All About Tapas and Pinchos

Future pilgrims often ask me, "What do you eat while on pilgrimage?"  Well, the answer for me is, "Anything they serve in Spain!"  The food there is SO good, so tasty, so healthy, I'm amazed that I lost 20 pounds on my last Camino.

There is always the Pilgrim Menu or Menu del Dia. However, I'd like to tell you a little about what I have learned about another wonderful option... TAPAS!

Even the smallest villages often have a bar and a "bar" in Spain is not the same place you think of when you say "bar" in the USA. Yes, you can buy beer, wine, and mixed drinks. But you also can get coffee, breakfast, and some pretty good eats there!

It is said the tapa originated in Andalusia as a small snack to accompany sherry. The bartender would cover the glass of sherry with a saucer (or tapa) to protect it from the flies. A good bartender would decorate the plate with a tiny savory snack, and that evolved into these luscious portions we now call tapas.

  TAPA vs. RACIÓN

Something to remember is a tapa serves one. Tapas are often called "pinchos" in southern Spain. A "ración" is a larger serving, usually for 2 to 3 people, or one hungry pilgrim! I've taken these photos from the internet. Some would be considered a "tapa" but the larger portions are definitely "raciónes."  You quickly learn the difference after ordering a time or two.

In some small villages along the Camino, tapas are still free with your drink. Sometimes I was served a plate of olives and other times salted almonds or a bit of meat. Most of the time, however, there was a menu, often written on a chalkboard, and you paid a small amount for your tapas. My advice to you is to try any tapa you see offered - take a walk on the wild side and stretch your boundaries. You are, after all, on an adventure!

But if you would like to at least have some idea of what you will be eating, following is a menu of typical tapas you might see on the Camino Santiago.

ALBONDIGAS are little meatballs. This dish is said to have originated with the Moors. Hearty and filling, they come on a plate of 3 as tapas and 7 to 9 if you order a ración.  They are made of minced pork and veal or beef. They are fried, and served either dry or swimming in a savory tomato sauce.

PATATAS BRAVAS are chunks of fried potatoes coated in a thick sauce. The sauce generally is a spicy tomato sauce but it does vary from place to place, which is why it's one of my favorites. I've seen white sauce like the one above on the potatoes. Don't pass this one by!

GAMBAS A LA PLANCHA are grilled whole shrimp. They are seasoned before grilling and very good. You just peel them and eat them with your fingers. A tapa usually has 3 shrimp. A pincho will have more.

JAMÓN SERRANO is salt-cured ham dried in the mountain air. It is considered a national treasure and in each bar you will see these whole hams hanging.

This ham deserves its own blog, it is so famous. The pigs are fed on sweet mountain acorns, making the meat very sweet and the flavor is deeper than prosciutto. The ham is shaved off in thin slices. It almost always comes with chunks of fresh baked bread. But you also may see it served on top of melon slices or in other combinations.

We saw many pigs on the Via de la Plata, their red eyes shining in the early morning darkness, their grunts startling me!

BANDERILLAS are bits and pieces of meat, vegetable, and/or fruit served threaded on toothpicks. They could consist of marinated fish, hard-boiled eggs, shrimp, olives, or just about anything!  They are sometimes served with bread or crackers. They are to be eaten in one bite, blending the flavors. A banderilla is the sharp barbed stick used to weaken the bull in bullfighting.

CALAMARES FRITOS. These are rings of squid, very lightly breaded or simply dusted with flour and deep fried. They come piled on a plate garnished with a lemon slice. Squeeze the lemon juice onto the fritos before eating. I can make a meal of these!

QUESO MANCHEGO is tangy sheep's cheese. It comes from LaMancha and is one of Spain's most popular cheese. You can buy it all along the Camino by weight and it's good in a backpack for a couple of days if you bury it in your clothing to keep it cool. It is a staple food item when I'm walking. It is served in cubes or slices with bread in the bars. It is often served in combination with jamón serrano or other meat.  Don't miss trying it! If you live near a COSTCO, they sell manchego cheese! I have a hunk in my fridge right now!

ACEITUNAS DE LA MADRILEÑA are served everywhere. Aceitunas are olives. They can be served alone or "de la Madrileña" which means in a nice vinegar/scallion/garlic marinade. I bought bags of aceitunas for under a Euro to carry in my mochila on the Camino.

MEJILLONES A LA MARINERA. These are mussels cooked in a lovely garlicky wine sauce. They may be served in the shell, on the half-shell, or shelled in a bowl of sauce. Usually served with crusty bread to soak up the sauce, eat them with a toothpick.

ENSALADILLA RUSA is a cold potato salad that can contain any combination of tuna, shrimp, potatoes, carrots, peas, peppers, or eggs. The dressing is usually mayonnaise or a home made garlic mayo.

 

CROQUETAS are a tapa you will find everywhere. The ingredients are greatly varied. The croqueta could be of fish, potato, ham, just about anything. They're little balls of food, which have been rolled in a coating and deep fried. They are always very good and filling!

SALPICÓN DE MARISCOS is a cold seafood salad. Ingredients can vary but it is almost marinated in a vinaigrette.

BOQUERONES are one of my favorites! They are tiny marinated white anchovies. Nothing like what you buy in the can, please be sure to try them! They are not "fishy" because they are fresh! Great on a slice of bread! They may come whole or filleted. Sometimes you find boquerones deep fried.

POLLO AL AJILLO is a tapa of small pieces of browned chicken, simmered in a garlic sauce. The sauce can vary. It may or may not have tomato, but no matter...it will be wonderful! Eat it with crusty bread.

TORTILLA. This is not your Mexican tortilla. This is more like a fritata or thick omelette, served in wedges or squares, alone or with ham. It has potato, onion, and sometimes other vegetables. But generally it's pretty straight forward. I love this for breakfast but it's good any time.

FRITURA DE PESCADO is a plate of fried fish and other seafood. It's a bit like tempura.

ENSALADA DE PIMIENTOS ROJOS is a wonderful salad of roasted red peppers and onions. The salad has an olive oil and vinegar dressing. Very rich. As with most tapas, it is great with crusty bread. I bought roasted peppers and put them on sandwiches for my lunch when walking the Camino.

CHORIZO is a garlicky sausage, nothing like the chorizo of Mexico. Made from acorn fed pigs, it literally melts in your mouth!  It is served in many ways. It might be simply slice don a place, as shown above, or you might get it on a slice of bread, as shown in this photo from a Sevilla tapa bar:

You also might get it in a tiny bowl with sauce, as this photo shows:

It can be served cold or hot.  No matter how it is served, try it! You can't lose!

CARACOLES are one of my very most favorite tapas. These are the same tiny snails you see crawling all over the vegetation on the Camino. Stewed in a savory garlic sauce, they are an amazing treat with a cold beer - instant energy! Eat them with your fingers by pulling them out of the shell with a toothpick.

MORCILLA is a savory pork blood sausage. It can be seasoned in a variety of ways. I like some. I don't like others. My advice is to just try it every chance you get. I can hear you saying, "Eeeewwww... sausage made of blood!"  But before you do, think about those luscious, flavor filled bits and pieces you scrape up from the pan when you're cooking pork chops? THAT is pork blood and is what morcilla can taste like. It can be incredibly good! It can be served in slices, but is usually laid on a slice of bread and topped with potato or some other item.

OREJAS DE CERDO are just what they sound like; pig's ears. They are either deep fried or cooked in a savory sauce. Not for the weak-kneed, you might be surprised at their goodness!

To me, these are an excellent example of the way that the Spanish people live the philosophy I love! They respect the animal they are killing and eating by not wasting one single piece! It's the way our grandparents lived, before we got so spoiled with our plastic filled meat cases here in the United States. I have met many people who, believe it or not, have no idea what animal they are eating and never think about how it was raised or butchered.

In Spain, people still live close to the earth and respect her.
That is one reason I'm so in love with that country!

So that's it! These are some of my favorite tapas! As you can see, there are many choices for a hungry pilgrim in Spain. A supper of tapas can be a great option when you're on a budget.

If you have a favorite tapa that I did not mention, please comment. I'll look for a photo and post it.

Buen Camino, Pilgrims, and Buen Aprevecho!

Love,
Annie

The ALTUS Poncho - 2018

If you hang around Camino forums for very long, 

you'll hear people talking about the ALTUS poncho. 

What the heck IS an ALTUS poncho?

The ALTUS poncho is a rain poncho

but better.

The ALTUS has a large "hump" on the back 

that completely covers your backpack.

When you're not using that "hump,"

it snaps neatly down to the poncho,

making the back flat.

The ALTUS also has sleeves,

unlike other ponchos,

and the sleeves have elasticized cuffs,

so your arms stay completely dry.

Here you can see the coverage with Linda and Patty's ALTUS

The ALTUS both zips up the front,

and snaps up the front,

so a strong wind won't blow it up or off of you.

In fact, it makes a very good windbreaker

for those cold, windy days.

The ALTUS has a large hood,

which fits comfortably over your hat,

whether it is a baseball cap style,

or a Tilley hat with a larger brim.

In fact, though the ALTUS hood has a brim,

I find it better to wear it over my hat,

for stability and better vision.

In other words,

the hat keep the brim of the ALTUS 

from flapping around in the wind,

and keeps it stabilized.

It also keeps the hood up in a way 

that keeps the rain from hitting your face and neck.

The ALTUS is so good at keeping your warm

that I've literally used it

as a blanket at Roncesvalles,

when one of the pilgrims in my group 

didn't bring a sleeping bag, 

and I gave her my own.

I simply put on my longjohns 

and slept with the ALTUS over me

and it kept me toasty warm.

People have asked if it keeps you dry?

It keeps me dry as a bone.

However,

like any other gear, 

you must learn to use it.

You must vent the Altus properly.

in order to stay dry.

Because you are walking and sweating,

the ALTUS will collect condensation,

like any other rain gear,

and you will get soaked by your own sweat.

To keep that from happening,

I always leave the top several inches of the ALTUS open

when I'm walking in rain,

so the heat can escape.

And though you can't help but get a little damp

from condensation of your own body heat,

you do not get soaked if it's vented properly,

and you do stay warm.

If I'm walking on a day where it rains, then stops,

then rains, the stops,

between rains I simply unzip the poncho

take my arms out of the sleeves,

and let it hang loose from my pack.

It stays (unless of course it's  too windy,

in which case I'd wear it to block the wind).

It doesn't come off because of the neck of the poncho.

And then when the rain starts again,

I slip my arms in, zip it up, and off I go!

At the time of this writing (Feb 2016)

the  ALTUS cannot yet be purchased in the United States.

There are several places you can purchase it

at the beginning of your Camino.

In St. Jean Pied de Port, 

Boutique du Pelerin carries the ALTUS poncho

as well as other pilgrim needs.

If you email Pierre, and ask nicely,

he will hold a poncho for you.

You can pick it up and pay for it on the day you arrive.

Just be sure to give him your name, size, color, and date of arrival.

Here is his website link:

http://www.boutique-du-pelerin.com/en/

In Zubiri, there is a sports shop called Planeta Agua.

It is on the main street of the village.

Here is their website link:

http://www.planeta-agua.com/

In the past, they have carried the ALTUS,

and I see they take Paypal.

So you may be able to order ahead, pay,

and pick up your poncho when you reach Zubiri.

This might be your best bet if you are 

starting out in Roncesvalles

and did not get your poncho in Pamplona

In Pamplona, Caminoteca is the place to go.

Located in Old Town, they also carry the ALTUS poncho

as well as other pilgrim gear.

The last time I checked, 

the prices for the ALTUS were less here,

so if you're starting by flying into Pamplona

it would be worth a stop to get your poncho.

I'm not sure if they'll hold one for you.

I'm emailing them today to ask if they take Paypal

or if they'll hold a poncho (or sticks)

so come back in a day or two and I will post their answer.

Of course, you can take regular rain gear.

On my first Camino I wore a rain jacket and rain pants.

But the weight put me off and I needed something more lightweight

that would cover my legs and hips.

The ALTUS keeps my feet dry.

I am 5'3" and usually start the Camino weighing around 155.

So I should by most calculations wear a SMALL.

However, I buy a large,

because I like the way the large covers me 

halfway down my legs, 

keeping the rain off my feet.

Also, if you were to be injured or get lost,

the ALTUS can make a very good shelter,

using your walking sticks.

You could cover up with it 

to shelter you from the elements.

Ralph and Toni Marie, from Las Vegas, spent the night on the mountain!

I did meet one couple in 2014

who got stuck all night

on the pass between Orisson and Roncesvalles

because they started too late in the day

and were caught in the dark in a snowstorm.

They snuggled under a bush

praying the Rosary to stay awake,

until it was light enough to see the trail and walk down.

They were lucky they didn't freeze to death!

I've kept in touch with them,

and they did make it to Santiago.

If they'd had an ALTUS poncho,

or two,

they would have had a much more comfortable night!

OTHER PONCHOS

I have tried the Sea to Summit

and the Bluefield Poncho,

both of which can be purchased on Amazon.

I hated both.

The reason was because they did not zip up the front,

and I about had a heat stroke 

just sitting in my living room with the danged things on.

See my review of the Bluefield here:

http://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2015/12/review-of-bluefield-poncho.html

And remember,

if you wear rain pants and rain jacket,

you'll need a pack cover,

which you do NOT need if you're using an ALTUS.

So,

those are all the reasons I love the ALTUS poncho.

If you have any questions, please list them below.

Buen Camino!

Annie

***

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Where the Rubber Meets the Road - Your Walking Stick

Walking sticks and whether or not to take them on the Camino is a question often asked on the forum.

There's just something about a walking stick.  Sometimes referred to as wands or staffs, there are many examples in history and legend where walking sticks played an important part in a person's life:

Asclepius, Greek God of Healing, carried a lovely staff!

A shepherd's crooked staff

Another shepherd and his staff

Moses' staff could do tricks!

It also was used to find water!

Some carry a BIG stick!

Other sticks are more discrete.

Over and over, 

there are examples of famous staffs and sticks,

 important to their owners.

People who use them can become very attached.

I've seen people backtrack for miles to retrieve a stick left at a breakfast stop! 

Some folks carry their sticks from far away places.

Some pick them up along the roadside.

Some buy them from local vendors. 

Some say they're not needed at all!

The first time I walked in 2006,

I purchased a dark wooden stick in St. Jean Pied de Port.

It was beautiful and strong..

and I don't know what wood they use to make these,

but the danged things are downright indestructible.

That was evident when I had a meltdown on the Meseta

and tried to break mine over a boulder.

I succeeded in practically breaking my hand instead

and got so frustrated 

with the toughness of the walking stick

that I flung it far out into the dirt field,

where some lucky pilgrim probably picked it up later,

wondering at the blessings of the Camino!

Those sticks, called "bastones" or "palos," are perfect for walking the Camino.  They come in all lengths and are quite lightweight. Some are plain. Some are decorated. Some have crooks, and some do not. Sold in nearly every village along The Way, all are quite functional and give you the stability you need to get across mud holes, up rocky paths and down wobbly trails.

I saw one peregrina using two short ones,

just like trekking poles.

Each had a strap for the wrist,

and when I asked her how they worked,

she gave me the thumbs up sign.

Many are discarded in the Pilgrim's Office 

once the walker arrives in Santiago, 

since it can be an issue to get one home via airplane.

I often wonder if these are recycled, or resold, or ???

Does anyone know what becomes of them?

I bought mine and used it until I threw it in the field. 

I then found another 

that someone abandoned in a bus station. 

It sat in the lady's room with a 'free" sign on it.  

I carried it the remainder of that Camino.

The plus side of using a local stick

 is that you are supporting the local economy 

by your purchase.

Because they are so inexpensive and so readily available, 

it is highly unlikely it will get stolen, 

and if it does, you're only out a few Euros.

(Note: In 2014, they were still under €10)

They all come with a pointed steel tip and they are biodegradable too!

Some people prefer to bring expensive trekking poles. 

Made by many companies, 

these can cost from $25 upwards to hundreds of dollars, 

depending on the bells and whistles.

Some folks use Leki poles:

Many people do not understand 

the correct way of using poles. 

If you aren't sure, 

there are many video lessons on YouTube 

on the correct use of trekking poles.

PACER POLES

Having used a regular trekking pole for a few local miles, I decided to buy Pacer Poles for my 2009 Camino.  Ergonomically correct handles make them easy on the wrists if you suffer from carpal tunnel.  They give great support and I am in love with mine.

One nice thing about trekking poles is that they have exchangeable tips - rubber for walking on pavement, and steel tips for dirt path. PLEASE USE THE RUBBER TIPS ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE LEAVING IN THE EARLY MORNING SO AS NOT TO AWAKEN THE LOCALS IN THE VILLAGE. BE RESPONSIBLE!

Trekking poles usually come with baskets that will keep your poles from sinking into mud or snow.

If adjusted correctly, 

trekking poles can be very useful 

and save your joints from damage.

However, Pacer Poles are quite expensive, 

and I was concerned more than once 

when I was not allowed 

to carry my poles into the albergue with me. 

This rule is for a good reason, by the way, 

according to one hospitalero.

He said some "pilgrims" 

have gotten violent and used them as weapons.
Believe it or not.

 No.. really.. that's what I was told!

Personally, I have only seen violence in an albergue once,

and it was an obnoxious American who instigated it.

Seems like this is one of those cases 

where one person does something stupid 

and the rest of us are made to pay for it.

Another hospitalero told me the rule 

was to avoid people 

tripping over them and breaking bones.

This actually made more sense to me. 

I can see how, in the tight spaces of an albergue, 

one careless pilgrim could cause an accident. 

But frankly, I don't know of this ever happening.

At one albergue, I REALLY worried about theft. 

They wanted me to leave my poles in a barrel 

near an open door that went out to an alleyway 

in a large city. 

I didn't feel comfortable doing this 

so simply went to another albergue 

where they allowed me to carry in my poles.  

I also have heard of several sets of expensive 
trekking poles being stolen... 

not by a local but by another pilgrim. 

BAD pilgrim.. BAD!!!  

I can only assume one reason you'd steal someone's stick!

Though many airlines 

will allow you to carry on your sticks

from the USA to Spain,

the issue seems to be getting them home.
You are NOT allowed to carry on trekking poles

in airports from Spain. 

More than one pilgrim has had their sticks confiscated

in Santiago and Madrid.

Joe had a set of trekking poles confiscated in Madrid,

and he was NOT happy!

One good option is just to wait 

and buy sticks when you arrive.

St. Jean Pied de Port, Sarria and Pamplona

all have good pilgrim shops

where you can purchase sticks

as well as other items

You can email them and order ahead,

and have your sticks waiting,

or just wait and shop around once you're there.

Here is the link to La Boutique du Pélerin in SJPP:

Boutique du Pélerin

Here is the link to Caminoteca in Pamplona:

Caminoteca

Do you NEED a walking stick on the Camino?

It just depends on you.

Here are some reasons you might want to consider a stick:

• Three legs are more stable than two.
• Four can be even better. It is in debate.
• Sticks are helpful in keeping yourself balanced while walking with a pack.
• They will save your knees and hips!
• They are helpful for launching yourself over those deep sticky mud puddles in Galicia!
• They are helpful for keeping your footing when traveling DOWNhill on steep rocky trails.
• They are helpful for pulling yourself UP steep trails like the one to O'Cebreiro.
• They are great for leaning on to catch your breath.
• They're good for digging through leaves if you're looking for mushrooms.
• It's something you can take home to remind you of the Camino and actually USE at home.
• They are good for warding off dogs or (lately) crazy men exposing their privates. (Think billiards or T-ball!)

Personally, I think some type of walking stick(s) 

is indispensible, 

especially on those wet, slippery, tricky sections 

going DOWN into Roncesvalles, Zubiri, and Uterga,

but that's me. 

And each pilgrim must walk their own way.

Walking without a stick is perfectly fine. 

Many people do it. 

Some don't want to be bothered 

by trying to keep up with a stick, 

and they are often forgotten at the cafe or albergue.

The choice of a stick (or none) is up to you. 

It's just another one of things you have to decide for yourself.

Whether you do

or whether you don't...

Buen Camino!

* * *

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino