Here I go...

Finding magic under the stars of the Camino Santiago de Compostela

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Borce to Canfranc Estacion

The little hostel at Borce was a joy
but after being holed up an entire day drying laundry on a rack in front if a heater
we were getting cabin fever.

We walked to Etsaut in the cold rain and waited for the 11:33 bus to Canfranc Station.
There were 4 French pilgrims on the bus who all got off at Forges d'Abel.
When we arrived in Canfranc I couldn't believe how cold it is here!

We arrived at Pepillo Grillo around 1 pm and were asked if we wanted a dorm with 8 beds for $18 or a private double for $20. Both prices include breakfast.

I have now checked into Pepito Grillo Albergue.
20 euros each for private room including breakfast.
A dorm with 8 beds was 2 euros less.

We took the private double although so far we are the only two people here.
Not many pilgrims appear to be walking this week. Probably smart due to the weather.

I called downstairs to ask what time the bar opened and was told 4 pm.
Apparently there was a meeting - and the owner arrived at 4:30.
The rooms are very cold as there is sleet outside.
The heat is off. I
 huddled up in my sleeping bag until I heard footsteps.
I was assured the heat would be on soon.
The owner's wife appears sick and not feeling well.
I think i made her angry asking questions and so rather than ask her to cook I have decided to eat elsewhere for dinner.

I will report back tomorrow about the Albergue and whether or not we feel it is a good place to bring groups.

So far, Lourdes, Arudy, Oloron and Borce all seem good stops.
 Asson and Sarrance need more exploring
 and I'd like to check other albergues and hotels here in Canfranc 
in case this one does not work out. 
So far I do not feel particularly welcome
 but perhaps the bad feelings are due to illness and language barrier ? 
I hope so ... We will see...

Ok, it's later and I'm absolutely freezing!

I just put on long johns, and long heavy pants, gloves and a hat
and am sitting in a cold room with a blanket wrapped around me.
It is snowing outside, like a freezer in here, and the owner refuses to turn on the heat.

When I went to the bar to ask when they would turn on the heat,
I was told by the lady that "this is Spain, not America" and that there would be no heat.
Oh my!
She then told her husband, not realizing I understand Spanish,
that if we didn't like it, we could go someplace else!
Her husband told her, "Sonrie!"
I replied with a smile, "Si'!  Sonrie!"

It was horrible.
I think she was very sick, sneezing and wiping her nose with her hands.
I told them we would find food elsewhere, afraid of her sickness.
I wish we had stayed elsewhere.
Now I'm paranoid I'll get this flu.

I go to my room, get into my down sleeping bag,
and try to stay warm.
My toes are frozen.

Joe, on the other hand, has decided to walk BACK to Col de Somport and back.
Brave man!

Me, I'm just old and cold and a little sad!
 Even for an Oregon girl this is chilly.

Tomorrow it's supposed to warm up.
I hope so!

Not sure yet where well walk tomorrow but it looks like either Villanua or Jaca.
There are 'witch's caves' I'd love to see in Villanua if the Albergue there is open
 but so far I can't get an answer via phone, so we'll see.

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