Portomarin 2015

Joe writes:


Yesterday we all survived the treacherous descent from Villacha down to the picturesque Embalse de Belesar and the "Devil's Bridge" that provides access to the tranquillo town of Portomarin.

Even though we had made an early start from Sarria, by the time we reached Albergue Ultreia we were hot and just a little bit weary. But there is nothing to compare to the sunny smiles of hospitaliteras Carmen and Christina, so right away we found our spirits renewed by their excellent care and winning disposition. Carmen even carried one of our transport bags up the stairs to our rooms as we checked in. It was a mochila nearly as big as she.

As usual Ultreia is clean as a whistle, with all the essential needs for pilgrims. And this year they have also installed television sets in the rooms and dining room. So now we can get the latest in Spanish cooking tips and football clips, without having to be reminded about the urgent realities back in our home countries.

Before long, it was the consensus to have an impromptu tea on the balcony of Janet & Gretchen's room, which the girls were happy to host. What a special surprise when Carmen suddenly appeared with a huge Tarta de Santiago as a welcoming gift for us. After we all enjoyed this especial dulce, there was plenty left over to have with breakfast the next morning. Yogurt never tasted so good.





There are not enough superlatives to use in describing the attention and care with which Albergue Ultreia lavishes our Anniewalkers. Muchas Gracias Carmen y Christina. We missed seeing 2nd daughter Noemi this time, but there is always next year when we may be lucky enough to see all three ladies at once.



Sorry about the poor quality - this is a photo of a photo!


Pat proposed an early start for the next morning, to beat the heat, and after brief negotiations it was decided to leave by 7:00, which all agreed would ensure that we would at least be on the Camino by 7:30. It is that difficult to say goodbye to such a wonderful place.

By 9:30 next morning we were already at the handy bar at Gonzar, and the crowd of other pilgrims could not deter us from having a well-deserved proper american breakfast of bacon, fried eggs, french fries, toast & coffee. Not everyone ate the full menu, but those who did were well-fortified for the long but scenic walk to Palas de Rei.






Halfway to Palas de Rei, at Ventas fe Naron , we found the tiny chapel of St. Magdelena open and attended by a local man providing sellos for pilgrims inquisitive enough to peek into the dark doorway of the chapel. The chapel is very small, with no windows. And the door faces away from the camino, so that it is not readily apparent to most that one can make a visit. Since there is a bar with a very popular terrace that obscures the chapel, the chances of even realizing a visit is possible are also diminished.




The chapel attendant graciously welcomed us and asked for our credentials so he could stamp them with the sello. He spoke only Spanish, and asked us to place the stamp machine on the credential so he could apply the sello. It seemed odd that he wanted us to guide his hand and the stamp to where we wanted the sello on the credential. Then after he made the same routine with another pilgrim, we realized that he was blind.

Nothing else in his appearance or actions could have given us a clue. His reverence and devotion to his work and the Magdelena gave a whole new world of meaning to the ink on papel.