To Leon

2006 - Autumn

In 2006, Joe and I stopped for a night in what was then a ghost town called Bercianos.

After checking in, 

we discovered bedbugs in the beds 

and made a quick exit.

It was getting late, and so we walked very fast 

to the next village,

El Burgo Raneros,

and found lodging and dinner.

But in racing to beat the setting sun

I got shin splints and could not walk 

the next morning.

And so we took a bus to Leon.

When we arrived in Leon, 

we were greeted by nuns checking and spraying everyone's packs for bedbugs!

My pack aired out all night.

 I slept in a top bunk, and next morning, 

the young man sleeping below me told us 

he had fought bedbugs all night long!  ::laughing:: 

He was hilarious!

I have since decided to always get a top bunk!

2009 - Summer

In 2009, we tried walking the Via de la Plata in June.

What a mistake that was!

In the end, 

it was so hot and we were so unprepared, 

it was dangerous.

So we jumped a bus and went to Leon,

and continued on the Camino Frances.

Once we finished there,

We walked a portion of the Portuguese Route from Porto.

I left this book about the VDLP 
at the Benedictine Monastery in Leon,
a move I've regretted ever since.

We were so happy to be walking the Camino Frances!

2012 - Early Summer

When we reached Leon in early June 2012, 

the weather was overcast and cool. 

Work was being done to clean 

the outside of the Cathedral,

which was no less imposing.

Some scary demons on the archivolt on the Cathedral

City walls

Leon was founded in the year 70 to protect the Galician gold mines from the indigenous populations of Astures and Cantabros, according to Gitlitz. It was also the Roman capital of northwest Spain. 

The Cathedral we see is the fourth church built on the site, others being constructed ca. 924 over ruins of a Roman bath, ca. 1084, ca. 1175, and the Gothic begun in ca. 1205.

The Roman wall was completed in the late 3rd or early 4th century and has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. 

The site of the Basílica de San Isidro, 

which is worth visiting, 

was once the site of a Roman Temple to Mercury.

2013

In 2013, walking alone, 

I decided to have some fun:

Churros and Chocolate!

Took my picture with Elvis

And with Santa's Elf

Then I visited the Cathedral Museum 

2014 Summer

The weather in 2014 was beautiful, clear, and sunny!

St. George and the Dragon

Lots of sidewalk cafes

Inside the Cathedral 

You never know who or what is under your seat

Horned Moses

Round Window outside

And from the inside

This can be interesting when it rains... 
be sure to look UP!

I found some special prices for food!

Here are some links to previous blogs I've written about Leon:

Leon Cathedral

And some photos from the 2014 trip to Leon:

2014 Leon Trip

Breakfast in Leon:

Desayuno en Leon

Some history of Leon:

Leon History

Enjoy!
Annie

Seats and a Bed at the Monastery

Today I spent some time trying to select my seats on my upcoming flight to Madrid.

Because of my MCS, I need to sit up close to the front 

and as far away from the middle of the perfumed crowd as possible. 

I often am able to get the bulkhead seats,

 but this time, they had already been booked.

I tried emailing US Airways.

I tried calling - no humans available.

I finally found a number for their "Preferred Dividend" program and called.

A human answered!

I told him my problem and he was very kind.

He helped me select seats that were not the best for my condition,

but were better than I would have been able to get on my own.

Looks like I'll be masking up for the flight unless someone declares a Fragrance Free Day!

I always have a lot of anxiety about the flight.

If there are a lot of people with heavy perfume,

I can be sick for 3-4 days afterwards, 

which is one reason I book a hotel for a few days after arrival.

One good thing is that this is an overnight flight from the East Coast,

so I will take a couple of Tylenol PMs and hopefully sleep through most of it.

I have booked lodging at the Hostal Buelta in Madrid.

I chose it because it was close to Atocha Train Station

and I'll be catching a train next day to Sevilla.

In Sevilla, I cancelled my room at Pension Vergara.
Instead, I've booked a room at
the Casa de Oración at Santa Rosalía Cathedral.

This place is run by the Poor Clare nuns of Sevilla
and I understand it to be

a silent retreat.
If not, it will at least be quieter than a room in town.

It also is less likely to be perfumed.

Also, I just like the idea of supporting the nuns
and their mission to the poor in Sevilla and in Africa.

The cost of the room for 3 nights is about 8 euros more
but I think it will be worth the extra cost.
 

The Monastery and Convent of Santa Rosalia is located on Cardenal Spinola Street, number 8, next to the Plaza de la Gavidia.

Founded in 1701 by the Capuchin nuns coming from Zaragoza, it was completed in 1724.  In 1761, a fire destroyed much of the building.  It took two years to rebuild.

The church has a single nave with a barrel vault. The altarpiece is the work of the Portuguese sculptor Cayetano De Acosta. The church also houses paintings attributed to Juan de Espinal. 

Those who stay here have the chance to experience a few days of silence and recollection in the House of Prayer. The House of Prayer is located in a separate area of ​​the closure.

In the chapel, I understand you can see Santa Rosalia sleeping.

The 18^th century building consists of a cloistered courtyard around which the different rooms are installed. In the common area there is a lounge (old Locutorio) equipped with TV, which is available to all visitors.

The Hospederia has 9 single, double and triple beds All are furnished, are ensuite, and have air conditioning. All rooms are cleaned daily with a change of sheets and towels if you require it.  There are five single rooms and four double bedrooms, each room has a bed, nightstand, wardrobe and seating areas, bathroom and independent. There are common areas like the living room, patio and roof, and ironing area on the upper floor.On the ground floor there is a kitchen with dishes, refrigerator and microwave to prepare meals.

Pilgrims of the Via de la Plata can stay at the monastery in a special area and common room with shared bathroom. For pilgrims, there is a dining room where you can have breakfast, and in the upper area there is a meeting and conference room and access to the choir loft of the church where you can attend the daily prayers.

You can book accommodation for 25 euros per night for a single room.

Pilgrim rooms can not be reserved and I believe the beds are 18 euros.
I will let you know.

Bookings can be made at:   casadeoracion.capuchinas @ gmail.com

Reception hours are from 9 to 13 and from 16 to 20.30 h.

You can NOT collect your key after hours. However, once you have the key, there is no curfew.

I am really looking forward to staying here!

I will report back as to cleanliness, comfort, and convenience.

I will spend 3 nights in Seville.

Day 10: The Road to Ruesta

The 30 k walk to Ruesta today was probably my limit as far as distance goes.

Advice: start EARLY and take plenty of water. 

There is no place to fill your bottles and there is very little shade on most of the trail.

We began by leaving Arres about 8 am. 

After a steep descent we turned to look back at the storybook skyline. 

What a sweet place! 

Looking back at Arres up on the hilltop

Soon we were walking through lush wheat fields 

dotted with wildflowers of every hue. 

There were interesting geological formations

 and the trail ran parallel to the river where a lone cuckoo kept calling. 

I think he was saying

 'You people are CUCKOO to be walking in this heat! 

For the weather has certainly turned summer. 

Another Pilgrim left us a message!

Be careful... sometimes the signs are down

 Last night was very special as we ate our communal dinner then stood on the edge of the hill to watch the sunset. It reminded me of my young days camping with my grandparents. Each night we would walk to sunset rock in Sequoia National Park to silently watch the sun sink below the horizon.

Back to the descent... 

We had decided early to pass by Artieda

based on my experience and the experience of some of my fellow pilgrims

2 years ago.

The owner's son is very nice.

The owner lady is not very nice at all,

refusing to give water to pilgrims,

and separating us out from her regular customers,

and not in a good way.

So, rather than spend my money here,

I chose to walk on to Ruesta.

After passing Artieda at about 21 k 

we walked along the road for about 6 kilometers more 

and then took a sharp uphill trail.

 From there we walked a shady path for what seemed forever until finally we emerged at Ruesta!

Dang, my feet hurt!

Here is a photo of the Roman Road at Ruesta. 

It looks as if they laid It yesterday!

The ruins here are awesome and there's plenty to explore.

The Albergue here costs a little more than usual,  but is worth it. 

Pilgrims pay 12 euros to sleep, or 22 half pension. 

 Dinner was good. 

A huge salad, pork ribs, peas, carrots, 

the ever-present fries, wine, bread, 

and a pudding dessert.

I'm full.

I'm tired.

I'm going to bed.

Goodnight world.

Love,

Annie

Day 9: Santa Celia to Arres

Today's walk was short, only about 12 kilometers.

But do not discount the last 3 kilometers in the heat.

It is an uphill rocky trail around the mountainside 

and has plenty of loose rock.

We left Sta. Celia about 9 am after our 3 euro breakfast at the Albergue.

Not a bad price for 2 ups of coffee, croussants and cakes.

We stopped at the panaderia hoping to pick up 

a loaf of the famous local bread for our lunch,

but we were too early.

The walking was nice, much of it along the Aragon River.

We saw a lot of wildlife, 

including a vulture feasting on a dead boar!

Phewie! That thing stunk!

The wheat fields were full of wild poppies.

I've never seen so many wild flowers.

I've walked in the Fall in the past

and the landscape is totally different

this time of year.

At the bridge we turned right and walked over the bridge
and about 100 meters to a market called Meramix
(on our left)
where a nice man from Columbia let us browse and buy our groceries.
We found fresh bread, tuna, ham & cheese,
a beautiful juicy orange and a small but sweet nectarine,
 juice, sunflower seeds, gazpacho, olives and salty bits
all for about 12 euros.

We walked back across the bridge and sat on the benches
and had lunch before continuing on our way.

If it is hot, you can hold off eating for 15
 minutes because there are shaded Picnic tables
right across the road from the trailhead up the mountain.

Be sure you have water if it is hot
because the trail is a bit steep at first and there is not much shade.

Very soon after the bridge the road splits.
You bear to the right and walk the road
until you catch the trail to Arres.



As you meander up this trail take it slow.
There are some slippery places,
and the view is spectacular,
so you must keep your eye on the trail
and stop when you want to look down into the valley
from which you climb.

Once you come around the corner and see Arres 

take caution for the last 10 meters of trail is treacherous! 

Go slow.

My walking partner 2 years ago fell and split open her head

on this section,

ending her Camino early!

After reaching Arres, 

we were happy to see a familiar smiling face from home! 

Angela from the Pacific Northwest is hospitalera at Arres!

This is one of my favorite stops along the Aragones Route.

Laundry was done and hung out back

The beds are in a nice cozy stone room

The Albergue here is donativo with places for 12. 

At 6 pm they will open the church for you to visit, 

after which all pitch in to make the communal meal.

The weather was pretty, and so we ate outdoors.

 I think 8 to 10 minimum euros is a fair donation per person considering you get dinner and breakfast. But give what you can please.

This albergue has a 'free box' here if you need gear or would like to lighten your load. 

Take what you need or leave what you no longer want to carry. 

Some pilgrim will be happy to have what you donate!

This is such a sweet village.
There are views in every direction.

There is a nice bar where you can have 

a cervesa con limon (very refreshing!) or a coffee 

or buy food if you can't wait for dinner.

There are awesome hot showers 

where you are standing next to the huge foundation boulder 

and a great scrubbing sink to do your wash.

The rest of the afternoon you can explore the tiny village, 

take a siesta, or sit in the shade out front.

Angela took us on a tour of the tiny chapel after dinner.

We had a friendly visitor

Watching the sun set

I am in love with Arres!