How Long Does it Take to Walk the Camino Frances

Many people ask me, 

"How long does it take to walk the Camino?"

My answer is always,"Well, that depends..."

It depends on many things.  First, I'll give you some information, then some questions to ask yourself.

The Camino de Santiago is approximately 

800 kilometers long. 

That's close to 500 miles.  

It has been broken down 

into walkable stages (called etapas) 

by various guidebook companies.  

The general agreement is there are 31 stages.  

The stages vary between 20 and 31 kilometers 

(12 and 19 miles).

Some are flat. 

Some are rolling hills. 

A few can be daunting.

So, 31 stages would mean 31 days of walking. 

But that's if you just rush through, walking, walking, 

and not stopping to see the sites!

There are so many things to see, and if you're in Spain, 

why not see them while you're there?

I usually give myself 60 days 

if I'm walking the Camino Frances, carrying my pack.

Those 31 stages aren't set in stone! 

Along each stage are many options

 for stopping and sleeping. 

Personally, I like stopping "between the stages" 

to get out of the big wave of pilgrims 

who are sticking to the guidebooks!

You can break the Camino up 

into however many stages 

you are comfortable walking!

So ask yourself these questions when doing your planning:

How Many Kilometers/Miles Can You Comfortably Walk?

Me, on my first  Camino.
Sometimes you just have to stop and rest,
no matter where you are!

I say "comfortably" because a lot of people push their bodies WAY beyond what is comfortable and end up with injuries like blisters or shin splints that stop their trek in its tracks. Most people have wonderful intentions about training for the Camino, but life gets in the way, and they find themselves starting out with little, if any, training under their belt. They end up training ON the Camino. 

And that's ok!  Really!  You can do it this way - 

you just need to give yourself a few extra days.

Do this: put about 10% of your body weight into a backpack and go take a hike. How far can you walk without being exhausted? This is the mileage I'd stick to for the first few days on the Camino, slowly increasing my distance each day.

If you are beginning in St. Jean Pied de Port  (SJPP) I strongly suggest you take the first etapa from SJPP to Roncesvalles in TWO days. That walk from SJPP to Orisson is only 8 kilometers. To Borda is 9 kilometers. 

But they don't call it "Hell Day" for nothing!  

It is extremely steep!  

If you are used to hiking 

and carrying a heavy pack 

and you're in excellent condition, 

you'll have no problem making it to Roncesvalles. 

But if you're in the shape most of us are in, 

stop at Orisson or Borda the first day.  

It's possible to get reservations at each for the night, but beds are limited. If you cannot get a bed, simply walk or taxi back to SJPP for a 2nd night, then taxi back up to Orisson in the morning to continue over the mountain.

The second day into Roncesvalles (13k) 

is a STEEP downhill walk. 

If it's been raining or snowing, it can be treacherously slippery. The beech leaves make it like an ice rink!  

If you have attempted to walk the entire stage, and are already exhausted, you're in for trouble.

When it's raining and slippery,

I take the road.

It's just as beautiful a walk,

and there is less chance of injury.

The third day, most people walk all the way to Zubiri (22.2k). Again, the descent into Zubiri is steep and slippery. In the past two years, very deep, close-together crevices have cut up the trail. You really have to watch your step or take the chance of breaking a leg or an ankle. There are several options along the route for shorter distance. Viskarret (also called Biskaretta and Gerendiain) is one at about 12k.  

From there, the 4th day, you could continue on to Zubiri.
(Or you could taxi to Zubiri from Viskarret.)

The next day, head to Trinidad de Arre or Pamplona.

If you are beginning in another city,

do the same thing.

Plan to walk half-stages for the first few days,

slowly increasing your distance,

until you are walking as far as you'd like each day.

This is a good way to work up to walking full stages.

You have not injured yourself.

You've figured out how much of your heavy pack

 you can discard.

And you know the ropes.

From this point, if you are booking lodging, 

you can plan your trip based on 20-30k days.

If you are staying in albergues, 

you can just walk until you're tired, and stop.

* * *

I once passed a woman on the Camino, 

who was morbidly obese.

I asked her, "How you doing?"

She replied, "I'm ok.
I asked, "How far you going?"

She told me she would walk as far as she could,

then stop. 

She realized she was handicapped 

by her weight

and didn't want to have a heart attack,

but she WAS going to walk the Camino!

She began just walking 5-7 kilometers per day,

and slowly increased her distance.

I ran into her in Santiago a couple of months later.

She had made it all the way,

walking full stages after a few weeks.

And she had lost an incredible amount of weight.

She looked and felt great!

* * *

There is no rule about where you should begin your Camino. The only rule on the Camino Frances is if you want to collect the Compostela, you must walk from Sarria to Santiago. So you have a lot of great choices. Here are some of my favorites:

St. Jean Pied de Port - A lot of people like to begin here. Many people believe this is the 'traditional' starting place, but it is not. The traditional starting place is your front door!  However, that said, SJPP is a lovely village and a fun place to start. What it means, though, is you will have to walk over a big steep hill in the Pyrenees and take a chance of being injured. If the weather is clear, it will be one of the most spectacular days of your life. If it's foggy, it can be one of the worst. Getting there is easy during the season from May to end of September. You can catch a bus directly from the Madrid airport to SJPP. (The bus does go via Pamplona these days. ) Or you can catch a bus directly from Madrid airport to Pamplona, rest a day or two, then bus or taxi to SJPP. Or you can fly into Paris and take a train. I've done all three and I prefer going from Madrid to Pamplona to SJPP.

Roncesvalles - This is a more traditional starting place and you avoid the big mountain crossing. It's a wonderful place to begin your Camino. You can take a bus from the Madrid airport to Pamplona, then a bus from Pamplona to Roncesvalles.

Sarria - If you only have a couple of weeks, you can walk from Sarria and get the Compostela. Only 5 stages, give yourself a day or two at each end for a more relaxed Camino. To do this, I would fly into Santiago, then take a bus (or taxi) to Sarria to begin. 

It's only 70 miles and a 1.5 hour bus ride.

Madrid - Fly into Madrid and just start walking!  The Madrid route is easy to follow, and is more like what the Camino was 10 years ago before it got so busy. Be prepared for culture shock, however, once you reach Sahagun, where the Madrid route joins up to the Camino Frances and you are suddenly in a herd of pilgrims!

Other places to begin include any of the larger cities where you can fly or bus in; Burgos, Logrono, Leon.

What Would You Like to See?

There are so many wonderful sites to see 

along the Camino!  

Every day you will pass villages and churches, including some very tiny ones. Stop and peek in. I have seen art in some of those tiny churches that is just as spectacular as anything I've seen in the Louvre or British Museum.  Places I would suggest stopping for an extra day are:

Pamplona.

I like to fly into Madrid, then take a bus directly from the airport to Pamplona. I am flying from the west coast of the USA, so the time change is hard on me. I give myself two full days in Pamplona to adjust to the time change and to see the Old Town. Then, when I'm walking the Camino and the herd is stopping in Pamplona, I can just walk on through.

There is a LOT to see in Pamplona; the cool drawbridge you walk into the city on, the city walls, the parks, the Cathedrals and many other beautiful churches, and the Museu Navarra. I would say if you only have time for one, to be sure to visit the Museu Navarra. It is a small museum, but a lovely one, and if you show your Credential, you'll get a nice discount. I believe the museum is free on Sundays. You can check their website to be sure.

If you are lucky, you may pass a festival and see the fantastic GIGANTES!

Also, there are many wonderful places for tapas in Pamplona. 

You can pick up last minute items you need 

at the China shop (like a dollar store) 

or at the pilgrim shop Caminoteca.

And remember, 

many tourist attractions are CLOSED on Mondays 

in Spain. 

That will be the rule all along the Camino, 

so plan accordingly.

* * *

Burgos.  

In Burgos there are two main attractions. First is the Burgos Cathedral. It is magnificent! And even if you aren't Catholic, you should take time to see it. The art is unbelievable! I once spent 8 hours inside. Tip: there are no toilets inside, but if you really have to go, ask the people at reception. They will usually let you out to find a bar, then let you back in.

The second attraction in Burgos is the Museum of Human Evolution. This is a world class museum. And if you arrive early enough in the morning you can catch a ride out to the dig site at Atapuerca for a small fee. 

* * *

Leon

I love spending a day in Leon. The Cathedral and Cathedral Museum there are worth visiting. The architecture, the stained glass, the treaures, all are really something to see! And if you enjoy churches, the Basilica of San Isidoro is another favorite. There, you can usually attend a 7:00 pm Pilgrim Mass on most nights. Check the door for current times.  Leon is a hub of activity. Find a seat outside, have a drink, and watch the pilgrims go by. Order some churros and chocolate. Explore the back streets of the old part of the city - find a local restaurant (not a tourist one) and have a wonderful meal!  You can find an inexpensive private room in Leon on booking.com

* * *

Astorga

I always stop in Astorga on our group trips so people have the opportunity to see the Episcopal Palace designed by Gaudi. I can't begin to tell you how beautiful it is inside. It remind me of a castle in a fairy tale. Definitely worth a visit. Also in Astorga is the funny little Museum of Chocolate. Tiny, and almost silly, but with a very cool vintage film that shows how chocolate is made. For the 2 euro entrance fee, you can't go wrong. For lodging in Astorga, if I'm walking without a group, I stay at the municipal albergue, which I've always found 

to be clean and affordable. 

DO NOT stay at San Javier!!!  It has been a haven for bedbugs for many years and the management apparently does not care. Until they get new owners, 

I would avoid it at all cost.

 * * *

Santiago

Santiago deserves a 2 or 3 day stay, in my opinion.  There is a lot to see and do there. The Cathedral, of course, is important. And if you're lucky, you will see the Botafumiero swing! There is a fantastic cultural (folklorico) museum there called Pobo Gallego, an open market, great food and shopping, and many other things to see. Wander out of old town into the newer city if you're looking for good deals on clothing and shoes - get away from the tourist trap. 

* * *

Finisterra and Muxia

By now you will have made many friends on the Camino, and my best advice for seeing Finisterra and Muxia if you are not walking there is to share a taxi. The taxi stand is right next to the San Martin Pinario building (across from the Cathedral). There, you can negotiate a taxi to pick you up early in the morning, drive you to Finisterra and wait while you poke around, drive you to Muxia and wait while you have lunch, then drive you back to Santiago. If 4 people go, it's often less than you will pay 

for a bus ticket to/from Finisterra alone, 

and you'll be going on your own schedule.

Ok... so those are the sites you might enjoy seeing, and places you might take rest days.

So, add those days into your walking schedule.

Must You Walk Every Step?

Some people believe you must walk every step of the way from SJPP to Santiago. 

This is not true. 

There are no rules like that.

 The only "rule" is if you want to collect the Catholic Compostela, you must walk every step for the last 100 kilometers, which is from Sarria to Santiago on the Camino Frances.

There are many opportunities to bus or taxi between villages, and it's fine to do so if that's what fits your schedule. Of course, it's easier to catch a bus in a larger city. But many of the smaller villages have bus service as well. Almost always, the people at the albergue will know the bus schedule if there is one.  In my experience, bus is simpler and more available than train along the Camino. And you can buy your ticket directly from the bus driver in the smaller villages. Don't bother buying tickets before you leave home - just get them in Spain. 

If you DO plan any train travel, and you are over 60, you can get a Tarjeta Dorada (Gold Card) which will give you some fantastic discounts up to 50% off. I use this when I travel BACK to Madrid from Santiago. That trip is important to book ahead - I would book it the first chance I got when I arrived in Spain, either in Madrid or Pamplona or somewhere at the beginning of the trip. If you wait until you arrive in Santiago, you may find the train full. Cost in the past has been around 50-60 euros.

Anyway, if you only have 3 or 4 weeks, skip some sections!  Skip the Meseta. I have a love/hate relationship with that section of the Camino. It is long, flat, and boring. There is (literally) nothing to see. Not a tree. Not a building between villages. On the other had, it's a great place for reflection and prayer. But if you must skip something, skip the Meseta is my advice.

How Much Do You Have to Spend?

What is your budget?

How long you walk will depend 

on how much money you have to spend. 

The Camino is not expensive at all, in my opinion.  Once I am there, I get by very comfortably on 20 euros per day if I am staying in albergues. That includes my one nice meal a day plus coffee and drinks along the route.

If I am booking private lodging of course, it is more.  For private lodging I pay anywhere from 20 to 65 euros per night for two people. It just depends on where you are along the route. If you do plan on booking private lodging, I'd budget an extra 40 euros per night to be safe. 

It is possible, if you know your walking schedule, to book your lodging ahead of time and know your budget. That takes some research and time, however, and most people don't bother.

* * *

So there you have it

These are the first questions you should ask yourself when you're planning your trip.

Once you've answered, you should have a better idea of how long you can afford to walk.

There are many good websites that will help you plan.

Here are a couple of my favorites:

EROSKI

GODESALCO

and of course there is gronze.com

And remember, if you don't want to mess with all this, you can let ME do the planning!

Consider walking with one of our small groups of 6-8 pilgrims and having your double private lodging booked for you each night.  This year we have a 24 day trek from SJPP to Santiago planned and we still have some spots open. 

We operate out of Dallas, Oregon, in the United States, and we have lots of experience on the Camino.

Come walk with us!

And have a Buen Camino!

Anniewalkers Camino

Camino 2016 - We've Lowered Our Group Trip Prices!

Due to the drop in the Euro/Dollar exchange rate, 

we're pleased to announce we have lowered our prices dramatically for the 2015 May and September Camino treks.

* * * * *

The BEST OF BOTH 2016

May 9 - 30, 2016

with Annie Carvalho 

September 17 - October 8

with Joe Walsh 

21 days ; 20 nights

 $1495*

Price INCLUDES: 

-20 Nights Lodging

- Experienced Group Leader 

-Bound Walking Booklet with Maps

-Bus Fares (Logroño-Burgos-Leon-Astorga)

-Transport from Orisson - SJPP - Orisson

-Taxi from Villafranca to O Cebreiro to Samos

- Buffet Breakfast in Santiago

(several other breakfasts are included)

 -50+ Pages of Preparatory Newsletters

-Detailed Packing List

-List of Hotels with Contact Info for Family/Friends

- Escort to Pilgrim Office in SJPP

- Pilgrim Mass at Roncesvalles

-Personal Help with Planning

-Pilgrim Shell

- Pilgrim Credential

- Gift

Our Sarria to Santiago trip price has also been lowered.

To see more click here:

Anniewalkers Camino

On To St Jean Pied de Port

The road up to SJPP is winding and narrow and it feels like you are on Mr. Toad's Wild Ride! About 10 k from our destination some of us were needing a break.

Here are Jeffrey, Eileen, and Judive waiting by the taxi. So far, the weather looks to be perfect!

We arrived at Gite Compostella and were warmly greeted by Peter, the owner. 

He is always so happy and hospitable!

This painting hangs in the dining room. 

Joe says it looks like Adrian Brody. 

I just think it is lovely. 

Here I am with our beautiful group of pilgrims.

It's an international group, 

with people from the USA,

Australia,

and South Africa.

Linda and Pam

are signing up for their Pilgrim Credential

while the others patiently wait their turn.

Afterwards, 

a cold drink and a nice meet & greet

to hear each other's stories.

"How did you hear about the Camino?"

and

"Why are you walking?"

led to laughter, as well as tears.

From out of the blue came a voice,

a voice like no other,

a voice we would learn to quickly recognize

and grow to love.

It was PAM!!

Our lost sheep who had arranged to meet us in SJPP.

She didn't waste any time making friends!

I miss her now... I miss them all.

Clare, from South Africa,

and Joe from Portland, Oregon

get acquainted over a beer.

Later, everyone chipped in and

we 'ate in' at Gite Compostelle.

They have a nice little kitchen there

with a couple of good sized tables.

This is going to be a fun trip!

Ok!

Everybody to bed!

It's going to be an early morning!

Four More Sleeps Until Barcelona!

Well, it's just four more sleeps until I leave for Barcelona and there's a flurry of activity in getting ready.

My youngest son, Cameron, visited last weekend. I was so happy to see him and it was sweet of him to care enough to come for a visit before I leave for 5 months.

I'm packing, weighing my pack, unpacking and repacking.
I think I'll send a box to Wales to await my arrival there.
A friend has given us an excellent price on a flat for two months between Camino treks.
That way I'll have fresh clothes and shoes for the second Camino trek in September.

I picked up my last September walker yesterday. She is from Australia and I almost fell off my chair when I saw her full name. She has the exact same first and last name as my childhood best friend, Pam. This must be a good omen!

Yesterday, I made two items for my trip, a bedbug sheet and a new bath towel.

The bedbug sheet was made from a sheer curtain, sprayed with Permethrin.

Measuring the curtain fabric

We hung it on a line outdoors

We mixed the permethrin in this bottle for spraying

I was hoping I'd be able to use this, but even though I had Joe do the spraying and I only handled the sheet once it was dry, I had a reaction. My face felt like it was on fire and no matter how much I washed, nothing helped. This lasted until I went to bed.

So I don't feel I'll be able to use it and I don't want to infect the other items in my pack. Even though the bedbug sheet is in a ziplock bag, I'm afraid to use it. So if anybody wants a home-made bedbug sheet, let me know. You can have it for the price of the permethrin plus postage ($10 plus postage). Better let me know quick, though, as I leave on Monday for Barcelona.

The bath sheet turned out nice!  I read about using muslin on the Camino forum and thought, "Wow! What a great idea!"  I had a few yards of muslin here for quilting, very lightweight. So I measured off a piece about the size of a regular bath towel and hemmed it on the machine.

It works GREAT!  It's very lightweight, absorbs water like a sponge, and dries in less than an hour.

The dark spot is my shadow. The towel is cream color.

I embroidered my name on the edges so it doesn't walk away, and I'm very happy with my new backpacking towel.  A person could make it even smaller, but I wanted to be able to wrap it around myself like a regular towel.

Today, I have to do last minute budgeting. Then I need to weigh and repack my backpack again. I'm trying to keep it 10% of my body weight and this is difficult because I'm taking an iPAD, which weighs about 14 ounces plus paperwork I'll need on the Camino.  I think my pack may be overweight this trip.

Here's a photo of what I need to pack!

I bought a cool new iPad sleeve and hard case for my camera.

I bought this waist pack - I like it because it is compact

I pack my clothes in these waterproof nysil bags so they stay dry

My  old Tilley Hat goes along. Ugly as sin, but works for sun or rain!

I bought a new rubber clothesline. Couldn't find my old one.

This opens out to a full sized day pack!

Plug adaptor for Spain

The good news is that if the backpack is too heavy, I'll only have to carry it for the first 2 weeks. From that point on, I have hired bag transport for my group, and I can probably share the cost with one of them for some of the heavier items, and carry less weight on my back.

We set up the screen tent in the backyard yesterday and made the decision not to take the tarp cover.  We plan on using this on the Pelgrimspad in the Netherlands in places where there are no convenient hostels.  If it rains, we'll taxi to a hostel.  The tarp is just too heavy to deal with until we begin the Pelgrimspad.  If we get to Amsterdam and it's raining we will buy a tarp there.  I also take this tent because of my chemical sensitivities. If the sheets are too perfumed in the hotel, I can just pitch it in the yard and sleep without getting a migraine.

I've almost decided NOT to take my Pacer Poles this year. Just too many flights to have to worry about. Some airlines allow them, some don't. I can just buy a walking stick along the way. Not positive.. have to decide today for sure.

So.. I guess that's it. Today is a busy day tying up loose ends. Taking mom to get a fireplace insert and going to a street fair with her tonight.

I'm getting excited!
Are you?

Love,
Annie

James Michener's IBERIA - A Thirst For Adventure

For those of you who are contemplating walking the Camino, 

one book you may enjoy reading is James A. Michener's "IBERIA."

It will help you understand the character and history of the land you'll be walking,

and entertain you at the same time.

From the back cover:

"A dazzling panorama...one of the riches and most satisfying books about Spain in living memory." SATURDAY REVIEW

"A magnificent book, a noble pilgrimage." 

 BOOK OF THE MONTH CLUB NEWS

"From the glories of the prado to the loneliest stone villages... 

here is Spain, castle of old dreams and new realities."  

THE NEW YORK TIMES

"This book will make you fall in love with Spain."  

HOUSTON POST

While a student in Scotland, Michener worked as a chart boy 

aboard a Clydeside freighter which carried coal to Italy 

and brought back oranges from Spain. 

On his first trip, off Cabo Finisterre, 

he began aching to see Spain first hand.  

He rode a barge ashore at Burriana, 

and that was the beginning of his adventure. 

Michener fell in love with the country and its people.

He made several trips back to Spain up into the 1960's, 

and this book is the result of those travels.

Michener writes in beautiful detail about
what his experiences in Badajoz, Toledo, Cordoba, 

Las Marismas, Sevilla, Madrid, Salamanca, 

Pamplona, Barcelona, and Teruel.

The final chapter is a delightful look at Santiago de Compostela.

A master writer, Michener tells his stories in such vivid detail

 you can smell the heat rising from the dusty road.  

THE SATURDAY REVIEW says it best: 

 "A dazzling panorama... 

one of the richest and most satisfying books about Spain in living memory."

I highly recommend this book for anyone who is planning to walk the Camino. 

For those interested in knowing more about Michener,
this link has a short biography:
Michener Biography

If you'd like to walk the Camino
but aren't quite ready to do it alone,
see my website:

www.anniecarvalho.weebly.com

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe

Castrillo de los Polvazares; The Fascinating Maragatos and La Covada

Note:  I apologize to my readers. I mistakenly posted an unedited version of this blog yesterday. We caught the mistake today, and hopefully, all the errors.

Castrillo de los Polvazares  is a quaint town 
that is quite striking in the early morning or late evening sunlight.  
The village is preserved almost in its original state. 
All houses are built of stone. 

 

The cobblestone streets and red tiled roofs reflect the light and shadows, giving it an eerie and unique rosy golden appearance.

According to some sources, the name "Castrillo" comes from the closeness of the Castles of San Martino and Teso to the town.

The inhabitants of Castrillo were traditionally known as Maragatos.  There are several hypotheses concerning the origin of the name maragato. Some believe the word is derived from the Latin expression Capti mauri (captured Moors). Others say the Maragatos descended from the Berbers of North Africa who crossed into the Iberian peninsula with the first Moorish incursions in the early eighth century. This could be true, based on recent genetic studies.

Still other traditions suggest a relationship between the name maragato with King Mauregato, the famous Asturian king.

Rubio Laureano. Professor at University of Leon, argues the name originates from the days when they were famous as fish traders. They transported salted fish products from Galicia (the Sea – “mar”) to Madrid (Cats) on long mule trains, returning to their homeland with sausages and dry products. Thus, the name “of the sea to cats” which is reduced as maragato. 

These merchants traded with wine, fish, and many other goods. The transport of fresh fish to the royal families was carried out by the Maragato muleteers who made it possible for the fish to be in Madrid from Galicia in 4 days.

On the 20th of February 1367, because of their excellent work, Henry II declared them exempt from the payment of the Portazgo, a tax that all muleteers had to pay on arrival to a city of the kingdom. This attracted muleteers from other regions to establish themselves in Astorga and surroundings.

The Crown continued to give Maragato muleteers special treatment.  They were charged with the tax collection and the job of transporting goods arriving from the Indies from the port of entry to the Court. They charged double the price charged by other muleteers.  However, apparently, clients preferred the pay the extra cost for the security and trust that they inspired, as they were known for their honesty and fidelity. The Maragatos also ferried the monarch’s gold from place to place.  They were famous for defending the goods they were transporting with their life.

When the railroad grew at the end of the 19th century, the need for muleteers decreased and Maragatos became bar owners, sellers of overseas products, businessmen in Galicia or fishmongers in Madrid.

The Maragato houses, called "ant houses", were built on what were originally Roman ruins. They were structured to fit their trading activity.  The typical Maragato house has a large door-like gate that opens unto a central patio where the carriages and carts could be parked. The living room is on the top floor next to the bedrooms.

The town originally was in a different location. It was destroyed by a flood, and rebuilt in the 16^th century in its current location.

Culture

Unlike other converted Moors who blended into Spanish culture after the first expulsion of the Moors in 1492, the Maragatos have preserved their identity.

They were first recorded in the area in the 10th century. Like the Jews and gypsies, their reputation as traders and businessmen and their success has occasionally prompted jealousy.

"Yes, in the past people around here envied us," said Isabel Rodriguez, who runs an inn catering for Santiago pilgrims. "But all that has gone now - we have integrated."

Although they share their folklore, weddings and food with tourists, Maragatos have a protective and distrusting demeanour that few penetrate. They play down any differences with their neighbors. Endogamy was practiced among them, but it was practiced among many communities all over the world.  (Endogamy is the practice of marrying within a specific ethic group, class, or social group, rejecting others on such basis as being unsuitable for marriage or other close personal relationships.)

The national epic El Poema del Mio Cid, gives evidence that the Maragatos were entrusted by El Cid and the Court of King Alfonso VI of León, to transport the dowry for his daughters, and the riches gained from El Cid’s conquest of the Moors in Valencia and Alicante. One of the transfers involved more than 200 horses!

Three hundred years later, Maragatos were indispensable during the reign of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. They were commissioned by the Catholic Kings to transport munitions down through the rugged mountains to aid in the reconquest of Granada in 1492. In recognition of their contribution to the liberation of Christian Spain, one family was given the title of nobility and was known locally as the ‘Salvadores de Castrillo (Saviors from Castrillo)’. Salvadores is still their surname today.

The Maragatos traveled throughout northern Spain from Galicia to Navarra and Huesca trading wines, oil, dried goods, bacalau (salted cod) and other salted meats and fish.

Over time dried goods and particularly beans become the backbone of their enterprise, since they were easier to haul and store than salazones, and weighed far less than wines. The present company, El Maragato, is owned by decendents of these tough traders.

The Salvadore family patriarch says that they chose the name El Maragato for their business because it suggests honesty and evokes a sense of continuity. But most of all, the name was chosen because the Salvadores family is proud of their cultural and historical roots as full-blooded Maragatos. To demonstrate their commitment to their community, they include a beechwood spoon with many of the bags made by handicapped people in their village.

In The Bible in Spain, an account by 19^th century English linguist and traveler George Borrow about his travels in Spain —the author wrote the following:

“In a word, almost the entire commerce of nearly one half of Spain passes through the hands of the Maragatos, whose fidelity to their trust is such, that no one accustomed to employ them would hesitate to confide to them the transport of a ton of treasure from the sea of Biscay to Madrid; knowing well that it would not be their fault were it not delivered safe and undiminished, even of a grain, and that bold must be the thieves who would seek to wrest it from the far feared Maragatos, who would cling to it whilst they could stand, and would cover it with their bodies when they fell in the act of loading or discharging their long carbines.”

The main economic activity of people today is based on tourism and handicrafts. Its main tourist attractions are its typical architecture and cuisine.

FAVA BEANS

Fava beans are important to this culture, and I found the high value placed on fava beans to be interesting, as these giant beans are also important in the Portuguese culture. I remember slipping off the skins of the salted favas at every festa as a child.

The fabada beans grown for centuries in the neighboring kingdom of Asturias are legendary.  La Granja beans from Asturias are the crucial ingredient for authentic fabada – the bean and sausage stew which has been emblematic of the Asturias for over one thousand years.

What makes La Granja faba beans unique is that they have an uncanny ability to absorb the complex tastes that the chorizo and black sausage lend to the broth, in much the same way as Bomba rice absorbs the rich broth of a paella. When cooked, the beans double in size and have a unique buttery flavor and smooth texture.

Production of favas is extremely limited because they need to be planted and weeded by hand along the fertile valleys and riverbanks of Asturias. They take 150 days to mature, in contrast to ordinary beans, which take 90 days. They have to be hand-tied to the vines, hand husked, and then dried in raised stone barns, called hierras. As with many of the finest products of Spain, there is no substitute for individual attention – you need to follow centuries-old procedures.

Maragato Gastronomy.

The regional gastronomy attracts thousands of people every year with the special dish being the "Cocido maragato". Originally, this dish would feed the field workers in a single meal preparing them for a hard day of work. The ingredients of a Cocido Maragato are soup stock, cabbage, chickpeas, and seven types of meat. As mentioned before, the meal is eaten in a manner we would consider backwards. First you eat the meat, and then the soup. This tradition is thought to come from the Napoleonic troops who not knowing when they would have to go into battle, would begin with the meat, just in case.

Cocido Maragato is made with to 10 different kinds of meat: chorizo, pigs´ ear from the previous year's killing, chicken, bacon, smoked beef, shoulder of ham, knuckle, cow rib, bones and pig's tongue. Ther is a filling made of beaten eggs, a bit of chopped ham and chorizo, bread crumbs and garbanzos of the "pico de pardal" variety, small with a sharp end. The soup has thick noodles or country bread and it must be so thick that the spoons leaves a mark. 

It is usually followed by natural desserts like flan or maragaton roscon, a sweet bread filled with dried fruit.

Moragatan Folk Rituals

Several celebrations take place in the small village. At the end of July, the small village celebrates its Roman and Asturias heritage. La Fiesta de Santa Marta is similarly celebrated the last week of August. The spring rites have been compared to the Lupercalia of the Romans, where a man dressed as a goat chases women, hitting their behinds with a stick or whip, invoking fertility. 

Other Moragatan rituals that stand out the most are La Covada and La Boda. 

La Covada is a custom whereby the mother, during childbirth or immediately after, gives up the bed to the father. In many societies this custom reaffirms the role or the legitimacy of the father and it is associated with matriarchal societies.

The term "couvade" comes from the Latin expression cubare postpartum (post-partum bed rest) and alludes to the fact that the fathers stay in bed to get the attention generally given to women after childbirth. In French, it means “brooding” or “hatching.”

For some time before the birth, the husband is required to submit to a strict diet and to avoid hard work or the handling of weapons and tools, to abstain from hunting, smoking, and other amusements. After the birth, the mother is expected to get out of bed, and the father INTO the bed, where he is considered ill. He lies in bed for anywhere from four to forty days, and is fed as an invalid.

The first documented mention of this ritual comes from Apollonius of Rhodes, grammarian and director of the Library of Alexandria, who describes in his book The Argonauts, how men get into the bed after their wives give birth, and demand the same care as the new mother.  This is mentioned again by Diodorus of Sicily in the first century BC, again in 1275 by Marco Polo, and again by the preceptor of Louis XIV.

In 1818,  the notary JA Zamácola Vizcaya ensures that "she just gave birth, rose from the bed, while her husband got into it with the boy. "

In fact, Until the mid-twentieth century there have been found some form of couvade in Lapland, Borneo, England, France, Brazil, and Germany. Even in the United States in Alabama and South Carolina, the father’s hat was placed on the pillow of the mother’s bed. This surprised me, since in Portugal, a hat on the bed portends an argument or even death!

I wonder what THIS would mean???

In a database of the Anthropological and Ethnological Museum of Madrid collected during the 19^th century, there is evidence of this custom. In Ibiza "As soon as birth occurs, the husband gets into bed with his wife, drinking cups of broth like her, and placing the baby between the two." In Tamarite, Huesca, the neighbors invited to celebrate the birth approached the bed where the couple lay. The father placed his penis on a canvas and the neighbors all touched it, at the same time proclaiming their congratulations. Oooooh-kay?

There are many theories about the couvade; the expression of the magical physical link between father and son, an invention by the women to encourage the father to stay home to help her, or a search for balance between the masculine and feminine energies to fight evil, to share the pain of labor equally. Freud's theory of penis envy may explain why the man shows his penis to the neighbors. But really, the reason is lost to time.

If you are interested in learning more about couvade, there is an ebook you can find online called The Custom of Couvade by Warren Royal Dawson. Another interesting book on this topic is Birthing Fathers by Richard K. Reed.

The Boda or wedding rites of the Maragatos are beautiful.   From the day the engagement is announced, a trail of straw joins the couple's home, so that all the people can see.  This is most likely a blessing of fertility. 

The community organizes a choir to go and sing at the bride’s house, much like the Chivaree of the Appalacians in the United States.

In fact, the combination of the Couvade and the Chivaree customs make me believe there is a French connection.

The morning of the wedding a drummer goes round with the boys in town to warn everyone. They go from the house of the groom to the bride, beating the drum. 

While the groom's procession goes to church, the bride is helped to dress by the women of the village. The bride’s Godfather accompanies her to the church where her father solemnly blesses her.  The ceremony begins on the porch of the church, and then the priest ushers the wedding party inside. After vows are exchanged there is singing and fireworks. 

There is a parade displaying the marzipan or wedding cake. The cake is cut and the people carry the pieces home in cloth. It is traditional not to touch them until the following day. 

During the festivities, there is a “Bun Race.” The Godfather provides the prize. The race consists of passing a huge loaf of bread (shaped like a Maragato male) on a stick. Traditionally, the prize inside the bun was an ounce of gold. The race is followed by all-night dancing and a wedding breakfast.

Mitochondrial DNA analysis confirms that Maragatos from Spain are a genetically isolated group. Genetic distances between Maragatos and the comparison samples are significantly different even with the León sample which shares the same geographic area as the Maragatos. Although the North-African haplogroup U6 is present in them, their attributed Berber origin is weakened, as this haplogroup is also detected in surrounding populations with which, in addition, Maragatos have the smaller genetic distances. These U6 haplotypes are ascribed to a pre-historic African colonisation that influenced all the Iberian Peninsula. The presence of Neolithic haplogroups in this sample suggests that their isolation culture was not absolute until recent times.

If you have the time, the road to Castrillo is worth walking, especially at sunrise or sunset. The village has several nice albergues, all welcoming pilgrims on their way to Santiago.

If you'd like to walk the Camino
but aren't quite ready to do it alone,
see my website:

Anniewalkers Camino

for more information about

Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago 

and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe