To Molinaseca

2009 - Autumn

Joe in Foncebaddon at a Pazo

This pazo has emblems of the zodiac all around,
and that grabbed Joe's attention,
as he is a student of astrology.

Joe at Monjarin

We stayed at Monjarin in 2009.
After participating in a blessing of the pilgrims by Tomas,
we decided to sleep here.

There was no running water and no electricity
and we loved it!
During our family style dinner,
a young man showed up,
barefoot and dirty.
When we would not speak,
there was a concerned hush among those of us at dinner.
We didn't understand.
Tomas immediately recognized him as a pilgrim,
who had taken a vow of silence.
Tomas gently took his pack,
and gave him a seat at the table.

Altar at Monjarin

We slept in the attic,
on well-worn mattresses of questionable cleanliness.
We didn't care.
The hospitality calmed any concerns we might have had.

Joe woke up in the middle of the night
to a light as bright as day.
It was a full moon,
lighting up the attic through a skylight over his bed.

The rule was that nobody could come down from the attic
until the music played.
One of our roommates challenged the rule
and was shoo'd up before he got halfway down the stairs.

Where we slept

Next morning,
we were fed a nice big breakfast,
and sent on our way.

Kitchen

Annie and Tomas the Templar

Walking from Acebo to Molinaseca

On the way down from Acebo to Molinaseca,
it was over 90 degrees F;
we ran into the barefoot boy,
soaking his hot blistered feet in a mud puddle.

In Molinaseca,
I found bedbugs in the albergue,
and so we gratefully took a bunk outside on the porch.

We slept outside at Molinaseca

Here is where pilgrims wash their clothes in cold water

2012 - Autumn

Joe with Marcos, the barkeep at Foncebadon

It was a cold, wet, blustery walk

The trail down to Acebo

The rainbows helped life spirits

Lunch at Acebo

Acebo is a great place to stop for lunch.

Grab a bocadillo and a cold drink

and watch the exhausted pilgrims go by

on their race for a bed.

Everyone seems happy to have made it to Molinaseca

I always have to pay special attention to where we bed down each night.

I cannot tolerate fragrances, 

and cleaning chemicals,

and so I always email ahead and ask the manager to please not use

fragranced products in my room.

Over the years, I've learned which places are safe for me

There have been times when I have had to sleep outdoors

in my tent.

I always ask my pilgrims to please not use or bring 

fragranced products with them, as well.

This way, I can enjoy time with the group.

April and an Italian pilgrim who also stayed at the Casa Reloj

The next morning,
we had a cook-it-yourself breakfast
provide by our Casa Rural.


Fresh farm eggs are provide by our host.

2013

Monjarin

The mountains were so pretty this year!

See the beetle?

Nice track

2014 - Spring/Summer

Looking out my bedroom window - daytime - I caught a stork on a nearby roof

Looking out my bedroom window - nighttime - I caught a shooting star!

Our pilgrims enjoying breakfast

On our way out of town,
we passed the municipal albergue where we stayed in 2009.
There was this Japanese artist,
caring a beautiful Buddha
in the bark of a tree there.
I hope it doesn't hurt the tree,
but it sure was pretty!




2015 - Autumn

We left Rabanal right at daybreak.

The sky was sunny and blue and walking was good.

At Cruz de Ferro, 

we stopped to leave our rocks 

and to soak up the atmosphere.

Peregrinas at Cruz de Ferro

Continuing on to Manjarin,

we noticed an official looking car

traveling on the roads adjacent to the Camino.

Then, as we walked on the trail above the Valley of Silence,

and came into Manjarin,

we saw the same official vehicle.

Inside Tomas' hut, we found the man in the orange uniform,

who we learned was a forest ranger patrolling the area

for the safety of the pilgrims,

another version of a modern-day Templar!

The man in orange is a forest ranger.

As we continued on our way to Acebo and Molinaseca,

we saw many times either the forest ranger's vehicle,

Guardia Civil, or local police

patrolling because of the missing pilgrim, Denise Thiem.

It made us feel safe.

Heather

Leaving Foncebadón, the heather was in bloom and beautiful.

Even when taking extra care, 

the descent into El Acebo can be tricky,

as we saw one pilgrim who took a tumble on the loose rocks.

Later the pilgrim was heard to say,

"Two sticks are definitely better than one!"

Walking from Riego de Ambros to Molinaseca

is one of the most beautiful wild stretches

along the Camino.

A beautiful hike!

When you come off the trail and access the highway,

it's a short stroll to the river,

which is often filled with swimmers and sunbathers.

A welcome sight to see for a sweaty, dirty wanderer!

Are These Posts too Long?

In the past two months I have been combining the posts 

from all the years I've walked the Camino 

into one post per stage.

Joe says these posts are too long 

and that I should split them up into 2 or 3 posts per stage.

Are they too long?

I hope you'll respond.

I don't want to make the posts too long to hold people's interest.

I want to do what my readers want.

So what do you say?

Please leave a comment.

To Ganso and Rabanal del Camino

The Knights Templar maintained a garrison in Rabanal in the 12th century to protect pilgrims crossing from Monte Irago to Ponferrada.   A tiny village with only one tiny market, Rabanal has a several wonderful albergues for the pilgrim to rest. 

I love Guacelmo, but it doesn't allow you to stay if you've used pack transport, so for my groups, we stay in Mesón El Refugio.

Be sure to plan your dinner around Vespers, said at Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, right in front of the Monastery and the Gaucelmo Refuge.

2012 Summer

In 2012, it was still cold in June

but the walking was good in the crisp sunny air.

Ganso

The walking was a little windy, but beautiful

Joe sitting under the Pilgrim Tree.
Two years later, it had blown down.

Miranda is ready for a cold one

Fred and April rest at El Refugio

Laundry Day at El Refugio

2012 Autumn

Leaving Astorga, 

we always stop at the tiny medieval hermitage,

which has been restored, 

Ecce Homo.

There, you can get a stamp for your credential

and get an extra credential if yours is getting full.

 Ecce Homo

Only 249 kilometers to go

Between Astorga and Sta. Catalina is a stop for a picnic

El Ganso is a wee town between Santa Catalina 

and Rabanal del Camino.

El Ganso means "The Goose."

As you enter the town, you pass THIS fountain,

which is clearly marked,

"NO POTABLE!"

This mean "NOT POTABLE"

which means

DO NOT DRINK!!!

There is a good fountain up past the Cowboy Bar.

The Cowboy Bar in El Ganso is a place everyone wants to stop.

And by all means, stop in and peek inside.

However, if they are busy,

there is a lovely bar right next door

where the beer is cold

and the food is great!

The name of the little place is La Barraka.

If you would prefer to picnic, 

soon after you pass the Cowboy Bar,

right across from the church,

is a bench and a fountain and a dumpster,

everything you need for a picnic.

I love the doors in Spain!

Most of the track on this stage is flat

A fallen peregrina, "Trudy" died here in 2011

Rabanal del Camino

Dinner at El Refugio

2013 - Summer

Love the 1844 date.

When you go slow and look, you see things you might otherwise miss.

The beautiful Pilgrim Tree,
now gone.

Looking through a window...

2014  Spring/Summer

This pilgrim had a great way to pull his pack behind him

The walk to Rabanal is flat and easy.

It is a pretty stretch.

I was sad to see the beautiful old Pilgrim Tree blew down this year!
I sat and had lunch by the stump,
remembering how majestic the tree had been in past years.


Joe at the Pilgrim Oak in 2012

From the looks of it, though, it was completely hollow

which probably led to its demise.

A good reminder of how important it is not only to have roots,
but a good strong core.


The Pilgrim Oak 2014 :(

Rabanal del Camino is one of my favorite stops on the Camino.
And El Refugio is my favorite Hostal there.

One reason is the staff.
They are always friendly and helpful.
Christina handles the rooms.
Her brother runs the bar.
And man, oh, man, can her sister cook!

We had a great dinner!
The fish soup is sooooooop good!

The fish soup is incredible!

After a beautiful meal,
most of my group attended Vespers at the church across the street.
I stayed home and caught up on laundry.

It was a good day!


2015 Autumn

Joe and the Peregrinas just finished the stretch 

from Astorga to Rabanal del Camino.

Here is what he reports:

We are here. 

A fine day for walking, not too hot not too cold, just right.

Saw at least 2 police cars on the caretera, so they are patrolling.

Here are some pics.

All will attend the mass here and get stones blessed.

Peregrinas buying necklaces from Manuel on the way to El Gonzo

Sharon and pat at cowboy bar and Kristen checking out cowboy memorabilia

Posters about Denise Thiem, a missing peregrina, were all along the route.
She was later found to have been murdered. The man was caught and imprisoned.

2018 to Molinaseca

To see photos of this stretch in the Spring 2018,
go to this link:

2018 Spring to Molinaseca