My Packing List for 2022

Annie's Packing List for 2022

Here is my current packing list:

Carried/worn on flight to Madrid:
Backpack - Brize 32L

Daypack -  Deuter 15L empty and inside backpack which is carried on flight

I layer my clothes on the flight to Madrid. It keeps my backpack small enough to carry on. If I get hot, I can remove clothes. If I'm cold, I can put more on. 

PASSPORT
Photo ID (driver’s license is fine)
Credit Card (optional)
ATM Card
Money Belt - mine are sewn into my skirt

Small change purse

panties

smart wool socks

merino wool leggings

silk undershirt

short sleeve shirt

long sleeve featherweight fleece

Macabi skirt

1 packet tissues

Shoes - New Balance SL-2 trail runners

iPhone & charger

Sleep mask and earplugs

Saline spray for my nose

Of course, I carry my eyeglasses.

Inside Backpack
Down Sleeping blanket

2 Smart Wool socks 
2 Panties

Featherweight Puff Jacket
1 Hiking shorts

ALTUS raincoat
long sleeve shirt

Buff

Merino beanie hat 

Towel
Small packet tissue
Ziplock bag to carry TP out
Handkerchief
Refillable water bottle 8 oz
Tiny container deodorant
Travel size toothpaste/toothbrush

1/2 Ligget's shampoo bar

My tiny pillow

Tiny lightweight journal and pen for taking down info 
Guidebook - I like Brierley's map book

Extra eyeglasses
KT Tape

A few bandaids

A few ibuprofen

plug adapter

Credential

I keep my pack weight down to 10% of my body weight

Flip-flops or Crocs - pick up in Spain

Cotton or silk sock liners / pick up in Spain

BACKPACK: Buy a comfortable but lightweight backpack. Don’t let the salesperson sell you a heavy-duty, inner frame, mountaineering pack. You won’t be carrying camping gear, tent poles, stoves, etc. You’ll only need a lightweight pack to carry clothing and toiletries. Most packs come in different torso lengths and some in ladies and men’s sizes so try them out in the store. See my blog post on buying a backpack and email me if you do not have the link.

When you go shopping, take a digital kitchen scale with you and weigh everything! If you find two items that you like, buy the one that weighs the least.

Your backpack and shoes will be your most expensive items. I paid around $125 for my backpack and around $150 for my shoes!

You must try on your backpack to be sure it fits correctly. Please do NOT buy it online unless you've tried it on in a shop first.

PASSPORT/VISA – NOW is the time to make sure your passport and/or visa are up to date. If your passport expires within 3 months of this trip, they can stop you and send you home.

CASH: I usually carry no more than 300 Euros on my person. I carry all 20€ denominations except for one 10€ and two 5€ bills. You could purchase Euros at your bank. You could also buy them at the airports. But why do that? Just get them when you land at the closest ATM. I used to get 100€ at my bank, then use the ATM in Spain. But I don't bother anymore. I just hit up the ATM when I arrive at the airport in Madrid, Barcelona, Paris, or wherever I land. It's much easier and Charles Schwab refunds all my ATM fees at the end of each month

The ATMs in Spain work just like the ones in the USA. You put your card in and the money comes out in Euro bills. Check with your bank to find out if there is a charge for using the ATM in Spain. Be sure your ATM card has a 4-digit pin.

I switched bank accounts to Charles Schwab because they charge no ATM fees at all and they reimburse me for all  fees the Spanish banks charge. I love this card for traveling!

I always carry an EXTRA ATM CARD with me in case my card gets eaten by a machine on a weekend. You should carry it someplace besides your money belt, in case the money belt gets lost or stolen.

Do not bother with traveler’s checks. Nobody in Spain will take them. Also, many small villages will NOT take credit cards, so you will need to carry cash at all times for your food, transportation, etc. Also, be sure you take a popular globally known credit card such as VISA if you’re taking one.

BE SURE TO NOTIFY YOUR BANK a couple of weeks before you leave for Spain. If you do not, you might get there and find your card has been frozen because they think it’s been stolen. It’s much easier to deal with that issue from home than from Spain! PUT IT ON YOUR CALENDAR NOW.

Money Belt: Please purchase a money belt that can be worn under your clothes and around your waist. You can find them at the Steve Ricks website and REI and many other online travel stores. Buy this in addition to a fanny pack (if you use a fanny pack - an easy target for pickpockets!) Keep your passport, your bank cards, and your cash in this and never ever leave it in your room. Take a plastic zip-lock bag that it will fit in and carry it into the shower with you. In the morning before you leave your room, put the day’s cash into your fanny pack or change purse. Never get into the money belt in a public place. Spain is very safe. In fact I feel it is much safer than any city in the USA. But you must use your common sense and not tempt fate. With this economy, there is sure to be a rise in petty theft, so just take precautions.

RAIN:  I love my ALTUS poncho. It covers me AND my pack! You have the option of picking it up in SJPP, Pamplona, Zubiri, Madrid, or Sarria. However, if you choose not to, you will need a rain cover for your backpack because there most certainly will be some rainy days. A nysil cover is the best. It is lightweight and I think I paid under $20 for mine. It folds up into a small packet about the size of half a sandwich and I keep it handy in the front pocket of my backpack. Last year I bought an umbrella in Spain and carried it and loved it! I used it for rain AND for sunshine! I walked in the shade probably 20 degrees cooler than fellow pilgrims with no umbrella. If you do not use an ALTUS, you will definitely need rain gear unless you're walking midsummer.

DAY PACK - When I take groups I book backpack transport. On those days, I carry a good sturdy daypack with nice padded shoulder straps. You can purchase them online from REI or other sporting goods stores. If you are carrying your backpack and NOT transporting it, you will not need this.

WALKING STICKS:  See my blog on walking sticks for more information. There will be slippery places on the trail so I’d advise you carry them. You can buy trekking poles in SJPP or you can pick up a really nice stick there for under 10€

SHOES: I’ve probably worn your ears out about shoes. This is your most important purchase. Do not try to save money here. Spend what it takes. Your feet will carry you across Spain so treat them as friends and buy the correct shoes. I love New Balance. See my blogs. You do NOT need hiking boots. Buy comfortable, flexible sole walking or running or trail shoes. Get shoes with a LARGE DEEP and WIDE toe-box so your toes don’t rub against each other or press against each other. This is important because we are walking all day long. Spend the $35 on some nice gel inserts. I like Motion Control inserts because they keep my ankles straight and support the instep. Buy your shoes 1 to 1.5 sizes too large because your feet WILL swell when you are walking 6 hours per day. Take your socks when you try them on.

CROCS OR FLIP FLOPS:  At the end of the day after your shower, you will want something comfortable to put your feet into. I love Crocs because they are featherweight to carry, and they are nice and wide so your feet will be happy. I’ve also carried Teva sandals, and those work fine. I usually pick up my Croc knockoffs in Spain at one of the Chinese discount stores for around 6 euros.

SOCKS. Smart Wool or other wool hiking socks. I love Smart Wool socks because they are cushioned and last forever. I get mine at REI. Any thick cushioned wool hiking sock will be fine. 1000 mile socks bought in the UK are about £9.18 a pair.

QUICK DRYING SOCK LINERS: These are thin, polyester (or cotton) socks that you wear under your wool socks. You change these each day, but you can wear the wool socks up to a week. When you walk, the wool socks will rub against the liners, instead of against your skin, and keep you from getting blisters. I buy my liner socks in Spain at the China stores.

You can also just wear the smart wool alone.
You can also just wear the same socks you'd wear at home.
There are plenty of places along the route if you decide you need a change.

SHORT AND LONG SLEEVED TOPS:  You don’t need anything fancy, just something that will dry overnight when you wash it. If you live in the USA, consider visiting your local Goodwill Store and check out the Action Wear section. You can find unbelievable buys there! Consider the weight rather than the fashion. Nobody cares if your pants match your shirt on the Camino.

FEATHERWEIGHT FLEECE: This is part of your layering system. You will probably start out in the morning wearing it and strip it off within the first hour. You can purchase them from Cape Storm or First Ascent, from Outdoor Warehouse, Cape Union Mart, REI, and other sporting goods stores. Goodwill is another good choice if you live in the USA. A zipper is convenient, but it is also extra weight. Choose a microfleece if possible; something not too bulky, but warm. Polartec is a great fabric choice.

Hiking shorts (quick dry) or zip-off trousers: Again you want quick dry shorts or trousers. They make some really nice hiking trousers that have zip-off legs. If you can find these, they are great. They have lots of pockets and if you find them, just buy 2 pair and don’t bother with extra shorts.

MACABI SKIRT. The past few years I hiked in 2 Macabi skirts. These are expensive but worth every penny. Honestly, I could have gotten by the entire 3 months with one skirt. They just do NOT get dirty and when you wash them, they dry in an hour. They have HUGE pockets to carry food, and guidebooks and zippered pockets for cash. I loved this skirt and will wear one each time I walk from now on. You can find them online.

Long lightweight trousers: If you buy zip-off trousers, you will not need these.

Parachute jacket trousers: These are very nice for wind and rain. They are lightweight nylon or Gore-Tex. Mine are Moonstone and are Gore-Tex. I have heard that Frogg Toggs are very good and are affordable. I think REI carries them. You do not need these AND an ALTUS. One or the other. But if you choose this, you'll need a pack cover. With the ALTUS, your pack is protected when you put on the raincoat.

OR

ALTUS Backpack Raincoat – bought in Spain. This can be bought in SJPP, in Zubiri, in Pamplona, Madrid, and in Sarria. If you would like to order this and have it waiting for you in Spain, you can order ahead. The 2018 price was 45 euros each. This is a great deal because you will save on expensive shipping. I can’t say enough about this poncho – it will keep you warm and dry, and will cover your backpack as well as you. Do a google search and look at the photos. It’s awesome. … if I get cold I layer clothes and put this on top. I’ve even used it as a blanket. If you do any hiking or backpacking, you will use this again and again.

UNDERWEAR. I buy straight-leg panties for these hikes because they don’t bind me but whatever you wear at home is perfectly fine. Ladies, buy panties with a cotton crotch panel.

LONG JOHNS. Buy a pair of lightweight, but warm long johns. Good fabrics are silk, polyester, merino wool, bamboo or polertec. I have purchased Cuddle Duds at JC Penney’s and I’ve also got a pair of silk long johns. You can find them online or in sporting stores. REI carries several brands. Last year I splurged for a set of merino long johns. They kept me toasty warm

SPORTS BRAS. Of course, this is up to you, but I suggest sport bras for comfort. Underwires can cut into you and are not comfortable with a backpack. You can find really nice but inexpensive ones at stores like Marshall's. When I wore a bra, I bought mine in a 3 pack for under $20.

HAT & PEAK: A “peak” is the visor part of a cap. You can take a baseball cap or buy a hiking hat. You can take one of those lightweight visors without a top. Something to keep the sun out of your eyes. I have a Tilley hat that I love. It has a secret compartment for my paper with credit card numbers, extra cash, etc. It smooches up to fit into my pack and it holds my raincoat hood off my face.

I also carry a microfiber beanie for cold mornings.

I also have a BUFF – look for them on the internet, they are very cool!

Sun Screen : I do not wear sun screen. When it is sunny and hot, I put on my long sleeved lightweight shirt and lately I've gone to carrying an umbrella! I pick it up in Madrid or Pamplona for under 10 Euros. I don't get a folding umbrella, but a stick one. Sturdy and perfect for rain or sun, they are also useful to frighten away dogs if necessary.

If you need sunscreen, this is something you can easily purchase in SJPP when you arrive.

WAIST BAG: This is just a small bag I call a fanny pack. It can hold your cash, your camera, and your Credential. But remember, it is SOOOOO easy for a pickpocket to get into that thing, so be sure MOST of your cash is in your money belt inside your clothing! If you have pants with large pockets that zip or button, you won’t need one. You can also pick one up in Spain.

SMALL CHANGE PURSE: Like the ones your grandma used to carry. To carry the day’s cash. Pick one up in Spain.

GLASSES AND CASE: If you wear prescription glasses, please bring an extra pair (safer). I used to advise you bring a prescription, but it's pretty much impossible to get a new pair of glasses in under a week. So you're better off bringing an extra pair. On one of my last group walks, one lady lost her glasses going over the Pyrenees in a snowstorm and had to wear her prescription sunglasses the entire rest of her Camino. Generally I don't suggest you bring "extra" things.. but this is one time I do.

CAMERA . I use my iPhone

HEAD LAMP (optional) Honestly, I hate these things. I’ve been rousted from many a good night’s slumber by a pilgrim wearing a headlamp. You really don't need to be walking in the dark either. So unless you really need this, leave it at home. If you really DO feel you need one, get one with a red lamp so you don't blind the rest of the albergue.

CREDENTIAL : Get this in Spain when you arrive. Usually 3 to 5 Euros. If you're walking with my group, I supply this. 

GUIDEBOOK: These are optional if you're walking the Camino Frances. It's very well marked and the pilgrim office will give you a list of albergues if you ask. If you would like to pick up a map book or guide to carry along, I prefer Brierley’s. It is the best, in my opinion.

NOTEBOOK/Journal & pen (pocket size) It’s nice to have this to make notes, take email addresses of people you meet along the way. But buy a small, lightweight one please. Mine is a mini-sketch book that I got at an art store and is about 3” x 5”.

TOILETRIES: In all my years of walking, I’ve seen only one or two woman wearing makeup on the Camino. Really, it’s true. It’s just too heavy to mess with and nobody bothers. Also, please do not bring perfume or cologne if you plan on walking with me as I have Multiple Chemical Sensitivities and cannot tolerate scent, even organic oils. Instead of shaving cream, bring unscented soap. Instead of electric razor, bring or buy disposables. Instead of hair dryers and rollers, cut your hair short and let it air dry or pull it into a ponytail. Go light! If you have dry skin, consider buying a lotion in SJPP or use olive oil! If you are set on a routine with a particular set of cosmetics, bring very small sizes and consider packing those into a smaller bag that you will check so you can still carry on your backpack (in case the bags get lost). If you have questions about this, email me. Here is what I do…

I use a Ligget’s shampoo bar for both body and hair washing.
I cut my hair very short before the trip and let it air dry.
I wear no makeup or lotion or fragrance
I use a deodorant crystal stone.
I do not shave my legs.

ENJOY THE FREEDOM!

TOWEL: I use an old worn out terrycloth towel cut in half. I’ve also carried a microfiber dish drying towel. I don’t care for camp towels; they just seem to spread the water around. But buy something lightweight. Most private hostels will provide towels, but pilgrim albergues will not.

TISSUE (1/2 toilet roll or pocket Kleenex) You can pick up pocket Kleenex packets n Spain. Please bring a plastic zip-lock bag to carry out your tissue when you use it on the trail. This is a HUGE issue with me – DO NOT LEAVE TOILET PAPER ON THE CAMINO, LADIES. CARRY IT OUT AND DISPOSE OF IT. It’s sad to see what women leave along The Way.

ELASTIC CLOTHESLINE: (optional) I like carrying one of these. Most places will have a clothesline for your wet clothes, but occasionally there will be none. You can find these in travel stores. Rick Steves’ website has a nice one. This is optional. I’ve also made my own by purchasing round elastic, then twisting or braiding it into a rope and tying one end. With this, you do not need clothespins. You simply hang your clothes by putting the edges between the twisted elastic.

LARGE SAFETY PINS (diaper pins are nice): These are nice to use to hang up your clothes for drying. They are also good to pin your damp socks to your backpack if they aren’t dry in the morning!

LIGHTWEIGHT NYLON STUFF SACKS: I use one for shirts, one for pants, one for underwear and socks, and one for “other small things.” Saves you digging around in your backpack, especially if it’s top-loading.

COMPEED (buy in Spain): This is a stick-on bandage that is great for hot-spots before you get a blister. Stock up in Pamplona or SJPP.

First aid items (buy in Spain): Things to consider are arnica cream (for aching muscles), Compeed, and mosquito spray. Also KT tape. The farmacias also have a wonderful rosemary-infused rubbing alcohol for sore muscles.

WATER BOTTLE (or just buy in Spain): You can bring a special water bottle or just buy a disposable one at the airport and refill it. You can bring a water bladder if you wish, but it’s really unnecessary on the Camino Frances, as there are fountains of good water in every village.

CELL PHONE: This is absolutely optional. There are still a few places in Spain where you can pay to make calls to the USA, especially in large cities like Burgos, Leon, Pamplona. There are also internet cafés in the large cities where you can send and receive emails. If you plan on carrying a cell phone, you should talk to your provider about using it in Spain to see what is necessary. You will also need to bring the charger and a plug adaptor. There are places in the cities where you can purchase a temporary cell phone or a sim card for your unlocked phone. I use VODAFONE every year and have never had issues getting a signal. Another one is ORANGE. See my post on phones.

Handkerchief or Bandana: (optional) Please carry one for your nose, your sweat, or for using if you have to urinate on the trail. It can be washed each night with your laundry and will save the trail from being littered with tissue.

If you have any questions about any of these items, drop me a line.

Remember, every ounce counts!
Pack light!

Love,

Annie

I'm Making Videos

 Soooo... I've been learning how to make YouTube videos.

They certainly are not professional looking and probably never will be. However, they are (I believe) chock full of good information for anyone planning their first Camino.

To find them, go to YouTube and do a search for Anniesantiago13 - all one word. 

There IS another Annie Santiago on YouTube. But you'll see, she's not me :) nor does she have videos on the Camino Santiago.

I'd put a link here, but I can't figure out how to do it without linking you to my account, so you'll just have to find me.

So far I have posted videos on a range of topics. Here is what is up there today, October 13.

If you think of other topics I can cover, please list them below.

Enjoy!

Annie

The Camino During Semana Santa 2022

SEMANA SANTA: Holy Week 2022 in Spain will begin on Sunday, April 10 and will end on Sunday, April 17. 

What does this mean for the Pilgrim? 

This means in almost every large city, the albergues, hostels, and hotels are going to be FULL because the parades are spectacular and people will be flying from all countries to see them. 

This means in the smaller village, the albergues, hostels and hotels are going to be FULL because children and grandchildren will be going to their home parishes to celebrate with their families. 

I suggest you book the entire week, including the weekend BEFORE Semana Santa begins.

There will be GREAT CROWDS:

Semana Santa commemorates the last week of the life of Jesus Christ, 

his crucifixion on GOOD FRIDAY, 

and his resurrection on EASTER SUNDAY.

 Processions will be spectacular 

and you will see many people wearing the nazareno, or penitential robe. 

This robe and capriote (pointed hood) are of medieval origin. 

People wearing the robes and hoods will often be carrying candles 

and walking barefoot. 

At times, they will have shackles and chains on their feet.

 These hooded penitents will lift and carry the heavy floats, 

called thrones or tronos, through the streets. 

Behind them often are women dressed in black and carrying candles, 

singing saetas, traditional songs of mourning, 

dedicated to the pasos (carved wooden sculptures) on the float. 

The pasos represent different scenes in the last days of Christ.

PALM SUNDAY is the kick-off for Semana Santa. This is the day that Jesus rode into Jerusalem. There may be processions and people waving braided palms.

HOLY MONDAY is next, with possibly more processions than on Sunday.

HOLY TUESDAY and HOLY WEDNESDAY are pretty quiet, but you'll feel the energy building.

MAUNDY THURSDAY will find a lot people celebrating in the streets, and many processions.

GOOD FRIDAY, businesses will be closed and there will be at least one procession carried out in silence, mourning the crucifixion and death of Jesus Christ.

HOLY SATURDAY. In some villages this will be important. In others, not so much.

SUNDAY OF RESURRECTION is a day to celebrate, spend time with family, and attend processions.

EASTER MONDAY is a national holiday so businesses will be closed as people rest from the week's celebrations.

The MYTHS of the Camino Santiago

There are several myths that have been and are being generated that there is ONE path and ONE way to walk to Santiago and there are "rules" that must be followed in order to be a 'real pilgrim." There are several definitions of the word pilgrim. According to the Oxford Dictionary, a pilgrim can simply be a person who travels on long journeys.

So what constitutes a "real pilgrim" and what are these myths I'm talking about? One myth is that in order to be a "real pilgrim" you must carry your backpack. That is simply not true. People who could afford it have sought shortcuts and ease, and have hired transport for themselves and their luggage from the beginning of the pilgrimage. There were no "backpacks" originally. Some pilgrims walked with nothing but a cloak or blanket and water, and a staff or stick to help them. Some carried a bedroll. Some did not.



Some think the Way should be affordable for pilgrims, and that merchants, restaurants, bars, and lodging owners should cut pilgrims some slack. Sorry, not historically true. Pilgrims have been targets of $$$ stings from the beginning. Expect it. It's no different than any other place in the world. It's very much a commercial enterprise for many who live along The Way.



Yet another myth is that the Camino "should" be a spiritual experience. Though it often is, and perhaps began as such, there is no rule stating that. There used to be a spot on the Credential, and still is on some, asking if your journey is religious/spiritual. Historically, some walked with great feelings of religious or spiritual purpose. However, others walked because they were ordered to by a judge or court as payment for a crime.

The reasons for walking the Camino these days are legion. Kyung -Mi Im and SuJung Jun, in their interesting paper, The Meaning of Learning on the Camino Santiago Pilgrimage, state, "The Camino de Santiago itself is a spiritual way and a way of self-mortification that engenders physical and spiritual pain while walking for more than a month... many people have gone on this route of self-mortification in the past. It is because this way leads to the unknown world and is the way of experience of life that offers them the feelings of loneliness, longing, warmth, rumination of regrets, recovery, consolation, and self-discovery. For many participants, the Camino de Santiago leads to maturation. Furthermore, various people pursue communication and coexistence, reconciliation, and sharing for national and international peace on the journey...The travel on the Camino de Santiago is not a simple voyage, but a learning experience that consists of transformative learning. It also brings passion to life and catalyzes spiritual awakening and development."

Another other myth is that you must walk every step along the guidebook's stage, and stay in the villages suggested, whether it be Brierley or otherwise. Wrong again! Pilgrimages are often taken on horseback, or in carriages.


Modern pilgrims traveling via cart to Roccio

Some will tell you, "You MUST begin in St. Jean Pied de Port!" 

But where is the "beginning" to the Camino Santiago de Compostella? Is it St. Jean Pied de Port? Is it Roncesvalles?

No. The Camino Santiago begins at your front door. You get to the whichever route you are taking, however you get there, whether you fly, take a boat, or walk. You can take the high road or the low road, whatever suits you. You can walk on the designated route, or you can choose your own route. You can walk the "stages" or "etapas" stated by guidbooks, or stop and start anywhere you wish.

And must you sleep in a municipal albergue with coughing, snoring, farting pilgrims surrounding you?  No! You can sleep in a village albergue, refugio, municipal, or you can sleep on a park bench or in a church or a barn, or you can book a room in the Parador.

Sleep in a Hay Loft

or

The Parador

The point of the pilgrimage is simply to arrive in the sacred city of Santiago de Compostela. There is no specific starting point. There is no mandatory sleeping place. Historically, because it was safe for people to walk together, common paths and roads were created. However, those paths have changed over time. And people sleep wherever they can afford.

In the Middle Ages, the Catholic Church encouraged people to make pilgrimages to a shrine, believing if you prayed at these shrines, you would have forgiveness of sins and have more chance of getting into heaven. Some went to shrines hoping to be cured of an illness 

from which they were suffering.

Pilgrimage in the Middle Ages; notice horses.

Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela reached its peak during the Middle Ages. By the 12th century, the Camino had become quite organized. What is widely regarded as the world's first travel guide, the Codex Calixtinus from around 1140, provided the would-be pilgrim with the rudiments of what he or she would need to know while en route. Book V, the famous "Liber Peregrinationis" ("Guide of the Medieval Pilgrim") provided practical information, while Book II, the "Book of Miracles", would surely have provided encouragement while underway. (From American Pilgrims on the Camino)

A massive infrastructure developed to support pilgrimage and, not coincidentally, to gain commercially from it. Bridges were constructed across rivers to draw pilgrims to certain cities and they prospered. Pilgrim hospices were chartered by religious orders, kings and queens and they gained favor in heaven. All manner of commercial businesses were established to both take advantage of and to support pilgrims. Cultures mixed, languages merged and history was affected.

The routes we walk have been changed over time by war, new construction, natural disaster, re-routing TO some villages, or AWAY from villages that didn't want to be bothered by pilgrims.

An excellent example of a current route change is the path going down the hill before you get to the river at Portomarin. I much prefer the older path, and that's the one I take! Or the crazy dip down into Lorca. I ignore that dip and stay on the road - and enter the village at the exact same spot.

An example of a larger change is the village of Portomarin itself, the original village which you can see at the bottom of the water below the bridge.  When the water was dammed up, the village disappeared below the water. The church was brought up, brick by brick, and reconstructed. (For some great photos of the original village, and stories about that change, visit the wonderful hospitalera at Albergue Ultreia in Portomarin. )

Original Village of Portomarin and Original Bridge

These steps are not required!

So for those, for example, saying you MUST climb the steps UP into the village after that long walk, instead of simply going around them (a much easier way), because you must stay on the original Camino, sorry, they are way off base. Those steps have only been there since the 1960's when I was a wild teenager! Well within my lifetime! They are not part of any "original" Camino. I have climbed them once or twice. Never again!  

I turn right at this staircase and walk up a gentle hill until a park, where I turn left and walk right into the village.

So what is the Compostela? It is a document that certifies a pilgrim has completed the required last 100 kilometers of Camino de Santiago (and only the required last 100 kilometers!) 

Appearances of the Compostela
have changed over the years.

The Compostela was sought for the forgiveness of sins for those who walked as Catholics. The Camino was originally a Catholic pilgrimage (though some say it was a pagan pilgrimage long before - but there are no records I know of supporting that theory.) 

The Compostela is awarded by the Catholic Church authorities. A pilgrim collects it at the Pilgrim Reception Office. The Compostela was created in the 9th and 10th centuries. Originally the scallop shell was used to certify you had walked, and was picked up at the END of the pilgrimage, but that was an easy thing to forge, and so in the 13th century, the Church replaced that with cartas probatorias, the direct predecessor of today's Compostela. 

There is also a Certificate of Distance available, which is also very nice, for those who do not want or do not qualify for the Compostela.

Unlike today, people couldn't afford to just stop their lives and go on pilgrimage! They didn't just go walk the Camino Santiago unless they had been instructed to by a judge as punishment for a crime they committed, or because they wanted their sins forgiven, or because they sought healing, physical or spiritual. And those people were most certainly Catholic. 

Today, you don't have to be Catholic. You don't have to walk to have your sins forgiven. You can walk for many reasons. You can just walk for exercise, to see the country, to honor someone, to raise money for a charity, and a hundred other reasons.

If you are walking the Camino, the ONLY rule I know of is that you must be walking for a spiritual/religious reason and you must walk every step of the last 100 kilometers IF YOU WANT THE COMPOSTELA. 

That's it. 

It does not have to be from Sarria. 

It can be from ANYWHERE 100 kilometers out from Santiago. 

And there is nothing in the rules 

about carrying your pack 

or walking a particular street or path.

The only thing that remains true 

is the pilgrim goes towards Santiago de Compostella. 

The road you take there is of no matter whatsoever.

So go on your pilgrimage, whatever that word means to you, and enjoy it.

• Walk from wherever you want to begin. 
• Carry whatever you wish to carry. 
• Stop wherever you wish to stop. 
• Sleep wherever you wish to sleep... 
• And don't let anyone dictate to you any myths they believe are "the rules," because they just don't exist. 

Buen Camino! 

Annie

Ways to Avoid Blisters

 

This will be a LONG post, 

so grab a cup of your favorite beverage

and get comfie.

If you ask me what is the most important thing you take on the Camino,

I will tell you it is

YOUR FEET!

Without your feet, 

there will be no Camino.

So be sure to take very good care of them!

1. SHOES

Begin by purchasing the correct shoes.

I have several blogs on this topic.

I suggest a lightweight trail runner

with good traction,

and a deep, wide toe box.

Your feet ARE going to swell 

unless you are athlete

because we just aren't used to walking 

6-8 hours a day on the type of track

you will find on the Camino.

So be sure and get those trail runners

a size larger than you usually wear.

You can always put on a second pair of socks,

but you cannot make your shoes larger.

Trail runners trump boots, in my opinion,

UNLESS you are an avid boot wearer

and your boots are completely broken in.

There is no terrain on the Camino 

that warrants hiking boots, 

in my opinion.

One thing is for sure,

unless you are walking in high summer,

THERE WILL be rain.

And rain means wet shoes,

and wet boots mean BLISTERS.

Trail runners will dry overnight.

Boots will not.

If possible, stuff your wet trail runners

with newspaper,

and they will be dry and ready to walk in

by morning.

I do not suggest waterproof shoes.

Waterproof shoes hold the moisture IN

as well as keeping it out.

Moist feet mean BLISTERS.

2. SOCKS

Wear the correct socks.

One option is to buy double layer socks,

like Wrightsocks

Another option is to wear thin sock liners

with your wool socks over.

You can purchase expensive liners

from a sporting goods store,

or ladies can just buy inexpensive white socks

like the ones we wore in the 50's

and wear them under your trekking socks.

You can pick those up in any China store

(which is like a Dollar Store)

in the larger cities of Spain, like Pamplona.

In summer, I do not wear two pair of socks,

but my New Balance trail runners

almost never allow blisters.

I have heard of other folks wearing socks with toes in them.

I tried it one year, and it really hurt my toes.

The extra fabric can really take up a lot of space 

in your shoe.

But if it works for you,

go for it.

I certainly would try it at home first.

In fact, I'd try any of these solutions at home

before heading out for Spain/France.

3. TUBES

One problem I DO have with blisters

is with my small toe,

which overlaps the one next to it.

To keep this toe from rubbing against the other,

I buy gel tubes like the ones below.

You can buy them already cut

or you can buy them in longer tubes 

and cut them to size yourself.

These work great for me!

You can also get these

in almost any farmacia in Spain or SJPP.

4. LAMB's WOOL aka Hiker's Wool

Another option is to use lamb's wool.

You can find it on Amazon.

It comes in small packages and is very lightweight.

You just pull off a piece,

and wind it over and around the toes

that are rubbing together.

Works GREAT!

5. RESTING

When you first start out

you are not used to walking so long each day,

and your feet are going to complain.

Be nice to them!

Every couple of hours,

I stop, 

take off my shoes and socks,

and give my feet a nice rub.

I air them out and rest them for 5-10 minutes

while I have a snack or a drink of water.

Then they are good to go another couple of hours.

6. NO SHOWERING IN THE MORNING!

Get your shower at night before you hit the bed.

That way, your feet have all night to dry out

and harden.

Showering in the morning,

as much as your HEAD may like it,

will lead to BLISTERS!

There is no way to get your feet completely dry.

They will be moist and soft,

and you are more likely to get blisters.

It's amazing the difference this will make.

7. STOP THE MINUTE YOU FEEL A HOT SPOT.

If you are walking, 

and feel a bit of a hot spot starting on your foot,

STOP NOW!

Don't wait until it becomes a blister.

Stop, cover it with Compeed 

or some other dressing before you take another step.

This could keep you from getting a full blown BLISTER.

8. CREAMS/POMADES

People tend to get blisters on places where 

a) their shoe rubs/pinches, 

or

b) their toes rub together.

Some people have great success by rubbing their feet with 

Vicks VapoRub or Vaseline

before putting on their socks.

I have done this between my toes,

and it HAS helped on occasion.

I think it's worth a try if your toes are rubbing together.

You can buy small tubes of Vaseline

in any Farmacia in Spain.

9. TIE SHOES CORRECTLY

Believe it or not

there IS a way to tie your walking shoes correctly.

Check with your manufacturer.

As you can see from the first photo I posted,

on my very first Camino,

my shoes were tied too tightly

across my high instep,

causing a BLISTER.

Since then,

I'm careful not to tie them too tight.

Also, if you are DESCENDING,

be sure your shoes are tight enough around your ankle,

that your toes are not rubbing against the front of the shoes.

This may mean you need to stop and adjust.

10. BE SURE INSERTS FIT

Inserts can be a great help.

I use Motion Control inserts in my New Balance trainers.

They cushion my foot and keep my ankles 

from turning in.

However, be VERY careful when cutting inserts to size.

If you leave just a tiny space between the shoe and the insert,

you are asking for a BLISTER,

as your foot will be pinched with each step.

So cut those inserts carefully. 

11. SOAK FEET AT NIGHT

Most Albergues will have plastic dishpans

that you can fill with 

ICE COLD WATER AND SALT

to soak your feet.

Buy salt at the market if the albergue doesn't have it.

You can also take every opportunity to 

stop at streams and rivers

and soak your feet.

Some Albergues will have ponds,

such as the one at San Bol,

with icy water in which to soak your feet.

This really helps harden your feet,

especially if you use the salt,

and will help swelling

as well as help you not to get blisters.

Plus, it just feels SOOO good!

Soaking at Ligonde

Joe found a stream to soak in.

Find a soaking pan at the albergue!

San Bol has a wonderful pool for soaking

12. ALCOHOL CON ROMERO

Some people, me included, 

love Alcohol con Romero.

It is rubbing alcohol infused with Rosemary.

Yes, it's a bit heavy to carry,

but it is quite inexpensive and 

WONDERFUL for massaging your 

feet and legs after a long day of walking.

Find it in any Farmacia. 

It comes in a variety of bottles,

so just ask for it.

Worth even taking a small empty bottle with you,

so you can carry some along.

13. TO POP OR NOT TO POP?

That really IS the question.

I DO pop my blisters when I get them,

thought I get very few.

Relieving the pressure, 

then covering the blister works for me.

However, I usually do NOT get blisters,

because the minute I feel a hot spot,

I cover it with Compeed.

You then MUST leave the Compeed 

to fall off on it's own.

Removing it will remove a chunk of skin,

so before using Compeed, 

please read my blog post

so you understand how it works. 

You can do a search to the right.

I've heard of people pulling a thread 

through the blister and leaving it.

I don't personally like that idea.

I think that could open you up to an infection.

The Camino is covered with cow manure

and sheep manure

in many place, 

and I think leaving a wet string 

for bacteria to crawl up

might not be a great idea.

So these are some of my suggestions 

for avoiding BLISTERS~

If you have others,

please feel free to list them in the comments below.

Buen Camino!

Annie

Do You Speak Spanish?

 I hear a lot of new pilgrims lamenting, "But I don't speak Spanish!"

Honestly, it's not a problem.

Trying to learn just a few important phrases in Castilian will be very helpful.

Try to learn the following (plus more if you can) and you should be fine:

 Can you help me please?

Where is the bar?

Where is the taxi?

Can you call a taxi for me?

Where is the albergue?

What time does it open/close?

Is there a bathroom nearby?

Can I use the toilet?

How much does that cost?

Please

Thank you

One thing that will NOT help is asking your question in your home language S>L>O>W>E>R and LOUDER and assuming that will help! 

MOST people along the Camino do speak a bit of English, German, French, but if you ask, they will say "No!"  Think about it. Even if you speak high school Spanish, if someone asked you, "Do you speak Spanish?" you probably would answer, "No!" even though you DO understand and speak a bit. It's the same there. Just do your best. The locals will REALLY appreciate your effort and will do all they can to help you. 

There will also ALWAYS be other pilgrims around who speak Spanish. 
You'll be fine.

I promise.

2022 Holy Year!

 

Last week I received from Spain 16 brand new Credentials for the 2022 Holy Year!

This makes it real.  We're going! And I just can't wait.  This last couple of years have been trying for everyone, including me.  So many roadblocks, but we've busted through them all and there's light at the end of the tunnel!

The new Credentials look like they were designed for people walking from Sarria to Santiago. Only one side of the accordian-style booklets have spaces for stamps. So if you are walking an entire route, you will most likely need a second Credential, especially since you will need TWO stamps every day from Sarria.

I finally, after much agonizing, research, and anxiety, got my first COVID vaccination. I chose the Pfizer. The only issues I had with the first round was a sore arm and some pretty impressive exhaustion on Day 2. Not looking forward to the second shot, but AM looking forward to it being over and being able to fly!

Joe and I each have a full group for 2022, and they seem like a great bunch of pilgrims! I have nearly all my reservations made, though not in the larger cities, which appear to be cautiously holding off until later in 2021 to book their 2022  rooms. In fact, Gite Makila, where I HAD booked rooms for 2022, asked me to cancel my reservations until later in the year. So I've been exploring the option of staying only one night in SJPP and staying in a Gite near Orisson on night 2.This means for the first 3 nights, we will stay in "regular" pilgrim lodgings instead of private rooms in SJPP, Orisson, and then Roncesvalles. Honestly, it sounds like fun and I think it would be a great way to begin our Camino. It would mean not having to rush on Day 1 - having a leisurely breakfast before walking. It would mean having the family style dinner with pilgrims from all over the world on Day 2. Then, again, a shorter walk on Day 3.  Then, from Zubiri forward, we would switch to private and double rooms. We'll see how it goes. Several gites have been hurt by the COVID mess and lodgings at the bottleneck from SJPP are not as bountiful as they were before this all began. So we'll just make the best of it - like true Pilgrims - and "let the Camino provide!"

That's all the news for now. I'm in Dallas, Oregon, about 1.5 hours south of Portland and we're going to have two days of record-breaking 100-111 degree weather this weekend. CRAZY! So I'm hunkering down indoors and doing some more planning for 2022. It's making me want to walk sooner so don't be surprised if I don't take off for a few weeks this Autumn... the Camino calls...



 

To Córdoba then ???

I tried updating this post from 2016, and it popped it up here into June 2021.  What the heck!?  Anyway, I don't want to lose the information about Tony and I'm afraid to try to update my Malaga posts, so here it will stay.
*******
What a day!

My new Camino Angel showed up last afternoon in the form of a Peregrino named Tony, an Australian from Antequera (now). Tony is walking to raise money to buy wheelchairs for sick children in Antequera. He s a survivor of a usually fatal leukemia who was one of the few saved by bone marrow transplant. I learned his story over a bottle of wine he shared with me and also learned he too had been snubbed by the French guy!

In the late afternoon, Tony took a short nap and the others were horrified to hear his very healthy SNORING!!! They then, apparently, told him he would have to sleep on a mattress on the floor in the kitchen! When they told me this, I just said, "Gee guys, that's nice of you. He survives death to sleep on the floor!"

But I don't think Tony minded. I know I must sound evil but it gave me great pleasure to hear Tony's LOUD SNORING not only echoing, but amplified up the stairs all night. It literally shook the roof, like a big friendly bear!! I had good earplugs but the French guy woke me up several times tossing and turning. I know it's mean, but it just felt like Karma.

This morning, Tony and I were in great spirits and he had coffee while I waited across the street in the dark for my bus.  I've decided to jump up to the Madrid route to finish the sections I missed last year.

The minute the bus picked me up, I saw Tony leaving and I felt he had been keeping an eye out for me. Bless you, Pilgrim, wherever the Camino takes you!

My bus took me back to Antequera, my only option to get out of town, as it was a fiesta day. I had made a Hostal reservation at Lucena, thinking I might continue walking from there. However the ticket counter was closed today and I was forced to use a cranky machine. I bought a ticket to Lucena, then tried to get a ticket to Córdoba for tomorrow. The ticket machine told me that if I went to Lucena, there was absolutely no option to get to Córdoba from there!!! None. Zip.

I tried a dozen combinations and it said no bus to Córdoba from Lucena. I would have to backtrack to Antequera AGAIN and go to Córdoba from there. At this point it was like the Universe was telling me to just move on. And so I bought ANOTHER ticket to Córdoba, where I knew I could get to Madrid, then Vallodolid.

Imagine my frustration when the damned bus took a 15 minute stop at Lucena!!!! My Canadian friends and I just laughed. This Camino is kicking my butt this year.

So I lost €€€ on the room in Lucena plus I was out for the cost of the one ticket. I complained to the bus driver but he just shrugged and at this point I felt laughing was the best option.

Sooooo... I have already seen Córdoba and am really wanting to walk, (after a day of rest, now) so I got a train ticket to Vallidolid. It was spendy, €82, but so much faster than the bus would have been. It was already turning into a 12 hour trip! Met another angel on the train who helped me make the jump from Atocha to Chamartin in just enough time to catch our train! She was going to Vitoria.

Arrived here starving, stinky, and weary. Found a hotel for €40. Didn't have the energy to look further. I'd like to get onto the Madrid route tomorrow if possible but I don't know. I'm going to shower then check bus schedules. I have not seen Vallodolid but at this rate I am going to run out of funds and I will still need to find a place to hunker down for two weeks from June 1-15 until time to pick up my group.

Ok. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

One thing is for certain, life is an adventure! Isn't it great?!

Annie

 

My first hamburguesa!