Art along The Camino Santiago de Compostela

I've been to the Louvre and to the British Museum.

I've seen the Guggenheim.

I've visited the Vatican Museum, Naples, and Pompeii.

They are, of course, spectacular!

However, some of the sweetest art I've seen anywhere

has been in the tiny churches and wonderful museums 

along the various routes of the Camino Santiago. 

There is treasure to be found each step of The Way!

This will be a photo essay of some of my favorite Camino art. 

I'll do my best to make a note of where it was seen,

in case you'd like to see it in person. 

Grab a chair and a cup of coffee and settle in...

Unless it is on YOUR garage, graffiti can be quite artistic. 

I begin with this carving in the ancient prison door at St. Jean Pied du Port.  

See the name "Breton?" 

Well, my 5th great grandfather had the last name "Breton!" 

I wonder if he spent a night in this cell?

 This graffiti was seen walking through Trinidad de Arre.

It asks, "Who watches in this house?"

Pamplona is worth a day's layover, in my opinion. 

There is a lot to see there, including the Diocese Cathedral Museum. 

On the day I visited, Pilgrims got in GRATIS!

On display are items of Navarrese religious art. There are many images of the Virgin Mary and a large collection of gold and silver articles, with such exceptional pieces as the gothic reliquaries of the Holy Sepulchre and the Lignum Crucis, in the French Gothic style, which belonged to the Crown of Navarre; the reliquary of Santa Espina (15th century); the custody of the Corpus and its shrine, made by silversmiths from Pamplona at the end of the 16th century with rich Eucharistic iconography and parish crosses of great value, such as that of Arazuri. There are also paintings, altarpieces, carvings and other decorative arts.

Address: Catedral de Pamplona (acces via Dormitalería, 3, 31001 Pamplona
Visiting hours: M-F10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Sat: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sun and public holidays: closed.
Summer (July 15th-September 15th): 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., M-F. Saturday: 10 a.m. to 2.30 p.m.
Entrance fees:adults: 4.14 euros; children: 2.45 euros; groups of over 15 people: 3.15 euros; special groups (OAPs and schoolchildren): 2.50 euros; pilgrims: 2.30 euros; youth cardholders: 3.10 euros.

 The church at Obanos has a beautiful retablo, and some very realistic statues of Jesus and the Sorrowful Mother. One thing people may not think about is that when many of these churches were built, the general population did not read. And so the sculpture and paintings in the church were a way for people to learn and remember the Bible stories and doctrine of the Catholic Church. I'm sure some of the art made quite an impression on young and old alike! Most Catholic Churches in the USA are bland by comparison, 
especially since Vatican II.

 At the Church in Puenta la Reina, 
watch for beautiful scroll work.

Before going into the church,
stop for a moment in front of its 13th-century doorway.
Look at the arches.
The first is smooth,
the second is decorated with pilgrims' scallop shells,
and the third displays some interesting figures
like  angels, birds, lions and a harpy, amongst other beasts.  

This church, known as The Church of the Crucifix,
dates back to the end of the 12th century
and was founded  by the Order of the Templars.
After the Order was expelled in 1312,
the military order of St. John of Jerusalem
took charge of their assets in the town in 1443.
Around the middle of the 15th century,
the convent of the Sisters of St. John was built next to the church,
as well as a hospital for caring for pilgrims making their way to Compostela.
The Brotherhood of the Crucifix took over hospital care in 1469,
giving its name to the church.
Having been abandoned for years
during the Desamortizaciones (Disentailments-confiscation of church property)
and the Carlist wars,
the Padres Reparadores (Priests of the Sacred Heart of Jesus)
took charge of it in 1919,
which enabled it to be preserved.

Inside, you will find a crucifix of curious design.
Those of you with some knowledge of Hermetics
might have ideas about its meaning. 

The beautiful Gothic carving, dating from the first half of the 14th century, has been associated with examples of Rhenish work due to its "Y" shape on wood that replicates a tree with the bark left on. You can also see the Italian influence in the exquisite treatment of Christ's facial features and the positioning of his feet. His expression of pain is notable, accentuated by his arms positioned in a very pronounced "V" shape and the strongly dynamic impression of his torso and feet.

The crucifix is attributed to the Templars, thought there is no evidence to confirm this, as the first document that makes reference to this piece dates from 1325 and the Templar Order was expelled in 1312. Local legend tells that the crucifix was donated by some German pilgrims who, on returning from Santiago, wanted to show their thanks for the kind treatment they had received in the pilgrims' hospital in Puente la Reina by donating to the church the cross they had carried on their shoulders during their pilgrimage

The Church of San Roman at Ciraqui is another church with beautifully carved arches. Take a rest here and see what images you can find among the arches.

Keep your eyes open along the road - you never know what you'll see! 

In Lorca, even the fountains were art.

The Iglesia San Pedro in Estella is a wonderful stop. 

There you will see images both Christian and pre-Christian. 

There is a curious statue in the cloister that appears to be Asian. 

Does anyone know the origins?

 

Inside Iglesia de Santa Maria in Viana, 

we were shown many treasures by the local Priest, 

after being invited us to stay for the night.

 We had a lovely family style dinner with other pilgrims, 

slept on comfortable mats on the floor, 

and were awakened by a choir singing outside our window at dawn, 

under the light of a full moon.

Outside Logroño, we came across a festival  

and the tiny chapel had the beautiful Virgen de Cuevas inside.

At Ventosa, the Mother was especially Sorrowful!

 If you look carefully, you find "mouthpullers" hiding about:

In Azofra, the Jesus looked especially sad. 

They also had another life sized Jesus laying in state on a glass-encased bed 

and a dark archway containing some other beautiful sculptures.

The Church at Santo Domingo del Calzada really DID have live chickens inside.

I don't think that qualifies as "art" but it sure was interesting. 

It was forbidden to take photos, but I found this one on the internet.

Redecilla's church had a beautiful stone carved baptismal font. 

Among the huge gold retablo I found these lovely angels. 

I also found this interesting Holy Mother. 

But where is her crown? 

Was it stolen by some hungry pilgrim?

 Passing Tosantos, look to your right 

and you will see the Ermita de la Virgen de la Pena. 

If you are lucky, you will stay at the albergue at Tosantos 

and take part in the tour which is offered. 

No photos of the inside are allowed, 

but I promise you will not be disappointed.

The Church at San Juan de Ortega is worth a visit. 

There you can see the souls in Purgatory begging Mary's help 

and there are dragons on the ceiling! 

Always look up!

I have spent hours visiting the Cathedral at Burgos, 

and it really deserves its own blog, 

but here are a few of the treasures you will see there.

Choir Stall Seat

Always look UP!

 

Which Mary is this?

 

I saw this interesting painting inside the little church at Hornillos. 

Anyone know what it depicts? 

As I often found in towns that had been nearly abandoned, 

the art was being destroyed by the elements. 

A shame, really.

San Anton was a wonderful place. What can I say? Even the bathroom was artful. This church must have been spectacular in its time.

 San Nicholas was stark , but still inviting.

 The Leon Cathedral will take you many hours to explore. 

Too many photos to post of that!

Keep your eyes open when walking through towns and villages. 

There are often interesting sculptures on the streets,

like this pilgrim who seems to basking in the sun, 

resting his feet, 

and reflecting on his journey.

Or maybe he's dreaming

about that lovely Pilgrim's Plate

he had for supper.

 In Villar de Mazariffe you will find Albergue El Refugio de Jesus. 

The owner allows pilgrims to decorate the wall there, 

and it certainly is interesting! 

There is even "art" out in the yard!

 

 Astorga boasts both a Cathedral and the famous Gaudi Palace. 

Be sure to take time to visit both!

Astorga also has a wonderful museum of history.

 I found this interesting St. James at Rabanal's albergue.

This colorful door was somewhere between Molinaseca and Cacabellos. 

Anyone remember it?

And then there were the GIGANTES!

This Christ Statue at Vilafranco del Bierzo made me want to cry.

And this giant at Vega de Valcarce made me LAUGH!

At Ponferrada, you can visit a the castle!

And soon, you reach Santiago, where there is the Cathedral.

The art there leaves an impression,

especially the Botafumeiro.

It is a sight to behold!

I'll save that for you to see in person.

Well, I hope this blog will encourage you to walk a bit slower.

Take your time.

Don't be afraid to take little side trips

into unexpected places along the Way.  

And while you're seeking treasure along the Camino,

don't forget to look 

into the kind eyes of those who serve you,

 into the weary but happy eyes of your fellow Peregrinos,

 and into your own eyes 

when you pass a mirror.

That is where you will see

the greatest beauty of all!

Live is so good!

Savor each moment!

Buen Camino!

Annie

* * *

Note:  If you would love to walk the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

All about Tapas and Pinchos

Future pilgrims often ask me, "What do you eat while on pilgrimage?"  Well, the answer for me is, "Anything they serve in Spain!"  The food there is SO good, so tasty, so healthy, I'm amazed that I lost 20 pounds on my last Camino.

Tomorrow I'll post about finding breakfast and the Pilgrim's Plate. But today, I'd like to tell you a little about what I have learned about another wonderful option... TAPAS!

Even the smallest villages often have a bar and a "bar" in Spain is not the same place you think of when you say "bar" in the USA. Yes, you can buy beer, wine, and mixed drinks. But you also can get coffee, breakfast, and some pretty good eats there!

It is said the tapa originated in Andalusia as a small snack to accompany sherry. The bartender would cover the glass of sherry with a saucer (or tapa) to protect it from the flies. A good bartender would decorate the plate with a tiny savory snack, and that evolved into these luscious portions we now call tapas.

  TAPA vs. RACIÓN

Something to remember is a tapa serves one. Tapas are often called "pinchos" in southern Spain. A "ración" is a larger serving, usually for 2 to 3 people, or one hungry pilgrim! I've taken these photos from the internet. Some would be considered a "tapa" but the larger portions are definitely "raciónes."  You quickly learn the difference after ordering a time or two.

In some small villages along the Camino, tapas are still free with your drink. Sometimes I was served a plate of olives and other times salted almonds or a bit of meat. Most of the time, however, there was a menu, often written on a chalkboard, and you paid a small amount for your tapas. My advice to you is to try any tapa you see offered - take a walk on the wild side and stretch your boundaries. You are, after all, on an adventure!

But if you would like to at least have some idea of what you will be eating, following is a menu of typical tapas you might see on the Camino Santiago.

ALBONDIGAS are little meatballs. This dish is said to have originated with the Moors. Hearty and filling, they come on a plate of 3 as tapas and 7 to 9 if you order a ración.  They are made of minced pork and veal or beef. They are fried, and served either dry or swimming in a savory tomato sauce.

PATATAS BRAVAS are chunks of fried potatoes coated in a thick sauce. The sauce generally is a spicy tomato sauce but it does vary from place to place, which is why it's one of my favorites. I've seen white sauce like the one above on the potatoes. Don't pass this one by!

GAMBAS A LA PLANCHA are grilled whole shrimp. They are seasoned before grilling and very good. You just peel them and eat them with your fingers. A tapa usually has 3 shrimp. A pincho will have more.

JAMÓN SERRANO is salt-cured ham dried in the mountain air. It is considered a national treasure and in each bar you will see these whole hams hanging.

This ham deserves its own blog, it is so famous. The pigs are fed on sweet mountain acorns, making the meat very sweet and the flavor is deeper than prosciutto. The ham is shaved off in thin slices. It almost always comes with chunks of fresh baked bread. But you also may see it served on top of melon slices or in other combinations.

We saw many pigs on the Via de la Plata, their red eyes shining in the early morning darkness, their grunts startling me!

BANDERILLAS are bits and pieces of meat, vegetable, and/or fruit served threaded on toothpicks. They could consist of marinated fish, hard-boiled eggs, shrimp, olives, or just about anything!  They are sometimes served with bread or crackers. They are to be eaten in one bite, blending the flavors. A banderilla is the sharp barbed stick used to weaken the bull in bullfighting.

CALAMARES FRITOS. These are rings of squid, very lightly breaded or simply dusted with flour and deep fried. They come piled on a plate garnished with a lemon slice. Squeeze the lemon juice onto the fritos before eating. I can make a meal of these!

QUESO MANCHEGO is tangy sheep's cheese. It comes from LaMancha and is one of Spain's most popular cheese. You can buy it all along the Camino by weight and it's good in a backpack for a couple of days if you bury it in your clothing to keep it cool. It is a staple food item when I'm walking. It is served in cubes or slices with bread in the bars. It is often served in combination with jamón serrano or other meat.  Don't miss trying it! If you live near a COSTCO, they sell manchego cheese! I have a hunk in my fridge right now!

ACEITUNAS DE LA MADRILEÑA are served everywhere. Aceitunas are olives. They can be served alone or "de la Madrileña" which means in a nice vinegar/scallion/garlic marinade. I bought bags of aceitunas for under a Euro to carry in my mochila on the Camino.

MEJILLONES A LA MARINERA. These are mussels cooked in a lovely garlicky wine sauce. They may be served in the shell, on the half-shell, or shelled in a bowl of sauce. Usually served with crusty bread to soak up the sauce, eat them with a toothpick.

ENSALADILLA RUSA is a cold potato salad that can contain any combination of tuna, shrimp, potatoes, carrots, peas, peppers, or eggs. The dressing is usually mayonnaise or a home made garlic mayo.

 

CROQUETAS are a tapa you will find everywhere. The ingredients are greatly varied. The croqueta could be of fish, potato, ham, just about anything. They're little balls of food, which have been rolled in a coating and deep fried. They are always very good and filling!

SALPICÓN DE MARISCOS is a cold seafood salad. Ingredients can vary but it is almost marinated in a vinaigrette.

BOQUERONES are one of my favorites! They are tiny marinated white anchovies. Nothing like what you buy in the can, please be sure to try them! They are not "fishy" because they are fresh! Great on a slice of bread! They may come whole or filleted. Sometimes you find boquerones deep fried.

POLLO AL AJILLO is a tapa of small pieces of browned chicken, simmered in a garlic sauce. The sauce can vary. It may or may not have tomato, but no matter...it will be wonderful! Eat it with crusty bread.

TORTILLA. This is not your Mexican tortilla. This is more like a fritata or thick omelette, served in wedges or squares, alone or with ham. It has potato, onion, and sometimes other vegetables. But generally it's pretty straight forward. I love this for breakfast but it's good any time.

FRITURA DE PESCADO is a plate of fried fish and other seafood. It's a bit like tempura.

ENSALADA DE PIMIENTOS ROJOS is a wonderful salad of roasted red peppers and onions. The salad has an olive oil and vinegar dressing. Very rich. As with most tapas, it is great with crusty bread. I bought roasted peppers and put them on sandwiches for my lunch when walking the Camino.

CHORIZO is a garlicky sausage, nothing like the chorizo of Mexico. Made from acorn fed pigs, it literally melts in your mouth!  It is served in many ways. It might be simply slice don a place, as shown above, or you might get it on a slice of bread, as shown in this photo from a Sevilla tapa bar:

You also might get it in a tiny bowl with sauce, as this photo shows:

It can be served cold or hot.  No matter how it is served, try it! You can't lose!

CARACOLES are one of my very most favorite tapas. These are the same tiny snails you see crawling all over the vegetation on the Camino. Stewed in a savory garlic sauce, they are an amazing treat with a cold beer - instant energy! Eat them with your fingers by pulling them out of the shell with a toothpick.

MORCILLA is a savory pork blood sausage. It can be seasoned in a variety of ways. I like some. I don't like others. My advice is to just try it every chance you get. I can hear you saying, "Eeeewwww... sausage made of blood!"  But before you do, think about those luscious, flavor filled bits and pieces you scrape up from the pan when you're cooking pork chops? THAT is pork blood and is what morcilla can taste like. It can be incredibly good! It can be served in slices, but is usually laid on a slice of bread and topped with potato or some other item.

OREJAS DE CERDO are just what they sound like; pig's ears. They are either deep fried or cooked in a savory sauce. Not for the weak-kneed, you might be surprised at their goodness!

To me, these are an excellent example of the way that the Spanish people live the philosophy I love! They respect the animal they are killing and eating by not wasting one single piece! It's the way our grandparents lived, before we got so spoiled with our plastic filled meat cases here in the United States. I have met many people who, believe it or not, have no idea what animal they are eating and never think about how it was raised or butchered.

In Spain, people still live close to the earth and respect her.
That is one reason I'm so in love with that country!


So that's it! These are some of my favorite tapas! As you can see, there are many choices for a hungry pilgrim in Spain. A supper of tapas can be a great option when you're on a budget.

If you have a favorite tapa that I did not mention, please comment. I'll look for a photo and post it.

Buen Camino, Pilgrims, and Buen Aprevecho!

Love,
Annie

Note:  If you would love to walk the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

A Grape Harvest Festival in Azofra Spain

On a dusty and hot September day,

a group of weary pilgrims

strolled into the tiny village of Azofra 

to a curious sight.

People were carrying their kitchen tables

out of their houses and into the streets!

There was an unmistakable air of expectation.

Something was about to happen!

We checked into the refugio

and asked another pilgrim,

"What is going on?"

She didn't know.

Leaving our mochilas on our bed (we used to do that),

we went out into the village and began looking around.

There were big jugs of wine,

cooling in the local fountain.

Old men were hanging around in small, intimate groups,

chattering away about farming matters.

The women seemed to be missing in action.

A band of young men waited in the square, 

instruments in hand.

Wandering through the village,

we followed our nose to an empty lot

where a man was cooking giant pans of paella

over an open fire.

In another lot,

women were cooking pots of lamb stew.

The fragrance was unbelievable!

My mouth began to water.

Walking 26 kilometers gives a pilgrim a great hunger!

How could we swing a seat at one of these tables?

Soon, I realized many people in the village

were wearing a bright orange handkerchief around their necks.

What significance did this have?

I asked a local,

who explained that you must go to the building in the square

and pay 8 Euro for your dinner.

As a receipt,

they'd give you the handkerchief.

AWESOME!

We got into line,

got our handkerchiefs,

and hurried back to the refugio.

Together, a group of us dragged our kitchen table

out into the street to join the others

then rushed back inside to gather up

plates, silverware, and glasses.

We returned just in time!

Here came a couple of ladies with a wheelbarrow -

and inside the wheelbarrow was a gigantic pan of PAELLA!

Each person was given a generous scoop!

This group of pilgrims usurped someone else's personal table.

A frustrated lady tried to explain that the tables belonged to her family,

but the pilgrims just smiled and nodded!

They felt SO HAPPY to be a part of the festival!

The poor lady finally gave up 

and had another table brought out

for her family!

After the paella,
out came a wheelbarrow with lamb stew.

Then bread.

Then wine..

and more wine..

and more wine...

We were one happy group of Pilgrims!

When we thought we were so full

we couldn't eat another bite,

out came the desserts!

Beautiful!

All you could eat!

Dessert was followed by more wine.

Then they handed out cigars to the men,

and cigarettes to the women.

And of course.. more WINE!

And then...

the band began to play!

The music was traditional folk music

of the region.

Oom-pah sort of music,

some might call it old fashioned,

but it was wonderful

and made us all feel light-hearted

(or it could have been the wine?)

As soon as the music began,

an older woman grabbed a broom,

and began to dance,

pumping the broom up and down in the air.

All the women of village got up to follow her -

They had obviously done this before! 

Then up jumped the men.

Soon, all the women were on one end,

and the men were on another,

and there was a sort of "chase" dance going on.

The women would pretend to nag the men,

and chase them into their corner,

then turn and run away,

the men chasing the them back 

to THEIR corner.

As they chased, they sang a song.

The words were in Spanish,

and I didn't understand them,

but the meaning of the dance

was clear enough!

The men couldn't win,

because the lady with the broom 

would shoo them away,

hitting them on the behind and head!

There was a lot of laughing,

a few risque comments,

and a good time to be had by all!

 We drank and danced,

 and drank and talked,

 and drank and toasted,

Edeltraut, Enrique, Joe, I, and our other fellow pilgrims,

drank, 

danced, 

and celebrated

 until we couldn't drink or dance another step!

And then, at midnight, 

the church bell began to ring.

As if by magic,

the music stopped.

People picked up their tables,

and quickly cleaned up the trash.

By the time the bell tolled 12,

the square was quiet and dark,

and empty.

It was if nothing had happened there.

We weary pilgrims picked up our table 

and wove back to our refugio,

satiated and happy under the Camino stars!

We slept well, 

Santiago protecting our sleeping place.

And at dawn,

we arose to coffee and bread,

still giddy from the night before.

I blessed the town as I walked away,

for it's sweet acceptance and hospitality.

It was just another Camino miracle,

to get so drunk on new wine

and awaken completely refreshed.

Thank you, Azofra,

for a wonderful memory!

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino