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Monday, November 16, 2015

Pamplona - The Mercado Santo Domingo

I've been going through all my photos from past Caminos 
to see what might be of interest to new pilgrims planning their trip.

One way to save cash is to picnic 
or purchase food and cook in the albergue. 
And though Pamplona has a lot of great places for food, including tapas, 
it can be less expensive to go to the market 
and then cook your own.

One gem that is often overlooked in Old Pamplona 
is the Mercado Santo Domingo.  

Instead of giving you directions, 
just pop by the TI (Tourist Info) booth and ask them. 
It's right in Old Pamplona,
 easy to find, 
and a yummy place to visit. 

Here are some photos, along with posted prices, 
of what you might find there:

Look for this sign on the side of the building!
Cheese! This can be purchased by the slice, then weighed.
Cheese is a very good value and is a good thing to carry in your mochila (backpack). 
Just be sure to get a dry cheese, queso seco. 
Ask the vendor for a cheese "para mi mochila" or "para el Camino."  
They'll understand. 
They are used to pilgrims.
Then just show the how much you want, using your fingers. 
They are happy to cut it just the right size!

Sometimes they'll have recipes posted.
Bacalao de Primavera sounds yummy!

Here is a recipe for cooking your bacalao (codfish)

Lots of choices for salted cod. 

Salt cod is one of my favorite backpack foods. 
It does not need to be refrigerated,
though you should keep it as cool as possible
by wrapping it in cloth or newspaper
and burying it in your pack
until you can cook it. 

I've had funny experiences with vendors
refusing to sell me the salted cod
because they think I don't understand how to cook it.
It is preserved in SALT
and the salt must be removed by soaking it 
in changes of fresh cold water
before you cook and eat it.

My grandparents were Portuguese,
and I've eaten a LOT of salted cod (bacalau).
I LOVE it.
My grandmother never refrigerated it, 
but used to hang it in the cool cellar all year. 
One of my favorite recipes is here:

Stewed Bacalau

Soak the cod in clean water overnight if possible, changing the water often. 
If you are not able to soak it overnight 
(which you are NOT if you are walking the Camino), 
then soak for a few hours, 
then put it in clean water and poach slowly, 
changing the water a few times, 
tasting the cod until it is not too salty.

1 large onion - diced
3 cloves garlic - or less if you aren't Iberian! - minced
1 large ripe tomato - diced
1 red bell pepper if you can find it
olive oil

Heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet or pot.
Add the onion and fry until clear., constantly stirring.
Add the garlic and fry until fragrant.
Add the tomato (and bell pepper) and bring to a boil, 
then simmer until it becomes a nice sauce.

Add the fish, and poach the fish for about 10-15 minutes in the sauce, 
using a spoon to immerse the fish in the sauce.

Watch all the other pilgrims start coming around 
when they smell what you're cooking!

Serve with ensalada and share if you have enough!

It looks a lot like this photo of Bacalau Guisado I found on the internet.
Makes my mouth water just looking at the photo!

Lots of fresh vegetables are available in the mercado!

The quality of the produce at the market is exceptional and you'll pay a lot less than you will in a supermarket because you're purchasing directly from the farmer.

There are many choices of where to buy

You will also find other meats; pork, beef, chicken.

The fruit in Spain is also lovely. 
Just remember, you're not in the USA. 
Do not touch the fruit!
Just point to what you want, indicate the number, and let them bag it for you.
You don't have to worry.
It's all good!

Other fish choices.

Would you care for pulpo? Squid or octopus?

You will also find eggs, dried fruits, nuts, bread, 
and just about anything else you can think of in the market. 

Boiled eggs are a good snack for your next day's walk 
over Alto Perdon.
A couple of eggs, an orange, a banana, and you're set!

Go take a look! It's a wonderful place.

Buen Camino!

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