To Zariquigui

​The walk to Zariguiqui wasn't bad.  I started about seven this morning and arrived by 10 AM. I took several long breaks.  As I recall it's tomorrow tomorrow's walk that is much more steep, but today was fairly gentle.   

It doesn't feel like there are a lot of pilgrims on the trail. It's 11:44 AM here and it just feels like most of them have already passed by.  Right now there are only two other peregrinas in the Albergue with me. 

I bought picnic for dinner and for breakfast in the morning.  I think I've spent a total of €12 today.  

I'm still waiting for my transported bag to show up so I can do my laundry and get a shower.  Even though tomorrow is more difficult, I think I will carry my bag, but I will decide later.  

The church was open when I arrived. The person attending told me about the new window.   On the left are the kilometers from here to Santiago on the right or the kilometers from Roncesvalles to here.

Another Day in Pamplona

​Today was a good day!  I got great sleep last night!  

I took my time this morning and on the way into town I stopped for the best breakfast.  Six euros got me, avocado and mozzarella toast, fresh orange juice, and coffee.  I watched him squeeze my orange juice.  

After getting into town, I stopped off at the sporting store and bought a pair of walking shorts because it's so hot. Then I went to the pharmacy to pick up a citronella bracelet and some spray for mosquitoes because they are terrible this year.   They are about the size of buzzards!  I really got eaten up in Zubiri. 

This year I'm sleeping at Casa Ibarrola. It's a beautifully run Alberge right at the beginning of Pamplona when you're walking on the Camino.  He does a really nice free breakfast and there's free coffee and the beds are a little cubicle where you can draw a curtain.  It's extremely clean. He's constantly cleaning.  There's a refrigerator you can use and a stove that you can cook and microwave.   

And it's air conditioned!

I met a nice pilgrim from South Korea who is sharing her eggs with me she's making hard-boiled eggs for tomorrow. 

For dinner tonight, I bought some pasta and a melon and some yogurt at the supermarket  

Dinner was a total of €4.40. 

Dead Penguins

Well, as much as I love the penguin app it just didn't work for me. I got a notice from T-Mobile that my 30 day pass was already eaten up after 10 days.  I don't understand computers or the Internet or data, but my son had me turn all my apps off.  Apparently uploading all those photos to the cloud was using  up my data.

So I'm back to blogger

The night in Zubiri was pretty stressful.  We are in the middle of a heat wave and between the heat, the mosquitoes, and the snoring guy, I did not get even five minutes sleep.  So I did not feel like I could walk yesterday.  Instead, I took a bus and booked a hotel. 

I got a great night sleep. 

I had planned on walking to Zabaldika but because I felt so poorly, I was afraid I wouldn't make it there in time to get to get a bed. You cannot make reservations there.  So now I have an extra day here in Pamplona.  Luckily the place I have booked for tonight has the air-conditioning. 

The heat has been almost unbearable.  I should've known better, but sometimes I act before I think.  Consequences seem to be the best teacher for my personality.   

Last night, I was ready to throw in the towel and fly home, but after a good nights rest, I'm going to continue on.

Tomorrow will be the defining day, whether or not I can make it up and over Alto Perdon. It isn't a huge hill, but I'm having trouble with even the slightest inclines.  I'm going to use backpack transport and go slow and if it's not 92°, I I'm hoping to make it.  

Right now, I'm just setting my sites on Logroño.  If I can make it that far, I will keep going.  If not, I may decide to come home at that point.  

Yesterday afternoon when I went out looking for food, everything was closed because of the heat.  I'm not in old town but a few kilometers outside of it.  The only thing I could find was a Taco Bell.   And oh my gosh, what a surprise!  Taco Bell in the United States needs to come to Spain and take some lessons.  The food was actually good.!  The fries were so crispy and hot. I could not eat them for 10 minutes.  The seasoning they use on them was delicious.  I also ordered a chicken burrito with guacamole. It was incredible and I hate Taco Bell food.  Anyway, it was quite a surprise.

I'm not sure how I will spend the day today because I've seen all there is to see in Pamplona. I don't have to leave my hotel until 11 so I may just poke around here and see if there's anything else I can drop from my pack to make it lighter.

I was so sad to hear of Dolly Parton's death yesterday. Gosh, what a brilliant bright light she was! She definitely made the world a better place.  We will miss her.

Also, I heard a German pilgrim died yesterday on the Camino.  That's the third since I started.  It's probably related to this heat.  It really has been unbearable.  Hopefully it will let up soon.

More later

Love, Annie

Holy Moly Pamplona!

​I got into Madrid, exhausted.  My Pacer Poles made it and I was able to pick them up with no problems.  While waiting for my flight to Pamplona I met two pilgrims who were trying to get someone to share a taxi to SJPP.  Before we boarded the plane, a couple of pilgrims showed up, identifiable by their backpacks, and a connection was made.  The price of a taxi from Pamplona to SJPP is about €160 but if you can share, it's not so bad.   There is a bus that leaves every day for €28 but it leaves at noon so a lot of people miss that connection.

My taxi from the airport to old town was €16.  When I arrived at my hotel, it was in the hundreds here and I had booked this hotel specifically because it said that it had air-conditioning. However, when I got into my room, there was no air-conditioning.  I was told by reception it was broken.  After explaining to them that that was the whole reason I booked here they moved me from my air-conditioned queen room into a modest but air-conditioned triple.   So I'm quite comfortable.

I was a bit shell shocked at the prices of Menu del Dia on this street at €30, so I went walking around and found a nice little Doner Kabab place where I ordered half a rotisserie chicken, some fries, salad, and an Aquarius and the total was only 8 Euros.  The chicken was small, but delicious and plenty for one person. 

I laid down and took a nap for about four hours after having a quick shower and washing out some clothes. It felt so good to sleep in a bed. When I woke up,I went out looking for breakfast for tomorrow morning.   I found an Eroski market and bought some yogurt and another couple of Aquarius drinks. Aquarius is like Gatorade -  it has minerals in it, which I really needed because my feet and toes were really cramping when I got here. I was probably extremely dehydrated.  American Airlines doesn't have the best service anymore and during that whole trip, they only offered us one bottle of water even though I had upgraded.  But that's a whole other blog post.  

I went to Caminoteca, the local pilgrim shop, and bought some flip-flops and then I found a China store where I got a China bag to use for my backpack transport.  I want to carry my backpack and a few few items like my Altus poncho. So I will put everything else in this China bag for the transport company. I plan on carrying my backpack from Roncesvalles, but I'm not going to attempt it the first two days. I am not in the greatest shape and I don't want to overdo it.  The cost of the China bag was €1.50.

The cost of the four yogurts plus one Aquarius was €3.08

My food total for today is €18.97, which is well within my food budget of €30 per day

More tomorrow

Love, Annie

Lighten Up

A ​traveler trudged along a mountain path, his back bent beneath the weight of an enormous bundle. Strapped to him were blankets, pots, books, and trinkets from places he barely remembered. His steps were slow, his breath heavy. 

At the foot of the mountain, an old man sat beneath a cypress tree, watching the traveler’s struggle. "Where are you headed?" the old man asked. "To the monastery at the peak," the traveler replied, shifting his load. "I seek wisdom."

The old man nodded. "A noble journey. But tell me, why carry all this?" 

The traveler wiped his brow. "These are important things—things I may need." 

The old man simply smiled and gestured to the path ahead. The traveler sighed and continued. The path grew steeper, the air thinner. Each step drained him. Soon, his shoulders ached. His knees trembled. The straps cut into his skin. Finally, unable to bear it any longer, he dropped a pot by the side of the road. Then a book. Then a blanket. 

By the time he reached the halfway point, he had shed nearly everything. His body, once burdened, now moved with ease. The wind felt crisper, the sky wider. 

As he approached the peak, he found the old man already sitting there, waiting beneath another cypress tree. The traveler gasped. "How did you⁠—?" 

The old man only smiled, then stood up and began walking toward a path that led further upward—one the traveler hadn’t noticed before. The traveler—exhausted from his journey—sat down to rest. As he was resting, he looked back down the mountain. Far below, another figure struggled up the path, back bent beneath an enormous bundle.

- A Cup of Zen by Kai Tsukimi

***

When I read the story this morning, it made me chuckle. On my way to the Camino carrying a backpack and a day pack, the story seemed very appropriate in many different ways. 

Physically, I have struggled to make my backpack as light as possible.  I realize there are still things that I need to discard. I will take a better look once I arrive in Pamplona and can unload and reload it.

Emotionally and mentally I realize I have many things I can discard on this journey. And that actually is the reason for this particular Journey and this particular Camino.

Stay tuned

Love,

Annie

Two More Sleeps and the PCT Event

 

Yesterday, Joe drove me to Vancouver, WA so I could go with my son, his partner Odie, and another friend to the Pacific Crest Trail Event up in Cascade Locks. It was awesome. There were vendors from every corner of the backpacking world, as well as a few interesting characters like BIG FOOT!

My son bought about $100 worth of tickets for the raffle and we were lucky to win over $200 in gear!  One of the items we won was a Kula Cloth, which worked out great b/c when I got back to his house, I realized I'd left mine in another backpack at home. 

I'm hoping to meet up with my friend, Patty Moak, tomorrow for lunch and then I'll spend the night at a local hotel so I'll be close to the airport for my early morning flight to Madrid.

My pack weighs 14 pounds without food and water, which really feels like too much, but I've packed and repacked many times and just don't see where I can cut anything out for now. I'll be walking in two seasons, Summer and Autumn, and need clothes for both.
Maybe once I'm on the trail,
I can find a way to cut it closer.

The weather is looking like thunderstorms for my walk to Valcarlos and Roncesvalles. If it is LIGHTNING and thunder, then I''ll probably take the bus from SJPP to Roncesvalles. I don't mind rain, but I'm not keen on lightning in those mountains - so we'll see. Weather can change quickly and I'm sure the Pilgrim Office in SJPP will have good info for me.

I guess that's it for now.
I already miss Joe.
I wish he was walking with me,

but he's staying home to care for the house 
and the garden.
He and I are still thinking of picking up
the Camino Ignaciano in the Spring.

Keeping my fingers crossed!

Love,

Annie

Veering Off to the Camino Invierno

Today, I have decided that I will veer off from Ponferrada 

to the Camino Invierno. 

I have walked from Sarria to Santiago many, many times and this will give me the opportunity to walk a new trail, see some new sights, including the gorgeous Las Medulas, and still arrive in Santiago as scheduled.

Just two more sleeps until I leave for Vancouver, Washington, where I'll spend a couple of days with my youngest son. We're going to attend the Pacific Crest Trail Days event in Cascade Locks. I have a hotel near the airport Monday night and leave for Madrid Tuesday morning.

I finally figured out (I think) how to get my Pacer Poles to Madrid. I ordered a yoga mat carrying case from Amazon. I'll wrap the poles in bubble wrap, put them in that case, and check it. Keeping my fingers crossed it will make it safely. I may tuck in my sun umbrella as well.

Getting excited!

Love,

Annie

See the Difference?

Osprey Mira 34L on the left and Arcteryx Brize 32L on the right.

Ok, so this photo is embarrassing because I'm in horrible shape since my illness - but here is the difference between the Osprey Mira 34L pack and my Arcteryx Brize 32L pack.  

The Brize just fits better and feels better. 

Packing For My 2026 Slow Camino

I am in the last stages of planning for 

my 2026 Slow Camino.

I've been working on deciding 

which pack I'll take. 

Day before yesterday 

I filled my 32L Brize pack for my daily walk.

It weighs 13 pounds with water. 

It was "ok" but a little uncomfortable on my shoulders. 

I actually like this pack best 

because of how easy it is to pack.

It's a top-loading pack 

so everything just stuffs down inside.

Also it only opens to the neck 

so it's great to keep pickpockets at bay.
It's a very sleek pack.

Yesterday I filled my 

30L Gregory Juno hydration pack.

 I suspected it may be a bit more comfortable.  

It rides more on the hips 

than on the shoulders.
But it was a pain in the butt for me to pack 

because it opens on the face 

It's also 2L smaller 

and that does make a difference.
I just am taking too many clothes for that pack.
I have to work to stuff everything in.
After fiddling with it,

I decided it was not a contender.
I may just sell that pack.
It's an awesome pack with hydration

and I've never carried it.
Maybe when I get back it'll go on Ebay.

Yesterday I hopped over to REI and picked up 
a 34L Osprey Mira pack.
Lovely pack, 

but when I tried carrying it full today
 two very hard edges at the bottom frame
dug into my hips.
So that pack is getting returned today.

I think I've decided I'll carry 
the Arcteryx Brize.

Generally I like a smaller pack
but since I'm starting in August

and finishing the end of October

I'll be walking in HOT weather

as well as cold.
So I need to take more clothes

than usual.

In the meantime, 

this is what I'm packing.
I use packing cubes - they're old but still work great

and really help me stay organized.

As I said, I'm carrying more 

than I normally would take
because I'm starting in HOT weather 
and ending in COLD weather,

so I need to be able to layer my clothes.

This is what everything looks like 

when it's loaded into the cubes:

 I'll go through each cube to show you what I'm bringing
for this 68 day trip.

First is my NatureHike Ultralight down sleeping bag and pillow. I love this little sleeping bag.
I cut off the zipper and sewed up the bottom edge

to make a foot box, so 

it's more like a down quilt.
Warm and featherweight.

In the largest cube are my daily clothes:

3 pair panties, 2 socks,
grey sun hat, grey featherweight sun hoodie, teal featherweight sleeveless shirt for sleeping, red merino wool short sleeve, black silk wool long sleeve, 

a pair of shorts and my Macabi skirt.
I stuffed two extra masks in just in case.

In the next cube are my cold/hot weather clothes.
Blue ALTUS poncho (vacuum sealed for travel),

pink neck cooler (you soak it in water then wear),
Marmot lightweight jacket,
fleece hat, black merino buff
(I've taken out the pink/blue scarf)

Next is my laundry/bath cube:
Bath soap, laundry soap (fels naptha),
large safety pins for drying clothes, 
shampoo, clothes line

The green bag holds my first aid and bathroom things:
Shoe horn and eyebrow pencil
 (I have no eyebrows - thanks to cancer),
KT tape, Electrolyte drops, Fluimucil,
toe gel tubes and washcloth pills,

lambs wool, q-tips, razor, vicks, deodorant, dental floss,
Prep H, and a tiny pill carrier holding ibuprofen, Advil PM, a muscle relaxer, and Gaviscon. If I need more, there are pharmacies in pretty much every village. 

Next are just loose extras:
Kula cloth and panty pads, extra shoestrings and tips for my pacer poles, Petzl headlamp, mosquito net (in orange bag), coffee, sugar, spork, shower shoes

The plastic sleeve is for when I use pack transport. I plan on carrying my pack except for a few more difficult days. My credential, and two tiny journals. 

This last bit is what I carry onto the plane with me.

For sleeping: earplugs, Advil PM, sleepmask
Earbuds, plug converter, power bank,
kleenex, nose spray and bengay
(in case someone has too much perfume on 

and I need to mask it), 

inhaler, toothbrush, pen, clorox wipes, 

water bottle (not shown) and lastly,

an old cashmere sweater!

What I will wear on the plane. 
These are very lightweight cotton genie pants 

and a merino teeshirt.
I can wear these in the evenings after walking.

Also, I forgot to include my sun umbrella, 

and I'll be taking my Pacer Poles.

I know this looks like a lot, but it really isn't for a 68 day trip.

It all packs up small. 

I may or may not include a bladder.
Haven't yet decided.

Just 7 more sleeps!

Stay tuned,

Annie

Why Two Ways?

Map by Rick of Rick and Peg

Some may wonder why there are two ways from St. Jean Pied de Port in France over the border to Roncesvalles, in Spain.

 According to AI:

There are two ways to walk from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles because of terrain and weather. Walkers choose between the high-altitude Napoleon Route (over the Pyrenees ridge) and the lower Valcarlos Route (through the valley).

The Napoleon Route (Route Napoleon / GR 65)

Goes high over the mountain pass, reaching about 1,400 to 1,450 meters high.
Offers wide, open views of the mountains and nature.
Is very steep and hard on the body.
Closes by local law from November 1 to March 31 due to dangerous winter snow and wind. 

The Valcarlos Route

Follows the lower river valley through the village of Valcarlos.
Stays open all year round as the safe winter backup.
Follows paved roads with car and truck traffic for parts of the way.
Features sharp ups and downs through the valley, making it surprisingly tough despite being the lower option. 

From "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago" by David M. Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson, a WONDERFUL book for those interested in the historical facts of the villages along the Camino Frances:

 "The Puerto de Ciza road enters Spain through the easiest pass in the western Pyrenees. For the Romans, this was the Via Traiana, which linked Bordeaux with the gold mines of Astorga.  Two traditional routes cross the border here. 

The lower route through Valcarlos, traced by the modern highway, invited trouble since it offered many opportunities for easy ambush of travelers.

The higher route, to the east and over the high ridge, was preferred by the Romans - who hated being surprised - and by safety-minded pilgrims, and it is the route marked out as the hiking trail today and is referred to as the Napoleon Route. 

Valcarlos means "The Valley of Carlos" and the Carlos it refers to is Charlemagne, whose troops fared poorly in this narrow gorge. 

The 1,300 meter high Ibeñeta pass was where an 11th c. ermita belonging to the Monastery of Leyre once stood. Here also was the famous monastery and hospice of San Salvador, founded in 1127 by the bishop of Pamplona, Sancho Larrosa.  Pilgrims in the mid 12th c. referred to this chapel as the Capella Caroli Magni, but by the end of the century, people had come to believe this to be where Roland sounded his horn, and renamed it the Capella Rollandi. 

Today's modest chapel still has a bell to guide pilgrims on foggy days.  Nearby is a modern granite monument to Roland and just below it you can see a bunker from the 1936-39 Spanish Civil War."

For a quick 9-minute speed-walk video of this route, see John Sikora's film here - watch the "X" on the screen to see where he's walking and at about 4:31, he stops to show video of the river and trail:

Speed Walk of Valcarlos Route

And here is a short video by "Passportwalletphone" showing the beautiful scenery:
Valcarlos Route

I've decided to walk the Valcarlos route for two reasons:

1. I've led groups over the Napoleon route so many times since 2012, I've lost count, so I feel like I've "been there, done that." But I've never walked the Valcarlos route. Since I'm feeling this will be my last Camino Frances (but not my last Camino!) I want to be able to say I've walked both routes.

2. My health - my lungs are damaged from Birt Hogg Dubét syndrome and I just don't have the stamina I had 10 years ago. I am doing a very slow Camino this time, walking half stages, and the Valcarlos route allows me to break up the first stage from SJPP to Roncesvalles into two nearly even days. 

I hope you'll follow my blog. 
I'll post as often as I can - 
Buen Camino!
Annie