Camino Tips: Check the Free Box 2018

One of the best Camino Tips I can give you is this one:

Check the Free Box!

Almost every albergue has a Free Box. 

The Free Box is a box that contains items 

pilgrims dump when they realize 

bringing everything from home except the kitchen sink 

wasn't such a great idea. 

Sometimes it is a cardboard box out for everyone to see. 

Sometimes it is a shelf on the wall. 

Sometimes it is hidden in a closet behind lock and key. 

If you don't see it and you need something, 

ask!

Why do people dump things in the Free Box, you ask?

Pretend you've begun walking 

and your pack is heavier and heavier as the days go by.  

You begin to take items out and look at them and say, 

"Do I really NEED this?"  

(This is all part of being a pilgrim, so don't feel guilty).  

You make a pile of things that really, 

you can live without.  

You realize that you really didn't need to bring 

that heavy novel or that can opener, 

or the blow up mattress or the 3 fleece shirts, 

or the extra socks, 

or the 12 pair of underwear.

What do you do with this "stuff?"  

You could mail it home, 

but that would probably cost more than it's worth.

You could throw it in the trash... 

but please don't.

Instead, ask the hospitalera to put it in the Free Box. 

Someone will surely come along who needs it, 

and this is one way

"The Camino Provides."

It's always a good thing to check the Free Box 

as you walk along the Camino, also. 

You may find things you didn't know you needed!

Things I've picked up from the Free Box include the following:

A hydration system - complete with tubing and bite valve found on the road

A nice featherweight fleece shirt

A sports bra - mine broke!

A pajama top - used for sun protection

A handkerchief - used for peeing along the trail then washed with the day's laundry

A microfiber towel - I thought I'd like it better than my old worn out terrycloth-towel, but I didn't

A guide to albergues along the way - complete with notes!

Some German Dr. Scholl's type foot cream that saved my feet on the Aragones Route

Things I've left in the Free Box include:

My sleeping pad - I saw more of these than any other item in the box

A jacket - too heavy to carry

A pair of wool socks

A rain hat

A cheap poncho

Other items I can't recall - seems I was dropping weight daily!

Oh yes, my guide to the Via de la Plata which I'd sure love to have back if someone found it. It was specially spiral bound and left at the Convent in Leon!

Zip off trousers  

Things I've SEEN in the Free Box are too many to mention, 

including sleeping bags, pads, knives, stoves, 

camping dishes, tents, boots, all types of clothing, 

and on and on and on...

So... when you are doing your last minute check 

of the gear you're going to take... 

and you run across an item 

and are not sure if you need it or not... 

ask yourself this question:

Am I willing to spend the $$ it will take to mail this home?

Or will it end up in a Free Box!?

Then walk away and leave it ...

If you need it, you can be sure it will show up again along the Way.

Learn to live and step lightly on the earth!

Buen Camino!

* * *

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

A Pilgrim Has Died on the Camino

Photo by Sylvia Nilsen

While walking the Camino, you will on occasion pass a memorial or marker indicating a place where a pilgrim has lost his or her life. The feeling for me is a combination of sadness, curiosity and respect.

I feel sad for the family because maybe this made their terrible fear come true, fear that the Camino is not safe, that their loved one would come to harm. I feel sad that the pilgrim did not finish the journey. I wonder what their last thoughts were? I am curious about the details. How did they die? Was it a heart attack? A stroke? Were they alone or with friends? How old was this person? And then those feelings turn to a deep respect that this pilgrim died while doing something that was more important to them than the fear of death. . . that their love for this pilgrimage made their death meaningful. Wouldn't we all like to die doing something we love? I know I would.

And so, these were the same feelings I had when I heard about the 42 year old man whose body was found on the Camino this week between St. Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles. From what I've heard in the forums, he was within sight of refuge.  Here is the latest report, posted by Navarricano, who lives in Pamplona. This is a quick translation of the article which appeared in the Saturday edition of the Diario de Navarra:
 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

A Brazilian pilgrim was found dead in a small gorge near Mt. Ortzanzurieta (Roncesvalles). The body was discovered by the forest ranger responsible for the area. The place in which the body of the pilgrim was found indicates that he had lost his way, and that he had suffered a fall. His backpack was found some 70 meters above the spot where his body lay.

He was apparently traveling alone, and until Friday nobody sounded the alarm that he was missing. For this reason, despite the fact that all of his personal identity papers were found in his backpack, an autopsy is required to confirm that the information contained in the documents correspond to those of the body that was recovered. Until the autopsy is complete, the deceased appears to be G.C.J., a resident in Canada. The location of the body suggests that the pilgrim died several days ago and the body only discovered once the snow had begun to melt.

The ranger had gone to inspect the area following the thaw. The body was discovered a little before 11.00 a.m. He alerted SOS Navarra, who in turn alerted the Burguete fire department, a medical team, the Guardia Civil and a helicopter rescue squad.

Three firefighters set out from Burguete. A fourth firefighter set out from Valcarlos, where he was serving as a replacement during the winter. The former left their vehicle parked at the albergue in Roncesvalles, from where the path that leads to the gorge starts. From there they had to continue on foot. Equipped with skis and snowshoes to walk on the snow, they also carried with them the equipment normally required to respond to these types of emergencies: a stretcher, a backpack with a first-aid kit, and another with clothing.

Following the ranger's indications, the firefighters began their trek. The going was initially over flat terrain, but soon became an uphill climb. Access to the area where the body lay was complicated due not only to the snow, but also because as they drew nearer to the gorge, the path was slicked with deep mud and wet leaves that made their path even more slippery. The helicopter crew followed their progress from the air as they made their ascent.

Following an hours' trek, the firefighters reached the forest ranger and the body of the pilgrim, resting face down in the gorge. At this point the Guardia Civil verified the pilgrim's death and ordered the corpse be removed from the area. The body was carried to an area where it could be tied to the stretcher and lifted to the helicopter, which transported it to the Navarran Institute of Forensic Medicine.

The Guardia Civil is in charge of the proceedings. Following the autopsy and the confirmation of the victim's identity, the Canadian consulate will be contacted in order to initiate the victim's repatriation to Canada.

It is clear from the small map that appeared in the article showing where the body was discovered that the pilgrim, upon reaching the Lepoeder hill, became disoriented. Everything was covered in snow, he could not follow the markings easily, and he headed off in the wrong direction as a result, ending up on a very dangerous cliff, where he slipped and fell into the gorge.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Those of us who have walked this route know this area. It is steep and slippery any time of year, can be treacherous in the rain, and apparently deadly in the snow.

This is a reminder, people.

If you are planning a winter Camino, please pay attention to the advice from the local people, the hospitaleros, and the staff in St. Jean Pied de Port. These people understand the weather of their region, which can quickly change from sunshine to severe.  If they tell you to take the lower route along the road, please listen!

I'm not suggesting this poor man did not heed advice; perhaps nobody told him the dangers of crossing this upper route during winter. But the snow is extremely deep this year. The trail markers are not tall enough to be seen, and it can be very foggy in addition. This leads to a chance of becoming disoriented and stepping off onto what you believe is firm ground, but is in fact a snowbank hiding a cliff, which appears to be what happened here.

This was a young, healthy man.
I'm sad for his family.

Buen Camino, Peregrino.
May you rest in peace.

Photo by Iasramblings

Getting from Madrid to Pamplona

Here is some information for those of you flying into Madrid, and wanting to meet our group in Pamplona.  

From the Madrid airport, you can catch a city bus to the Avenida de Americas bus terminal, get off the bus, go upstairs and purchase bus tickets at the kiosk. It's under two euros to get to the bus terminal and they have free wifi on the bus!

If you are going to meet us in SJPP, you can check to see if the new shuttle is running from Pamplona to SJPdP....it's a new shuttle bus they started running last year during busy season. It's cheaper than a taxi.

If you are trying to purchase train tickets and having problems, this is because you can only buy tickets online two months in advance for any Spanish train.   If you purchase the tickets when they first become available, you can save well over half of the regular price. For every train, there is a limited number of "web fares" (cheapest) and "estrella fares" (next cheapest).

One experienced pilgrim, Laurie, says tickets on the RENFE website is hit or miss. One thing you definitely want to do is call your credit card company before you try to book them, and that might eliminate the problems that many people have. She says many people  go all the way through the complicated site, make their reservations, only to find that the payment isn't accepted.

As of 2012, ticket brokers can now sell the cheap tickets themselves, but only within the two month window. So Raileurope,  Petrobax, and others will sell you the same cheap fares with their service fee (about $8 US). Or you can try it yourself on the RENFE site and save the service fee.

Yet another alternative is to buy the tickets when you arrive in Spain. If you're over 65 (or is it 60?), you can then buy a special card that allows you a discount off the fare.  For ALSA and Renfe you are a senior citizen at 60.

There is a Tarjeta Dorada" (Golden Card) offered in Spain. This provides discounts to those over 60.  It costs 5.05 euros, and is available in RENFE train stations, RENFE ticket offices, and travel. It's valid for one year.  The discounts are taken off the regular ticket price (not the web specials) and are as follows:

For the AVE (high speed). Monday, Tuesday, Wed., Thurs., 40% discount with advance purchase. Friday, Sat., Sunday, and all days without advance purchase, 25%.

For the AVANT (next fastest). 25% discount M-F; 40% discount Sat-Sun (I know this is the opposite of the discounts for the AVE, but I'm just reporting what the RENFE website says).

For the regular trains: 40% discount all the time

Cercanias: 40% discount all the time

If you can get the online web fares two months out, they are even cheaper, but if not, or if you plan on  purchasing tickets while in the country, the Tarjeta Dorada may be the way to go. 

I'll post updated information as I find it.

Thanks Laurie!

Annie

 

See my website at 

Anniewalkers Camino

for more information about
Guided Walks on the Pilgrimage Trails of Europe
and
Walking the Camino Santiago

Just "Be!"

It's important that you walk YOUR Camino,

so my suggestions are only that... suggestions.

That said, I encourage you not to make it a race for a bed.

Go slow and enjoy the beauty all around you.

This is an opportunity of a lifetime!

Many people find the Camino gives them the chance to lighten their load

by experiencing how very little in the way of possessions

it takes to bring happiness;

to think through their problems without distraction,

and to make life-changing decisions with a clear head. 

Try taking the earphones out of your ears.

Listen instead to the music of nature and of the Camino.

Talk to any pilgrim and they'll describe the feelings they experience

when they hear cow bells, church bells, or vespers.  

Have you ever actually listened to the wind whispering in the leaves above your head?

Have you heard the drumming sound your feet make when they hit the earth?

Have you heard the song of the meadowlark

or the gurgling of the water rushing through the mill.

Why is that crow squawking?

What is that hawk hunting?

There are studies that suggest the sounds of nature

help balance your body and make you healthier.

Have you read any of the books by Dr. Emoto (Messages from Water)

who shows with amazing photographs of water crystals

how vibration greatly influences the cells of our bodies?

Fascinating!

Without distraction, you can use your sense of SMELL also.

Can you close your eyes and conjure up the fragrance of the pine forest?

Do you know the smell of the heat rising from a dirt trail?

Do you recognize the scent of water?

Or better yet, can you SMELL that coffee up ahead

and follow your nose to the cafe?

These senses we no longer use were important to our ancestors,

and literally made a difference between life and death.

Can you recognize the feeling of the hackles on the back of your neck rising,

sensing danger,

telling you to STOP RIGHT NOW!?  

The Camino gives you the opportunity to reconnect

with all these gut instincts we've allowed to atrophy,

replaced by modern convenience.

But by losing those instincts, we've lost a bit of our humanity.

Take this opportunity to re-find yourself.

Open your eyes. Really SEE the beauty around you.

Look for the storks nesting on top of every high building.

Stop and admire the rolling landscape filled with vineyards and red earth.

Notice how old the buildings are!

When was the last time you saw a building that dated from 1510

standing strong in your neighborhood?

Investigate the village churches as well as the spectacular cathedrals.

Seek out the nuances in dark corners, sculptured ceilings, stain glass windows.

Look closely at the faces of your fellow pilgrims.

Are they happy?  Smiling? Ask them why! Then LISTEN.

Are they troubled?

Can you offer help?

It's possible without being instrusive.

Buy them a drink?

Offer them an orange or a pastry?

Give encouragement?

 

Pay attention to your own body.

Is the shoulder strap of your backpack too tight on the right?

Stop and fix it.

Do you feel a hot spot on your heel?

Stop and cover it with Compeed.

Do you feel sleepy?

Find a tree and take a siesta!

There's no time clock to punch!

The time of day doesn't matter.

Who cares if other walkers pass you!

Everybody will get where they're going.

You are right where you are supposed to be...

standing right there on that patch of dirt.

What a feeling of freedom!

Take a break from modern living.

Go to bed when it gets dark and rise with the sun.

Bundle up and watch the sunrise over a cup of coffee or tea.

There is no man-made art that compares

with the dawn sky on a summer morning.

 

I love the peace of early rising.

There is no traffic noise, no hustling or bustling,

no voices, no honking horns, no televisions blaring. 

I get my best work done between the hours of 4 am and 8 am.

When you get into the routine of nature,

you may be surprised to find yourself feeling so much better,

you may never go back to artificial light and late night t.v.

So...

Walk your own Camino,

but consider doing it in a new way.

Lighten your load,

pay attention to your senses,

and... just... BE!

Buen Camino!

See my AnnieWalkersCamino website at 

Anniewalkers Camino

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe

The Aragones Route - Sta Celia to Arres

Note: Remember, I did not have my camera

so photos have been borrowed from the internet.

I've tried to give credit when I know the photographer's name.

* * *

13 October 2009

What a beautiful morning!

The little white lambs were still in the pasture below my balcony window,

the sun was shining,

and the pilgrims were up and rustling around.

I got up, got dressed, and packed my mochila. 

I was in a really happy mood, having gotten a great night's sleep!

The earplugs weren't needed last night

because I only had one room mate. 

The French couple, whose names were Michele and Michael,

slept in a room by themselves,

the German boy slept in the men's dorm,

and my only roommate was a young woman who did not snore!

I took advantage of the kitchen facilities and made myself a cup of Nescafé.

I've mentioned these packets before,

and they are very handy to carry on the Camino.

You can find them in almost any market

and they taste almost (almost) as good as the real thing. 

Buy Nescafe in convenient tubes in the markets in Spain

I had been told there would be no place open for coffee this morning,

so I sat and enjoyed my coffee as I looked at the map

and decided my next stop would be Arres.

By the time last night I realized the only tienda in town was at the bar,

it was too late to go buy breakfast food,

so I began my walk without eating.

By the time I had walked an hour,

my stomach was complaining and I began to wish for food.

A fig tree?

An apple tree?

A bar where I could get breakfast?

But all I could see ahead was trail,

so I put one foot in front of the other and dreamed of food. 

I remembered a piece of bread and cheese in my pack,

but knew I needed to save that for my lunch.

Less than 20 minutes later, I looked down and

there in the center of the trail were two perfect apples!

They were just sitting there, side by side,

as if they had been left just for me! 

I looked all around.
No apple trees to be seen.
Somebody had left these for a hungry pilgrim.
I laughed and picked them up.

I bit into one and it was ice cold, sweet, and crunchy.

Wow!  That is the magic of the Camino again! 

I ate one apple and saved the second for later.

The terrain was flat and easy

and before I knew it, several hours had passed.

Now I was nearing the Puente de la Reina de Jaca.

Here are some photos of the scenery.

 As you come to the bridge, a road shoots off to the right

if you want to go through this town. 

I decided to bypass it and continue on straight. 

At the crossroads was a picnic area. 

I decided to take advantage of the picnic table and have my lunch.  

I made a cheese sandwich and as I ate, 

I could hear the river rushing past me. 

I began singing, 

"The river is flowing,

flowing and growing,

the river is flowing,

back to the sea..."

Suddenly, out of the bushes came the most beautiful kitten!

He was a grey and brown cat, like a Himalayan.

He was just ethereal!

I couldn't believe this little guy was out here living on his own, he was so young.

There were no houses close by, just a road and forest and a river.

He looked at me with his icy blue eyes and said,

"Meow?"

I laughed and shared my queso with him.

He purred and rubbed up against my legs,

asking to be petted.

I fed him more cheese.

He was very happy, and when I packed up, he began following me.

I hoped he would follow me all the way to the albergue 

so he could be adopted by someone who would care for him, 

but about 20 minutes up the road, 

a car passed and frightened him. 

He scampered back into the forest 

and nothing I could do would bring him out.

I hope he lived.

I suspect he did... 

he had, afterall, survived thus far.

I walked until the I saw a sign and a dirt track. 

This section was a short but rough climb up and around a hillside.

The trail went up and around,

up and around,

up and around.

And then...

Arres by Nomadicvignette

there it was, 

the jewel called Arres!

 

by LMGV

Arres by Holzhammer

Arres Albergue

It looked like something out of a storybook, 

the little stone houses

sitting on the tip-top of a hill.

I kept wondering

where they kept the dragon?

As I arrived at the Arres albergue, 

I was surprised to see Loretta,

my little Italian companion from Jaca. 

She had been there since yesterday. 

Her poor face was wrapped in bandages.

She apparently had done a face-plant on her trek yesterday. 

She had two black eyes, 

a big gash on her head, 

and was still feeling very dizzy.  

It seemed to me her spirit was hurt the most, 

despite the physical injuries, 

and I felt worried for her. 

Would she continue on? 

I asked her.

She had not yet decided.

This Albergue was donativo.
I had no cash left, so 

I got settled in, and went off to find a beer, a snack, and some change. 

There is a hotel here with a bar. 

I had a cerveza con limón and chatted with the bartender.

Soon, it was time to go back to the albergue.

We were to help the hospitalero prepare dinner for the pilgrims.

I got a quick shower.

Hot Water! Hooray!

Then did my laundry and hung it out.

There would be ensalada, pollo, and sopa de verduras

with chunks of fresh bread and butter.

Everyone helped prepare the dinner and

everyone ate their fill!

Pilgrims arriving tomorrow would eat 

well or not, according to the amount of donation we left.

I always try to remember this and I left a generous donation.

Chimenea by Rosa Lob

 We took a short break from cleanup when

the local priest dropped in

and took us for a tour of the church.

As usual, there are some wonderful treasures to be found

in the little village churches along 

most of the Camino routes.

This was no different, and I really enjoyed the tour.

By this time, there were maybe 7 pilgrims who had arrived from Jaca

including an entire troop of boyscouts!

The albergue beds had been taken.

Where would they all sleep?

Photo by Jacko the Whacko

 No problem!

There were mattresses stuffed in nooks and crannies,

in the rafters of the building, 

and in the sitting room.

These were dragged out and everyone had a bed for the night.

It really was a lovely place to stay,

and I hope to return sometime.

I slept soundly in the silence of this medieval-looking hilltop town.

There were no city lights,

nor automobile sounds to disturb my rest,

and a velvet sky full of stars

twinkled at me through the open window.

The Aragones Route - Jaca to Santa Celia

Photo by David Foster

Loretta and I had decided to at least begin our walk together. 

When you are walking the Camino on any route, 

there is an unspoken rule that each person must walk their own Camino. 

What this means is you might walk with a group, 

or you might walk alone. 

You might start with a walking partner, 

but one of you may want to go faster or slower, 

and it's okay to do this at your own speed. 

One of the most fun things of all is getting to an albergue 

and running into "old friends" that you left on the trail 2 weeks ago.

Or meeting people in Santiago that you walked with 40 days earlier.

So, with this understanding in mind, 

we began our walk together. 

We knew we would eventually part company, 

because I planned on walking to the famous 

Monastery of San Juan de la Peña in this first stage.

I had asked at the Jaca albergue 

what the trail was like up to the Monastery, 

and was told, "It's just a short walk." 

I should have known better.

The kilometers in Spain have a tendency 

to grow longer as you walk.

However, I decided I would go and see the Monastery, 

and then walk from there down into Santa Celia.

Loretta and I set out walking about 7 a.m. 

After about 30 minutes, we found an open bar 

and had coffee and sweet bread.  

There were only two other pilgrims there, 

so we figured the walking would be mostly solitary. 

We strolled through town, past the beautiful park blocks, 

and then came to a place where the signage was not clear.

In Spain, this route is waymarked by yellow arrows 

but also with red and white bars as GR 65.3,

part of the Spanish network of Senderos de Gran Recorrido.

Here are some of the marks you might find:

In France, this route is called the Arles Route,

and is mostly a single route.  

However, once you reach Aragón and Navarra there are variants, 

mainly to famous monasteries. 

So here we stood, an hour into the day's walk, 

already stumped.

We stood pondering and discussing for a moment 

and a truck of workers stopped near us.

I asked them, "which way to the Camino?"  

They pointed one direction, but Lorette insisted they were wrong.  

I decided to follow my gut and the advice of the locals,

and Loretta and I parted company. 

She went one direction, and I went the other.

After a while, I saw the sign indicating the cut-off trail to the Monastery. 

I turned off to the left and walked through an empty field, 

following the signs to the base of a rough-looking trail. 

I walked through an area that looked like a dump,

past an abandoned car,

and finally saw another trail sign.

It looked like the trail had been washed out. 

But I had heard this trek had been done by others,

so I worked my way up the rocky gully.

It was very difficult climbing, 

sometimes on my hands and knees. 

In some places, the steep trail was completely washed out.

I am not in bad shape, but I'm not an athlete, 

and there were times I just had to stop and catch my breath.  

I thought, "I sure hope this Monastery is worth the effort!."

The following photo is NOT of the trail I walked, 

but is an excellent example of how it looked:

Near what I thought was the top of the trail, 

the stark red mud began to sprout vegetation 

and I worked myself into a small forested area. 

All of a sudden, around the corner came a man carrying a basket,

just like Little Red Riding Hood. 

Was this the wolf?

 Turned out to be a gentleman mushrooming. 

He had a basket full of mushrooms 

and when I asked him how far to the Monastery, 

he pointed up the trail and said,

"not so far... just keep going."

Ok...so I "kept going" and after a bit, 

the trail widened out and I was at the top of a mountain

looking into a beautifully lush farmland valley. 

I thought, "Thank God, I made it!"

I walked and walked and finally reached the village

which wasn't really a town at all, 

but a group of private houses.  

I soon realized that this was not my destination. 

There were no shops, no bars... just houses and a church.

I passed through this village, 

then finally saw a sign pointing up another road saying simply,

"Monastery."

I kept walking.  

I walked, and walked. 

Eventually I was in an area with hills on each side of the road. 

Suddenly the silence was broken by gunshots. 

BIG gunshots!

I thought, "Holy crap! Is somebody shooting at me?" 

Then ahead I saw a parked car. 

When I got closer, I saw the car was being guarded by two pit bulls. 

Oh great. 

Here are the dogs I keep hearing about,

but not on the Camino Frances!  

On the car was a sign saying:

Peligro!

No Pasar!

Batida de Caza!

which basically means

 

DANGER!

DO NOT PASS!

HUNTING Area!

Yikes! 

What the heck?  

They are shooting shotguns along the Camino?

I sat down and took a break, 

wondering what in the heck to do.

I was just too tired to go back to the main road.

I'd been walking over 3 hours up this trail. 

I could only pray,

"Please let them finish hunting or send a car or a taxi. 

I need help!"

I decided to keep walking. 

The Monastery couldn't be too much further.

Taking wide berth around the pit bulls,

and ducking every time I heard a shotgun,

I continued on my way.  

Soon, two people appeared on the trail.

They told me not to worry. 

They said it was safe to walk, 

that the men were hunting up in the hills, 

not near the trail. 

They said the Monastery was only 2 kilometers further.

So I continued to walk. 

I walked, and I walked. 

Two more hours. 

What I KNOW was much further than 2 kilometers.

Now I was in a moonscape of what appeared to be

an old riverbed full of giant boulders. 

The traveling was difficult. 

The trail was washed out in many places 

and I had to scramble on my hands over rocks 

and down steep embankments.

I heard the church bell in the valley striking 12 

and I knew I had now been walking for 5 hours. 

And it wasn't easy walking - it was hard climbing and rock scrambling

all the time carrying a backpack. 

I was tired.

I was hungry.

I was out of water.

I climbed over a motorbike

that had gotten stuck in the rocks 

and had been abandoned.  

Apparently, young people like to rock scramble on their motorcycles

in this area, so be aware. 

I started up another embankment 

and two people came toward me out of the brush.

I said hello. 

They responded in French. 

My French isn't great, so I asked in Spanish,

"How far is it to the Monastery?"

They replied, "1.5 to 2 hours."

TWO MORE HOURS????

My heart sunk. 

There is no way I could walk two more hours in these conditions 

and then still walk the kilometers to Santa Celia from the Monastery!

(Well, I COULD, I just didn't WANT to!)

There is no place to sleep at the Monastery. 

I do not have my tent - 

I left it in Santiago at the Travel Center. 

What in the world would I do now?

This was a difficult moment for me.

Emotionally and physically, I was drained. 

If I had KNOWN before I set out how hard this walk was going to be, 

I could have either mentally and prepared myself with food and water

or taken another route. 

Maybe I would have hired a taxi to take me to the Monastery. 

Maybe I would have kept my tent and planned on sleeping there. 

But now, I only felt exhausted and overwhelmed.

These lovely people sensed my distress 

and offered me a ride down to the main road.

I gladly accepted.

I climb into their van and we head out across the valley

to a road pointing the way to the highway. 

I was shocked to see the main road was EIGHT MILES away!! 

I would have had to get up to the Monastery 

then down 8 miles to the main road, 

and then on to Santa Celia. 

I didn't have that kind of stamina, 

especially after the climb up the rocky trail. 

I would have had to sleep outside with no tent.

I am sure I could have done it if I had to, 

but at that moment, 

I was so happy that this French couple had rescued me!  

I couldn't help myself... I began crying in relief.

We drove and drove, 

around hills and through gorgeous forest. 

We finally reached the main road,

just a short distance from where I had left it that morning.

I was sniffling as I got out of their van. 

They hugged me and offered me food and water. 

"Would you like a little bread to eat?"

Photo by Frenchforfoodies

I was so hungry, not having planned for this adventure!  

I accepted, crying, thanking them profusely.  

They asked if I'd like a ride to Santa Celia. 

I declined.

I needed the time to pull myself together.   

More hugs, and they left, beep-beeping their horn down the road. 

It made me laugh, and I needed that more than anything!

I walked about an hour. 

I could smell food.. .literally. 

And then to the left was a wonderful bar 

where they grill your food on order over an open fire.  

I was so happy!  

I ordered a big old beer with lemon and studied the menu. 

Then I had them bring me a giant mixed salad 

and beef with roasted peppers. 

Time for celebration! 

I was alive!

The beer and the food revived my spirits 

and I continued on to Santa Celia. 

I took a right turn through a residential area, 

past fenced empty lots, 

and finally into the village itself.

I passed a bar which also was a tiny tienda,

but I had eaten, so I continued on to the albergue.   

There was a lot of road construction going on and I had to detour several times. 

When I reached the albergue,

there was nobody there, 

but a sign on the door said the Pilgrim should go in 

and make themselves at home.

So I did.

The albergue was a sweet little place 

with dorms for men and dorms for women. 

It had a nice kitchen with pots, pans, dishes, cutlery. 

It had a washing machine!

And upstairs was a bank of computers.

I wish I had photos to show you.

If anyone has photos of this albergue they can share, 

I'd love to add them to this posting.

I took a bed near the french doors, 

knowing I could crack them open in the night if it got too stuffy. 

Then I took a shower and waited for others to show up.

Soon 5 other Pilgrims showed up. 

One was a German boy who had just come from the Monastery

I had tried all day to reach!  

He told me he had walked from HERE and back today 

and that the hospitalera had allowed him to stay an extra night 

so he could make this journey. 

This is what I would suggest to any pilgrim wanting to see the Monastery. 

Either pay a taxi to take you up there from Santa Celia 

or walk from HERE up the main road. 

That washed out trail is a difficult one, 

and unless you are in really great shape or have a tent,

I can not in good conscience suggest it. 

Taking the main road from Santa Celia and back makes a lot more sense.

Another single Peregrina showed up, 

and then a French couple in their 60's. 

They were very nice, but also very tired. 

They had decided to take a taxi tomorrow to the next stop - 

her feet wouldn't carry her another kilometer. 

I absolutely understood!

Loretta never showed up

and I worried 

that she may have tried the trail to the Monastery also.

I wondered where she ended up?

We all pooled our resources that night and shared dinner. 

The French couple brought a bottle of wine 

and that healed my aches and pains from the climb.

I slept like a rock, 

listening to the lambs bleating in the field below my window.

My! What an adventure this was!  

I was absolutely exhausted,

but woke up thankful to have made it to Santa Celia.

See my AnnieWalkersCamino website at 

www.anniecarvalho.weebly.com

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe