
the beauty of the landscape,
much unchanged for hundreds of years,
the whitewashed buildings,
the crumbling buildings,
the restored buildings,
the rolling velvet hills,
the red fields of poppies,
the waving oceans of wheat,
and the twinkle in the eyes
of the abuelas who offer you 
their ripe cerezas and figs.

Be grateful for the grouchy priest
who refuses to give you a blanket when it is cold
because he believes you still have not
suffered enough!

Be grateful for the nun
who stamps your credential,
and sings you songs of blessing
as you sit around with other wanderers
and feel true joy
for maybe the first time you can remember.

Be grateful for the pilgrim plates
that feel so redundant after the first week,
the plates of pasta,
the jars of wine,
the baskets of bread,
the ensaladas covered in fresh tuna.

Be grateful for the Pilgrim Blessing
you receive at Roncesvalles
 or Viana 
or Tosantos
and even if you are not Catholic,
be grateful 
and be touched by the sincerity
of those wishing you so much goodness.

Be grateful for a bar of soap to wash your clothes,
and for clean underwear,
for a line to hang your clothes in the sunshine,
or inside if it's raining.

Be grateful for those who entertain us
with their guitars, their drums, their didgeridoos,
and their voices,
even singing off-key as they walk.

Be grateful for family style dinners,
nearly extinct in our busy modern world.

Be grateful for no wifi,
and ANOTHER chance to bury your iPhone
in your pocket,
and another few moments of 
face to face conversation 
with a fellow human being.

Be grateful for the smell of cow shit!
It is the reason for the  
luscious café con leche you drink each morning,
and the beefsteak on your plate at night.

Be grateful for the tinkling of bells in the fog,
and for the herds of sheep that block your path,
for they provide the cheese in your pack.

Be grateful even for the flies,
because they clear the path of the manure over time.

Be grateful for those blisters on your heel.
They are your body telling you to take better care
of your feet, and not to take them for granted.

Be grateful for the selflessness shown
by a young pilgrim 
offering the bottom bunk 
to an elder with grey hair
and aching bones.

Be grateful for the sun on your back,
the rain on your face,
the wind that buffets you,
the snow that forces you inside
to sit around a warm fire
and again enjoy the company 
of new-found friends.

Be grateful for the taxis and buses
that will carry you from one village to the next
when you have walked all day
only to find a sign on the door saying, "Completo!"

Be grateful for the kind hospitalera
who will put her arms around you
and comfort you
when tears of exhaustion 
overtake you, 
or the pharmacist
who will wash and dress your wounds,
or the pilgrim who will massage and care 
for your weary, blistered feet.

Be grateful for a doorway you can sleep in,
the doorway of a church,
an abandoned building,
a park bench...

Be grateful for your heavy mochila,
and the lesson to lighten your burden
not only on the Camino,
but in life.

Be grateful that you are learning 
what is REALLY important
and what is not.

And lastly,
be grateful for those who complain...
about the lack,
about their needs being unmet,
about the dirty sheets,
and no blankets,
and bedbugs,
and the food not being cooked their way,
about having to wait in line,
having to rush for a bed,
having to share bathrooms,
no mirror,
no towels,
no pillow,
no shower curtain,
about their fellow pilgrims,
about the guy not carrying his backpack,
or the girl jabbering on her phone,
or the old people walking too slow,
or the rocky path,
the muddy path,
the fog, 
the fire crackers at night,
the borachos downstairs,
the lack of porta potties on the path,
the slow service,
the lack of English (in a Spanish speaking country)
the lack of nut-free, lacto-free, gluten-free, meat free meals,
open windows in the albergue,
closed windows in the albergue,
having to climb up on a bunkbed,
about another book being written,
or another video being made,
or the crowds,
or no bed tonight,
or (fill in the blank).

Be grateful you can smile at them,
let their complaints roll off your back,
count your blessings,
and continue on The Way
with a song in your head
and gratitude in your heart.

Be grateful.

Love Annie