A Busy Day Planning My Camino

Wow!

I'm doing a Happy Dance today!

I woke up and couldn't believe I had actually purchased a ticket yesterday!

I guess old age has made me fearless, 

because I really do NOT have the money for this trip. 

Luckily, one can walk in Spain almost cheaper than staying at home!

Today is a planning day. 

I have so much to do!

I got on the Godesalco website this morning 

and made a loose plan of my trip, 

based on some tips from my Camino friend, Laurie, 

who walked this route last year.

If you are planning a Camino, this is a great website. 

You can put in your beginning and ending places,

 and it will give you a list of towns, showing facilities that are available. 

Then you can pick which towns you will stop in and at the end, 

there are several options for printing,

 including an elevation profile of your walk.

Profile Example

There are several stages over 30 kilometers in the guidebooks,
and my old feet won't walk that far.
So I'm figuring out ways to break those stages in pieces.

My comfort limit is about 20-24 k per day,
which translates to 12-14 miles.
Luckily, most of the terrain on the first part of the VDLP is flat walking,
or gently rolling hills.
The rough stuff comes later in Galicia,
 after I've gotten into better shape.

Looks like it should take me around 40-45 days to complete the VDLP,
barring problems.

That leaves me another 30 days to play on the Camino Frances,
and to visit Little Fox House in Muxia. 

Praia do Lago, on the beach trail to The Little Fox House!

Today I have to order a new clothesline.
I lost mine on the last trip.
I love this one from the Rick Steves website.
 It's about $10 and works great without pins or pegs.
 It also is more sturdy than others I've used.

 

I'll spend one night in Madrid.

Then.. I'll take RENFRE or a bus to Seville.

 I haven't decided yet which way I'll go. 

I am 60 now and eligible for a nice little card 

that will give me 20-40% discounts on travel and hotel arrangements. 

So I'll pick that up in Madrid,

 then decide which way is the least expensive way to get to Seville, 

where I've made reservations for two nights at Pension Vergara.

This place looks a little cluttered, but fun! 

And it's right across the way from the Cathedral, 

so it will be very convenient.
Hopefully it won't be perfumed,
in which case I'll have to find other lodging.

Here is what the website says about this Pension:

Hostal-Pensión Vergara is a restored convent in the Santa Cruz district, 250 metres from Seville Cathedral. 
Set on a quiet pedestrian street, it offers free Wi-Fi and a 24-hour reception.
Air-conditioned rooms at the Vergara feature tiled floors and come with a safe and work desk. 
Set around a garden patio, all have shared bathroom facilities and some have a private balcony.
There are vending machines for drinks. 
Many shops, bars and restaurants can be found within a short walk of the Vergara. 
Luggage storage is offered and there is a tour desk. 
Public parking is available nearby for an extra charge.

I'm spending two days in Seville so I can take a day to visit Italica again.
These wonderful Roman ruins are fascinating and worth a few hours.
I think I'll do a blog on Italica later today if I have the time.

Right now, I must get dressed and get busy!  
I have to figure out what gear I'll need.
I'm considering leaving my down sleeping bag home
and making a microfleece sleep sheet.
I want my pack to be as light as possible.

Hoping to keep it simple,
Love,
Annie

Resting at Casa Morgade and on to Portomarin

The last photo are of Katie, Lon, and Patty enjoy a break at Casa Morgade. We picked up Lon and his daughter Katie in Sarria. They are a delightful addition to our walking group!

I had to take these photos if the dog begging one pilgrim for a bite if his bocadillo
while the other pilgrim dressed his sore foot.

After a short rest at Casa Morgade, 

we were off on our way to Portomarin,

where we stayed at Albergue Ultreia.

It is always sad to see graffiti on ancient treasures.

Makes me wonder if it's Pilgrims

or ignorant local children.

 This pilgrim has a good idea.

He's PUSHING his pack to Santiago!

We stop for lunch near Ferreiros.

Spanish tuna makes a great sammie!

This was a beautiful cross and tribute,

to what I'm not sure?

All along The Way 

we see many many crosses.

Some are decorated like this one,

by Pilgrims walking by.

Others are stark.

All serve as a reminder to the suffering

of a Pilgrim,

as well as other more religious reminders

to some.

This section of Spain is so pretty to me!

 A lovely cup of tea!

Tribute to the Pope.

My shoes are ready for a rest.

A horreo against a dark blue sky. 

These are made to hold grain, mostly corn.

They are protected by the government

and may not be dismantled.

Some are wooden, like this one.

Others are made of brick and/or stone.

 I just can't stop taking photos of the blue sky!

Our path today, in this section, is paved.

After a steep climb down into the river valley,

we see OLD Portomarin.

The water is very low.

This is the first time I've seen this many buildings

which were covered by water when the government

flooded the village in the 1950's.

We crossed the bridge to the village.

It was VERY high, 

and although stable,

when the wind blows,

you feel like you're going to be blown off into the water below.

It's a HUGE drop,

and even I,

who am not afraid of heights,

felt a bit woozy crossing.

I wish I had a photo of this bridge,

but do not.

I'll take one next year.

Most of us stay at Albergue Ultreia,

a wonderful place with both dorms and private rooms.

It is exceptionally clean and well-run.

Here is a wee photo of one of their private rooms.

You can see more photos on their website

at the following link:

Albergue Ultreia Portomarin

Once we settled in, 

many of the ladies brought food and drink

and we had a celebration out on the balcony.

These ladies know how to party!

Thanks!

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

Arzua to Arca - Chanterelles?

On our way to Arca today we walked through miles of eucalyptus forest.
Mycology is an interest of ours and we were looking at the various types of mushrooms growing on the forest floor, many familiar as also growing in Oregon.

Suddenly we gasped as we recognized a bright orange friend that we don't usually see until October...could it be...??!??

It was a chanterelle! Not one, but a bank full! They were small and would have been perfect for eating in a couple of weeks but we are here now. So...we picked enough for our morning omelette.

I wonder why the chanterelles are out so early? Maybe Mother Nature is tricking the shroomies as well as the pilgrim with this Autumn-like weather?

We picked quite a few for tomorrow's breakfast... yum!

Soon we arrived at Pension Maribel. This little albergue sits next door to another one called Pension Arco Pino.

Both are lovely. Both have a nice common area where you can cook. They have free wi-fi and Arco Pino has a beautiful garden where you can relax. Highly recommended.

Arco Pino uses an air freshener that gives me a migraine, however, so I usually settle into Maribel. We were offered the downstairs apartment at Pension Maribel. It was a luxurious rest with our own living room and terrace. We were able to get all of our laundry done for our trek on the Pelgrimspad beginning in two days.

Thank you, Maribel, for your generosity!

Bedroom at Maribel. See Fall trip for more photos.

We went into the kitchen to have a late afternoon coffee and found this note waiting for us along with some yummy treats!  Small things like the sharing of food makes the Camino experience a sweet one.

To Arzua

Today looks like a beautiful day for walking. Good thing because its a long stage - over 29 kilometers according to Brierley. But our walkers should be in shape for it by now.  

Here is the view out my window at Pension Palas:

Two more days to Santiago! 

The walk to Arzua began sunny and warm. We stopped in St. Xulian for breakfast at this beautiful Albergue set in an old casa rural. I'd love to stay here sometime!

The owner had walked the Camino 4 times and really understands what the pilgrim needs. The rooms have 6 beds. Beds are 10 euros They do have 2 privates and they do take reservations.

 Just a short walk out of St Xulian is this interesting house with a cat window where you can get Massage and Reiki.

Just a short walk out of St Xulian is this interesting house with a cat window where you can get Massage and Reiki.

Much of today's walk was on easy dirt track through woodlands.

We had heard of an interesting phallus carving on one of the small churches along the way, so we kept our eyes peeled. We found it a corbel of the church at Leboreiro (Field of Hares) on the way to Melide. I'm amazed it has survived. I wonder what it signifies... Fertility?

We stopped for pulpo and bacalau in Meride. The lady cooking was moving more than the octopus! Lunch was great! I recommend you share a SMALL plate of pulpo and have your own bowl of the best Caldo Gallego I have tasted in Spain!

My kids will know this kale potato soup as Querves.

There were other pulpo bars but this one is right on the Camino as you come into town and they actually have a hawker pulling people in.

 I think you might get better prices up the road but we were very happy with our lunch.

Soon, the rain began and got worse as the day went by.

Bob and Evette crossing one of the small streams on the trail. This was a really pretty section to walk today, even in the rain! The smell of eucalyptus was strong in the air and the frogs were singing up a storm!

The last 2 hours of our walk today, the skies broke open and it poured.

I shared a cab with two other walkers after going about 22 k but Joe wanted to finish the 30 kilometers.

Joe said it was raining so hard he had to hold the hood down on his Altus to keep the rain from blowing into his eyes so he could see the waymarkers.

He, Brenda, Mauve, Bob and Evette arrived looking like drowned pilgrims. But they were smiling. They DID it!

Congratulations!

This lovely Pension Arcano has a beautiful terrace where we are drying out our clothes.

I'm not sure why...tomorrow's forecast is RAIN!

A Bus Day For Me to Palas de Rei

This morning the cold in my chest continues to hang on,
so I decided today would be a bus day for me.

As I said goodbye to the other walkers,
prepared in various stages of rain and walking gear,
I felt a little sad because today is some of my favorite walking.
However, I need to stay warm and shake this cold.

I guess this nasty bug is making its way around in peregrino land because about 5 other pilgrims, all grasping Kleenex or hankies, joined me in the bus to Lugo, where we will catch an Empresa Freire to Palas.

Several pilgrims were treated to Fred's now-famous French toast for breakfast this morning. Now THAT is a good way to make pilgrims happy!

Teresa and Miranda made an early start, as did Brenda.
 Joe took off next with Maeve close behind, followed by Bob and Evette

The Hong Kong hikers are starting later these days but are still smoking us on the trail. Those ladies are in excellent condition!

Fred and Judi and I left last. They have a wonderfully relaxed pace that I admire. Taking time to enjoy each moment on the trail is a special skill.

Each person in this group seems to have really found their own way of walking. It's been encouraging watching their strength. Some have grown in leaps and bounds. Some in more subtle ways.

I've learned a lot about myself on this trip. Seems there is always a lesson waiting round the next bend.

Just another reason I love the Camino.

The bus stop

I had to catch a small bus to the big bus station.

The fare here from Portomarin was 2,50 euros.

Much less than a taxi.

The bus left Portomarin at 9:15 am.

Here is the big bus to Palas.

The fare was 2,80 euros. It leaves at 11 am.

Below is a photo of our lodging.
Pension Palas at Palas de Rei is a great Pension.

 Up above the town, we have views of the surrounding hills 

and the local lavadero used by women to wash clothes 

until fairly recent times.

The path to this pension is clearly marked from the Camino 

Just turn right at the Cabanas (there is a sign saying Pension Palas). 

Walk down the hill to the main road. 

Turn left onto the highway. 

You can now see the pension in the distance 

Turn left at the next street (another sign). 

Follow the street up to the door.

The rooms are spacious, clean and modern. They are also ensuite.

If you continue walking down the hill 

you will find a small but sufficient market to your left 

and a panaderia to your right.

Tomorrow will take us past Melida, 

where Brierley says you can find very good pulpo.

Pension Palas

When I book my lodging, I always am sure to leave a note
requesting "no parfume, por favor - tengo allergias!"
So far, I've been very lucky.
Almost none of the places were scented.
If it does happen that they are using something toxic for me,
I always have my trusty tent!