Veering Off to the Camino Invierno

Today, I have decided that I will veer off from Ponferrada 

to the Camino Invierno. 

I have walked from Sarria to Santiago many, many times and this will give me the opportunity to walk a new trail, see some new sights, including the gorgeous Las Medulas, and still arrive in Santiago as scheduled.

Just two more sleeps until I leave for Vancouver, Washington, where I'll spend a couple of days with my youngest son. We're going to attend the Pacific Crest Trail Days event in Cascade Locks. I have a hotel near the airport Monday night and leave for Madrid Tuesday morning.

I finally figured out (I think) how to get my Pacer Poles to Madrid. I ordered a yoga mat carrying case from Amazon. I'll wrap the poles in bubble wrap, put them in that case, and check it. Keeping my fingers crossed it will make it safely. I may tuck in my sun umbrella as well.

Getting excited!

Love,

Annie

See the Difference?

Osprey Mira 34L on the left and Arcteryx Brize 32L on the right.

Ok, so this photo is embarrassing because I'm in horrible shape since my illness - but here is the difference between the Osprey Mira 34L pack and my Arcteryx Brize 32L pack.  

The Brize just fits better and feels better. 

Packing For My 2026 Slow Camino

I am in the last stages of planning for 

my 2026 Slow Camino.

I've been working on deciding 

which pack I'll take. 

Day before yesterday 

I filled my 32L Brize pack for my daily walk.

It weighs 13 pounds with water. 

It was "ok" but a little uncomfortable on my shoulders. 

I actually like this pack best 

because of how easy it is to pack.

It's a top-loading pack 

so everything just stuffs down inside.

Also it only opens to the neck 

so it's great to keep pickpockets at bay.
It's a very sleek pack.

Yesterday I filled my 

30L Gregory Juno hydration pack.

 I suspected it may be a bit more comfortable.  

It rides more on the hips 

than on the shoulders.
But it was a pain in the butt for me to pack 

because it opens on the face 

It's also 2L smaller 

and that does make a difference.
I just am taking too many clothes for that pack.
I have to work to stuff everything in.
After fiddling with it,

I decided it was not a contender.
I may just sell that pack.
It's an awesome pack with hydration

and I've never carried it.
Maybe when I get back it'll go on Ebay.

Yesterday I hopped over to REI and picked up 
a 34L Osprey Mira pack.
Lovely pack, 

but when I tried carrying it full today
 two very hard edges at the bottom frame
dug into my hips.
So that pack is getting returned today.

I think I've decided I'll carry 
the Arcteryx Brize.

Generally I like a smaller pack
but since I'm starting in August

and finishing the end of October

I'll be walking in HOT weather

as well as cold.
So I need to take more clothes

than usual.

In the meantime, 

this is what I'm packing.
I use packing cubes - they're old but still work great

and really help me stay organized.

As I said, I'm carrying more 

than I normally would take
because I'm starting in HOT weather 
and ending in COLD weather,

so I need to be able to layer my clothes.

This is what everything looks like 

when it's loaded into the cubes:

 I'll go through each cube to show you what I'm bringing
for this 68 day trip.

First is my NatureHike Ultralight down sleeping bag and pillow. I love this little sleeping bag.
I cut off the zipper and sewed up the bottom edge

to make a foot box, so 

it's more like a down quilt.
Warm and featherweight.

In the largest cube are my daily clothes:

3 pair panties, 2 socks,
grey sun hat, grey featherweight sun hoodie, teal featherweight sleeveless shirt for sleeping, red merino wool short sleeve, black silk wool long sleeve, 

a pair of shorts and my Macabi skirt.
I stuffed two extra masks in just in case.

In the next cube are my cold/hot weather clothes.
Blue ALTUS poncho (vacuum sealed for travel),

pink neck cooler (you soak it in water then wear),
Marmot lightweight jacket,
fleece hat, black merino buff
(I've taken out the pink/blue scarf)

Next is my laundry/bath cube:
Bath soap, laundry soap (fels naptha),
large safety pins for drying clothes, 
shampoo, clothes line

The green bag holds my first aid and bathroom things:
Shoe horn and eyebrow pencil
 (I have no eyebrows - thanks to cancer),
KT tape, Electrolyte drops, Fluimucil,
toe gel tubes and washcloth pills,

lambs wool, q-tips, razor, vicks, deodorant, dental floss,
Prep H, and a tiny pill carrier holding ibuprofen, Advil PM, a muscle relaxer, and Gaviscon. If I need more, there are pharmacies in pretty much every village. 

Next are just loose extras:
Kula cloth and panty pads, extra shoestrings and tips for my pacer poles, Petzl headlamp, mosquito net (in orange bag), coffee, sugar, spork, shower shoes

The plastic sleeve is for when I use pack transport. I plan on carrying my pack except for a few more difficult days. My credential, and two tiny journals. 

This last bit is what I carry onto the plane with me.

For sleeping: earplugs, Advil PM, sleepmask
Earbuds, plug converter, power bank,
kleenex, nose spray and bengay
(in case someone has too much perfume on 

and I need to mask it), 

inhaler, toothbrush, pen, clorox wipes, 

water bottle (not shown) and lastly,

an old cashmere sweater!

What I will wear on the plane. 
These are very lightweight cotton genie pants 

and a merino teeshirt.
I can wear these in the evenings after walking.

Also, I forgot to include my sun umbrella, 

and I'll be taking my Pacer Poles.

I know this looks like a lot, but it really isn't for a 68 day trip.

It all packs up small. 

I may or may not include a bladder.
Haven't yet decided.

Just 7 more sleeps!

Stay tuned,

Annie

Why Two Ways?

Map by Rick of Rick and Peg

Some may wonder why there are two ways from St. Jean Pied de Port in France over the border to Roncesvalles, in Spain.

 According to AI:

There are two ways to walk from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles because of terrain and weather. Walkers choose between the high-altitude Napoleon Route (over the Pyrenees ridge) and the lower Valcarlos Route (through the valley).

The Napoleon Route (Route Napoleon / GR 65)

Goes high over the mountain pass, reaching about 1,400 to 1,450 meters high.
Offers wide, open views of the mountains and nature.
Is very steep and hard on the body.
Closes by local law from November 1 to March 31 due to dangerous winter snow and wind. 

The Valcarlos Route

Follows the lower river valley through the village of Valcarlos.
Stays open all year round as the safe winter backup.
Follows paved roads with car and truck traffic for parts of the way.
Features sharp ups and downs through the valley, making it surprisingly tough despite being the lower option. 

From "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago" by David M. Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson, a WONDERFUL book for those interested in the historical facts of the villages along the Camino Frances:

 "The Puerto de Ciza road enters Spain through the easiest pass in the western Pyrenees. For the Romans, this was the Via Traiana, which linked Bordeaux with the gold mines of Astorga.  Two traditional routes cross the border here. 

The lower route through Valcarlos, traced by the modern highway, invited trouble since it offered many opportunities for easy ambush of travelers.

The higher route, to the east and over the high ridge, was preferred by the Romans - who hated being surprised - and by safety-minded pilgrims, and it is the route marked out as the hiking trail today and is referred to as the Napoleon Route. 

Valcarlos means "The Valley of Carlos" and the Carlos it refers to is Charlemagne, whose troops fared poorly in this narrow gorge. 

The 1,300 meter high Ibeñeta pass was where an 11th c. ermita belonging to the Monastery of Leyre once stood. Here also was the famous monastery and hospice of San Salvador, founded in 1127 by the bishop of Pamplona, Sancho Larrosa.  Pilgrims in the mid 12th c. referred to this chapel as the Capella Caroli Magni, but by the end of the century, people had come to believe this to be where Roland sounded his horn, and renamed it the Capella Rollandi. 

Today's modest chapel still has a bell to guide pilgrims on foggy days.  Nearby is a modern granite monument to Roland and just below it you can see a bunker from the 1936-39 Spanish Civil War."

For a quick 9-minute speed-walk video of this route, see John Sikora's film here - watch the "X" on the screen to see where he's walking and at about 4:31, he stops to show video of the river and trail:

Speed Walk of Valcarlos Route

And here is a short video by "Passportwalletphone" showing the beautiful scenery:
Valcarlos Route

I've decided to walk the Valcarlos route for two reasons:

1. I've led groups over the Napoleon route so many times since 2012, I've lost count, so I feel like I've "been there, done that." But I've never walked the Valcarlos route. Since I'm feeling this will be my last Camino Frances (but not my last Camino!) I want to be able to say I've walked both routes.

2. My health - my lungs are damaged from Birt Hogg Dubét syndrome and I just don't have the stamina I had 10 years ago. I am doing a very slow Camino this time, walking half stages, and the Valcarlos route allows me to break up the first stage from SJPP to Roncesvalles into two nearly even days. 

I hope you'll follow my blog. 
I'll post as often as I can - 
Buen Camino!
Annie

Walking the Valcarlos Route

 

I've made a big decision!

This year,  I will walk the Valcarlos Route.

In the 20-plus years and countless times  I've walked from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles, I've always walked the Napoleon Route - through wind, rain, sleet, and sunshine.

The Valcarlos route goes through the valley instead of up and over the Pyrenees, with a final 4 kilometer climb into Roncesvalles at the end -  and the elevation is about 400 ft lower than the Napoleon route.

Because of the issues I've been having with my lungs, this route will be safer for me. Plus, I've never walked it!   

I'm thinking this will be my LAST Camino Frances, as I'm 74 this year and I have other routes I want to walk in the future, and I have never walked via Valcarlos.  

 

So, today I cancelled my bed at Borda, and made a reservation for the Hostal Camino de Santiago in Valcarlos. 

 

I'm getting excited!

I leave for Vancouver, Washington 

in one week. 

I will spend 2 nights with my youngest son, then one night at an airport hotel, and leave for Spain early Tuesday morning.

My bag is packed.

It weighs right at 12 pounds without food/water. 

I've already paid for bag transport for one day so I may have the bag transported on day two for the steep walk up to Roncesvalles. 

I saved closed to $500 by using travel points on my credit card to pay some of my lodging costs. I'll never get enough points to pay for a ticket so they came in handy this trip.

Here is my tentative schedule. I hope you can read it. I'll be walking VERY short stages, at least in the beginning. I just want to take it slow and enjoy every moment. I'm staying in a combination of albergues and private lodgings.