Cathedrals and Churches- Logroño

 Today it rained. We slept in, then walked to see three churches; 1) Concatedral de Santa Maria de Redonda, 2) Iglesia de San Barolome, 3) Iglesia Imperial Santa Maria de Palacio. 

 One of my favorites was the second and I didn’t take photos there because they were celebrating the Mass. 

Breakfast was 2,30 Euros

Dinner tonight was a whole roasted chicken 

with fries for 7,50 Euros

Museu de La Rioja

 

We started out the day with breakfast in our room and then got dressed and went to the TI. From there we decided to visit the museum of La Rioja, which was just a few blocks from where we are staying. This was just a fantastic museum. Three floors full of beautiful art and archaeological objects. I really enjoyed the sections on agriculture, since I come from a farming family. Joe, the historian, had a lot to teach me about the religious art. His Catholic background helped a lot and he made me laugh with some of his stories. 

I took a lot of photos. Here are a few. 

We learned the way shepherds could recognize their herd of sheep from the neighbor’s herd was by the sound or the tone of the bells.

Bacchus. 

This head was actually very tiny about the size of a plum but there was so much wonderful detail.

These are all carpenters tools. 

Joe is familiar with many of them

These sculptures of the apostles were life-size 

and were just beautiful

This is the face of John 

Some say depictions of John are sexually ambiguous and some believe 

‘the disciple Jesus loved’ 

was actually Mary Magdalene. 

In this painting John almost appears to have breasts. 

The way he is holding the red cape makes it appear he is holding a body. This is not coincidence. 

A very beautiful, feminine John. 

These sculptures and paintings are so evocative in order to teach people who were illiterate the Bible stories and to encourage devotion and good behavior. I really love them and I think the churches in the United States that are so austere now are missing the point. They don’t engage the imagination the way the statues in paintings do

Common household items of the last century

This is called a TRILLO. If you stay at Casa Reloj in Molinaseca you will see one there. I’ve seen one also at Santa Catalina. This is a heavy agricultural instrument that was used to chop the heads off of the grain and separate the kernels. They would drag it over the grain by animal. 

I am always fascinated by the glassworks

Another beautiful face carved from wood. 

She is sad as Jesus’ body is taken down from the cross

This really is a wonderful museum. If you have any time in Logroño, it’s worth a visit. Very close to Calle Laurel.

 After the museum I was so hungry I could eat my arm, and as we walked through Calle Laurel, it was difficult for me not to stop, but we are on a budget.  We were headed to a bakery we had seen yesterday where you could buy fresh empanadas for $.72 each. We bought our empanadas, stopped by the market for a salad, then headed home. 

We are now resting in our room, making plans for tomorrow. If the weathers good we plan on walking to the Park del Ebro.  Joe has been chomping at the bit to get there because of the historical significance of the river. It is what gives Iberia its name.

Wimping Out

 This weather is driving me nuts. I’m chomping at the bit to walk. However, it is cold and raining, which usually wouldn’t bother me, but this WIND is harsh. I have to pick up my group in Pamplona on the 28th. We were going to walk the next week but I can’t chance getting sick so I’m wimping out. We’ve booked lodging in Logrono and will wait out the storm there. 

Usually I wouldn’t be so paranoid. If I catch cold, I catch cold and keep on walking. However,  Covid has put a whole new spin on things. If I get sick, who will lead my group? Joe has his own group to pick up three days later. We have watched in shock as several people in the airport, bus stations and restaurants have literally taken their masks OFF to sneeze!! WTH PEOPLE!!??  So yeah, I’m concerned about staying healthy and that overrides my desire to walk. I’ll just have to go without training this year. Slow and steady I’ll go. 

A pilgrim was rescued yesterday from the Napoleon route. I tell people that first stage is tough in GOOD weather. I can’t imagine trying to make it in a snowstorm. But people are overconfident and don’t listen. It was a costly mistake. I suspect the cost of her rescue, which she WILL be billed for, will be in the thousands of Euros. 

Anyway, it’s a full week before we walk and I absolutely expect this storm to blow over by then. If not, we can make a decision to taxi or to walk the ValCarlos route. Nothing to do but ride the wave, wait, and see. We do have options. The Camino throws curveballs. It’s to be expected. 

We will be fine!

Love,

Annie

Basicilica of Our Lady of the Pillar and Roman Theater

St. James was back on his way to Palestine after serving as a missionary in Spain (it should be noted he served unsuccessfully because the people did not except the teachings.) As consolation, Our Lady appeared to him and gifted St James with the pillar upon which Our Lord was scourged by the Romans before his crucifixion. 

The pillar lives in this church and can be found under a statue of Our Lady and is covered by a mantle. (If you go around the back, there’s a place where you can kneel and kiss the pillar. However because of Covid, you’re not allowed to kiss the pillar. It is roped off.)

As a result, the Basilica has become a major location or for veneration by the people of Catholicism.

  

Little fish boys statue 

A beautiful alabaster retablo 

Chapel of the Pillar

Carving of the Pillar

Pan photo of the Basilica 

I knew that Veronica had Jesus’s face on a cloth, but we don’t know who this is. If you know please make a comment below.

The statues in these basilicas and cathedrals are so beautiful. 

The Pillar

St  James 

St. Peter Martyr - a Dominican - 

served as Inquisitor in Lombardi. Born in Verona perhaps sympathetic to the Cathars of France. 

He was murdered by an assassin. 

We were able to get the first stamp in our credential 

from a priest here today

After a visit there we stopped for churros and chocolate and then on to the Roman theater. 

Sorry this is not allowing me to put the two photos in order.

  

While excavating for another building in 1972, 

these ruins below were found. 

Archaeologists took over and now 

this Roman Theater is a major attraction in Zaragosa.

Wooden shutters 

The seats originally would have looked like this, 

covered in marble. 

Close up at the wooden shutter. 

I like the sun and moon motif 

Theater masks

Poured concrete archways

It was quite an impressive theater, complete with sunshades that could be pulled over in sun or rain. The shades could be perfumed also. It must’ve been quite beautiful.

Roman Bath and Public Toilets Zaragosa

We really enjoyed our visit to the Roman baths and toilets. 

Here are some photos

The bath itself was huge. It was also in excellent condition.

What was more fascinating than the baths

were the public toilets.

These marble seated toilets ran all the way around the walls. They had running water underneath to catch what went in the hole, and there was clean water running in front of the toilets for people to rinse out their sponges. Apparently there was no embarrassment in doing this duty in front of the whole world. In fact I’ve read in other places that businessman would sit and do business on the toilet, much like they do on their telephones today. Ha ha!

Pretty nice toilets!