Anniesantiago13: Pilgrim Lodgings - What Are They Like? 2022

Hola Peregrinos!

This will be a photo-heavy blog about lodgings on the Camino. As I explained in the previous post, there is a wide range when it comes to places to sleep.

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Parochials are run by the Catholic Church. They are almost always "donativo" and you often will sleep on mats on the floor. Please don't let that put you off. The mats are amazingly comfortable; sometimes more comfortable than lumpy beds! And they almost always will feed you dinner and breakfast.

Remember, "donativo" does NOT mean FREE!

It means donation,

and YOUR donation feeds the pilgrims

that sleep here tomorrow,

so be generous.

If they give me only a bed, I usually leave at least €8-10. If they feed me, I leave €15 to €20.
If you think that is a lot,

tell me where in YOUR country

can you get a clean, safe place to sleep

and a nice dinner for $20?

Some parochial albergues, such as the one in Leon, will have separate rooms for men and women.
Others will put everyone together.

Municipal albergues are run

by the local village government.

The hospitaleros who manage them,

may or may not have walked the Camino.

Prices are generally set and there is a wide range.
Men and women are housed together,

but often have separate bathroom/showers.

Bathrooms CAN be coed.

Associated albergues are sponsored by religious institutions (like confraternaties) or by pilgrim groups from different countries around the world (like the American Pilgrims on the Camino). One example of an associated albergue is San Nicolás near Itero de la Vega in Stage 15 (there are two different San Nicolas albergues). It is run by an Italian confraternity and is a WONDERFUL experience! Another example is Guacelmo in Rabanal del Camimo in Stage 23. These can be donativo, but most ask for a nominal fee. They are staffed by volunteers who almost always have walked the Camino themselves. They often have rules other albergues may not have. For example, you are not allowed to stay at Guacelmo if you have booked bag transport.

You MUST carry your own backpack.

Some, like San Nicolás will serve dinner.

Others, like Guacelmo, offer a kitchen

where you can cook for yourself.

In parochial, municipal, and associated albergues, you will almost never get clean sheets each day, although some have gone to using paper bed covers, which are nice. Most will provide a pillow, but no clean pillowcase. Most will provide blankets, though this is being stopped in some albergues due to the bedbug issue.

Private albergues are owned by private parties. They are (in my opinion) often cleaner, but you will also pay more. Most privates give you linens, including a towel. Most change the sheets and pillowcases each day. Every private I've used supplies blankets. Most are very clean and upscale as they are in competition with other privates in the area and depend on good reviews.

These albergues may have one bed or may have 100 beds. The beds may be split up into separate rooms,

or they may all be in one room.

Men and women usually have separate shared bathrooms.

Many albergues listed above will have a common space kitchen, or at least a place to boil water (microwave). Most with a kitchen will provide cutlery, cooking pots, refrigerator, etc. Some, especially in Galicia, will have a beautiful kitchen with not one pot or plate or piece of silverware. I asked about this once, and was told that pilgrims stole it all, and they refused to replace it.

Hostels exist all along the route.

A hostel might have several beds in one room

for one price (€10+)

or they may offer a few private rooms

for singles or dobles (€20+).

Hostels often have a common kitchen.

The private rooms almost always include clean linens.

The dorm rooms may not - just ask.

The price may or may not include breakfast next morning.

Casa Rurals are all along the route.

These are regular houses.

Sometimes the host family lives in them.

Sometimes not.

For me, these are a treat that I really enjoy.

Prices for a room usually start around €30 for a single

and go up, depending on how fancy the place is.

You often have use of the kitchen.

Apartamentos Touristicos are apartments that are rented for one or more nights. This can really be a value if you're traveling in a group. I usually can expect to pay €100 for an apartment that will sleep up to 8 people, depending on if they need twin beds or not.

Hotels are just that - hotels.

DOBLE vs. MATRIMONIAL.

It's important to know, if you are booking lodging ahead for two pilgrims who are not related,

that a DOBLE is often what we would call

a single double bed in the USA.

It is one bed meant for 2 people to sleep in.

If you need TWO beds,

you must be sure to ask for "dos camas individuales."

A single double bed is also referred to as a "matrimonial." A bunkbed is called a "litera."

Booking ahead.

Parochials and Municipals generally will NOT allow you to book ahead.

First come, first serve is the way they operate.

However, privates, hostels, casa rurals, apartments, and hotels will all allow you to book ahead.

In the last year or so,

more and more albergues are allowing pilgrims

to book ahead.

PASSPORTS.

Do not worry if the hostelier asks you

to surrender your passport.

Spanish law requires them to record your information

and it is common, especially if they are busy,

for them to take your passport when you check in.

They will return it either that night or in the morning.

Nobody wants to keep your passport.

If you have questions or comments,

please leave them at the bottom of the blog

or go to my Facebook page, Camino Santiago Planning.

Next, I'll post some photos for you,

so you can get an idea of what to expect.

These will be in no particular order.

You should be able to click on the photos

to make them larger.

Private - Santiago

Roncesvalles - Old Albergue

Zubiri Municipal

Trinidad de Arre

Trinidad de Arre has a nice sala

Trinidad de Arre dorm

Two-bed albergue at Uterga - closed now :(

Gite in SJPP

Dinner with Priest at Parochial in Viana

Sahagun Albergue has little cubbies

Old Burgos Albergue

Casa Morgade Private

Not my photo - but this is what it's like! lol!

Private doble twin

My breakfast in bed at the Parador in Sto. Domingo del Calzada!

Private in Espinoza

Family Style Dinner at San Anton

Guillena Albergue - VDLP

Castilblanco - VDLP

Sleeping out - VDLP

Sometimes a wee bathtub makes a Private worth the cash!

Albergue Refugio de Jesus - Vilar de Mazariffe

Sleeping outside at Municipal in Molinaseca b/c I found bedbugs inside!

Nice kitchen at Guacelmo in Rabanal del Camino

Manjarin - one of my favorites!

Sometimes a private is just what the doctor ordered - I was sick

Quad room at Casa Morgade

Cacabelos Municipal - 2 beds to a room - but check for bedbugs and don't be afraid to ask for a different room if you find them!

VERY crowded Municipal at Sarria - so many other great places to stay there

Nice new kitchen in Portomarin Municipal

El Real de la Jara Municipal - VDLP - cool little hobbit house!

Obanos

Obanos - never again - this was the rudest damned guy

Some places just leave a bad taste in your mouth, and this place at Obanos was one of them. The hospitalero, a priest, was mean as a snake. The pilgrims came into the place in FREEZING wind, and he refused to issue blankets. He told us we should have a sleeping bag. Well, we DID, but we were frozen to the bone. He finally, after about 20 people begged, gave us blankets, but begrudgingly and with nasty looks. When I tried to use the kitchen to heat water for cocoa, he followed me in and GLARED at me as though I was going to steal something. I believe this was the worst night I've ever spent on the Camino and I will never darken this door again. Perhaps he was just having an off day, but I cannot, in good conscience, recommend this place.