Buying a Backpack for the Camino 2018

Buying a backpack for the Camino can sometimes cause anxiety in a new pilgrim.  How large of a pack will you need? What features should the pack have? What makes a good fitting pack?

Here are some of my own thoughts on the matter.

Capacity:  Unless you are doing a winter Camino, you do not need a pack with more than a 32L Capacity.  For a summer Camino, or if you are not carrying a sleeping bag, a 28L or even smaller will work fine. I've walked all of my Caminos using an Arcteryx 30L bag and it has been perfect.  This year, I've purchased a new 28L to try out for 2 months. I'll be walking the Madrid Route, the Camino Frances, and then 2 weeks on the Via de la Plata or southern Spain, I haven't yet decided.  But I'm thinking this 28L pack will be perfect!

If you are walking in winter, you are going to need heavier clothes and a heavier sleeping bag. In this case, you may want to go as high as 35L.

When you are shopping, these are called "weekend" packs or "overnight" packs or even "day packs."  Don't let a salesperson talk you into a bigger pack! We'll talk about that below.

FEATURES  

Internal Frame.  Today, the best packs in my opinion are internal frame packs. These packs hug your body and when you look at them from the side, often have a gentle "C" curve. They help stabilize you while you walk, and in my opinion are the best choice. The internal frame is often adjustable to better fit your body, so be sure to ask. On my pack, I can simply bend the frame into the shape I want.

External Frame: These packs are more for mountaineering or if you're carrying a kayak. You don't need this in my opinion, thought there are some lighterweight external frame packs that would work for the Camino. Again, you can often adjust the frame.

Frameless. If you are young (21-25) and strong and fearless, you could get away with a minimalist pack in the summer months. But honestly, I don't think they're comfortable for the amount of walking you'll be doing.

Top Lid. All 3 types of pack will usually have a top lid. The lid usually has a zippered compartment both on the top and underneath, where you can store items you want to get to quickly during the day. This is where I put my lunch and my rain gear (on top) and I put my shower/first aid stuff in the compartment under the lid.

Ventilation. That curved look in an internal frame pack allows the pack to set a few inches off your back. This is great for ventilation and will keep you from sweating too much and soaking your clothes and your pack.  There are a few different ways this is achieved. One is "tension mesh suspension" and that is what my new pack has. My Arcteryx, that I used for 10 years, also had it, and it sure was nice on those REALLY hot Spanish days.

This Osprey pack has a mesh back with space for air flow.

Hydration Pack Sleeve. Whether or not you use a hydration pack (Camelbak, etc.) is really up to you. When I walk the Camino Frances, I just carry an 8 ounce water bottle and fill it up at each fountain. If you're a big water drinker, you may want to carry 2 bottles, or if you're walking in the hot summer, a bit more. However if you DO like hydration packs, it's great to have a place to put it. And if you are NOT taking a hydration pack, it'll just mean a bit of extra space, so you really can't go wrong. I did not have a hydration pack space on my Arcteryx, and I did use a hydration pack on the Via de la Plata. I just slipped it down into the back of my pack, but a sleeve would have been nice. When I walk the Madrid route this spring, I will take a Camelbak as fountains are fewer and far between. It just depends on the route you will be walking. Hydration packs are a whole other blog.

Hydration sleeve in a Granite Gear pack.

Loading.  Some packs load only from the top. Some have all kinds of pockets and zippers.  Personally, I prefer a top-loading pack for the Camino for many reasons.

One reason is ease of loading. In my Arcteryx, I use a compression stuff-sack for my sleeping bag. Then I stuff it down into the bottom of the pack. I layer the rest of my things on top. To me, it's easier to get everything into the pack if I don't have to fiddle with opening/closing zippers, getting them stuck, etc. I'm a Leo and I want things done yesterday, not tomorrow. I'm the same with packing. I want it to be done so I can be on the road.  Joe has a zippered pack and I watch him trying to hold things in with one hand while he zips with the other hand. It just looks like too much work for me!

Another reason is security.  A panel-access pack usually has one or more long zippers that open up the pack. Easier access yes, not just for YOU but for a thief. No zippers on the outside means someone either has to sit and unpack my backpack to get to what's inside, or they have to cut it open. Chances are, in a busy albergue, they'll go to the next guy's pack and leave mine sitting. Thieves choose targets that are quick to access and quick to leave. My top-loading pack would just take too much time for a thief to get into! I like that security.

By the way, those zippered packs with locks at the top that give people such a sense of security are easy to get into in about 10 seconds with nothing more than a ball-point pen or other pointy object. Just stick the point between the teeth and pull the zipper apart. Thieves can do their pilfering, then rezip it and nobody knows they've been there. Don't believe me? Try it.

When I say top-loading, I'm not talking about the sleeve on the sides or a compartment for a raincoat. I'm talking about the main compartment of the pack.

Front-Loading.  or Panel Access Bag.
To me, this is too much "business!"

Top loader.
This person used the hydration sleeve for their laptop/ipad.

Pockets. Pockets on the sides and/or back are convenient for putting a water bottle or stuffing rain gear into. Things you'll need TODAY on your walk. I've used mine for a loaf of bread (they're long and slender - we'd call it a baguette), fruit, cheese, a can of tuna or sardines, etc.  Easy to access without digging through the pack, but nothing you couldn't afford to lose. NOTE:  More than one pilgrim has lost a pair of expensive sunglasses that were attached to a pack left outside a restaurant. Never leave your phone, sunglasses, or electronics in your pack if you aren't watching it.

Sleeping Bag Compartment. The size pack we're talking about usually does not have this, and to me, it's extra weight I do not want to carry.

Attachment Points are little loops on the pack where you can attach your walking sticks when you aren't using them, or your umbrella, or bread, or your jacket or ???

Padded Belt.  I would never walk the Camino with a pack that did NOT have a padded belt. You are going to be carrying this weight for 6 weeks and your hips will need to be protected.  And by the way, you carry the weight of the pack on your HIPS, not your waist and certainly not your shoulders. Practice adjusting the straps until the pack sits comfortably on your hipbones.  A skinny little waist belt is not sufficient, not even on a summer daypack. You'll thank me later if you buy a pack with a padded waist belt.

A padded lumbar pad is also essential with the amount of walking you will be doing. A pack that swings around is going to give you blisters on your back in a very short time.

Padded Shoulder Straps.  You WANT padded shoulder straps. Ten percent of your body weight for 6 weeks will wear you down quickly if you don't protect your shoulders. Blisters under unpadded straps could mean the end of your Camino.

WHISTLE!  Do you know that many packs have a built in emergency whistle on the chest buckle?   This is important, and many people aren't aware of this, so here are a few photos. Go check out your pack!:

Raincover. Most packs today have a built in raincover, but you don't 'really need it if you're going to take an ALTUS or other type of pack-covering poncho or coat.   If you're walking in summer, a raincover might be handy for short periods of summer rain when it's warm and you don't really need an ALTUS.

IT IS PREFERABLE NOT TO PURCHASE A PACK ONLINE UNLESS YOU HAVE TRIED IT ON IN A STORE FIRST.

All packs are not created equal.  I suggest you find a sporting goods store and try packs on.  Then, if you find something you like that fits, you can scour the internet for a better price. But just buying off the net without trying it on is asking for trouble, in my opinion.  Packs come in different sizes.

First there is torso length.  I am only 5'3" but I have a long torso and short legs. A short torso pack rides too high on me; it doesn't sit on my hips correctly. On the other hand, if you have a short torso, a long pack is going to ride up next to the back of your head and knock you on the head with every step!
There is a range of torso lengths available in most better-quality packs, so be sure to check.

Next is waist size. If you are extra tiny or extra large, you may have difficulty finding a waist belt that fits properly. Be sure your waist belt will either fit, or is equipped to handle an extender if you are large. If you are tiny, be sure you can swap out the belt easy (that it is not permanently attached).

There are also gender-specific packs. A woman's pack will usually be shorter and narrower. The shoulder straps will curve in a way that fits better and the sternum strap will be adjustable to fit above the breasts.  A woman can wear a man's pack, but she probably would have wider shoulders and should be sure the sternum strap is adjustable.

My pack has load-lifting straps. These are straps on the padded shoulder straps that I can pull or release to adjust my load and where the weight sits. I would not buy a pack without these.  The sternum strap is usually attached to the same configuration and is a strap that you can tighten and release to pull the shoulder straps in snug or to loosen them. It fits across the chest and above the breast in a woman. It should slide up and down so you can put it in the correct position across your chest so as to be comfortable.

Criteria for a good pack fit are:

1. Hip belt centered over hip-bone.

2. Back panel makes contact with the entire surface of the back

3. Shoulder straps make contact with the entire surface of the shoulder and do not "tent" where the load lifters attached.

For load lifters to work properly, the frame needs to extend above your shoulders enough to allow the lifter straps to have at least a 40-45 degree angle. That way, tightening the straps shortens the distance between the shoulders and the frame, creating the 'lift.'

Another thing to look at is the fabric that the pack is made of.

Nysil. While nysil is lightweight, it may not be sturdy enough to last 6 weeks on the Camino. I purchased a nysil shopping bag one year that was suggested by a friend. I wore a hole in the bottom in less than 3 weeks.

Here is a great article on pack materials:
Fabric Guide for Backpacks

ORGANIZING A TOP LOADER:

A search on Amazon for ultralight stuff sacks will give you lots of choices. I usually pack my clothes like this:

Stuffsack #1:  underwear, bras
Stuffsack #2: tops
Stuffsack #3: bottoms
Stuffsack #4: shower and sundries, first aid
Stuffsack (compression sack) #5: sleeping bag.

I label the outside of the stuffsack with a laundry pen so I can quickly find the sack I'm looking for.

To pack, my sleeping bag goes in the bottom with the other bags on top.
That's it.
I'm packed.

Here is my packing for a 3 month trip. I shave it down for shorter Caminos.

Well, that's about all I can tell you.

I hope this blogpost has been helpful.

Remember, the two most important items you will purchase 

for your Camino are 

1) your shoes and 

2) your pack.  

Choose wisely, for both will keep you healthy and walking strong!

I'll do a blog when I pack for this year,
as things change a little each time I walk.
Until then,

Buen Camino!

Annie

* * *

Need help planning your Camino? 

Don't want to walk alone? 

Don't want to race for a bed?

Walk with us in a small group or alone.

Booked lodging!

Anniewalkers Camino

UPdating Again

Hola Peregrinos!

Once again, I'm updating these blog posts. It's been many long years since I began this blog, and some of the posts are outdated. So I'll be going through them, reading and updating them, and reposting for the new pilgrims who are just beginning their planning.

Please be sure to comment if you find mistakes or have updated information that I've missed.

I'll be walking the Camino again this year from May 15 through the end of June. I'll be taking a group of 7 wonderful women from St. Jean to Santiago.
There, I will pick up a group of 2 or 3 folks. We will taxi to Sarria and begin a SLOW Camino of half stages.  I have one spot left on the slow Camino if you're interested - but be quick, as lodging is disappearing fast!

I hope you will find these posts informative and helpful. My love affair with Spain and the Camino Santiago has been rich and satisfying, at times challenging, but always worthwhile.

Have a Buen Camino!

Ciao!
Annie

El Almuerzo! Lunch on the Camino Santiago

For me, el almuerzo (lunch) on the Camino
is almost always a picnic.

Simple and very inexpensive.

It's nice to know you'll have lunch
even if you can't find a bar on the road.

The following items will keep for days,
and are easy to carry in your backpack.

Pick and choose what suits your taste.

The first stop in any village for me is 

the Panaderia or Bakery.

The above sign is clear,
but remember, 

the panaderia is not always labeled.

Don't worry, though.
You´ll know it right away.

Follow your nose and eyes.
The wares are almost always displayed 

in the window.

Remember, 

they aren't always open all day.

When the bread is sold out,
the doors close to begin tomorrow's baking.

The bread in Spain is OOBER-delicious!

If you don't finish a loaf at lunch,
it makes a wonderful snack mid-meal.

You don't need a knife, 

just tear it off and dig in!

Because without preservatives 

it will harden quickly
once you break the crust,

you might keep it in that noisy plastic grocery sack 

you brought from home!

I love Spanish bread!

I cannot eat bread in the USA .
The wheat is sprayed with bromine
and the loaves are full of preservatives.

In Spain, the bread is baked fresh each day
from clean non-GMO wheat,
and I can eat all I want with no reaction.
Heaven!

You can often find organic bread.

The loaves will be labeled 

"panes ecológicos."

The label "ecológico" can be found 

on organic food of all types.

There many regional varieties of bread in Spain.

We'll cover specifics in another post.

But for today, just know you can go into the bakery
and point to whatever looks good.

I generally buy one or two small bollos 

(small round loafs),

Photo by Mese

 or one long loaf
for under 1 Euro.

A sidenote.

You will often see bags of bread
hanging on gates and doors 

as you walk through the villages.
More than once, I've watched in horror
as a pilgrim took what was thought of as a gift.

These are NOT FOR PILGRIMS!

People hang these little cloth bags out
and the baker delivers their daily bread into the bags.

PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH THEM.

 Buy your own!

Once you have bread,
keep your eyes open for a tienda.
Almost every village has a tiny market,
run out of someone's house.
There is no sign, no marking,
nothing to tell you 

what is going on in there,
except the occasional customer 

going in and out.
Look for a door which is open.
There will almost always be a fly curtain 

hanging in the doorway.
I can usually smell a tienda when passing,
like an old time grocery,
they just have a particular scent.

Once you establish it is a tienda,
and not someone's living room,
walk right in.
Inside, you'll find all sorts of goodies
to fill your mochila and your belly!

Following are some of the best backpacking foods 

I found along the Way.

We've already talked about eggs.

You can buy them by the each - and they're cheap.

If you're in an albergue with a kitchen,
you can boil them and cool them in the refrigerator,

and carry them with you next day.

Just be sure to label them in the fridge.
There is an unspoken rule that if it's 

in the fridge and unlabeled,
it's for any pilgrim who is hungry.
Most pilgrims will respect a sign that says,
'Please do not eat," or "Annie's eggs."

Next, I look for olives.
These are called aceitunas in Spain
and they come in cool little plastic bags.
They do not need to be refrigerated.
Some have pits and are labeled "con hueso" 

which means with pit/seed.

Others are labeled "sin hueso" 

which means without pit/seed.

 

Even others are stuffed 

with anything from garlic cloves 

to pimiento to anchovies.

They add a great deal of flavor, 

sliced or whole, to a bocadillo!

The next thing I look for 

is canned tuna.
Called "atun" in Spain, 

it comes in a nice little package 

of 3 small cans.
Each can is good for a sandwich 

large enough to feed 2 pilgrims
or one REALLY hungry pilgrim.
The package below tells me it is "en aceite de oliva" 

or "in olive oil."
You can also buy it in water,
but consider the olive oil for extra energy
when you're walking such distances.

Don't worry if you don't have a can opener.
They've made things easy for pilgrims 

along the Camino.
The tuna cans have a nice neat pop-top!

I don't bother mixing the tuna with anything.
I just spread chunks on the bread,
then pour a little of the oil over it 

and let the bread soak it up.
Wonderful!

You can also find these nice cans of filets.

I sometimes add roasted peppers 

to my sandwich.
These come canned and are VERY RICH

 so be careful.
But the flavor is amazing!
I've lunched on many bocadillos 

with nothing but pimientos (peppers),
olives, and cheese.

A can of these will last me a couple of days.
I just keep them in a ziplock bag

 or in the olive bag.
These are a great option f

or vegetarian sandwiches too!

If I feel like having meat on my sandwich,
there are many options in the tienda 

or mercado.
You will always see savory hams 

and chorizos hanging.
This is generally sold by weight,
so if you aren't sure how much to ask for,
just show the shopkeeper with your fingers.
I'll talk about meat in a future post.

The cheese in Spain is fantastic!
The milk is clean and non-GMO.
I suggest you try all the local varieties 

and I'll post on them another day.
But for now, grab some Manchego, 

one of my favorites,
which you'll find all along the Camino.
This savory sheep-milk cheese is always a treat!

If you don't have a knife 

to slice your cheese and tomatoes,
pick one up in the ferreteria (hardware store) 

down the road
or borrow one from a fellow pilgrim.

Try some of the tomates!
They´re farm fresh,
have not been gassed
and will blow your mind and tastbuds!

Lettuce is difficult to carry,
so unless I´m making dinner at the albergue,
I tend to pass it by.
But it is good for making your own 

ensalada in the albergue!
Just be sure to wash it good.
This is farming country.

Crackers and Cheese
or Crackers and Fish
always make a good picnic lunch.
There are many varieties of canned seafoods

 available along the Way.

The canned anchovies are especially good on saltines.

These mejillones (mussels) 

are in a really nice pickled sauce
and are very good on crackers or bread!

Other great picnic foods you might find 

in the tienda include frutas of all types.
Vegetarians will do well in the picnic area.
You might see something exotic 

that you haven't seen before.
Why not give it a try?

Sometimes I've found my favorite imported fruits

 in Spain at a much better price.
For instance, I might pay over $6 

for one cherimoya in the USA -
so it is a rare treat!
But on the Camino, 

I often found them for under 1 Euro!
If you've never eaten a cherimoya,
please try one.
Just cut it open, and eat the fruit 

off the skin.

To me they taste like a mild combination 

of banana and pineapple.

You'll also find a large assortment 

of dried fruits and nuts.
Of course, you'll find a better variety

 in the larger city markets,
but even the small tiendas 

will carry an assortment.
There will be raisins, dates, 

figs, apricots, almonds,
sunflower and pumpkin seeds, and many others.
Buy them by the inexpensive bag

 and make up your own trail mix!
Just remember to drink the water

 your body needs to rehydrate the fruit.

Speaking of markets, 

if you come across a street market, take a look!
There are all sorts of goodies to be found there!
If your Spanish isn't good, just point to what you want.
You can bet it will be affordable.

Top off your picnic lunch with 

a VERY inexpensive bottle of local wine.
When I say inexpensive, 

I mean anywhere from 1 Euro to 3 Euros.
These are not always labeled; 

sometimes they're locally bottled.
But one thing is certain, 

they're always delicious!
Half a bottle before bedtime will help you sleep
through the roncadores (snorers) 

in the albergue!

If you don't want to carry glass, 

you can purchase wine and juice in little boxes.
These do not need refrigeration 

until they've been opened.
I've often carried both around for days, 

even opened, with no problems.
But I'm adventurous!

This boxed wine sells for 0,71 Euro 

which is just over $1.
It is delicious!

If you'd rather have juice, 

you'll find it for under 1 Euro for a box.

It also comes in bottles in the cold section.

.Well, that's about it.

These have been some of my favorite lunch options.
On thing is certain,
you will not go hungry on the Camino.
Shopping can be a real adventure!
If you are willing to shop for yourself
and to try new things,
I promise you'll leave the Camino an expert
in the fine art of "the picnic!"

and

 Love,

Annie

A Lot Like the Camino

I'm pleasantly surprised how the Camino has prepared me for this van dwelling experience in so many ways.

First of all, the space constraints.  Living for 3 months out of a backpack weighing only 16 pounds really made me realize how little we need to make us happy. I've skinned down to two pair of jeans, about 4 shirts, 7 pair of undies and socks and a couple of bras. I have one hoodie, one down jacket, and a merino hat and I'm pretty much decked out.  Every bit of clothing I brought fits into one and a half bins under my bed.  In one of those bins lives a box of tealights, my shower stuff, my Blue Fuel kit, and my laundry stuff.  I have a third half-sized bin with nothing but watercolor materials in it.

In addition to minimizing clothing needs, my food needs are simple. I've been carrying around the same 4 milk crates of food since Thanksgiving. I eat very little on the road and am losing weight steadily. Breakfast is usually yogurt with a bit of Ezekiel cereal and fruit. Yogurt will keep 4-5 days (at least) with no refrigeration, so I really don't need an ice chest at all. Much of time I use it for storage space.  I don't eat lunch often. I usually eat my main meal around 3 or 4 pm, and that could be a big salad, fruit and cheese, or tuna and crackers. If I am in a group, I may cook up a curry or stew, but usually it's quite a simple meal.

I get plenty of exercise, walking trails and seeing sights.

I sleep in my van on a great little bed, smaller than a twin sized, but comfie and warm.

I recently bought a porta potty for the van, so toileting is private and comfortable.

Showers are only once or twice a week. Between showers, I take sponge baths in my porcelain clad dishpan that belonged to my grandmother or clean up with unscented baby wipes.   So far, I haven't missed a daily shower.  I have a battery operated shower that I drop into a bucket of hot water and I can wash my hair and shower in 2 gallons of water!

Just like on the Camino, I meet people, hang out, leave them, then run into them again up the road.  In fact, I've met several people who have walked the Camino!

I'm walking again this year. I'll be heading home mid-April and fly into Madrid around May 15 to take two groups this year. I'm looking forward to being in Spain again. Each year, I say it's my last trip... but each year about this time, I'm feeling the itch to walk again.

Time for bed now - the sun is down and it's a late 7:30 pm!  LOL!
See you in the morning for coffee and to watch the sunrise!
Usually around 4 am !

Love,
Annie

Fires on the Camino!

For those who are walking the Camino now, I'm sure you have heard there are quite a number of active fires burning, especially on the stretch around Triacastela and Samos.

This was posted on the forum today:

Here is a real time NASA fire map:

http://lagisteria.com/incendios-en-tiempo-real-24h-48h-mapa-web/

Pilgrim Mark McIlroy posted this you tube video today:

The news I've heard is that an out-of-work fireman 

started many of these.

We've also heard rumors of a pilgrim flicking a cigarette

and starting the one near Samos.

If you hare headed that way, 

please check with locals before walking today.

The smoke is not healthy for breathing,

and getting caught in a forest fire

isn't my idea of adventure.

Take care pilgrims,

and Buen Camino!

Annie

My Van Dwelling Winter - The Cost to Set Up

Someone on Facebook asked how much I was spending to get set up for my Winter Van Dwelling trip.  I've been selling extra books and items to pay for the new things I need. Here is what I've purchased, and I'm finished, I think:

Butane Stove $35

Butane 4 cans $5

Battery Shower $39

Pop Up Shower/Toilet Tent $39

Luggable Loo Seat $12

Stanley Thermos to cook in  $25

Aero Press Coffee Press  $24

Reflectix for my windows  $27

Shade Sox for back windows $19

and a couple of Tarp poles $22

That's it.
$247

Oh, yeah, and a Luci Light for $11:

So $258 total.

I will have no rent, no utilities to pay.
Gas will be minimal in my Mercury Tracer.
Food will be much less than cooking at home.

I'm pretty satisfied.
Annie