Here I go...

One Adventure After Another!

Monday, February 12, 2018

Where the Rubber Meets the Road - Your Walking Stick

Walking sticks and whether or not to take them on the Camino is a question often asked on the forum.

There's just something about a walking stick.  Sometimes referred to as wands or staffs, there are many examples in history and legend where walking sticks played an important part in a person's life:

Asclepius, Greek God of Healing, carried a lovely staff!
A shepherd's crooked staff
Another shepherd and his staff
Moses' staff could do tricks!
It also was used to find water!
Some carry a BIG stick!

Other sticks are more discrete.

Over and over, 
there are examples of famous staffs and sticks,
 important to their owners.
People who use them can become very attached.
I've seen people backtrack for miles to retrieve a stick left at a breakfast stop! 

Some folks carry their sticks from far away places.
Some pick them up along the roadside.
Some buy them from local vendors. 
Some say they're not needed at all!

The first time I walked in 2006,
I purchased a dark wooden stick in St. Jean Pied de Port.


It was beautiful and strong..
and I don't know what wood they use to make these,
but the danged things are downright indestructible.

That was evident when I had a meltdown on the Meseta
and tried to break mine over a boulder.

I succeeded in practically breaking my hand instead
and got so frustrated 
with the toughness of the walking stick
that I flung it far out into the dirt field,
where some lucky pilgrim probably picked it up later,
wondering at the blessings of the Camino!

Those sticks, called "bastones" or "palos," are perfect for walking the Camino.  They come in all lengths and are quite lightweight. Some are plain. Some are decorated. Some have crooks, and some do not. Sold in nearly every village along The Way, all are quite functional and give you the stability you need to get across mud holes, up rocky paths and down wobbly trails.

I saw one peregrina using two short ones,
just like trekking poles.
Each had a strap for the wrist,
and when I asked her how they worked,
she gave me the thumbs up sign.



Many are discarded in the Pilgrim's Office 
once the walker arrives in Santiago, 
since it can be an issue to get one home via airplane.


I often wonder if these are recycled, or resold, or ???
Does anyone know what becomes of them?

I bought mine and used it until I threw it in the field. 
I then found another 
that someone abandoned in a bus station. 
It sat in the lady's room with a 'free" sign on it.  
I carried it the remainder of that Camino.

The plus side of using a local stick
 is that you are supporting the local economy 
by your purchase.


Because they are so inexpensive and so readily available, 
it is highly unlikely it will get stolen, 
and if it does, you're only out a few Euros.
(Note: In 2014, they were still under €10)

They all come with a pointed steel tip and they are biodegradable too!

Some people prefer to bring expensive trekking poles. 
Made by many companies, 
these can cost from $25 upwards to hundreds of dollars, 
depending on the bells and whistles.

Some folks use Leki poles:

Many people do not understand 
the correct way of using poles. 
If you aren't sure, 
there are many video lessons on YouTube 
on the correct use of trekking poles.

PACER POLES

Having used a regular trekking pole for a few local miles, I decided to buy Pacer Poles for my 2009 Camino.  Ergonomically correct handles make them easy on the wrists if you suffer from carpal tunnel.  They give great support and I am in love with mine.

One nice thing about trekking poles is that they have exchangeable tips - rubber for walking on pavement, and steel tips for dirt path. PLEASE USE THE RUBBER TIPS ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE LEAVING IN THE EARLY MORNING SO AS NOT TO AWAKEN THE LOCALS IN THE VILLAGE. BE RESPONSIBLE!

Trekking poles usually come with baskets that will keep your poles from sinking into mud or snow.




If adjusted correctly, 
trekking poles can be very useful 
and save your joints from damage.



However, Pacer Poles are quite expensive, 
and I was concerned more than once 
when I was not allowed 
to carry my poles into the albergue with me. 
This rule is for a good reason, by the way, 
according to one hospitalero.
He said some "pilgrims" 
have gotten violent and used them as weapons.
Believe it or not.


 No.. really.. that's what I was told!
Personally, I have only seen violence in an albergue once,
and it was an obnoxious American who instigated it.

Seems like this is one of those cases 
where one person does something stupid 
and the rest of us are made to pay for it.

Another hospitalero told me the rule 
was to avoid people 
tripping over them and breaking bones.


This actually made more sense to me. 
I can see how, in the tight spaces of an albergue, 
one careless pilgrim could cause an accident. 
But frankly, I don't know of this ever happening.

At one albergue, I REALLY worried about theft. 
They wanted me to leave my poles in a barrel 
near an open door that went out to an alleyway 
in a large city. 
I didn't feel comfortable doing this 
so simply went to another albergue 
where they allowed me to carry in my poles.  

I also have heard of several sets of expensive 
trekking poles being stolen... 
not by a local but by another pilgrim. 
BAD pilgrim.. BAD!!!  
I can only assume one reason you'd steal someone's stick!



Though many airlines 
will allow you to carry on your sticks
from the USA to Spain,
the issue seems to be getting them home.
You are NOT allowed to carry on trekking poles
in airports from Spain. 
More than one pilgrim has had their sticks confiscated
in Santiago and Madrid.
Joe had a set of trekking poles confiscated in Madrid,
and he was NOT happy!

One good option is just to wait 
and buy sticks when you arrive.
St. Jean Pied de Port, Sarria and Pamplona
all have good pilgrim shops
where you can purchase sticks
as well as other items
You can email them and order ahead,
and have your sticks waiting,
or just wait and shop around once you're there.

Here is the link to La Boutique du Pélerin in SJPP:

Here is the link to Caminoteca in Pamplona:

Do you NEED a walking stick on the Camino?
It just depends on you.

Here are some reasons you might want to consider a stick:
  • Three legs are more stable than two.
  • Four can be even better. It is in debate.
  • Sticks are helpful in keeping yourself balanced while walking with a pack.
  • They will save your knees and hips!
  • They are helpful for launching yourself over those deep sticky mud puddles in Galicia!
  • They are helpful for keeping your footing when traveling DOWNhill on steep rocky trails.
  • They are helpful for pulling yourself UP steep trails like the one to O'Cebreiro.
  • They are great for leaning on to catch your breath.
  • They're good for digging through leaves if you're looking for mushrooms.
  • It's something you can take home to remind you of the Camino and actually USE at home.
  • They are good for warding off dogs or (lately) crazy men exposing their privates. (Think billiards or T-ball!)
Personally, I think some type of walking stick(s) 
is indispensible, 
especially on those wet, slippery, tricky sections 
going DOWN into Roncesvalles, Zubiri, and Uterga,
but that's me. 
And each pilgrim must walk their own way.

Walking without a stick is perfectly fine. 
Many people do it. 
Some don't want to be bothered 
by trying to keep up with a stick, 
and they are often forgotten at the cafe or albergue.

The choice of a stick (or none) is up to you. 
It's just another one of things you have to decide for yourself.
Whether you do
or whether you don't...
Buen Camino!

* * *
Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 
but are not quite ready to go it alone, 
consider joining Annie
on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 
For more information see our website 
at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

Don't Let The Bedbugs Bite 2023

When I was a girl,
my grandmother said a little rhyme to me
each night when she tucked me in.
She said,
Goodnight!
Sleep Tight!
Don't let the bedbugs bite!"

When I would ask her "What are bedbugs, Grandma?"
she'd just cackle and say,
"Girl, you are SO lucky that you don't know what they are!"

I guess I WAS lucky.
I had no idea what bedbugs were
or if they even existed,
until I walked the Camino.

If you get grossed out easy, you may not like this blog post.
But if you're planning on walking the Camino any time from spring to fall, you may find this information very helpful.

I began seeing pilgrims with horrid bedbugs bites 
about 4 days into my trek.
In fact, I had a bite on my neck, 
but had no idea what it was.
Just this HUGE painless welt, about the size of a quarter, 
on the side of my neck.
I dressed it, covered it, 
and waited for it to go away.
It took about 2 weeks to completely disappear.

Later, I realized I'd had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Bedbug, and being chemically sensitive, realized that most poisonous means of control were not in my repetoire. I took a trip to the local Farmacia and had a chat with the pharmacist. She gave me great instructions and I'm pleased to report that during the rest of my 2006 Camino and through my entire 2009 Camino, although I saw many bedbug bitten people and many bugs, I did not get one single bite.

Bedbug bites range in size according to how allergic the host is. For some people they're no worse than a mosquito bite. Other people can end up in the hospital. More people react than not, in my experience. Here is a sample of what bedbug bites can look like. For more photos, do a Google search on bedbug bites and have a look yourself!





Here  is what the pharmacist taught me.

1. LEARN TO SPOT BEDBUG SIGN

The first thing I do when I go into a place is look on the wall above and around the bed. If there are bedbugs, you may see tiny dot dot dots, like someone took a black sharpie pen and made dots on the wall. This is their feces.


You should also pull back the sheet and check the mattress. Often, in the rolled seam, if you pull it back, you'll see these dots.


If there are holes in the mattress, sometimes the bugs hide in the holes. They're nocturnal so they hide from the light. Check around holes for sign.

Sometimes you'll see the bugs themselves, hiding in the mattress seams or in the seams of the bedframe.

Dot dot dot feces as well as bugs - are you itching yet?

Bedbugs in the rolled seam of mattress

Bedbug sign on the mattress

Pull the mattress up and check the bed frame. On wooden beds, I look in the little recessed holes where the hardware that holds it all together resides. I check around the bed slats and even around the wheels.




If I see ANY signs like these, I ask if they know they've had bedbugs.

If they say, "We sprayed, they're gone" then I go to Step 2.
If I see NO sign, then I also go to Step 2.

2. SPRAY THE BED. When you get to the Camino, stop at a Farmacia and buy a mosquito repellant spray meant to spray on the skin to repel mosquitos. This is a pump spray and isn't expensive, maybe 6 or 7 euro. It allows you to spray a fine mist.

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SATURATE THE AIR OR THE BED. Spray about 12 inches above the bed, 3 pumps, a fine mist. Mist top, middle, bottom. Then step back and watch for about 5 minutes.  (I'd probably do this when nobody is around. People will spray their deodorant or EO's but don't want you spraying repellant. I see less problem in doing this than in spraying a mosquito repellant or sunscreen onto your body in the same room.)

If there are bugs, they will run out to escape the spray 
and you will see them.


If you see them, I would not stay there, period.

If you do not see them, there's a good chance you won't get bit.

If you can stand to spray yourself, then do it. I am not able to spray myself without getting sick so I never did use the spray on my skin. I was never bitten.

This worked quite well for me.

Some people on the forum were concerned that the spray would make others sick. I suggest you do this early on in the day. The smell dissipates quite quickly.

In the winter, the bedbugs are not as much of a problem. They die off and are dormant until the heat of Spring, when they begin hatching again. Here are photos of the bugs in different stages of their lives.



IF  YOU DO GET BITTEN

If you DO get bitten
you must ASSUME your entire backpack 
and ALL of your gear is compromised.
You must follow certain rules to be sure
you do not spread these bugs along the Camino
everyplace you stop and sleep.

Method One
1. Take EVERYTHING out of your pack
2. Turn all pockets inside out
3. Lay it all out on the grass or dirt
4. Spray it ALL with insecticide
5. Let the sun bake it a while
6. Wash EVERYTHING (including your backpack) in HOT WATER
7. Dry in a hot dryer
8. This includes the shoes/socks you are wearing

Method Two
1. If it is impossible to wash everything, then you must take everything to a dry cleaners OR put it in a hot dryer.
2. This includes your backpack!

Method Three
1. If it is summer you can take EVERYTHING out of your pack
2. Turn all pockets inside out.
3. Put everything in a BLACK garbage bag, loosely
4. Tightly close it
5. Leave it in the hot sun for several hours
6. Wash everything in hot water and dry in a dryer if possible.

You will need to examine all the SEAMS of your clothing, 
including inside pockets.
Examine all the seams of your backpack and of your sleeping bag also.
Examine your shoes carefully.
Eggs are tiny and can be hidden in crevices and seams.

If you do not do this, 
not only will you spread bedbugs along the Camino,
you take the chance of carrying them home to 
YOUR HOUSE !

This will not endear you to your family...

 By the way, bedbugs are not only on the Camino.
A quick Google search on Bedbugs along I-5
will give you a list of the California hotels
that are housing the little buggers.

They're everywhere!
Much like VAMPIRES!
Sleep tight!

Why Bedbugs and Vampires Are Exactly Alike 
(Thank you Rants from Mommyland)
  • They are both totally real.
  • They both come out at night.
  • They both suck your blood.
  • You should not invite them into your house (already established).
  • They CANNOT be killed by silver bullets, that's werewolves, as you damn well know unless you are illiterate or don't have cable.
  • Once they get in your house, it takes an act of God or possibly Fairies to get them out. Also, fire.
  • If either bedbugs or vampires start coming in your house you should probably just move far, far away.
  • They hide under the bed and some of them are telepathic. 
  • You can tell the telepathic ones by their artfully tousled hair.
  • You can catch them in hotels, so don’t go to hotels.  Especially in Cincinnati.  
  • They climb in bed with you while you’re sleeping and do unspeakable things.  
  • If you let them bite you on purpose, you might want to get a check up from the neck up.
  • Parents disapprove if you try to date one.
  • They have Kings and Queens and a rigid hierarchy with swift and final justice for wrong-doing.
  • The Health Department should be called immediately if you suspect an infestation though the Health Department may be slightly less effective with an infestation of vampires.
* * *

Back to the Camino.
Don't let this information on bedbugs ruin your trek.
Just pay attention
and you'll be fine.

Sleep tight!

UPDATE!!!

Since walking the Camino in 2011, 
I have returned many times, 
and over the years, the bedbug problem
has gotten worse, 
not better.

SPRAYING YOUR GEAR:

I now suggest you spray the OUTSIDE of
both your backpack
and your sleeping bag
with Permethrin Spray before leaving for your trip.

The brand most used in the USA is SAWYERS
and it can be found at REI.
I have also found permethrin spray 
at farm supply stores and vet supply stores.

Simply hang up the backpack 
and the sleeping bag on a line outside.

Now spray the OUTSIDE of both well.
Let it dry before taking back inside.
It is odorless once dried.

This only has to be done once before your Camino.
No need to carry permethrin with you.

TO KEEP FROM INFESTING YOUR HOME

Upon returning to the USA,
whether or not you saw one single bedbug,
DO NOT TAKE YOUR PACK INTO YOUR HOUSE!!!
Even if you have not had one bedbug bite,
DO NOT TAKE YOUR PACK INTO YOUR HOUSE!!!

Have whomever is picking you up from the airport 
bring a large garbage sack with them.
Do not put your backpack into their car trunk
until you tie your pack up tightly in the sack.

When you get home, 
DO NOT TAKE YOUR PACK INTO YOUR HOUSE!!!
Leave it in the plastic bag,
outside or in the garage.

Go inside, 
undress and immediately take your Camino clothes
and put them in the plastic bag as well.

When you have time,
next morning, hopefully,
open the sack,
dump the contents into the plastic bag
and spray both the contents and your backpack
with insecticide,
then tie everything up for a few more days
inside the plastic bag.

When you have the time,
take out your clothing and wash 
EVERY piece of clothing in HOT water.
Dry in a HOT dryer.

Inspect every single item,
including books/journals
page by page.
The bugs hide in dark places.
Inspect every seam of every piece of clothing.

If you can afford it, 
have your backpack dry-cleaned.

Only now is it safe to bring items into your house.

If you don't think you have time to do this,
then I invite you to Google 
bedbug infestation 
and read stories of the thousands of $$$
it costs to rid yourself of this pest
if it gets into your home.

This is easily avoided
by taking the above-mentioned steps.

Pilgrims, lavender oil will NOT kill bedbugs.
You may know someone who used it.
They may not have been bitten,
But the majority of pilgrims are NOT bitten!
They were just LUCKY.

All of those posts on the web about lavender oil killing bedbugs 
have been copied, 
and recopied, and recopied. 
There is No science showing lavender oil kills bedbugs.

However, lavender people insist it helps.
They say the oil does repel bedbugs, 
and perhaps it does.

If it makes you fell better, go for it.

I don't like pesticides either.

I have MCS.

However, recognizing the signs and possibly permethrin
are the ONLY ways to be SURE you will not get bitten.

So either spray your pack and bag with permethrin
(if you do it correctly it WILL work)
or slather on a mosquito repellant each night
(which also may not work, by the way).

And if you carry even one bedbug into your house,
you could be in for nightmare
that will feel undending.

ONE FEMALE BUG can lay MANY EGGS.

Just be responsible up front.
Spray your gear!

And Have a Buen Camino!

* * *

If you'd like to walk the Camino
but aren't quite ready to do it alone,
see my website:
for more information about
Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 






Sunday, February 11, 2018

Laundromats on the Camino?

Holy Moley things have changed!
I just found out about several laundromats on the Camino!
From Falcon:

There is a new laundromat in Santiago about 60 meters from Casa Manolo. It has 12, 15, and 19 kg machines. Suitable for bug detox.

Also, a fairly new one in Arzua along albergue row as you enter.

And one in Astorga down the back street near the bed store.

From Martyseville:

FERROL:

There is a self serve laundry mat not far from Hotel Silva (which is excellent, inexpensive place to stay before doing the Ingles).
Ask at desk. Basically turn left out the Hotel door. Turn left at corner. Go straight down the street. Cross the main blvd. Place is located on your right. Clean.

From Father Jeffrey:

In re Santiago de Compostela: There's a splendid laundromat on the Rua das Hortas, very close to the Obradoiro and S Martin Pinario. And in Pamplona there's a splendid laundromat right on the Plaza del Castillo.

Backpack Transport


Alto Perdon sculpture showing the many (valid) ways
Pilgrims travel the Camino.

You may have heard someone say 
if you want to do the Camino and be a “real” pilgrim, 
you must carry your backpack 
every step of the way.

Don't be hooked by this.  
Pilgrims have hired pack transport for various reasons 
since the beginning of the pilgrimage. 
Some were too ill to carry all they needed on their backs, 
some used beasts of burden, such as donkeys and horses,
and some just had the money to pay for it, 
so they did!

Think about the most famous pilgrimage of all, 
the one by the Three Kings to see the newborn Baby Jesus. 
They didn't carry their goods on their back, 
but packed everything, 
including themselves, 
by camel!

Were the 3 Kings not 'real" pilgrims?

The notion that using pack transport 
makes you less than a pilgrim is just silly. 
If you are physically unable 
or simply do not want to carry your backpack, 
there are wonderful companies 
who will transport your belongings each day.

I rarely carry my pack on the Camino Frances anymore. 
I did it the first time, because I wanted to 
and because I'd been told it was mandatory.
I'm older now, 
can afford to stay in private lodging,
and I love the freedom of walking without the extra weight. 
My feet and back are much happier when I walk unencumbered.

Pack transport is not that expensive. 
It generally runs between €6-€8 per pack, 
depending on where you begin your Camino 
and which route you are walking.

If you have pre-booked your lodging, 
you can sometimes get a bit of a break on the cost 
by submitting your schedule to the company 
and asking what it will cost. 
 If you have a group traveling, 
it can be less expensive, 
because in general, the more packs going, 
the less each individual pack will cost.

You may have heard of pilgrim albergues 
that will not allow pilgrims to stay 
unless they have carried their packs. 

Often, they WILL allow you to stay,
but you are put at the end of the line,
behind those who have carried heavy packs.
This is only fair, really.

The Albergue Guacelmo in Rabanal del Camino 
is one example
of an albergue who will not allow you to stay
if you have used pack transport. 
So there are some and you should do your homework.

However, if you are booking private lodging, 
it is not an issue. 
If you are unsure, ask when you book the lodging.

If you are not on the Camino Frances, 
it may be a little more difficult to find bag transport, 
but not impossible if you’re willing to pay. 
 Often, local taxis will transfer your backpack for a few euro. 
 Ask at the hotel or at a bar if they can recommend a reliable taxi.

Here are a few of the services that I am familiar with. 
I'm sure there are others. 
One way to find out is to ask the host of the lodging 
where you have booked if they know of a taxi 
or transport company that works the route you're walking.

I will post a note saying whether or not I have used the service

FRANCE

Express Bourricot

Caroline has sold Express Bourricot!
The new owner's name is Maialen!
They will carry pilgrims and luggage 
from St Jean pied de Port to Orisson or to Roncesvalles. 
The company operates in France only. 
All of the albergues in St. Jean will have a contact number
 for the taxi service. 
They speaks English and is very trustworthy. 
The cost for a taxi from SJPP to Roncesvalles is not inexpensive. 
You can find current prices on the website.

The cost is per TAXI, 
so if you have a group of people going, 
you can split up the price.
 They will also transport bicycles. 
Price to transport bags from SJPP-Roncesvalles
at the time I wrote this blog is €8 per bag. 

Services begin in March. 
I use this company every year.

Le Puy Route


Spain
Camino Frances:

Caminofacil

Prices for bag transport begins at €6

The more bags, the less the cost.

Also, if you are prebooking your lodging 
and you know where you are staying, 
you might get a better price by booking your entire Camino 
with them up front.

I use this service every year. 
I have found them to be dependable and trustworthy.

Sarria to Santiago



Xacotrans

Tel. 608.581.206

I'm not sure what Xacotrans costs, 
but I do know bag transport is about half the price
once you reach Sarria.
Last I saw, Sarria to Santiago was running €3 per stage.

Camino Aragones

Jaca, Huesca Tel: 637 503 920 


Camino Norte

Le P'tit Bag 
Transports bags from Bilbao to Irun.

Jacotrans


The Peregrine Express 
Camino Norte between Irun and Santander.
Email: christel.langeveld@gmail.com
Contact number: 0034644589217


Camino Primitivo

Taxi Camino

Jacotrans


Camino Portugues



Camino Ingles



How does it work?

In general, you simply call ahead and book the day before. 
You must call before 8pm and
 I suggest you call before 5 pm if possible.

With Caminofacil, you can also book via internet on their website, 
which is convenient and less expensive than calling.

The company charges per etapa, or per stage. 

A stage is usually considered a trip between two villages 
with a distance less than 30 km. 
If your stage is more than 30km, 
you may be charged for 2 stages.

If you are bicycling and/or your stage is more than 60km, 
contact them and get a quote.

Not all companies allow online order, 
but some do.
With Caminofacil, when you place an online order, 
you can also register on their website. 
Registering allows you to change 
or cancel your reservations later, if you need so. 

Please read their rules,
which they have posted on their website.

Tags

Once you have place your order with Caminofacil
 you’ll be able to download a set of printable luggage tags 
with the information of each stage on your route, 
so that you can print them and add them to your bags. 

If you are ON the Camino, and decide you need transport, 
and do not have internet access, 
most (not all but most) lodgings will have information available 
and tags available for local pack transport. 
Just ask your host.

Bag Transport Envelope is used with some companies

On the outside of a bag transport envelope
 is a form you fill out 
with your name and your destination for the day. 
You pop the cash into the envelope 
and attach it to your pack with the rubber band or string that is supplied.

In addition to the tag provided by the transport company, 
I suggest you put a sturdy luggage tag on your backpack 
with your name, your email address, and your telephone number.

Ask your host where the bags for transport should be placed. 
Generally, you will put your bag back 
where you picked it up the night before.




Most companies ask that your bags be ready to go by 8 am. 
This does not mean they will pick them up at 8 am. 

IF YOU MISS THE PICKUP THEN YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN. 

You will have to call and make private arrangements 
and most likely pay a much higher price.



THE DREADED BEDBUG ISSUE

With the Camino so busy, 
bedbugs have been a persistent problem in albergues. 
(Not so much in private lodgings.)

If you are using bag transport, or riding buses,

 I strongly advise you to spray the outside of your pack 
with permethrin before leaving home. 
Your pack will be riding touching many other backpacks
 who may or may not have been exposed to bedbugs 
where they stayed the night before. 
 A little precaution can save a lot of tears later on.

* * * 

If you'd like to walk the Camino
but prefer walking with a small group,
take a look at my website: