To Hornillos and San Bol

2006

Hornillos

In 2006, we stayed in the Hornillos Municipal Albergue. 

It was tiny, cramped, and dirty.

The attendant was a kind old man.

This was my first experience with bedbugs.

The albergue filled up quickly,

and people were then given mats to sleep on the floor

in a nearby building.

Many of them came out the next morning 

covered in bites.

I had never seen anything like it before,

lumps as large as apricots on people,

red an inflamed.

I felt lucky I didn't get bitten,

and have never again tempted fate by staying there,

as I have met bug-bitten pilgrims over and over,

who got their case of bedbugs at Hornillos.

The church was very pretty,

and if they clean the place up and get rid of the bugs,

I think it will be a nice place to sleep,

but I went by there in 2013,

and found bedbugs again.

Inside the Church

Drying laundry

2013

San Bol

In 2013, I stayed in San Bol. This was a beautiful albergue with a sweet spirit.

The floors were warmed and there was only electricity for 1 hour in the evening so people could charge their phones. The rest of the time, it was blessedly quiet.

To Viloria de la Rioja

2013

Walking Alone

In 2006, Joe and I stayed with Acacio and Orietta in Viloria.
I wanted to stay here again in 2013, but apparently they were closed.

Here are some photos of that beautiful walk.

I love all the old doors in Spain

Right past Viloria,

across the road is a wonderful restaurant

where I had this luscious ensalada mixta!

Camino 2016 - We've Lowered Our Group Trip Prices!

Due to the drop in the Euro/Dollar exchange rate, 

we're pleased to announce we have lowered our prices dramatically for the 2015 May and September Camino treks.

* * * * *

The BEST OF BOTH 2016

May 9 - 30, 2016

with Annie Carvalho 

September 17 - October 8

with Joe Walsh 

21 days ; 20 nights

 $1495*

Price INCLUDES: 

-20 Nights Lodging

- Experienced Group Leader 

-Bound Walking Booklet with Maps

-Bus Fares (Logroño-Burgos-Leon-Astorga)

-Transport from Orisson - SJPP - Orisson

-Taxi from Villafranca to O Cebreiro to Samos

- Buffet Breakfast in Santiago

(several other breakfasts are included)

 -50+ Pages of Preparatory Newsletters

-Detailed Packing List

-List of Hotels with Contact Info for Family/Friends

- Escort to Pilgrim Office in SJPP

- Pilgrim Mass at Roncesvalles

-Personal Help with Planning

-Pilgrim Shell

- Pilgrim Credential

- Gift

Our Sarria to Santiago trip price has also been lowered.

To see more click here:

Anniewalkers Camino

Seats and a Bed at the Monastery

Today I spent some time trying to select my seats on my upcoming flight to Madrid.

Because of my MCS, I need to sit up close to the front 

and as far away from the middle of the perfumed crowd as possible. 

I often am able to get the bulkhead seats,

 but this time, they had already been booked.

I tried emailing US Airways.

I tried calling - no humans available.

I finally found a number for their "Preferred Dividend" program and called.

A human answered!

I told him my problem and he was very kind.

He helped me select seats that were not the best for my condition,

but were better than I would have been able to get on my own.

Looks like I'll be masking up for the flight unless someone declares a Fragrance Free Day!

I always have a lot of anxiety about the flight.

If there are a lot of people with heavy perfume,

I can be sick for 3-4 days afterwards, 

which is one reason I book a hotel for a few days after arrival.

One good thing is that this is an overnight flight from the East Coast,

so I will take a couple of Tylenol PMs and hopefully sleep through most of it.

I have booked lodging at the Hostal Buelta in Madrid.

I chose it because it was close to Atocha Train Station

and I'll be catching a train next day to Sevilla.

In Sevilla, I cancelled my room at Pension Vergara.
Instead, I've booked a room at
the Casa de Oración at Santa Rosalía Cathedral.

This place is run by the Poor Clare nuns of Sevilla
and I understand it to be

a silent retreat.
If not, it will at least be quieter than a room in town.

It also is less likely to be perfumed.

Also, I just like the idea of supporting the nuns
and their mission to the poor in Sevilla and in Africa.

The cost of the room for 3 nights is about 8 euros more
but I think it will be worth the extra cost.
 

The Monastery and Convent of Santa Rosalia is located on Cardenal Spinola Street, number 8, next to the Plaza de la Gavidia.

Founded in 1701 by the Capuchin nuns coming from Zaragoza, it was completed in 1724.  In 1761, a fire destroyed much of the building.  It took two years to rebuild.

The church has a single nave with a barrel vault. The altarpiece is the work of the Portuguese sculptor Cayetano De Acosta. The church also houses paintings attributed to Juan de Espinal. 

Those who stay here have the chance to experience a few days of silence and recollection in the House of Prayer. The House of Prayer is located in a separate area of ​​the closure.

In the chapel, I understand you can see Santa Rosalia sleeping.

The 18^th century building consists of a cloistered courtyard around which the different rooms are installed. In the common area there is a lounge (old Locutorio) equipped with TV, which is available to all visitors.

The Hospederia has 9 single, double and triple beds All are furnished, are ensuite, and have air conditioning. All rooms are cleaned daily with a change of sheets and towels if you require it.  There are five single rooms and four double bedrooms, each room has a bed, nightstand, wardrobe and seating areas, bathroom and independent. There are common areas like the living room, patio and roof, and ironing area on the upper floor.On the ground floor there is a kitchen with dishes, refrigerator and microwave to prepare meals.

Pilgrims of the Via de la Plata can stay at the monastery in a special area and common room with shared bathroom. For pilgrims, there is a dining room where you can have breakfast, and in the upper area there is a meeting and conference room and access to the choir loft of the church where you can attend the daily prayers.

You can book accommodation for 25 euros per night for a single room.

Pilgrim rooms can not be reserved and I believe the beds are 18 euros.
I will let you know.

Bookings can be made at:   casadeoracion.capuchinas @ gmail.com

Reception hours are from 9 to 13 and from 16 to 20.30 h.

You can NOT collect your key after hours. However, once you have the key, there is no curfew.

I am really looking forward to staying here!

I will report back as to cleanliness, comfort, and convenience.

I will spend 3 nights in Seville.

Via de la Plata Application for iPhone or iPad

A couple of weeks ago I purchased this cool application for my iPhone called Via de la Plata by Melanie Radzicki McManus.

I heard about the application from Melanie on the Camino pilgrim forum, and thought for $3.99 it was worth a try!

I purchased the iPhone version and I'm so happy with it that last night I bought the iPad version!  I will be using the iPhone version on my walk next month. But the iPad version is easier to read and study now because of the larger size. However, for a total of $8.00, buying both is much less expensive than purchasing a heavy guidebook to pack along.

Melanie has made a wonderful application, and the walking directions appear to be very clear and concise. There are many, many photos of the places you are passing. There are very good maps. And best of all, people using the application on the road can post comments about changes or items of interest.

About the only thing that would make this app better would be a list of albergues in each village. But seeing how that changes from year to year, I think the comment section is probably the best place for that.

So... if you're going to walk the Via de la Plata and you're looking for a guidebook... and if you plan on taking your smart phone anyway.. pick up this application.

It rocks!

Love,
Annie

****************
Here is a link:  VDLP Application

RIP Gilbert Janeri

Gilbert Janeri, in a photo taken shortly before his departure to Spain

 The family of the Brazilian found dead last Saturday morning in Spain have decided to complete the Camino not finished by Gilbert Janeri, 43 years of age. According to Sonia Toledo (sister), Gilbert's body will be cremated in Brazil on March 30 and she, her husband, daughter, and son-in-law will depart by car to finish The Way for him.

Sonia said it was her brother's wish that if he could not survive the journey, his body be cremated and his ashes left at the Cruz de Ferro.

"We have decided to make the journey by car and get the stamps as we pass through the villages, as Gilbert wished," she said.

The Brazilian executive was found dead on Saturday morning by park rangers on one of the trails near the Camino de Santiago. According to the family, he was 700 meters away from the route. "We do not know if the snow hid the plates with arrows. Surely he was lost."

The last contact with the family of Gilbert was done by e-mail on March 6 in the city of Saint Jean Pied de Port, France. He had written that he was not sure if he would take the path through the Pyrenees or some other. It was snowing and there were very few pilgrims on the trail.

"He told us not to worry, that he would contact us to let us know he was safe," said his sister. "We spent a week without news, waiting, and nothing. We sent e-mail, and he did not answer. But we thought soon we would receive news. Many people are shocked."

Gilbert's body was found five hours walk from St. Jean. The Consulate of Brazil in Barcelona told the relatives that the executive may have died of a heart attack, but there is no confirmation yet.

Sonia believes this was the cause of the death of her brother.  Their father also died of a heart attack at age 46. According to the sister, Gilbert was a smoker and despite having been prepared to walk the Camino, the first section has very steep climbs and the deep snow may have made the trek more difficult.

The sister suggested that Gilbert felt he would not come back alive, and a weekend before he left, the family attended the film The Way, in which the main character travels to France to recover the body of his son, killed on the Camino de Santiago.

Gilbert worked at a Canadian logistics company in Brazil and eventually came to live in Canada, where he obtained citizenship.  

He leaves a son.

* * *

To be wrapped in the snowy wings of the Pyrenees is not such a bad way to go.

Many of us understand this burning desire you had to follow the call of the Camino. 

We are thankful you were doing something you loved.

May you rest in Peace, Gilbert.

We will remember you.

Love, 

Annie

A Pilgrim Has Died on the Camino

Photo by Sylvia Nilsen

While walking the Camino, you will on occasion pass a memorial or marker indicating a place where a pilgrim has lost his or her life. The feeling for me is a combination of sadness, curiosity and respect.

I feel sad for the family because maybe this made their terrible fear come true, fear that the Camino is not safe, that their loved one would come to harm. I feel sad that the pilgrim did not finish the journey. I wonder what their last thoughts were? I am curious about the details. How did they die? Was it a heart attack? A stroke? Were they alone or with friends? How old was this person? And then those feelings turn to a deep respect that this pilgrim died while doing something that was more important to them than the fear of death. . . that their love for this pilgrimage made their death meaningful. Wouldn't we all like to die doing something we love? I know I would.

And so, these were the same feelings I had when I heard about the 42 year old man whose body was found on the Camino this week between St. Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles. From what I've heard in the forums, he was within sight of refuge.  Here is the latest report, posted by Navarricano, who lives in Pamplona. This is a quick translation of the article which appeared in the Saturday edition of the Diario de Navarra:
 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

A Brazilian pilgrim was found dead in a small gorge near Mt. Ortzanzurieta (Roncesvalles). The body was discovered by the forest ranger responsible for the area. The place in which the body of the pilgrim was found indicates that he had lost his way, and that he had suffered a fall. His backpack was found some 70 meters above the spot where his body lay.

He was apparently traveling alone, and until Friday nobody sounded the alarm that he was missing. For this reason, despite the fact that all of his personal identity papers were found in his backpack, an autopsy is required to confirm that the information contained in the documents correspond to those of the body that was recovered. Until the autopsy is complete, the deceased appears to be G.C.J., a resident in Canada. The location of the body suggests that the pilgrim died several days ago and the body only discovered once the snow had begun to melt.

The ranger had gone to inspect the area following the thaw. The body was discovered a little before 11.00 a.m. He alerted SOS Navarra, who in turn alerted the Burguete fire department, a medical team, the Guardia Civil and a helicopter rescue squad.

Three firefighters set out from Burguete. A fourth firefighter set out from Valcarlos, where he was serving as a replacement during the winter. The former left their vehicle parked at the albergue in Roncesvalles, from where the path that leads to the gorge starts. From there they had to continue on foot. Equipped with skis and snowshoes to walk on the snow, they also carried with them the equipment normally required to respond to these types of emergencies: a stretcher, a backpack with a first-aid kit, and another with clothing.

Following the ranger's indications, the firefighters began their trek. The going was initially over flat terrain, but soon became an uphill climb. Access to the area where the body lay was complicated due not only to the snow, but also because as they drew nearer to the gorge, the path was slicked with deep mud and wet leaves that made their path even more slippery. The helicopter crew followed their progress from the air as they made their ascent.

Following an hours' trek, the firefighters reached the forest ranger and the body of the pilgrim, resting face down in the gorge. At this point the Guardia Civil verified the pilgrim's death and ordered the corpse be removed from the area. The body was carried to an area where it could be tied to the stretcher and lifted to the helicopter, which transported it to the Navarran Institute of Forensic Medicine.

The Guardia Civil is in charge of the proceedings. Following the autopsy and the confirmation of the victim's identity, the Canadian consulate will be contacted in order to initiate the victim's repatriation to Canada.

It is clear from the small map that appeared in the article showing where the body was discovered that the pilgrim, upon reaching the Lepoeder hill, became disoriented. Everything was covered in snow, he could not follow the markings easily, and he headed off in the wrong direction as a result, ending up on a very dangerous cliff, where he slipped and fell into the gorge.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Those of us who have walked this route know this area. It is steep and slippery any time of year, can be treacherous in the rain, and apparently deadly in the snow.

This is a reminder, people.

If you are planning a winter Camino, please pay attention to the advice from the local people, the hospitaleros, and the staff in St. Jean Pied de Port. These people understand the weather of their region, which can quickly change from sunshine to severe.  If they tell you to take the lower route along the road, please listen!

I'm not suggesting this poor man did not heed advice; perhaps nobody told him the dangers of crossing this upper route during winter. But the snow is extremely deep this year. The trail markers are not tall enough to be seen, and it can be very foggy in addition. This leads to a chance of becoming disoriented and stepping off onto what you believe is firm ground, but is in fact a snowbank hiding a cliff, which appears to be what happened here.

This was a young, healthy man.
I'm sad for his family.

Buen Camino, Peregrino.
May you rest in peace.

Photo by Iasramblings

There's No Place Like Home!

Berries on the way to Roncesvalles

I returned to Portland this week after a nice visit with my mother in California.

I have to say, I already miss that California sunshine.

Even in the dead of winter, when it's icy cold, the blue sky and sunshine 

make a huge difference.

My bones are already growing cold here in dreary, grey Oregon.

I'll be glad to walk the Camino this Spring.

For those who might want a little help getting started on their Camino

or who may want to join our small walking group

for the Spring Walk,

here is my website:

Anniewalkers USA

We offer several options for people who want to walk the Camino

but aren't quite sure where to begin,

including our KickStart program,

where you walk with us for 7 days, 

then set out on your own once you "learn the ropes."

I hope you're all having a nice restful Winter.

For me, it's time to lose the belly fat

and begin training for the Spring Walk.

I started Callanetics 2 weeks ago 

to slowly stretch my 60 year old muscles,

and today I begin walking and weight training.

For me, walking the Camino is the only "medicine" 

that helps my MCS, 

so I look forward to everything except the flight,

which generally leaves me ill for several days after.

Mmmmmm.... First Class!  My dream!

I have a wish in my bucket list.

That is to fly, just once, 

First or Business Class to Spain.

Maybe I can trade someone mileage

in exchange for help planning their Camino.

Hmmmm... that's a thought I'll have to explore...

Until then,
Buen Camino!
Annie

Kick Start Camino !

I often get emails from people who would like to walk the Camino, but just need some help getting started. 

Because of this, 

I decided to include an inexpensive option called,

 "Kick Start Camino."

You may begin your Camino in St. Jean Pied de Port 

or meet our group in Pamplona and travel with us to SJPP.

Walk with our group 4 days until we again reach Pamplona. 

By the end of 4 days on the road, 

you'll be experienced enough to go it alone. 

If not, you are free to continue walking with our group, 

but at your own expense.  

If you need more support, 

I will charge you 30 euros per day.

This offer includes the following:

1. A monthly newsletter until departure. This is PACKED with helpful information to help you have a successful Camino.
2. Packing list: based on our extensive experience, we will help you decide what to pack.
3. PAID LODGING your first 3 nights (2 nights in SJPP; 1 night in Roncesvalles)
4. Assistance at the Pilgrim's Office in SJPP (getting your Credential and shell)
5. Help getting around SJPP for groceries, meals and other shopping
6. Invitation to join our group for two meals; one at a restaurant and one making our own food in the albergue kitchen.
7. Information covering blisters, bedbugs, pickpockets, backpacks, shoes, pharmacy needs, first aid, shopping, and many other topics.
8. A Walking Booklet that covers your first week. Suggestions as to which guidebook to buy.
9. Tourist information for a self guided tour of St. Jean Pied de Port and Pamplona.
10. Experienced guide walking with you for the first 3 or 4 days on the trail.
11. Basic trail navigation information: Waymarks and how to find them
12. Trekking pole/walking stick information: Do you take one or buy one on the trail?
13. Spanish language basics for pilgrims
14. One on one at-home and on-the-trail coaching.
15. Trip to the Correo (post office) if needed so you can see how it works.
16. Daily Q & A to address questions as they arise
17. Continued support via email as you need it before we leave and while on the Camino.

Cost:  350 Euros

For more information see my website:

AnnieWalkers Camino

Day 21 - SANTIAGO!

Joe rests and watches pilgrims arrive

It's busy today!

Blue Skies!

Lon and Katie are happy to be here!

Pam is always so happy!

HOORAY!

 Santiago at Sunset

The albergue at San Martin Pinario was beautiful inside.

The rooms were small but sufficient.

This is the best photo I have of the group at Santiago.

If anyone has a better one,

I'd love to have it!

I can't figure out how to nab Pam's great photo

from the disc she sent.

For many more photos of previous walks on the Camino Frances,
as well as the Aragones and Via de la Plata routes,
see previous posts.

Note:  If you are interested in walking the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino