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Monday, December 13, 2021

Getting From Madrid to Pamplona and More on Pickpockets - UPDATED







Getting to Pamplona From Madrid

UPDATED INFORMATION:
Since writing this blog in 2013, there has been a new bus station added at the Madrid airport. I have not yet used it but I will this April and will report back via blog. My understanding is that it is well-signed, so just follow the signs to the bus terminal - and you can still catch a bus to Pamplona directly from the airport in Madrid.
***

FROM MADRID, you can fly, 
take the train, or take a bus.
Arriving in Madrid is a treat! 

The airport is very modern and beautiful! 

Madrid Airport

Flying is nice, but Spain really is a bus country. Many bus companies offer good, clean and safe service across the country, and most of the buses are beautiful Mercedes Benz buses! Nothing like the old broken down Greyhounds you find in the USA!
An ALSA Bus

There are both regional bus companies and a few national ones. ALSA is one of the national bus companies, and one way to get from the airport to Pamplona when you first arrive.

A CONDA Bus.
 CONDA is another bus company that takes people from the Madrid airport to Pamplona.

If you fly into Madrid, there is now an actual bus terminal at the Madrid airport where you can catch a bus to Pamplona.


On ALSA, you have to change buses, usually in Burgos or Zaragoza, which makes the trip a bit longer. However, it is not a difficult change, especially if you speak a bit of Spanish. 

The CONDA buses go direction from Madrid to Pamplona with no change. This option is the also cheapest, coming in around €25-35.

Arrivals from North America, Asia, South America or Australia are better served from Madrid. Catch a bus directly from the airport Terminal 4 (where most international flights land) to Pamplona or take the metro (or Circanius train) from Madrid airport to Atocha metro station where you can connect with the high-speed train (AVE) to Pamplona in 3 hours. I have done this, and to me, it's easier just to hop on a bus at the airport and I'm on my way to Pamplona!

Arrivals from Europe, fly directly to Bilbao, Biarritz or Zaragoza then travel by bus or rental car to Pamplona in less than 2 hour drive.

CATCHING THE BUS

There are ALSA buses to Pamplona 
several times a day.
You must change buses once.
Check schedules at www.alsa.es 

There are CONDA buses going directly to Pamplona. 
No stops, no changes.
Check schedules at www.movelia.es

The prices between ALSA and CONDA buses differ by 10-30 euros. You can purchase your ticket online or at the airport. I suggest you wait and buy it at the airport in case of flight delays, or just be sure to give yourself plenty of time.

GETTING TO T4 in MADRID

Your ticket should tell you 
which terminal you are flying into.
If you are purchasing online, be sure to give yourself enough time to get off the plane, go through customs, pick up your baggage (not suggested to check bags), and get to the T4 terminal.
Your ticket will indicate where you are landing - it will say T1, T2, etc.

There is a bus going from terminal to terminal in Madrid. It costs less than 2 euros and can be caught downstairs and out front of your arrival terminal. Last time I took it, it was a blue/green bus and to the RIGHT after you walked out of the terminal.

ASK FOR HELP.

Find someone wearing a GREEN jacket and ask if they can help you. Or find the Information desk. They will speak English there. You will recognize it because there is a large yellow "i" above it.
Information Desk
Tell them you are looking for the ticket office for the CONDA or ALSA bus to Pamplona. (whichever you decide on) They will direct you. 

Most of the signs in the Madrid airport are in English as well as Spanish. So it's really easy to find your way around - it's just LARGE!  They also give you the time it will take you to walk to the gate which is helpful.


Getting to Other Terminals

I find the bus the easiest and safest. To get a shuttle bus, the boarding platform is just outside the exit. They often allow you to purchase tickets right there next to the bus – so watch for that. This bus also goes into downtown Madrid. ASK. Sometimes the line is long, but it goes fast. 


The bus from T1 to T4 takes about 20 minutes. 

Going in direction T1 to T4, you want to be on the 1st Floor at the departures level.

(Going direction T4 to T1, you have to be on the Arrivals level, which is the Planta Baja, Lower level)

The terminal to terminal bus runs every 5 minutes between 6:30 a.m. and 23:30. From 23:30 - 1:50 a.m. it runs every 20 minutes; from 1:50 -6:30, every 40 minutes

Getting to your gate at T4 could be a long haul. But it's very well marked, with lots of indication about how much time it will take (though the times posted are very generous and you usually arrive in much less time than they indicate).

A tip -- The elevators in T4 are usually much quicker than the escalators because of the distances between upper and lower levels. 

There is an excellent blog on taking the shuttle into the city at this link:


Taking the Train from Madrid to Pamplona 


FINDING THE RENFRE CIRCANIUS

When I was there last, the Circanius RENFRE office was downstairs right next to where you go through the stiles to catch the train. It was very tiny and could have been a temporary office. It was only staffed by one person, and the wait was long, so don't depend on buying your ticket there if you're in a hurry. You can ask at the info desk in the airport and they will direct you.

In the airport, at the RENFRE Circanius station you can purchase a Tarjeta Dorada card for 5 euros. Then you can just show it to bus or train agents and possibly get nice discounts. Here is a link to more information about that card: 

This card is mainly for train travel, but I even got a discount at the museum in Merida with my card. It never hurts to ask! 

Again, when you arrive in Madrid, you will arrive at either terminal T2 or T4.  You can take the METRO to Atocha Metro Station and walk to the Renfre Station. Or you can take the Circanius to Atocha Station. It takes you right into the train station.

Atocha is the main train station in Madrid. There, you will find trains to destinations all over Europe. It's a big place and is beautiful inside. 

Atocha Station
The Circanius is a train that goes from the airport to Atocha and back all day long. You catch it on the lower floor of T4. Get your ticket from the tiny Renfre office right at the entrance to the train, or from the kiosks. 




There are signs in the airport that will lead you to both the Metro and the Circanius. 

If you are traveling by train, BE AWARE OF WHERE YOU ARE. They do not announce the stops. This is not such a problem during the daytime. You can watch for signs out your window.  But at night, the signs are difficult to see. Don't be afraid to ASK people sitting near you. They are used to tourists and are generally very helpful.

If you do decide to take the train, here are a few videos that will help you become familiar with the territory. Sorry, they're in Spanish, but you can pause them and study the screens on the ticket machine. 

(Often if there is a local, they will help you. Look for young people who may speak English.)





You want to choose ADULTO IDA  (Adult one way) and then your destination.

IF YOU TAKE THE METRO ... WATCH YOUR BELONGINGS!
It is like being in a sardine can and the pickpockets are working!
Be sure your money, cards, cameras, and electronics are really secure.
If you have zippers, I close them with a safety pin or even wire until I get to my destination. Hold your hand over your purse or pocket.  
Be AWARE. 

I know I harp on this, 
but it can save you some grief. 
One year in Barcelona, Joe and I got slimed with the "bird poop" scam. We knew what was going on and as soon as the guy approached, we yelled at him. He ran. If we had not know about it, we would have thought he was just a nice man in a business suit wanting to help us.  And we could have lost a lot.

Read my blogs on pickpockets.  
Know their schemes.
I'm going to post photos at the bottom of this blog to remind you.

Getting to Pamplona From Other Cities:

From Bilbao (169km)

No trains available to Pamplona.
Car (1.5 hours) Direction Bilbao-San Sebastian-Pamplona. Take the A15 from San Sebastian direct to Pamplona. You can also go via Bilbao-Vitoria-Pamplona, 2.2 hrs. We don't recommend this route as it has lots of curves and it’s not free either!
Bus (1.5 hours) Arrive to Bilbao ś Central Bus Station and take La Burundesa autobuseslaunion.com Tel: +34 944 271111.

From Biarritz (128km)

No train available to Pamplona.
Car (1.5 hours) Take the A63/E70 & cross the border into Spain. Stay on the E70/A8 direction Biarritz- Irún-San Sebastian-Pamplona.
Bus (1 hours) Bus from Biarritz to San Sebastian 12 noon and 6 pm pesa.net then change for a 2nd bus to Pamplona with La Conda condasa.com there are 7 daily buses starting at 7:15am and last bus at 8:30 pm. Telephone +34 943 461064

From San Sebastian (85km)

Train (1 hour 45) Train services from San Sebastian take about 1
hour 45 min to the Pamplona station, which is about 2km north of the old town. Tickets can be booked online in advance (strongly recommended) at Renfe.com.
Car (1 hour) Take the A15 direct to Pamplona and enjoy the scenery. Bus (1 hour) La Conda condasa.com there are 7 daily buses starting at 7:15am & last bus at 8:30 pm. Telephone +34 943 461064.

From Zaragoza (181km)

Train (2 hours) When you arrive at Zaragoza Train Station to connect to the High Speed Train (AVE). Tickets can be booked online in advance (strongly recommended) at Renfe.com.
Car (2 hours) Take the A2/E90 AP68 (toll roads) A68 direction Zaragoza-Tudela-Pamplona.

Bus (2 hours) La Conda condasa.com there are 7 daily buses starting at 7.15am & last bus at 8.30 pm. Tel: (0034) 976 333 372

AVENIDA DE AMERICA STATION.
Other buses to Pamplona will leave from the Avenida de America bus station in Madrid. Here is their address:

Intercambiador de Avda. de AméricaDirección: Avda de America, 9. Planta -1 C.P: 28028 Andén: 27 (Salidas y Llegadas) Planta -1
Horario: 5:30 h. a 01:30 h. (Largo recorrido) 

There are buses going regularly all day long from Madrid T4 to this station. You catch the bus outside the T4 terminal and it costs between 2-3 euros. The bus station is usually the last stop, but ASK the bus driver to please tell you when you arrive. You may have to walk one or two blocks - ask the bus driver when he drops you off to point you in the right direction.

How to Read an Horario (schedule)
If you are over 60, look for a box that says “Edad Dorada” which means “Golden Age.” This will get you a nice discount from 30 euros down to about 23 euros, depending on the day of the week.

IDA means "One-Way." 
IDA y VUELTA means “there and return.” 
SALIDA = Departure Time 
LLEGADA = Arrival Time 
ORIGEN = Origen 
DESTINO = Destination 
DURACION = Duration of Trip 
PRECIO = Price 
PRECIO PROMO – Promotional Price* 
Sometimes there is a special price war 
going on

PLAZAS – LIBRE = This means places are not assigned. You can sit anywhere. Some have assigned seats, so check your ticket when you get it.

LMXJVSD – These are the days of the week this bus/train runs: Lunes (Monday), Martes (Tuesday), Miercoles (Wednesay), etc.Learn the days of the weeks in Spanish. It will make your trip much simpler. 

Be aware that unlike USA calendars, calendars in Spain begin on MONDAY and end on SUNDAY, so it can be confusing.

If you have updated information or questions, please post them in the comment section.

Buen Camino, Peregrinos!

******************
A few photos to enlighten you!


The above photo shows a common scam along the Camino as well as in the large cities of Europe. Bright eyed, beautiful teenagers will approach you with a folder, or a clipboard, wanting to tell you about deaf people or some political issue. As soon as you see them approaching, WAVE THEM OFF AND SHOUT "NO!"  And be very aware of your pockets. See the girl picking the pocket of the man listening to the other pretty lady?

A girl watching for your pin number.
She has the pad positions memorized.
If someone is standing too closely when you are at the ATM, wave them back and even yell at them if they don't move!  It's best to do banking in the larger cities with a partner who can stand back to back with you and watch your surroundings. Be aware of quick handed money grabbers. Keep your hand over the slot that distributes the cash and the card.  Don't be paranoid, but don't let your guard down. They watch for distracted tourists.  If someone wants to talk to you while you're at the ATM, shout them away!  No need to be polite. They count on that!


Haha! 


I have seen this scam in action on stairs and escalators.
Someone in front of you will drop a bunch of change, 
or a package, and items will scatter.
They count on your help picking things up.
While you are helping, their partner is helping themselves to your goods.
I know it's tough, but walk on by.

Yes, they DO!

I"m just reading the paper… and making some money!

This is not the Madrid Metro, but this is how crowded it can be.

Don't trust anyone. Even nice old grandpa types, and ESPECIALLY if they're holding a sweater or jacket over their arm!  Move away from them! Put your back against the wall if you can.

Distracted by a Street Performer while the pickpocket's partner gets the goods.

How they work with a jacket over their arm.

It's not just men. It's women like your sister, mom, or child.
So sorry to have to post these photos, but you need to be aware.
Please read my blog on pickpockets.
These folks don't think like you do.
They are proud of what they do and have no shame in getting caught.

Know what to expect.
Stay alert.
Then relax and have a Buen Camino.

Sunday, December 05, 2021

Autumn 2022

 My gosh, people are ready to WALK!

I opened a Camino Trip for September this morning and I already have only TWO spots left! I guess cabin fever is getting to everyone.

My life has been full with caring for my elderly mother lately. The doctor put her on hospice last week. He told her he would be surprised if she made it through the winter. She is down to about 77 pounds and not able to eat much at all. At first, she refused, as it was a difficult thing for her to hear. She just doesn't feel ready to go, and I feel so sorry for her. She has had a very unhappy life. However, as many problems as we've had in the past, she IS my mother and I appreciate her for giving me life. My life has just been so blessed and for that, I'm grateful to her for bringing me into it. She and I have rounded out many of the rough spots in the last few months, and I think all is finally ok.  Hospice sure has been helpful for me. It's good to have some relief. I have been pretty exhausted. 

My family had a wonderful gathering for Thanksgiving. We met at the home of my youngest son. My eldest son came with his children and my middle son came with his son. My ex, the boys' father, came out from Georgia, and Joe was there as well. It was such a nice week.

Now, I'm sitting here looking out at the dreary Oregon sky, wishing I was in the sunny desert. But mom is too frail to travel, so no desert this season.  

I hope you all are doing great out there in computer land - and are staying safe. My prayers are that this COVID mess is over soon, because I'm sure over IT!

Buen Camino!

Annie

Thursday, December 02, 2021

My Packing List for 2022


Annie's Packing List for 2022

Here is my current packing list:

Carried/worn on flight to Madrid:
Backpack - Brize 32L
Daypack -  Deuter 15L empty and inside backpack which is carried on flight

I layer my clothes on the flight to Madrid. It keeps my backpack small enough to carry on. If I get hot, I can remove clothes. If I'm cold, I can put more on. 

PASSPORT
Photo ID (driver’s license is fine)
Credit Card (optional)
ATM Card
Money Belt - mine are sewn into my skirt
Small change purse
panties
smart wool socks
merino wool leggings
silk undershirt
short sleeve shirt
long sleeve featherweight fleece
Macabi skirt
1 packet tissues
Shoes - New Balance SL-2 trail runners
iPhone & charger
Sleep mask and earplugs
Saline spray for my nose

Of course, I carry my eyeglasses.

Inside Backpack
Down Sleeping blanket
2 Smart Wool socks 
2 Panties
Featherweight Puff Jacket
1 Hiking shorts
ALTUS raincoat
long sleeve shirt
Buff
Merino beanie hat 
Towel
Small packet tissue
Ziplock bag to carry TP out
Handkerchief
Refillable water bottle 8 oz
Tiny container deodorant
Travel size toothpaste/toothbrush
1/2 Ligget's shampoo bar
My tiny pillow
Tiny lightweight journal and pen for taking down info 
Guidebook - I like Brierley's map book
Extra eyeglasses
KT Tape
A few bandaids
A few ibuprofen
plug adapter
Credential

I keep my pack weight down to 10% of my body weight

Flip-flops or Crocs - pick up in Spain
Cotton or silk sock liners / pick up in Spain

BACKPACK: Buy a comfortable but lightweight backpack. Don’t let the salesperson sell you a heavy-duty, inner frame, mountaineering pack. You won’t be carrying camping gear, tent poles, stoves, etc. You’ll only need a lightweight pack to carry clothing and toiletries. Most packs come in different torso lengths and some in ladies and men’s sizes so try them out in the store. See my blog post on buying a backpack and email me if you do not have the link.

When you go shopping, take a digital kitchen scale with you and weigh everything! If you find two items that you like, buy the one that weighs the least.

Your backpack and shoes will be your most expensive items. I paid around $125 for my backpack and around $150 for my shoes!

You must try on your backpack to be sure it fits correctly. Please do NOT buy it online unless you've tried it on in a shop first.

PASSPORT/VISA – NOW is the time to make sure your passport and/or visa are up to date. If your passport expires within 3 months of this trip, they can stop you and send you home.

CASH: I usually carry no more than 300 Euros on my person. I carry all 20€ denominations except for one 10€ and two 5€ bills. You could purchase Euros at your bank. You could also buy them at the airports. But why do that? Just get them when you land at the closest ATM. I used to get 100€ at my bank, then use the ATM in Spain. But I don't bother anymore. I just hit up the ATM when I arrive at the airport in Madrid, Barcelona, Paris, or wherever I land. It's much easier and Charles Schwab refunds all my ATM fees at the end of each month

The ATMs in Spain work just like the ones in the USA. You put your card in and the money comes out in Euro bills. Check with your bank to find out if there is a charge for using the ATM in Spain. Be sure your ATM card has a 4-digit pin.

I switched bank accounts to Charles Schwab because they charge no ATM fees at all and they reimburse me for all  fees the Spanish banks charge. I love this card for traveling!

I always carry an EXTRA ATM CARD with me in case my card gets eaten by a machine on a weekend. You should carry it someplace besides your money belt, in case the money belt gets lost or stolen.

Do not bother with traveler’s checks. Nobody in Spain will take them. Also, many small villages will NOT take credit cards, so you will need to carry cash at all times for your food, transportation, etc. Also, be sure you take a popular globally known credit card such as VISA if you’re taking one.

BE SURE TO NOTIFY YOUR BANK a couple of weeks before you leave for Spain. If you do not, you might get there and find your card has been frozen because they think it’s been stolen. It’s much easier to deal with that issue from home than from Spain! PUT IT ON YOUR CALENDAR NOW.

Money Belt: Please purchase a money belt that can be worn under your clothes and around your waist. You can find them at the Steve Ricks website and REI and many other online travel stores. Buy this in addition to a fanny pack (if you use a fanny pack - an easy target for pickpockets!) Keep your passport, your bank cards, and your cash in this and never ever leave it in your room. Take a plastic zip-lock bag that it will fit in and carry it into the shower with you. In the morning before you leave your room, put the day’s cash into your fanny pack or change purse. Never get into the money belt in a public place. Spain is very safe. In fact I feel it is much safer than any city in the USA. But you must use your common sense and not tempt fate. With this economy, there is sure to be a rise in petty theft, so just take precautions.

RAIN:  I love my ALTUS poncho. It covers me AND my pack! You have the option of picking it up in SJPP, Pamplona, Zubiri, Madrid, or Sarria. However, if you choose not to, you will need a rain cover for your backpack because there most certainly will be some rainy days. A nysil cover is the best. It is lightweight and I think I paid under $20 for mine. It folds up into a small packet about the size of half a sandwich and I keep it handy in the front pocket of my backpack. Last year I bought an umbrella in Spain and carried it and loved it! I used it for rain AND for sunshine! I walked in the shade probably 20 degrees cooler than fellow pilgrims with no umbrella. If you do not use an ALTUS, you will definitely need rain gear unless you're walking midsummer.

DAY PACK - When I take groups I book backpack transport. On those days, I carry a good sturdy daypack with nice padded shoulder straps. You can purchase them online from REI or other sporting goods stores. If you are carrying your backpack and NOT transporting it, you will not need this.

WALKING STICKS:  See my blog on walking sticks for more information. There will be slippery places on the trail so I’d advise you carry them. You can buy trekking poles in SJPP or you can pick up a really nice stick there for under 10€

SHOES: I’ve probably worn your ears out about shoes. This is your most important purchase. Do not try to save money here. Spend what it takes. Your feet will carry you across Spain so treat them as friends and buy the correct shoes. I love New Balance. See my blogs. You do NOT need hiking boots. Buy comfortable, flexible sole walking or running or trail shoes. Get shoes with a LARGE DEEP and WIDE toe-box so your toes don’t rub against each other or press against each other. This is important because we are walking all day long. Spend the $35 on some nice gel inserts. I like Motion Control inserts because they keep my ankles straight and support the instep. Buy your shoes 1 to 1.5 sizes too large because your feet WILL swell when you are walking 6 hours per day. Take your socks when you try them on.

CROCS OR FLIP FLOPS:  At the end of the day after your shower, you will want something comfortable to put your feet into. I love Crocs because they are featherweight to carry, and they are nice and wide so your feet will be happy. I’ve also carried Teva sandals, and those work fine. I usually pick up my Croc knockoffs in Spain at one of the Chinese discount stores for around 6 euros.

SOCKS. Smart Wool or other wool hiking socks. I love Smart Wool socks because they are cushioned and last forever. I get mine at REI. Any thick cushioned wool hiking sock will be fine. 1000 mile socks bought in the UK are about £9.18 a pair.

QUICK DRYING SOCK LINERS: These are thin, polyester (or cotton) socks that you wear under your wool socks. You change these each day, but you can wear the wool socks up to a week. When you walk, the wool socks will rub against the liners, instead of against your skin, and keep you from getting blisters. I buy my liner socks in Spain at the China stores.

You can also just wear the smart wool alone.
You can also just wear the same socks you'd wear at home.
There are plenty of places along the route if you decide you need a change.

SHORT AND LONG SLEEVED TOPS:  You don’t need anything fancy, just something that will dry overnight when you wash it. If you live in the USA, consider visiting your local Goodwill Store and check out the Action Wear section. You can find unbelievable buys there! Consider the weight rather than the fashion. Nobody cares if your pants match your shirt on the Camino.

FEATHERWEIGHT FLEECE: This is part of your layering system. You will probably start out in the morning wearing it and strip it off within the first hour. You can purchase them from Cape Storm or First Ascent, from Outdoor Warehouse, Cape Union Mart, REI, and other sporting goods stores. Goodwill is another good choice if you live in the USA. A zipper is convenient, but it is also extra weight. Choose a microfleece if possible; something not too bulky, but warm. Polartec is a great fabric choice.

Hiking shorts (quick dry) or zip-off trousers: Again you want quick dry shorts or trousers. They make some really nice hiking trousers that have zip-off legs. If you can find these, they are great. They have lots of pockets and if you find them, just buy 2 pair and don’t bother with extra shorts.

MACABI SKIRT. The past few years I hiked in 2 Macabi skirts. These are expensive but worth every penny. Honestly, I could have gotten by the entire 3 months with one skirt. They just do NOT get dirty and when you wash them, they dry in an hour. They have HUGE pockets to carry food, and guidebooks and zippered pockets for cash. I loved this skirt and will wear one each time I walk from now on. You can find them online.

Long lightweight trousers: If you buy zip-off trousers, you will not need these.

Parachute jacket trousers: These are very nice for wind and rain. They are lightweight nylon or Gore-Tex. Mine are Moonstone and are Gore-Tex. I have heard that Frogg Toggs are very good and are affordable. I think REI carries them. You do not need these AND an ALTUS. One or the other. But if you choose this, you'll need a pack cover. With the ALTUS, your pack is protected when you put on the raincoat.

OR

ALTUS Backpack Raincoat – bought in Spain. This can be bought in SJPP, in Zubiri, in Pamplona, Madrid, and in Sarria. If you would like to order this and have it waiting for you in Spain, you can order ahead. The 2018 price was 45 euros each. This is a great deal because you will save on expensive shipping. I can’t say enough about this poncho – it will keep you warm and dry, and will cover your backpack as well as you. Do a google search and look at the photos. It’s awesome. … if I get cold I layer clothes and put this on top. I’ve even used it as a blanket. If you do any hiking or backpacking, you will use this again and again.

UNDERWEAR. I buy straight-leg panties for these hikes because they don’t bind me but whatever you wear at home is perfectly fine. Ladies, buy panties with a cotton crotch panel.

LONG JOHNS. Buy a pair of lightweight, but warm long johns. Good fabrics are silk, polyester, merino wool, bamboo or polertec. I have purchased Cuddle Duds at JC Penney’s and I’ve also got a pair of silk long johns. You can find them online or in sporting stores. REI carries several brands. Last year I splurged for a set of merino long johns. They kept me toasty warm

SPORTS BRAS. Of course, this is up to you, but I suggest sport bras for comfort. Underwires can cut into you and are not comfortable with a backpack. You can find really nice but inexpensive ones at stores like Marshall's. When I wore a bra, I bought mine in a 3 pack for under $20.

HAT & PEAK: A “peak” is the visor part of a cap. You can take a baseball cap or buy a hiking hat. You can take one of those lightweight visors without a top. Something to keep the sun out of your eyes. I have a Tilley hat that I love. It has a secret compartment for my paper with credit card numbers, extra cash, etc. It smooches up to fit into my pack and it holds my raincoat hood off my face.

I also carry a microfiber beanie for cold mornings.

I also have a BUFF – look for them on the internet, they are very cool!

Sun Screen : I do not wear sun screen. When it is sunny and hot, I put on my long sleeved lightweight shirt and lately I've gone to carrying an umbrella! I pick it up in Madrid or Pamplona for under 10 Euros. I don't get a folding umbrella, but a stick one. Sturdy and perfect for rain or sun, they are also useful to frighten away dogs if necessary.

If you need sunscreen, this is something you can easily purchase in SJPP when you arrive.

WAIST BAG: This is just a small bag I call a fanny pack. It can hold your cash, your camera, and your Credential. But remember, it is SOOOOO easy for a pickpocket to get into that thing, so be sure MOST of your cash is in your money belt inside your clothing! If you have pants with large pockets that zip or button, you won’t need one. You can also pick one up in Spain.

SMALL CHANGE PURSE: Like the ones your grandma used to carry. To carry the day’s cash. Pick one up in Spain.

GLASSES AND CASE: If you wear prescription glasses, please bring an extra pair (safer). I used to advise you bring a prescription, but it's pretty much impossible to get a new pair of glasses in under a week. So you're better off bringing an extra pair. On one of my last group walks, one lady lost her glasses going over the Pyrenees in a snowstorm and had to wear her prescription sunglasses the entire rest of her Camino. Generally I don't suggest you bring "extra" things.. but this is one time I do.

CAMERA . I use my iPhone

HEAD LAMP (optional) Honestly, I hate these things. I’ve been rousted from many a good night’s slumber by a pilgrim wearing a headlamp. You really don't need to be walking in the dark either. So unless you really need this, leave it at home. If you really DO feel you need one, get one with a red lamp so you don't blind the rest of the albergue.

CREDENTIAL : Get this in Spain when you arrive. Usually 3 to 5 Euros. If you're walking with my group, I supply this. 

GUIDEBOOK: These are optional if you're walking the Camino Frances. It's very well marked and the pilgrim office will give you a list of albergues if you ask. If you would like to pick up a map book or guide to carry along, I prefer Brierley’s. It is the best, in my opinion.

NOTEBOOK/Journal & pen (pocket size) It’s nice to have this to make notes, take email addresses of people you meet along the way. But buy a small, lightweight one please. Mine is a mini-sketch book that I got at an art store and is about 3” x 5”.

TOILETRIES: In all my years of walking, I’ve seen only one or two woman wearing makeup on the Camino. Really, it’s true. It’s just too heavy to mess with and nobody bothers. Also, please do not bring perfume or cologne if you plan on walking with me as I have Multiple Chemical Sensitivities and cannot tolerate scent, even organic oils. Instead of shaving cream, bring unscented soap. Instead of electric razor, bring or buy disposables. Instead of hair dryers and rollers, cut your hair short and let it air dry or pull it into a ponytail. Go light! If you have dry skin, consider buying a lotion in SJPP or use olive oil! If you are set on a routine with a particular set of cosmetics, bring very small sizes and consider packing those into a smaller bag that you will check so you can still carry on your backpack (in case the bags get lost). If you have questions about this, email me. Here is what I do…

I use a Ligget’s shampoo bar for both body and hair washing.
I cut my hair very short before the trip and let it air dry.
I wear no makeup or lotion or fragrance
I use a deodorant crystal stone.
I do not shave my legs.

ENJOY THE FREEDOM!

TOWEL: I use an old worn out terrycloth towel cut in half. I’ve also carried a microfiber dish drying towel. I don’t care for camp towels; they just seem to spread the water around. But buy something lightweight. Most private hostels will provide towels, but pilgrim albergues will not.

TISSUE (1/2 toilet roll or pocket Kleenex) You can pick up pocket Kleenex packets n Spain. Please bring a plastic zip-lock bag to carry out your tissue when you use it on the trail. This is a HUGE issue with me – DO NOT LEAVE TOILET PAPER ON THE CAMINO, LADIES. CARRY IT OUT AND DISPOSE OF IT. It’s sad to see what women leave along The Way.

ELASTIC CLOTHESLINE: (optional) I like carrying one of these. Most places will have a clothesline for your wet clothes, but occasionally there will be none. You can find these in travel stores. Rick Steves’ website has a nice one. This is optional. I’ve also made my own by purchasing round elastic, then twisting or braiding it into a rope and tying one end. With this, you do not need clothespins. You simply hang your clothes by putting the edges between the twisted elastic.

LARGE SAFETY PINS (diaper pins are nice): These are nice to use to hang up your clothes for drying. They are also good to pin your damp socks to your backpack if they aren’t dry in the morning!

LIGHTWEIGHT NYLON STUFF SACKS: I use one for shirts, one for pants, one for underwear and socks, and one for “other small things.” Saves you digging around in your backpack, especially if it’s top-loading.

COMPEED (buy in Spain): This is a stick-on bandage that is great for hot-spots before you get a blister. Stock up in Pamplona or SJPP.

First aid items (buy in Spain): Things to consider are arnica cream (for aching muscles), Compeed, and mosquito spray. Also KT tape. The farmacias also have a wonderful rosemary-infused rubbing alcohol for sore muscles.

WATER BOTTLE (or just buy in Spain): You can bring a special water bottle or just buy a disposable one at the airport and refill it. You can bring a water bladder if you wish, but it’s really unnecessary on the Camino Frances, as there are fountains of good water in every village.

CELL PHONE: This is absolutely optional. There are still a few places in Spain where you can pay to make calls to the USA, especially in large cities like Burgos, Leon, Pamplona. There are also internet cafés in the large cities where you can send and receive emails. If you plan on carrying a cell phone, you should talk to your provider about using it in Spain to see what is necessary. You will also need to bring the charger and a plug adaptor. There are places in the cities where you can purchase a temporary cell phone or a sim card for your unlocked phone. I use VODAFONE every year and have never had issues getting a signal. Another one is ORANGE. See my post on phones.

Handkerchief or Bandana: (optional) Please carry one for your nose, your sweat, or for using if you have to urinate on the trail. It can be washed each night with your laundry and will save the trail from being littered with tissue.

If you have any questions about any of these items, drop me a line.

Remember, every ounce counts!
Pack light!

Love,

Annie