Here I go...

One Adventure After Another!

Friday, December 30, 2022

Watch Your Step!

There are only a few places I suggest you watch your step

on the Camino Frances:

  • Going down into Roncesvalles from the summit. You have two choices. You can stay on the trail and walk down through the beech forest. If it's dry, this may be a good option. However, it is very steep in places and in wet weather, the fallen leaves make the trail slippery and dangerous. Also, over the years, water has washed out huge gullies. If you choose this option, take care and watch your step, use your sticks, and go slow. The other option is to turn right and walk on the road. It is just as beautiful a walk, is safer, and no longer. That's the way I go these days. Also, if it's hot, there is a nice ice-cold stream where you can take off your shoes and soak your feet. 

  • Going down into Zubiri the path has two dangers. First, water has washed VERY deep gullies into the trail. I'm talking at least 12 inches in some places so you REALLY have to watch where you put your feet! It is important not to sightsee on this section of the trail, but watch every step. Also, if it is wet, there are big slick boulders that you can slip on. Personally, I rarely walk this section anymore. I walk to Viskarreta and then grab a taxi to take me to Zubiri.  There are TWO bars in Viskarreta - one busy one on the left just as you enter the village - and another on the left after you are in the village. The second one is quieter and a little difficult to see, but it's there. Just watch on the left. 

  • Going DOWN Alto Perdon. In this section the Camino guardians have put rocks to cover a washed out area. The loose rocks can be difficult to walk on and there's a chance here of twisting your ankle. However, I just walk on the sides and have no problems. The big thing here is, again, to WATCH where you put each step, and don't be watching the scenery. Use your sticks and pay attention. 

These are the ONLY 3 sections I'm aware of
where you really have to watch your step.



Boots, Yes or No?

 Here is what I think about footwear on the Camino:



Wednesday, December 07, 2022

Hórreos, Palomares, and Rollos de Justicia


While walking the Camino, you will often come across a strange looking structure, built up on stilts, with a cross on top. What ARE these?

These are Hórreos, and are a type of corn crib, built to store dried grain, and made to keep rodents out.

These structures have different names depending on the province where they are located or the shape they have. They can be called espigueiro or canastro in the north of Portugal, cabazo in Lugo and A Coruña, canastro in Orense, cabeceiro or canizo in the Vigo estuary , piorno in Salnés. Generally, however, you will hear them referred to as hórreos. Hórreos are also known as horriu, horru, horriu, hurriu, hórreo, paneira, cabazo, caniço, hôrreo, and garea, garaia, or garaixea (Basque.)

Hórreos are built of wood or stone, depending on location.

They can be short or long. The longest hórreo in Galicia is located in Carnota, A Coruña, and is 35 meters long.

Here is a photo of a very long one:



According to location, they can be built rectangular, square, or even round.



On the Camino you will see at least two round structures built of woven sticks like basketwork. These are called cabaceiras and serve the same purpose.




The hórreo roof can be thatched, tiled, slate, pitched or double pitched.



The oldest known hórreos are from the 15th century.

These days, hórreos are almost always protected by most local governments, which means if you purchase a property with an old hórreo on it, you are not allowed to tear it down.

Other interesting structures you will see on the Camino are dovecotes. These are called palomares and are almost always round. You will see a lot of these around Boadilla.






From a blog by Allison Reid:

Doves and pigeons were an important resource in the Middle Ages, valued primarily for their meat, eggs, and feathers. Falconries used them as quarry, and their guano was a highly sought-after fertilizer. In southern Europe, it was spread on hemp fields and vineyards. In Northern Europe, it was said that pigeon guano was worth ten loads of any other type of fertilizer.

Until the 1600s, strict laws forbid anyone other than the nobility or monasteries from keeping doves and pigeons. Though some castles and manors had built-in nesting boxes, for the most part these birds were housed in freestanding structures called dovecotes. They were round, stone buildings with either a domed or conical-shaped roof. The round shape made it easier for people to collect young doves or pigeons (squabs) from the nesting boxes. Squabs were considered a delicacy.


The inside of the building had a large open space, with ledges or cubicles jutting out from the walls. Pigeons would enter and exit from openings just beneath the roof. The nests could be accessed with a ladder attached to a revolving pole called a potence.

There is some evidence that pigeons were also used for communication, but only after exposure to Middle Eastern practices during the crusades. For the most part Western Europeans had no concept of how birds migrated. (They thought that Swallows hibernated during the winter in the mud beneath ponds.) The use of homing pigeons to communicate over long distances didn’t become common throughout all of Europe until after the medieval era. However, those regions that continued to trade and communicate with the Arab world during and after the crusades began to build networks of homing pigeons. The Republic of Genoa was the most notable of these, and built towers for that purpose along the Mediterranean Sea.


Pigeons were able to deliver messages relatively reliably and quickly over hundreds of miles from their home. By feeding them in one location, and nesting them in another, they could be trained to fly back and forth between two locations. But more often, once they were released and delivered their messages, pigeons had to be transported back and forth by cart. This method of communication was not without its limitations, however. Any message sent by pigeon had to be very short, and the receiver on the other end would have to be literate enough to read it. Such messages could also be intercepted by trained falcons and hawks, or by archers.
***

ROLLOS DE JUSTICIA:


Another structure you will see, often in the village square is a column called a Rollo de Justicia. These are often topped with a ball or a cross. Sometimes there will be iron rings in the structure.

What are the rollos?  The rollos represented the administrative category of the place, built only in the villages that had full jurisdiction, indicating the regime to which it was subjected: councilor, ecclesiastical or monastic lordship. It marked the territorial limit and, in certain cases, was a commemorative monument of the concession of the town.

The rollos were also used as "pillories", although their functions in the Middle Ages were different. A pillory was the place where criminals were exposed to public shame, often by public whipping. The iron rings were used to hold the prisoner by rope or chain. Rollos were also a place where the dead bodies or heads of criminals were hung as a warning.

Though the Cortes of Cádiz promulgated a Decree in 1813 ordering, at the request of the city councils themselves, the demolition of all signs of vassalage, many remain as historical objects and are protected.

One of the most photographed along the Camino is the one you will see in Boadilla.

Monday, November 28, 2022

Pickpockets and Crime on The Way

When I was a young girl, learning to use my grandmother's wringer washer, she told me a horror story about a girl who got her hair caught in the wringer, and it "pulled all her hair out of her head, all the way from the roots!"  It scared the snot out of me, and I never did laundry again without tying up my hair.

Whether or not that really happened, it was her way of teaching me .. grabbing my attention. I never in my entire 70 years have met a person who got their hair caught in a washing machine wringer. But I've always remembered the lesson.


So here is a lesson for you along the same lines as the one my grandmother taught me. It is here to get your attention and to teach you. Hopefully, you will "tie your hair up" and never have to experience any of the bad luck I'm about to report.

Although we rarely hear of crime on the Camino Santiago, it does occur. Generally it is petty theft or pickpocketing. Often it occurs because the victim is totally unaware or distracted. 

Often it happens on the pilgrims layover stops, large cities, in and around places where tourists gather, such as airports, bus and train stations, museums, and other tourist destinations. There is a lot of crime going on around large tourist attractions such as the Louvre or the Forum. Paris is notorious for pickpockets and theft. Rome is another hotbed of petty crime.

In Spain, the Civil Guard is very good to protect pilgrims on the Camino and there are high prices for robbing or hurting them, so those cases are rare. But they do happen to distracted people who make silly mistakes.


So here are a few stories 
to keep your Spidey-Sense keen.
Pay attention, Peregrinos, and you'll be fine!

Thieves have had centuries 
to perfect their techniques. 
They are simple and they work. 
Here are a few.

"The Sandwich" has many faces. Basically, you're walking along, and the person in front of  you suddenly stops. This might be on a sidewalk, on an escalator, on stairs, or in a car or bus. It's usually best accomplished in a crowd. You bump into the person in front of you, and the guy directly behind you is stealing your goods.  Here is an illustration:

Good thieves watch tourists closely to learn where they are stashing their valuables.  In Naples one year, I saw a woman walking along the street in front of me with her backpack on. In about 30 seconds, before any of us had time to react, a man who had apparently been watching her and saw her put her passport and cash into the pocket of her backpack walked up behind her, slashed open the pocket with a razor knife, grabbed her cash and passport, and ran. She didn't even know it had happened until we all yelled. He was not caught.


Another technique is "The Drop."  Some pickpockets play on compassion in their distractions. Someone, often an older man or woman, "accidentally" drops a handful of change or shopping bags on the ground. The target, a nice tourist, stops to help them pick up their stuff. While the mark is kneeling on the ground with the first pickpocket, another member of the team steals his or her wallet. 

At the beach, one member of the team may pretend to be in trouble in the water. When the mark runs in to help out, another member of the team walks off with whatever the mark has left on the beach.

Sometimes, pickpockets don't want to distract you from your money; they want to bring your attention to it. For example, one member of a pickpocket team might yell out "Somebody just stole my wallet!" in a crowded subway station. Most people's automatic reaction is to make sure they still have their own wallet and valuables, so they'll pat whatever pocket it's in. This makes the pickpockets' job a lot easier -- it shows them exactly where to look.

It's difficult to spot every pickpocket, no matter how careful you are, because pickpockets generally camouflage themselves. They also come in all ages. Nice older gentlemen in suits that look like your grandpa, young children who have been expertly trained, etc. Many dress like wealthy businessmen and women. Some even mimic tourists, their prime targets; others carry babies, who they use to hide what their hands are doing.


Which brings me to the BABY tactic.  A woman will suddenly come up to you and THRUST a baby into your arms. Distracted, you grab the child and while your hands are busy holding the baby, she is busy picking your pockets.  My advice is to back up and let the kid hit the ground!

Stay aware of who is behind you!

Be aware while boarding trains and buses. Hold your valuables in front of you, tightly. Do not put anything of value behind you or in pockets. Above is a photo of pickpockets working a bus line in Istanbul.

Children are often taught the skill.  In fact, 95% of the pickpockets in Spain are children as those under 14 can not be prosecuted.






Are the people above just numb?
No, they are distracted.

Many of the thieves in Spain are Gypsies. They live in horrid conditions. I highly recommend this BBC show on Gypsy Child Thieves in Spain, Italy, and other European destinations  It is shocking, but worth watching. There are 4 or 5 parts.  Gypsy Child Thieves



Often, you will see a child, woman or man sitting on the street begging silently. Sometimes their head is bowed to the ground. This is a scam. While you are digging for cash to give her, her friend is watching to see where you keep the money. You have just become a target. You'll often notice an older woman sitting like this outside the Cathedral in Santiago.

Another scam is a person, often a teen, who will thrust a photo or sign under your chin or into your waist. Again, while you're trying to get the danged thing down from beneath your throat, she or an accomplice will be frisking you.

Once, while Joe and I were riding a sardine-packed bus in Rome, a man suddenly began making gagging noises as though he was going to vomit.  Then he did! He puked about a gallon of water right in the middle of the crowded bus. Of course, everyone jumped back and packed in tight, screaming. The bus stopped, the doors opened, and a few people jumped off. In about 15 seconds, there were several shouts of "I've been robbed!" or "My purse or wallet is gone!"  That diversion gave the thieves what they were looking for... time to steal and run. So if something like this happens, pay attention!

Another time at a Portuguese street fair, Joe and I were walking together like the two men above. I suddenly noticed a strange hand out of the corner of my eye gently moving into Joe's side pocket of his cargo pants. Since we were a couple then and I was HOLDING Joe's hand, I knew the hand wasn't his so I instantly reached down and SMACKED that hand away. When I turned around, it was a couple of young men who laughed and said, "What?"  I yelled for the police and they ran. But they were very bold and if I had not been aware of that hand, Joe could have lost the day's cash.


NEVER, NEVER, NEVER put your cash and passport behind you in your backpack. You MUST wear a money belt in Europe. Take out the day's cash in the morning before you leave your hotel. Put it in a small wallet or pocket where you can easily access it. Do not flash cash around and NEVER EVER get into your money belt in public. Be smart and you'll be fine.


TAXI SCAMS.
The first time I visited Portugal, I paid the taxi driver 20 Euros to take me to my hostal. Upon arrival, I commented to the desk-clerk about the high price. She quickly informed me the price should have been TWO Euros, not 20!!  So, before you travel, ask around about what you might be expected to pay for your trip from airport to hotel. Agree to the price up front, before you enter the cab and before your luggage is loaded.  A little knowledge goes a long way.

In Spain, the taxi fares are regulated by the government, and often are posted on the dashboard of the taxi. It's not like Mexico where you can haggle. Just pay the price because the taxi next to it will be charging the same price. HOWEVER, the fee is for the entire taxi, not per person, so the more people you can get into a taxi, the less it will cost each person.

There are hard-times all over the world right now, so people are doing petty crime that may not normally happen. Rick Steves states:

Tourists are targeted by scam and rip-off artists everywhere in Europe. If you know the games (spilling the mustard, bus 64 in Rome, and so on), you're less likely to be a victim.
By sharing the latest scams (and learning from each others' mistakes) we'll all travel more safely. 

For the sake of being aware, here are a few more of the more current Tourist Scams reported  on Rick Steves' website. And since this post was probably written several years ago, it's worth going to Rick Steves' website and checking out the latest scams reported before you travel.

THE HELPER
Train Station Scam - Be WARY of nicely dressed people wanting to "help" you.
I took my family, five of us, on a European vacation a few years and we got scammed at a Paris train station. We traveled from London to Paris via the Chunnel and when we arrived my wife went to a wall which had listings of ways to get here and there. We were going to a hotel and wanted to use the subway and  while she was looking at the info a nicely dressed man, coat and tie, approached and asked if he could help. She told him where we were going and he told her that he could save us money by purchasing the amount of tickets we needed using a card he had. He asked how many days , [INVALID]ed his card and and gave us the round trip tickets for three days and we paid him something like $175 US. We thanked him and left. The next day we were all going to go sightseeing and when we got to the subway and tried to enter were told the passes didn't work and, in fact, they were only one way tickets. I went back to the train station to find the guy and saw at least twenty guys doing the same scam to others. I literally spent four hours with no rest telling travelers who were just about to get fleeced about the scam and they were mostly thankful, but the gypsies were not happy. They threatened me from all sides but I had no time to talk to them as I was busting their scam. It was fun, actually. The police came by once and asked me if I thought that the guy that ripped me off would return and I said it didn't matter as I felt I was getting my money back by helping fellow travelers. One remarked that we have thieves in the US and I said yes but it wasn't so rampant and the police don't just ignore the problem. (That was pre-Covid - things have changed here since) They left, wishing me good luck. As far as I'm concerned everybody from the police down to the ticket takers at the subway stations are in on the scam as the problem is monumental. After four hours of constant effort I had lunch and decided to join my family. While leaving I saw the fellow who scammed us preparing to put his card in a machine to "save" a lady tourist and I got my revenge, but that's a story for another day. Be careful over there. There's so much to see and it's sad that this crap is allowed to continue, I had visited Paris several times prior to that visit but have no desire to return ever again.
Tom
Brooksville, Fl  USA   09/05/2011


BE WARY OF THE "PLEASE SIGN THIS PETITION SCAM"
This scam is really popular in Paris, near the Louvre, but is taking off in other areas. There is a group of girls on the Camino who are almost always there, asking for signatures. Sometimes they pretend to be deaf. Wave them away and don't let them get close to you!

If someone approaches you and asks you to sign their petition, wave them off with a firm and LOUD "NO!" and keep walking. Do not worry about being rude... This next incident was unusual, in my opinion, but worth being aware of if you have plans to stop in Paris on your way to Bayonne.

Sacre Coeur Paris Petition Scam
Been to Paris many times and have never encountered what happened this week. At the Sacre Coeur broad daylight 3.30pm came up the main front steps to be met by many of the bracelet/ring guys- a sharp no and they leave you alone. Enjoyed food etc at the top of sacre coeur and decided to go down the other side only to be surrounded by about ten Roma gypsy teenagers with their petitions, again a sharp no and I thought I would be on my way. Two of the girls grabbed me and twisted my arms behind my back trying to get me to let go of my small travel pocket bag and managed to go through my coat pockets and steal my iPhone. They also attacked my twelve year old daughter who after I was attacked I had to  pick her up of the floor- all very scary. These girls are animals. They are willing not only to pick pocket but to attack you. I am glad that myself and my daughter walked away with a stolen phone and bruises- it could have been a lot worse. French police were very good and very understanding but told me this happens all the time. If you see these girls with their petitions walk/run in the opposite direction.
VM
USA   02/18/2012


The next two people should not be surprised that they were robbed, in my opinion. You absolutely should NEVER put down a purse, bag, suitcase, or backpack holding valuable items. Thieves are watching you, Mr. Tourist, and just waiting for you to make a stupid mistake like these two did...

Handbag stolen at Galeries Lafayette, Paris

I was shopping at Galeries Lafayette in Paris today, where I got my handbag stolen (wallet, passport etc.) I was trying on shoes in -1 floor, where I set my bag down next to me (it was in the way). 5 seconds later when I was about to pick it up again, it was already gone.
Unbelievable...I didn't ever think a fancy department store was a place to worry about getting my purse stolen but apparently it happens ALL THE TIME. It is exactly the same sentiment I have and the fact that shoppers let their guard down, which makes Lafayette a great place for thieves. Don't EVER let your bag go and keep your guard up at places that you would otherwise feel relaxed.
J Dubbs
Paris, France   01/27/2012


...I was in Santa Maria de Vittorio today in Roma to see Bernini sculpture... I was reading about it on my Kindle Fire.... then I set my bag down, and walked away about 20 feet, I put in .50 Euro and turned on light and took 5-6 photos.... when I came back to seat.... my Kindle Fire was gone !! I had noticed some seedy character in the church but I was so close to the bag, I though it was OK.... those few minutes I took my eye off it,,, guy grabbed the Kindle. I do know better but was a bit jet lagged... Be careful,, they're waiting and will take advantage in a church !
S. Trato
St. Thomas, VI  USA   01/24/2012


The following scam was very familiar to me, as I got hit with it about 40 years ago when I lived in St. Croix. In my case, a man and two women stopped by the hotel reception desk where I was working. The man said he worked with my husband. He knew my husband's name. He knew we were moving. He said he had offered to let my husband use his truck and was coming to help him on Saturday. He was very well dressed and very sweet. They left. About an hour later, he showed up again and was distressed. He had left his wallet at home, and they were short grocery cash. Would I loan him $50? He would pay my husband tomorrow at work. ($50 fifty years ago was a LOT of money!)  I loaned him the money, then the minute he left, I began feeling stupid. I called my husband at work. He'd never heard of the guy. Oh boy, did I catch it when I got home!  I still have no  idea how this guy got all the personal information he knew about us.

Champs Elysees Money Scam
I was walking on the Champs Elysees near the Arc du Triomphe when I was approached by a Chinese couple who appeared to be quite distressed. The man asked if I was American, did I speak English? I said yes, I did. The man proceeded to tell me that his wife had spotted a Louis Vuitton handbag at a shop across the boulevard, but the store would not take his money because they were Chinese. His wife was heartbroken, he was desperate. Would I please go in and buy the handbag for his wife? He had Euros and promised immediate reimbursement. This was a scam that I'd not heard of but caught onto right away. I was pretty obvious that he wanted me to buy a very expensive bag with my good money and rip me off by "paying me back" with bogus Euros. Needless to say, I said "No" and walked away. When I looked back they had targeted another American. Remember: if the story sounds wrong, looks wrong, and feels wrong it is wrong.
Susan
Port Townsend, WA  USA   01/06/2012

  
Here's another example of a desperate thief:

Desperate "Canadian Jewish banker" around the Nord, Paris
It was 7pm, I had just gotten off the Eurostar from London at Nord in Paris and was approached by a guy who claimed to a Jewish Canadian banker who was visiting Paris with his girlfriend and three children. Here's the rundown of his brilliant sob story: - His gf messed up the credit card pincode 3 times and now their card was locked and they did not have enough cash for a hotel that night. - His friend has wired money but Credit Union and the Canadian Embassy is closed for the evening. - A small hotel down the street has agreed to let them stay for 65euro for the night and could I please help him with anything? - He offered his watch and a copy of his passport and swore on the Torah and his child that he would pay me back. - But later when I asked for his passport he claimed it was with his gf who was looking after the children in a cafe, and that she would freak out if he took me there as "she was on her period" and was very upset. (!) - He found out I lived in Tokyo and said he used to live there once, in Ginza (the ritziest place in Tokyo) but anyone can remember a few place names to rattle off in these situations. I could tell that his story was full of holes but he kept begging me with his eyes full of tears and I think I was overwhelmed by his display of emotions. I was tired and had just woken up in the Eurostar, and I thought "What if he WAS telling the truth?" - I argued with him about the passport situation, that I needed some sort of legal ID, but he cut me off and begged me with such pitiful force that somebody should have given him an Oscar on the spot. - But I could see his face was twitching as he spoke, ANYBODY could have seen that the guy was conning me, and I could have just walked away but by then I felt I was trapped and had to help him out someway. 

Here's a tip to remember: IT'S NOT YOUR PROBLEM!! You are NOT the right person to help this person. 

- So I asked for his contact details, where he lived and worked in Toronto, e-mail address, and he gave them to me - all of them bull (if I had a smartphone with internet connection I could have checked them out on the spot!) - In the end, stupidly, I took some money out of the ATM and he gave me a long hug before I managed to pull him off me. - I asked for the watch and he almost reluctantly gave it to me - as I suspected, it's a cheap fake with "Chalisson" on the face. Googling it only brings up replica sites and I've tossed it into the bin. This happened in the last few hours of my 12 day stay in Europe (just arrived home today), I think I had let me guard down and it's put a damper on my memories. I've been thinking about the experience and can just say it was an expensive lesson but will be one I will remember always. If the guy needed money, he could have told me the truth and I still may have given him some. All that is left now is karma. Hopefully somebody who reads this will be able to prevent it from happening to them.
Nik
Tokyo, Japan   12/06/2011


Rosemary sprigs in Spain
This one usually happens around the Cathedrals in the larger Spanish cities. I saw it many times in Sevilla. Gypsy ladies will hand you a Rosemary sprig. If you TOUCH it, you must pay them...and then they will grab your hand and want to tell your fortune. While you wrestle your arm back, their other hand is picking your pockets.  My advice... avoid ladies bearing Rosemary sprigs! Walk a wide berth.

Please be careful when using the ATM, especially in busy cities. You must stay absolutely alert. Cover your hands while putting in your pin number. Hold your hand close to the machine, ready to receive your cash and your card. Thieves have the keypad memorized and know what numbers you are punching in. They can see from a distance. If they get your card, they have your pin, so be aware.  If you are traveling with a friend, stand back to back, with them facing the rear. If you are alone, keep your goods in front of you and refuse to speak to anyone until your transaction is complete and your cash and card are tightly in your hand. Don't help anyone. Let a local help them.

ATM scam in Paris
While at an ATM in Paris, the guy at the neighboring ATM asks you a question, saying he doesn't understand what his screen is telling him. Meanwhile he or his friend is taking the currency your ATM is dispensing. Moral: use only "single" ATMs, in an uncrowded area, and pay strict attention.
Jerry
Denver, Colora  USA   01/05/2012


Half-off at the Travel exchange
Came across this one in Amsterdam/Schipol and to my horror (almost) again atLondon/Heathrow. It works like this - you want to exchange $$ for local currency. The TravelEx employee dutifully counts your money out - all the while engaging you in conversation and asking questions which means you're paying attention to them NOT their hands. When you check your money it appears to be all correct BUT upon closer inspection one of the high value notes will have been replaced by a 'half note' at the end you've been counting....the open end of the envelope. I caught this (the second time) by holding the base of the envelope tightly and waggling it upside down for a couple of seconds. Sure enough the 100-pound note top half fell out. I tried to get the TRavelex supervisor to accept a complaint, but all they did was treat it as an honest mistake' ("we get SO much money through her sir, mistakes often happen") and replace the half note with a whole one. I'd say from the shifty/guilty look on the tellers' face he was more embarrassed at being caught than he was worried about legal or job repercussions. He only has to pull off two of those scams an hour and he pockets the (unused, whole) bill on his next bathroom break. I've shared this tale of woe with others who've had similar experiences with 'half currency' in high denomination notes at European money exchange booths. Traveler beware!
Tony Cox
Dublin, oh  USA   09/21/2011


Old Lady Pickpocket - This one DID happen in Spain!
My husband and I were strolling down Las Ramblas in Barcelona when a little old gypsy lady popped in front of us and shoved a sign about " being hungry" under my husband's chin. He was wearing a money belt (of course!), but had on a jacket with a front chest pocket that looked like a wallet was inside. It was actually a coupon book and the pocket was closed with velcro. As the old woman was holding the sign with one hand, she was trying to open the pocket with the other. My husband heard the velcro and felt the hand and immediately shoved her arm. Right away he told me what happened and I started pointing and shouting "Thief! Voleur!" (we were in Spain, but I couldn't think of the Spanish word, so I just used French - ha). She starts in about how 'he hurt her arm' and I just kept yelling and pointing. (before you think how mean I am, I'm no spring chicken myself, being now 64) At that point she gave me the dirtiest look I've ever received - and proceeded to try and get away from us. We continued to follow her across Las Ramblas (don't ask me why - I don't know what we'd have done if her family had been around the corner), but finally stopped following when she darted down an alley. If she had been a man, my husband probably would have slugged him, but the culprits seem to know that most people are not going to hit an old "defenseless" woman.

And something else to keep in mind - yes, it's annoying to be accosted and perhaps conned out of a few euros, but it could be worse. How about getting mugged in a U.S. city or shot and killed by someone with a gun?! At least these scammers don't use physical violence or parade around with lethal weapons. Think about that before freaking out about the stuff that goes on in Europe!
trudy
San Antonio, TX  USA   08/31/2011


Madrid - This was at Madrid subway ticket counter.(Remember, I  mentioned this one?)
Some young men/kids one about 20 and the other about 15 years old. One drops a fist full of worthless pennies or change right at my feet. Oddly, this guy get on all fours trying to frantically gather his last pennies in the whole wide world and then moves closer to me and lefts my feet up (in an innocent kind of way) he's got me by the bottom of my pants leg, I get this strange feeling that makes me want to put my knee in to his ribs, so I bend over -bend my knees a little (so he does not pick me up and slam my butt to the ground) and tell him to let go, as I back up to gain the angle and upper hand, I bump in to some on at my rear.. ok they take off. few minutes later I realize my wallet is missing. they got one dollar and the credit card company would not let them charge anything.. still a pain. 

That night, we go out to dinner= walk in to a restaurant, and the kind gentleman takes my mother in laws coat to hang it in a safe place, (earlier I saw her put $20 dollars in a safe inner pocket.) When the coat comes back the money is gone.
(Note: Don't leave cash in coat pockets, silly!)
Charley
Houston, Tx  USA   05/10/2011


Throwing dirt on the back of your shirt in Seville
When we were in Spain two years ago, hubby and I were walking in Seville; I was in front of him. All of the sudden, he felt something on his back, I looked and his shirt had big brown spots on it. A man came to us, made some motion looking up, as if to say, birds did it. Offered to help, noting a bathroom in a nearby restaurant. We went, hubby went in bathroom with man, another man was there and when they were trying to get the stuff off, one tried to pick his pocket. Thank goodness, the wallet fell on the floor, and when hubby retrieved it, both men left in a hurry...we are seasoned travelers and really got sucked in..new rule...never be separated and NEVER accept help from a stranger...no harm done and we learned a big lesson.
sarabeth
woodland hills, Ca.  USA   05/03/2011


Madrid: Scam and Barcelona: Scam
 (Note from Annie: I also had this one done with makeup in Barcelona - luckily I had read this post)
 Going to the Madrid train station to get to Barcelona. Walking into the station, my wife is 10-15 feet ahead of me and a guy walking past me says I have something on my backpack. I don't let him near me but I look at my bag and see all this white cream. Thought it was bird poop for a second but then this guy magically had a load of napkins on him and was trying to help. Then another guy came up with napkins and I called out to my wife. Fortunately, she was loud and got them to go away but it haunts me because I totally let go of my luggage to deal with my bag. I grew up in San Francisco - I'm wary of bums and lowlifes. I also walk with a big chip on my shoulder and am unfriendly to most strangers. This just really caught me off guard.
Loved Spain otherwise and had a great time!
Jerkey
Los Angeles, CA  USA   02/17/2011



Passport Thieves in Spain.  It is HIGHLY unlikely you will ever be asked to see your passport on the street, while in Spain. If that does happen, DO NOT HAND IT OVER. REFUSE and yell for the police!

This warning came from the State Department's website. "There have been reports of thieves posing as plainclothes police officers, beckoning to pedestrians from cars and sometimes confronting them on the street asking for documents, or to inspect their cash for counterfeit bills, which they ultimately confiscate as "evidence."
Brenda
Washington, DC  USA   12/20/2010


Fresh off a pick pocketing incident in Barcelona (Remember the Petition Scam - this is often used by groups of teen girls on the Camino Santiago!)
I am actually in Barcelona currently, just having arrived yesterday. My parents had warned me about pickpockets here from their trip last year, when their friend was pick-pocketed. The funny and sad story they told me was that the thief actually handed back the wallet to the startled friend sans cash and ran away, since the police had apparently seen him in the act.
So before my trip, being intrigued I read up quite a bit on the scams used these days. That did get me a bit more paranoid than usual. I scolded myself for reading too many of these articles. I am an experienced traveler and I had to remind myself to to trust humankind and my instincts and experience. When discussing the same topic, some Spanish colleagues (not from Barcelona) also assured me that Barcelona is very safe. Just in case, before going out today I took some precautions by splitting up my money and keeping the essential cards and passport inside hidden pockets. It helps that it is cold and I had to wear a jacket with secure pockets inside.So while I survived intact today, unfortunately I could not prevent the theft of a money purse from a young tourist girl in front of me in line for tickets at the Sagrada Familia. 

The scam involved two boys and a girl asking for a petition to be signed to help Dumb and Deaf children. They approached the young woman in front of me and very passionately started asking her to sign the petition. As she did it, I spotted the two boy's eyes roving and observing the young woman's bag. They were standing very close to her and one was even stroking her shoulder and telling her how nice she was.They then starting asking her for a money donation. Surprisingly, she pulled out her wallet from her zippered purse on her side, with the boys eagerly helping her look for coins. I quickly stepped in at that point to prevent the inevitable from occurring and told her to keep the wallet away. She looked confused and I tried telling her that it was likely a scam. Unfortunately the young lady did not understand English and ignored me and continued picking through her wallet. At that point I was pushed back and obstructed by the third accomplice - the young girl with the same clipboard insisting on having me signing the petition as well. I raised my voice and backed away. From the corner of my eye I spotted one of the boys hiding the wallet under his clipboard. I have no idea how they managed to extract it from the young woman with so much ease. I reached out and grabbed one of wrists of the boy and with my other hand struggled to get past the girl with the clip board to get to the wallet. The boy deftly passed the purse on to the other boy. As I tred to get to the second boy who now held the prize, the first one managed to wriggle away from my grip. Unfortunately all three managed to get past the several tourists who just stood around dumbly staring at the spectacle. All three ran off so fast that there was no hope for me to compete - I'm not exactly a spritely young kid anymore even if I imagine myself to be one ;-). Once the tourist young woman realized what was happening, she did make a futile attempt to chase them, but they were long gone. 

Unfortunately I could not talk to the tourist girl. I did spot her after, walking away crying after she had apparently tried to report the incident to the cop standing right at the corner. I wish I would've had a chance to talk to her and to express my regret for not doing better to prevent this theft It crazy to think about this now, but the whole thing actually lasted just a few seconds, but perhaps if I had held the boy's wrist tighter, or good involved sooner...
In any case it is my hope that posting this story here will be my redemption. Hopefully this story will help someone else from falling for the same scam. 

I have one more day to go in Barcelona. Let's see what tomorrow brings...
SmartTraveler
Montreal, Quebec  Canada   11/20/2010


Pay particular attention 
when riding a crowded bus or train.
It is prime picking for pickpockets!


I once watched a sweet old woman deftly slip her fingers into a woman's purse, while exchanging small-talk with the woman! I warned her, to the thief's dismay. The victim was very surprised!   These pickpockets often board with a coat or sweater over one arm to hide their hands. They also often look like your grandma or grandpa!

These are some VERY good tips from a fellow traveler:

First of all, not traveling because of a fear of pickpockets and scams is foolish. It's more so about being smart. Keep an eye on who is around you, in front of you, etc., especially in very touristy areas.

Rome/Paris experiences:
1) Men, wear pants with tight pockets (if it's impossible for me to get my own wallet out without leaning forward, it will be nearly impossible to get pick pocketed). If you're wearing slacks, keep your effects in a money belt, under them. 

2) NEVER sit on the metro or in public with your iPhone or iPod out, playing music or whatever. People will scope you out, distract you, and steal it. Keep the device out of sight. 

3) NEVER put valuables in a backpack on your back and then stand in a crowded piazza or metro and wonder why you're missing things later. 

4) NEVER stop for anyone in the street, even if they speak English. Just pretend you have no idea what they're saying and walk on, hands on your pockets or on your bag. If you're pestered, just say "NO!" loudly and firmly and continue walking. Never stop. 

5) NEVER let anyone help you with anything, luggage or whatever. If they don't steal it they well might hold it ransom for some quick cash. 

6) When you go through the ticket validator machines for the subway, make sure nobody tries to follow you through and skip the fare. They will often shove into you and try to steal something. When on a crowded subway train keep your back to a door or a wall, avoid standing in the middle. If you have to stand in any crowd, be vigilant. 

I have personally encountered the signature/petition scam several times, just walk on and say "NO!" firmly. 
Traveler
Boston, MA  USA   11/17/2011


Saying "NO!" firmly is something you may want to practice before leaving home. I once had to say it 5 times, and finally SHOUT it at a gypsy woman in Rome who was begging. They use "the voice" in a sing-song almost hypnotic manner, and many people succumb. Don't.  Practice saying "NO!"

Things to watch for if you're visiting Rome
I'm living in Rome for the year. It's been an absolutely wonderful experience so far and nothing bad has happened to me, but here are the scams I've noticed at work: 

1) First rule of thumb: almost anyone who talks to you is trying to scam you. Don't respond. If they ask you if you speak English, ignore them. If you want to go that extra mile to shut them up, I've found "No, Finlandese!" works well as a response. No one speaks Finnish... 

2) Around heavy tourist areas, (especially Trevi Fountain) expect someone to try giving the girl in your party a flower. After you refuse, they'll persist and say, "you take, it's for you, for good luck." Say "NO" firmly until they leave. Don't touch the flower.

3) Be especially wary of the younger (aged 20s and 30s) men with dogs. These guys have struck me as a little more unbalanced than the rest of the beggars and scammers. I had one follow me into a grocery store and continually talk to my back, even though I'd never even done so much as make eye contact with the guy.  I wasn't listening to his pleas for most of the time, but after a while of my ignoring him, he had the audacity to yell at me in Italian, "what, you don't even respond to me?" Then he shouted "maleducato!" over and over again, which means "you are rude." So, DO ignore their existence, but I wouldn't respond aggressively or indignantly.

4) If someone asks you for help and they don't obviously appear to be an American or European tourist who actually needs it, ignore them. They're trying to scam you, and what could you as a tourist possibly do to help a local, anyway? Be especially on the lookout to be harassed if you're speaking English in your party, if you're handling a map, or if you're entering/exiting a place that implies you're spending money (stores, museums, restaurants, banks etc.)

5) Obviously, you shouldn't buy anything from a street vendor (the ones at the legitimate street markets are fine... I'm talking about the ones scattered throughout the city, and that line all the bridges). They scam, and they only sell garbage, anyway. Plus, there are so many fantastic stores in Rome. I haven't found them to be very pushy, though. They're just mostly chatting with each other or on cell phones, but if you look at their merchandise for more than a split second, they'll probably be on you. Really, you don't need to look though - it's garbage.

6) As others have said, avoid those trying to get you to sign a petition (one very shady-looking young man near the Vatican was asked me to sign to "stop drugs.") 

7) Verify the bill and count your change at restaurants. The theft (or careless inexactness, if you prefer to give them the benefit of the doubt) will often be small and subtle, but it's there. My last two times at restaurants (one of which was at a very nice place where my party got into a long and fun conversation in Italian with one of the waiters) the bill was too high. These problems were fixed without incident when it was pointed out. My experience was that with a large party, they got the number of bottles of water and wine for the table wrong.

8) Don't let crippled gypsies tug at your heartstrings (I know that sounds heartless). Unfortunately, you have no way of knowing who's actually disabled, and many of them aren't. There's one older woman who is regularly outside of Santa Maria's in Trastevere who walks funny, covers her face and stares at the ground while pointing her cup at you. Several hours after seeing her do her schtick, I saw her (quite vigorously and physically ably) shouting down another beggar at the other end of the block (a guy who just sits on the ground with a cup... blocking traffic) who was encroaching on her territory. Quite the different language from the "please" and "god bless you, beautiful" I heard her using in front of the church.

9) People will try to "help" you at a train station (any train station, not just Termini) if you look hesitant about anything for even a second. They're not trying to help. They're trying to scam you or pickpocket you. Ignore, or say "no" very forcefully.

10) There's really nothing remarkably different here from the States - different scams, but same rules apply. Having a stoic look on your face solves 90% of the problems. Don't stop or even slow down if they're talking to you, avoid eye contact, and say "NO" very firmly if they really aren't leaving you alone. You can always yell "vai via" or "polizia!" if things are really out of hand, but that is very very unlikely to happen. I've actually found these beggars' begging skills really amateur compared to what I'm used to in Los Angeles and New York... the good ones there have some real manipulative skills I haven't seen here. Colin
Rome, Italy, NY  USA   10/15/2011


So here we are. 
Let's sum this up.

Make it hard to get to your valuables. 
Do not carry your wallet in your back pocket. Front pockets are safer. 
The best option is a MONEY BELT 
under your clothes
Fanny packs are extremely vulnerable, especially when the pouch is on your back rather than your front. 
Backpacks and purses 
are very attractive to pickpockets.

Carry a photocopy of your passport 
in your pocket, 
and keep the real one in your money belt. Never give it up 
except to your hotel desk clerk 
(It is common for them to hold them overnight).

Carry an easily accessible "dummy" wallet 
in your pocket or purse 
so pickpockets never seek out your real wallet.

Keep a list of credit card numbers 
and phone numbers in a separate safe place. 
This makes it a lot easier 
to straighten everything out 
if somebody does steal from you.

If you're traveling with a friend, 
consider spread out your money, 
credit cards and identification between you.

Never take out your money belt in public. 
Only do this in your hotel room
or in a bathroom.

Never leave valuables in your hotel.

On the Camino,
when you take a bath or shower, 
carry your money belt 
into the bathroom with you. 
I always carry a large zip-lock back 
and I actually take my money belt 
into the shower with me.


Be cautious of any attention-grabbing event, however innocuous it may seem.

Don’t stand on the street when opening a map: Find a seat in a cafe or a bench.

This is not the time to exhibit your hugginess. Anyone coming close to you is suspect, but it is almost impossible to avoid physical contact while getting on or off a train/subway, which is why those are prime pick-pocketing times, so the best you can do then is be aware of your surroundings and make sure your valuables are not in easy-to-access spots.

So now.. go watch the video. Then, if you're still not convinced, spend some time perusing Rick Steves' Tourist Scam page.  The following link will redirect you to the tourist scam page.

Known scams on the Camino:

1. There is a group of teens, usually girls, who hang out on the trail. They will sometimes pretend to be deaf and will ask you to give them cash or sign a petition. Wave them off. If they persist, shout NO! and keep walking. Don't stop and don't let them get close.

2. This has only happened once to my knowledge, but it's a good example of why you should NOT leave your cash/credit cards in your pack at night when sleeping in an albergue. In O Cebreiro a couple of years ago, someone let off smoke bombs in the middle of the night. People panicked and ran out of the albergue. When the smoke cleared and they returned, many had been robbed of cash/credit cards, electronics cameras, etc. they had left in their backpacks. The thieves were long gone.   WEAR YOUR MONEY BELT TO BED. Do not put it under your pillow. 

3. Don't be too trusting of other "nice pilgrims" you meet on the trail. You don't know them. On my first Camino, Joe and I met a lovely young man in Pamplona. His Camino was cut short because he and his 2 friends had trusted a "nice pilgrim lady" they met on the trail. She offered to watch their packs while they showered. Unfortunately, they had left their cash and credit cards in their packs. When they returned from showering, the nice older lady and their cash was long gone. Their Camino was over. 

4. This one happens a lot on the drawbridge entering Pamplona.  A nice person will offer to take a photo of you, using your phone. They will then hop on a bicycle and pedal away and there goes your phone or camera!

So... don't be paranoid - but be cautious.

I hope this information hasn't frightened you away from traveling. It's really just a matter of being informed and staying alert. Once you have learned how to protect yourself, I hope you will put away your anxiety and have a safe and Buen Camino!

Kind Regards,
Annie




See my website at 
for more information about
Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago

Sunday, November 27, 2022

Plugging In While On the Camino

On Facebook, there has been some confusion about whether or not you need a voltage converter on the Camino, or whether a simple plug adapter will work.

Here is a quick lesson on plugging in on the Camino.

VOLTAGE:

Different countries use different voltages and frequencies of electricity. If you plug your American device that is not rated for the outlet's voltage, even if the plug fits, you could damage the device.

Electrical sockets in the United Stages usually supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts.

Spain, France and Portugal, where most pilgrims walk have sockets that supply electricity at 220 volts, much higher than ours.

Almost all chargers for phones, laptops, and tablets are dual voltage. You can find out by looking closely at the plug. For instance, ALL Apple devices are dual voltage. Here is a photo of mine. If you look closely you will see it states "INPUT 100-240V."



Rated between 100-240





The ones above state they are rated between 100-240.This means it will also work for any voltage between those two. So it will work for 100 volts and it will also work for 220 volts.

If your device is rated for use within the voltage of the country you are visiting, then all you need is a plug adapter shaped like the receptacle in that country.

The United States has plug receptacles shaped like this:



or this if the receptacle is grounded:



Spain uses a receptacle and plug like the one below:



France's receptacles have a "ground prong,"



but it is safe to bypass it with the same adapter you use in Spain:





Plug adapter for Spain


If your device does NOT automatically convert the voltage, then you will need a voltage converter similar to the ones below. But I promise you, not many people will be using hair dryers or curling irons on the Camino:




You can purchase the plugs from the Rick Steves Travel Store for $1.
That's right, ONE DOLLAR so don't go spending a bundle. Click on this link:

PLUG ADAPTER

Be very careful when purchasing a voltage converter. You will need to know specifically what voltage your appliance uses. You don't want to blow up your older laptop or tablet. Check to be sure what voltage you will need to convert to.

Hair dryers and curling irons need a higher voltage converter than some items, and it's almost cheaper just to buy a small travel version like these from Amazon that already have dual voltage built in:



Dual voltage travel hair dryer




Travel curling iron

I hope this helps you understand what you need.

Bottom line, unless you are planning on taking a very old appliance, all you most likely need is a plug adapter. These can be purchased on Amazon, on the Rick Steves website, at any travel store, and in China Stores and other stores all along the Camino.  They're cheap so buy two. People are ALWAYS forgetting to unplug them when they're finished using them.

Buen Camino!
Annie

PS: Just so you know, the small plug you use for your iPhone will not charge the Mini tablet, but the Mini tablet plug WILL charge the iPhone, so that's the one you should take.

Take this:


Not this: