Roncesvalles is an autonomous community of northern Spain and is in Navarra province. It lies 3,220 feet above sea level and is northeast of Pamplona. Nestled in this "Valley of Thorns" in the foothills of the Pyrenees is an Augustinian monastery. Traditionally, the hospital at Roncesvalles received “pilgrims and otherswho might wish to lodge at the peak near the chapel of Charlemagne." The papacy assumed responsibility for the maintenance and running of the hospital.
The monastery at Roncesvalles has always been of major importance to the Camino. It was once one of the wealthiest on the entire route and was famous for the treatment which pilgrims received here. A 12th century poem sings the praises of the monastery´s legendary hospitality:
Monastery records from as late as the 17th century speak
of up to 25,000 meals being served to hungry pilgrims
in a year´s time, with the number reaching as high as 30,000 in some years.
The numbers of pilgrims passing through Roncesvalles currently rivals that of the pilgrimage´s original golden age. By July 2011, a Holy Year, over 1000 pilgrims per day received a Compostela, and many passed through the villageon their way to Santiago de Compostela.
In 1132, the hospital was transferred to the spot where it stands today.
In 1984, the chapter passed to the control of the archbishop of the city.
In the 15th century the hospital was temporarily closed. Two fires in 1445 and 1468 caused great devastation, but only briefly interrupted the work of the hospital.
The collegiate church was consecrated in 1219. It is considered to be one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture in Spain. Fires, a constant hazard in the medieval era reduced much of the collegiate church to ashes. It was lovingly and painstakingly restored in 1940.
The Colegiata Real or Sala Capitular (chapter house), has served pilgrims down through the centuries. It is also known as La Preciosa (“the beautiful”).
"The door lies open to all, to sick and strong,
Not only to Catholics but to pagans too
Jews, heretics,
idlers, vagabonds,
In short, to good and bad, sacred and profane."
Monastery records from as late as the 17th century speak
of up to 25,000 meals being served to hungry pilgrims
in a year´s time, with the number reaching as high as 30,000 in some years.
The numbers of pilgrims passing through Roncesvalles currently rivals that of the pilgrimage´s original golden age. By July 2011, a Holy Year, over 1000 pilgrims per day received a Compostela, and many passed through the villageon their way to Santiago de Compostela.
In 1132, the hospital was transferred to the spot where it stands today.
In 1984, the chapter passed to the control of the archbishop of the city.
In the 15th century the hospital was temporarily closed. Two fires in 1445 and 1468 caused great devastation, but only briefly interrupted the work of the hospital.
The collegiate church was consecrated in 1219. It is considered to be one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture in Spain. Fires, a constant hazard in the medieval era reduced much of the collegiate church to ashes. It was lovingly and painstakingly restored in 1940.
The Colegiata Real or Sala Capitular (chapter house), has served pilgrims down through the centuries. It is also known as La Preciosa (“the beautiful”).
In 1600 the cloister was demolished by a severe fall of snow. The poor standard of the reconstruction offended many artistic and religious sensibilities.
The Capilla de Sancti Spiritus or Silo de Carlomagno (XII century)
is built over the graves of pilgrims who only made it this far. The 13th century Capilla de Santiago is much admiredfor its Romansque-Gothic architectural style. The bell is known for guiding pilgrims in from the Pyrenees snow.
The Virgin of Roncesvalles (aka the Virgin of Orisson) celebrates her feast dayon the 8th of September, Mary's nativity. But it is in Spring when most of the towns and the valleys around make their pilgrimage
to the Virgin of the Pyrenees.
From the Roncesvalles webpage:
Of all the pilgrimages to the Virgin of Roncesvalles,
the one of Arce Valley and the one of Oroz- Betelu,
which are done together, are the most constant in history.
It has been celebrated since the 16th century,
although it must have been celebrated even before then.
The pilgrims set off from 2 places:
from Oroz Betelu at 6 am in the morning and from Arrieta at 7 am.
The pilgrims from Azparren, Olaldea,
Gorraiz and Artozqui go in the first procession,
and those from Lusarreta, Saragüeta, Urdíroz, Uriz, Muniáin,
Arrieta, Villanueva, Imizcoz, Espoz and Lacave go in the second.
Both reach the crossroad and continue,
each town singing its songs and praying the Rosary.
The parish crosses close each walk
and precede the mayor of the town,
who walks with his staff of office.
The pilgrims walk in two rows,
with the crosses on their backs
and holding them by the short side, with lifted arms.
When the Collegiate is sighted, and the Rosary is finished,
people start singing the litanies.
The "ora pro nobis" is something that has been repeated
during many centuries in the same place,
and it represents a clamour for forgiveness, happiness,
praise and compliments to the Mother.
The chapter welcomes the pilgrims, led by the prior,
and all of them enter the church to celebrate a large mass,
to confess, and offer their presents to the Virgin.
The meal begins after the mass,
with the traditional "caldico" at the pilgrims' hostel.
In the towns, people eat "perretxicos"
(a kind of mushroom),
trout, lamb, and "cuajada,"
a type of curdled cheese
When the meal is over, and it is getting dark,
in the Arce Valley and in Oroz Betelu, historic songs are sung,
whose melodies are used to conclude the day of celebration.
After this celebration, the pilgrims return home with renewed hopes.
In the best seller "Iberia," James Michener speaks of going on a picnic in Roncesvalles.
“The success of our picnic was assured by the fine tins Potter had brought and by the rare site I had selected. But insurance was taken out when Bob Daley, fearing that we didn’t have enough food, stopped in the town of Espinal, and while we studied the fine modernistic church quite radical in its architecture, he bought an extra loaf of bread and in doing so acquired a culinary masterpiece; it was round and flat, about the size of a large chair cushion and not more than 2 inches thick, so that it was practically all crust and better crust was never baked.”
He continues, “I had in mind a spot well beyond the monastery of Roncesvalles. A spot where a small stream came out of a woods, but …she caught sight of a meadow far below the road where 7 rivulets converged, their banks lined with moss-covered trees. We lugged out tins and bottles and Bob Daley’s marvelous chunk of bread down to the 7 streams and there in a glade so quiet, so softly green that it seemed as if defeated knights might have slept in it the evening before, we spread our blankets and prepared the meal.”
The albergue at Roncesvalles was HUGE and COL
when I first visited in 2006
There were over 100 beds in one giant hall.
It was quite an experience
and for a first time pilgrim, it was very exciting!
So many people with the same goal
crammed into such a small space;
some too excited to sleep, others too exhausted to speak.
 |
| Old Albergue |
Today the albergue has been completely remodeled,
and it is much more comfortable
with more privacy.
 |
| New Albergue |
If you don't care to sleep in the albergue, there are hotels where you can make private reservations; Casa de Beneficiados, La Posada de Roncesvalles, Hotel Roncesvalles, and Casa Sabina.
Wherever you decide to sleep,
be sure and make your dinner reservations
when you arrive in Roncesvalles.
The local trout is not to be missed!
It is usually served with pasta or ensalada, bread, and wine.
After you shower and do your laundry,
spend some time taking care of your feet.
A nice foot rub will make them happy.
And don't jump out of bed too fast in the morning,
for they may not hold you
without a little encouragement.
It has been a long hard climb
and they have the right to be stiff and sore.
Rest assured,
from here forward, the Way is easier.
***
If you choose to begin your Camino in Roncesvalles,
I suggest the best way to get there is to fly into Pamplona. From Pamplona, during the Pilgrim Season, there are inexpensive buses to Roncesvalles that run each day.
I believe the bus line is Artieda.
I believe Alsa also runs during the Pilgrim Season.
Off season, you can book a taxi with Caminofacil
or other taxi companies.
You might also share a ride with BlaBlaCar.
Next, we'll look at starting in St. Jean Pied de Port.
Until then,
Buen Camino!
Annie
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