 |
| Map by Rick of Rick and Peg |
Some may wonder why there are two ways from St. Jean Pied de Port in France over the border to Roncesvalles, in Spain.
According to AI:
There are two ways to walk from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles because of terrain and weather. Walkers choose between the high-altitude Napoleon Route (over the Pyrenees ridge) and the lower Valcarlos Route (through the valley).
The Napoleon Route (Route Napoleon / GR 65)
- Goes high over the mountain pass, reaching about 1,400 to 1,450 meters high.
- Offers wide, open views of the mountains and nature.
- Is very steep and hard on the body.
- Closes by local law from November 1 to March 31 due to dangerous winter snow and wind.
The Valcarlos Route
- Follows the lower river valley through the village of Valcarlos.
- Stays open all year round as the safe winter backup.
- Follows paved roads with car and truck traffic for parts of the way.
- Features sharp ups and downs through the valley, making it surprisingly tough despite being the lower option.
From "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago" by David M. Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson, a WONDERFUL book for those interested in the historical facts of the villages along the Camino Frances:
"The Puerto de Ciza road enters Spain through the easiest pass in the western Pyrenees. For the Romans, this was the Via Traiana, which linked Bordeaux with the gold mines of Astorga. Two traditional routes cross the border here.
The lower route through Valcarlos, traced by the modern highway, invited trouble since it offered many opportunities for easy ambush of travelers.
The higher route, to the east and over the high ridge, was preferred by the Romans - who hated being surprised - and by safety-minded pilgrims, and it is the route marked out as the hiking trail today and is referred to as the Napoleon Route.
Valcarlos means "The Valley of Carlos" and the Carlos it refers to is Charlemagne, whose troops fared poorly in this narrow gorge.
The 1,300 meter high Ibeñeta pass was where an 11th c. ermita belonging to the Monastery of Leyre once stood. Here also was the famous monastery and hospice of San Salvador, founded in 1127 by the bishop of Pamplona, Sancho Larrosa. Pilgrims in the mid 12th c. referred to this chapel as the Capella Caroli Magni, but by the end of the century, people had come to believe this to be where Roland sounded his horn, and renamed it the Capella Rollandi.
Today's modest chapel still has a bell to guide pilgrims on foggy days. Nearby is a modern granite monument to Roland and just below it you can see a bunker from the 1936-39 Spanish Civil War."
For a quick 9-minute speed-walk video of this route, see John Sikora's film here - watch the "X" on the screen to see where he's walking and at about 4:31, he stops to show video of the river and trail:
Speed Walk of Valcarlos Route
And here is a short video by "Passportwalletphone" showing the beautiful scenery:
Valcarlos Route
I've decided to walk the Valcarlos route for two reasons:
1. I've led groups over the Napoleon route so many times since 2012, I've lost count, so I feel like I've "been there, done that." But I've never walked the Valcarlos route. Since I'm feeling this will be my last Camino Frances (but not my last Camino!) I want to be able to say I've walked both routes.
2. My health - my lungs are damaged from Birt Hogg Dubét syndrome and I just don't have the stamina I had 10 years ago. I am doing a very slow Camino this time, walking half stages, and the Valcarlos route allows me to break up the first stage from SJPP to Roncesvalles into two nearly even days.
I hope you'll follow my blog.
I'll post as often as I can -
Buen Camino!
Annie
