2006
At the far end of Ciraqui
was a recently restored stretch of Roman Road,
which Joe examined closely.
Though most of the Camino follows
the Roman Via Traiana,
the Roman Via Traiana,
these are some of the most spectacular remains.
According to Gitlitz, Roman roads were built pretty much the same as roads are built today. Surveyors decided on the best routes. Shallow trenches were scooped out, then filled with gravel, tamped down, then filled with sand. The borders were marked with large rocks and the roadbed laid with closely fitted stones. Wedge-shaped stones were driven in to clamp the larger stones together. The roads were slightly higher in the center to facilitate drainage. Sometimes larger roads near cities were paved with different colored stones signifying the lanes of traffic. And often, you can see a ridge line between the two lanes, as in the example above.
A beautiful home |
"Beware from drinking its waters or from watering your horse in its stream, for this river is deadly. While we were proceeding towars Santiago, we found two Navarrese seated on its banks and sharpening their knives: they make a habit of skinning the mounts of the pilgrims that drink from that water and die. To our questions they answered with a lie saying that the water was indeed healthy and drinkable. Accordingly, we watered our horses in the stream, and had no sooner done so, than two of them died: these the men skinned on the spot. [CC: BookV; trans. Melczer, 88-89]
I was so grateful for this fountain at Lorca with its ice cold water! |
We are now in Bruja country
and little witches are to be seen everywhere.
Do you see the witch? |
The walking is hot and dusty, but beautiful.
After Lorca, we passed through Villatuerta.
Many hermits lived in these hills
in the 10th and 11th century.
There are some remains of their culture
in the Museu de Navarra in Pamplona.
Villatuerta |
In the Middle Ages, Estella (also known as Lizarra) was the center of the royal court of Navarra and it was a major stopping point on the Camino Santiago de Compostela.
The most important monuments in Estella are on the edge of town. The Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa is built on the top of a cliff and features a Mudéjar-influenced, sculpted doorway.
There is also the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra on the other side of the Plaza de San Martin, the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, and the Iglesia de San Miguel.
The name Lizarra means Old Church and Ezizrra means Old Town, and the city is known by all three names, depending on who is speaking. It began in 1090 when King Sancho Ramírez decided to build a commercial center for foreign merchants here and to encourage the settlement of Francos, who flocked from French Auvergne and Limousin.
Medieval Estella had castles on each of her 4 hills.
Similar to Pamplona, within a hundred years of its founding, Estella developed into 3 distinct, separately walled, and often warring neighborhoods: San Pedro, San Juan, and San Miguel. Navarros, Francos, and Jews lived separately.
Wars with Castilla and squabbles between local clans took their toll on Estella during the 14th and 15th centuries. The black plague struck in 1348, 1362, 1380, 1400, and 1420, and recluded the city from 829 hearths in 1366 to 431 in 1427.
Estella had numerous hospices for pilgrims. In each of the major parishes a brotherhood (cofradía) maintained a hospice, providing beds and rudimentary meals. With the 16th century decline of the pilgrimage, the hospices fell on hard times and eventually were combined into one.
There was a charter in Estella in 1164 prohibiting abuses of pilgrims.
The albergue at Estella |
Soaking our weary feet |
Cloisters |
2009
The walk to Estella was beautiful this year, but long.
It warranted a foot soaking for me and other peregrinas.
It warranted a foot soaking for me and other peregrinas.
Walking here, we encountered a few sections
of old cobbled Roman Road.
of old cobbled Roman Road.
The road is interesting, but tough on the tootsies!
On our way to Estella, we crossed the Medieval Bridge over the Rio Salado.
In the hills are traces of various ermitas in this area.
The Ermita de San Miguel
can be seen for many kilometers.
We stopped there for a break
and ate almonds that had fallen from the trees.
The albergue in Estella is very nice!
The hospitaleros were very friendly and helpful.
Ermita de San Miguel |
Estella in the Distance |
The Ermita de San Miguel
can be seen for many kilometers.
We stopped there for a break
and ate almonds that had fallen from the trees.
Inside the Albergue at Estella - Photo by Kialoa3 |
The hospitaleros were very friendly and helpful.
2012
Spring Group
Today the walkers go to Estella.
Catherine and Mimi |
This is made from old recycled car tires! |
Taking a break! |
Church of the Assumption in Villatuerta |
Pilgrim Petitions on the Hermitage Altar |
Our pilgrims seem to be settling in nicely.
They each are walking at their own pace, some starting at dawn and others getting a later start.
I have backed off and given them space
and they are all walking their own Camino,
and they are all walking their own Camino,
which was the goal.
Our baggage transfer company
has been doing a nice job picking up
and delivering our bags.
has been doing a nice job picking up
and delivering our bags.
The latest driver came early the last two days
but I've been assured
he will no longer come before 8 am.
he will no longer come before 8 am.
Last night we slept at Hostal Christina in Estella.
It was a very nice place and the lady Christina was very concerned about my cold,
asking if I needed medicine or hot milk.
I love the Spanish people!
I love the Spanish people!
This morning I'm still not feeling 100% human so I'm hoping to bus one more day.
Right now I'm having juice
in this awesome pastry shop called
Boutique Ega Pan.
in this awesome pastry shop called
Boutique Ega Pan.
They also have wi-fi for their customers
and my-oh-my,
and my-oh-my,
their chocolate-filled pastries are to die for!!!
Ok. I'm off.
Hopefully there will be a bus for me.
The weather is holding and my group is doing great!
I hope all is well back home.
Love,
Annie
2012
Autumn Group
Breakfast in Puente La Reina
was one of these lovely pastries!
Good thing I'm walking!
It was still dark as we passed through town.
Sunrise was striking!
The early morning coolness
made for nice walking.
I'm in love with the doors I see in Spain!
Looks like the CIRCUS is in town in Ciraqui!
Father Jeffrey and I share a love for cemeteries.
I must stop at each one.
I must stop at each one.
Phallic symbols? |
Soon, we could see Ciraqui
up on the hill ahead.
The name, "Ciraqui" means den of serpents.
The streets were full of drunk teens,
still partying after last night's festival.
These are VERY tall standing stones, taller than the houses. |
Shields hanging from balconies in Ciraqui. |
Narrow streets of Ciraqui. |
Some funny Peregrino graffiti. |
Another fallen Pilgrim |
This man is roasting red peppers. |
Waymark |
Flat and dry |
We meet Judive on the road, still with her new walking partner. |
What ARE these berries? |
We pass the Ermita of San Miguel,
and then while taking the bridge over the Rio Ega,
we see this 3 legged horse!
I decide it's time to count my blessings!
Somebody must have loved this horse. He got around fine! |
Stencil on steel bridge. |
We finally made it into Estella.
We stayed at Hostal Cristina,
a lovely old pension ran by an elderly couple.
The place is filled with lovely antique furniture
and is very conveniently located.
I felt we were very lucky to get reservations there.
Joe and I went down to the square to eat
and while sitting people-watching,
we saw these bad little boys,
totally destroying a restaurant chair
just for fun.
The thing was,
nobody did a darned thing about it!
They just destroyed the property
and nobody seemed to care.
I pretended to call the police
and they ran away.
Little buggers... where were their parents?!
Bad boys! |
Joe and I found this 50's diner
and had a GREAT hamburger and fries for our dinner
for the grand price of 5 euros!
Add caption |
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