To Los Arcos

2006

Joe tries the wine fount at Irache

We decided to walk the alternative route though Luquin. It was a hot day and we didn't feel like climbing. The route was nice, but there was no place to stop for food or water. The local bar in Luquín was closed. I've since walked this route two more times and like both this and the main route. This one has fewer pilgrims if you're looking for time alone, though it has more flies!

The view of Villamayor de Monjardín from Luquín

We spent the night in Los Arcos, staying in the Casa la Fuente, which was quite nice and well run.

2012
Spring Group

I arrived in Los Arcos after a 20 minute bus ride 
and 1,85 euros. 

It's bizarre feeling that what takes people 
5 to 8 hours to walk
takes only 20 minutes by bus.

 It gives me a whole new respect for ancestors
who traveled before automobiles or buggies!

Los Arcos is a pretty little town with a medieval feel. 

I was lucky to happen upon the morning marketplace 

and bought fresh fruit and veggies for today's meals. 

Pasta and vegetables will be a nice break 
from bocadillos!

The cherries are in season now

 and if you can find them at market
the price is much better than at the tiendas. 

They are very sweet and fresh.

I found wi-fi at Panaderia Ogipan
across the square from the church and fountain. 

I had to ask the barkeep for the password and it was no problem.

 The owner's husband at Casa de la Abuela 
took Brenda and I

for a tour down into the wine cellar. 

We learned that this nipple-like protrusion 
from the ceiling 

was where the wine flowed from the floor 
above
into the barrels below 

when they stomped the grapes!

It was very cool down here, despite the heat outside.

The Church in Los Arcos is beautiful 
and there was a funeral 

as well as a Pilgrim's Mass while we were here.

I got a much-needed haircut while waiting 

for la Casa de la Abuela to open. 

The name of the shop is Peluqueria Lau 

and it is right around the corner from the Albergue. 

She charged 9 euro for a very good haircut!!

Inside Casa de la Abuela

Having some refreshment after the long walk!

Some of the walkers stayed in Pension Mavi.

Some of us are staying at Casa de la Abuela
and it is a sweet albergue! 

8 euros will get you a bed
and for ,50 Sarah will do your laundry! 

The kitchen is well-equipped. 

There are 3 private double rooms here for 35 and 40 euros
and they are very nice! 

The rest of my walkers are at Pension Mavi,
another very nice pension. 

Both places have free wi-fi.

I just had a big bowl of chicken soup
and I'm off to bed for a siesta.
I'm feeling a bit better, 
but still weak
from the flu.

Tomorrow the group will share an apartment
 in Viana. 

And then we lose two walkers in Logrono.

I understand we may find a fiesta in Logrono so I suggest everyone gets a good night sleep tonight!

2012

Autumn Group

We left Estella before daylight,

taking the wooded path instead of the main Camino.

Having walked both ways,

this path feels much easier and is cooler in the heat.

Except for the pesky flies,

it's a great path.

But go prepared with food and water,

as there are no dependable bars on this route.

Look who we ran into on the trail!

It's PAM!

Happy as usual!

Up and over this hill is the route we avoided.

The sky had some very interested clouds today.

A lovely walk!

Joe taking a rest.

Another beautiful door!

This fountain is about halfway to Los Arcos

 in Luguin and was a good place to 

get water to drink, 

as well as to soak my hot, tired feet!

The last half of this day

was through hot, dusty wheat lands.

A few kilometers from town,

 I got a frantic call from two of the walkers,

saying I'd given them wrong information

and they couldn't find their hotel.

(They'd failed to read 
the latest email updates
 I sent everyone.)

They seemed so urgently in need,

I speeded up my walking

and got to town as quick as I could
so I could get them checked into their rooms.

Five hours later,

they were still sitting in the same place,

sipping their Sangria.

I guess it wasn't as important as it seemed.

And there, sitting with them,

was Patty.

And she looked like this:

I had to ask myself,

"WHY IS PATTY SMILING!?"

Because this is what her feet looked like!

OH MY GOSH!

We all had opinions about what she should do.

Pam suggested antibiotic ointment. 

Clare wasn't sure...

Judive suggested a hot water and salt soak... 

I decided she needed to see a doctor,

and found one nearby

thanks to the help from our wonderful Albergue owner

at Casa de la Abuela.

The doctor cleaned the infected toes, 

put betadine and antiseptic ointment on them, 

and bandaged them. 

A course of antibiotics 
and she can walk again in a few days. 

Whew!

2013

Walking Alone

It has been a chilly day in Los Arcos. I think the high today was 57. But I'm happy in one of my favorite Albergues, Case de la Abuela.

This place is bright, cheerful, and friendly. The cost is 9 euros. At this time you must make reservations, but the owner is reconsidering as he feels this is killing the spirit of the Camino. 

He serves a nice breakfast each morning for 3,50 euros. One of his regular specialties is this luscious homemade coffee cake. 

If he looks tired, it's because he and his wife have a new three month old baby. No explanation needed. :)

The last time I was in Los Arcos it was hot and all the pilgrims were sitting in the square having beers, Sangria, and tapas.

This is a different story. It is freezing outside! So many peregrinos are tucked into Panadaria Ogipan, drinking coffee and waiting for the Albergue to open. 

I sure hope the sun comes out soon.  

2014 
Autumn Group

Rain again today.

I took the highway the first bit. I've seen the fountain of wine many times and wanted to try to keep my feet dry as long as possible. Most of our group took the recommended route. The walking was perfect, even in the rain, as far as Villamayor de Monjardin. I just love walking in spring!  I cannot get enough of the wildflowers!

I stopped for a drying out rest at the Moorish Well. I've never seen it so full. It was the perfect place to get out of the rain, have a snack and do some reading. 

Gary and Jan took the forest route. The bar at Luquin was, surprisingly, open. I've never been that lucky. 

Lots of wet, muddy pilgrims in Casa de la Abuela tonight, but all are smiling. Some even braved the chilly breeze for Sangria in the Square. Others attended the 8 pm mass. 

My 'Just One Thing' instructed me to 'get more sleep.'  I laid down for a quick nap at 7 pm and woke up two hours later. Yesterday i laid down at 7 and slept until 6 this morning. I seem to be sleeping a lot the last few days. It feels good. My body must be processing all this exercise!

Looks like tomorrow we may get some sunshine. I'm ready!

On to Viana!

Ultreia!

The Moorish Well was fuller than I've ever seen it!

Patatas Bravas and Sangria

Gorgeous skies!

2015

Joe's Group - Autumn

Yesterday, 

the Peregrinas and Joe walked to Los Arcos, 

where they had private rooms 

at La Casa de la Abuela. 

It was a good walk. 

The temperature was cool, a bit windy, but dry.

On the way, they passed Irache 

and took the opportunity 

to fill their bottles with wine!

Below are a few photos of Gretchen. 

Sharon, and Janet 

at the Wine Fountain at Irache.

Pat and Kristen left too early to drink from it.

And here is the path they walked. 

They chose to go the alternative path 

through Loquin.

Below are a couple of photos 

of the reliquaries taken in 

the Church of S. Maria in Los Arcos. 

We have never seen these open before.

Today, the group continued on to Viana,

then took a bus to Logroño,

where they'll enjoy the best tapas in Spain tonight!

Enjoy the tapas, ladies,

and have a grilled mushroom for me!

Meanwhile, next morning...

Ahhh.... I missed having some of this lovely cake 

baked each morning at La Casa de Abuela, 

but Sharon had some for me!

To read about the 2018 walk to Los Arcos,
click on this link:
Los Arcos 2018 Walk

See you soon!
Annie

How Long Does it Take to Walk the Camino Frances

Many people ask me, 

"How long does it take to walk the Camino?"

My answer is always,"Well, that depends..."

It depends on many things.  First, I'll give you some information, then some questions to ask yourself.

The Camino de Santiago is approximately 

800 kilometers long. 

That's close to 500 miles.  

It has been broken down 

into walkable stages (called etapas) 

by various guidebook companies.  

The general agreement is there are 31 stages.  

The stages vary between 20 and 31 kilometers 

(12 and 19 miles).

Some are flat. 

Some are rolling hills. 

A few can be daunting.

So, 31 stages would mean 31 days of walking. 

But that's if you just rush through, walking, walking, 

and not stopping to see the sites!

There are so many things to see, and if you're in Spain, 

why not see them while you're there?

I usually give myself 60 days 

if I'm walking the Camino Frances, carrying my pack.

Those 31 stages aren't set in stone! 

Along each stage are many options

 for stopping and sleeping. 

Personally, I like stopping "between the stages" 

to get out of the big wave of pilgrims 

who are sticking to the guidebooks!

You can break the Camino up 

into however many stages 

you are comfortable walking!

So ask yourself these questions when doing your planning:

How Many Kilometers/Miles Can You Comfortably Walk?

Me, on my first  Camino.
Sometimes you just have to stop and rest,
no matter where you are!

I say "comfortably" because a lot of people push their bodies WAY beyond what is comfortable and end up with injuries like blisters or shin splints that stop their trek in its tracks. Most people have wonderful intentions about training for the Camino, but life gets in the way, and they find themselves starting out with little, if any, training under their belt. They end up training ON the Camino. 

And that's ok!  Really!  You can do it this way - 

you just need to give yourself a few extra days.

Do this: put about 10% of your body weight into a backpack and go take a hike. How far can you walk without being exhausted? This is the mileage I'd stick to for the first few days on the Camino, slowly increasing my distance each day.

If you are beginning in St. Jean Pied de Port  (SJPP) I strongly suggest you take the first etapa from SJPP to Roncesvalles in TWO days. That walk from SJPP to Orisson is only 8 kilometers. To Borda is 9 kilometers. 

But they don't call it "Hell Day" for nothing!  

It is extremely steep!  

If you are used to hiking 

and carrying a heavy pack 

and you're in excellent condition, 

you'll have no problem making it to Roncesvalles. 

But if you're in the shape most of us are in, 

stop at Orisson or Borda the first day.  

It's possible to get reservations at each for the night, but beds are limited. If you cannot get a bed, simply walk or taxi back to SJPP for a 2nd night, then taxi back up to Orisson in the morning to continue over the mountain.

The second day into Roncesvalles (13k) 

is a STEEP downhill walk. 

If it's been raining or snowing, it can be treacherously slippery. The beech leaves make it like an ice rink!  

If you have attempted to walk the entire stage, and are already exhausted, you're in for trouble.

When it's raining and slippery,

I take the road.

It's just as beautiful a walk,

and there is less chance of injury.

The third day, most people walk all the way to Zubiri (22.2k). Again, the descent into Zubiri is steep and slippery. In the past two years, very deep, close-together crevices have cut up the trail. You really have to watch your step or take the chance of breaking a leg or an ankle. There are several options along the route for shorter distance. Viskarret (also called Biskaretta and Gerendiain) is one at about 12k.  

From there, the 4th day, you could continue on to Zubiri.
(Or you could taxi to Zubiri from Viskarret.)

The next day, head to Trinidad de Arre or Pamplona.

If you are beginning in another city,

do the same thing.

Plan to walk half-stages for the first few days,

slowly increasing your distance,

until you are walking as far as you'd like each day.

This is a good way to work up to walking full stages.

You have not injured yourself.

You've figured out how much of your heavy pack

 you can discard.

And you know the ropes.

From this point, if you are booking lodging, 

you can plan your trip based on 20-30k days.

If you are staying in albergues, 

you can just walk until you're tired, and stop.

* * *

I once passed a woman on the Camino, 

who was morbidly obese.

I asked her, "How you doing?"

She replied, "I'm ok.
I asked, "How far you going?"

She told me she would walk as far as she could,

then stop. 

She realized she was handicapped 

by her weight

and didn't want to have a heart attack,

but she WAS going to walk the Camino!

She began just walking 5-7 kilometers per day,

and slowly increased her distance.

I ran into her in Santiago a couple of months later.

She had made it all the way,

walking full stages after a few weeks.

And she had lost an incredible amount of weight.

She looked and felt great!

* * *

There is no rule about where you should begin your Camino. The only rule on the Camino Frances is if you want to collect the Compostela, you must walk from Sarria to Santiago. So you have a lot of great choices. Here are some of my favorites:

St. Jean Pied de Port - A lot of people like to begin here. Many people believe this is the 'traditional' starting place, but it is not. The traditional starting place is your front door!  However, that said, SJPP is a lovely village and a fun place to start. What it means, though, is you will have to walk over a big steep hill in the Pyrenees and take a chance of being injured. If the weather is clear, it will be one of the most spectacular days of your life. If it's foggy, it can be one of the worst. Getting there is easy during the season from May to end of September. You can catch a bus directly from the Madrid airport to SJPP. (The bus does go via Pamplona these days. ) Or you can catch a bus directly from Madrid airport to Pamplona, rest a day or two, then bus or taxi to SJPP. Or you can fly into Paris and take a train. I've done all three and I prefer going from Madrid to Pamplona to SJPP.

Roncesvalles - This is a more traditional starting place and you avoid the big mountain crossing. It's a wonderful place to begin your Camino. You can take a bus from the Madrid airport to Pamplona, then a bus from Pamplona to Roncesvalles.

Sarria - If you only have a couple of weeks, you can walk from Sarria and get the Compostela. Only 5 stages, give yourself a day or two at each end for a more relaxed Camino. To do this, I would fly into Santiago, then take a bus (or taxi) to Sarria to begin. 

It's only 70 miles and a 1.5 hour bus ride.

Madrid - Fly into Madrid and just start walking!  The Madrid route is easy to follow, and is more like what the Camino was 10 years ago before it got so busy. Be prepared for culture shock, however, once you reach Sahagun, where the Madrid route joins up to the Camino Frances and you are suddenly in a herd of pilgrims!

Other places to begin include any of the larger cities where you can fly or bus in; Burgos, Logrono, Leon.

What Would You Like to See?

There are so many wonderful sites to see 

along the Camino!  

Every day you will pass villages and churches, including some very tiny ones. Stop and peek in. I have seen art in some of those tiny churches that is just as spectacular as anything I've seen in the Louvre or British Museum.  Places I would suggest stopping for an extra day are:

Pamplona.

I like to fly into Madrid, then take a bus directly from the airport to Pamplona. I am flying from the west coast of the USA, so the time change is hard on me. I give myself two full days in Pamplona to adjust to the time change and to see the Old Town. Then, when I'm walking the Camino and the herd is stopping in Pamplona, I can just walk on through.

There is a LOT to see in Pamplona; the cool drawbridge you walk into the city on, the city walls, the parks, the Cathedrals and many other beautiful churches, and the Museu Navarra. I would say if you only have time for one, to be sure to visit the Museu Navarra. It is a small museum, but a lovely one, and if you show your Credential, you'll get a nice discount. I believe the museum is free on Sundays. You can check their website to be sure.

If you are lucky, you may pass a festival and see the fantastic GIGANTES!

Also, there are many wonderful places for tapas in Pamplona. 

You can pick up last minute items you need 

at the China shop (like a dollar store) 

or at the pilgrim shop Caminoteca.

And remember, 

many tourist attractions are CLOSED on Mondays 

in Spain. 

That will be the rule all along the Camino, 

so plan accordingly.

* * *

Burgos.  

In Burgos there are two main attractions. First is the Burgos Cathedral. It is magnificent! And even if you aren't Catholic, you should take time to see it. The art is unbelievable! I once spent 8 hours inside. Tip: there are no toilets inside, but if you really have to go, ask the people at reception. They will usually let you out to find a bar, then let you back in.

The second attraction in Burgos is the Museum of Human Evolution. This is a world class museum. And if you arrive early enough in the morning you can catch a ride out to the dig site at Atapuerca for a small fee. 

* * *

Leon

I love spending a day in Leon. The Cathedral and Cathedral Museum there are worth visiting. The architecture, the stained glass, the treaures, all are really something to see! And if you enjoy churches, the Basilica of San Isidoro is another favorite. There, you can usually attend a 7:00 pm Pilgrim Mass on most nights. Check the door for current times.  Leon is a hub of activity. Find a seat outside, have a drink, and watch the pilgrims go by. Order some churros and chocolate. Explore the back streets of the old part of the city - find a local restaurant (not a tourist one) and have a wonderful meal!  You can find an inexpensive private room in Leon on booking.com

* * *

Astorga

I always stop in Astorga on our group trips so people have the opportunity to see the Episcopal Palace designed by Gaudi. I can't begin to tell you how beautiful it is inside. It remind me of a castle in a fairy tale. Definitely worth a visit. Also in Astorga is the funny little Museum of Chocolate. Tiny, and almost silly, but with a very cool vintage film that shows how chocolate is made. For the 2 euro entrance fee, you can't go wrong. For lodging in Astorga, if I'm walking without a group, I stay at the municipal albergue, which I've always found 

to be clean and affordable. 

DO NOT stay at San Javier!!!  It has been a haven for bedbugs for many years and the management apparently does not care. Until they get new owners, 

I would avoid it at all cost.

 * * *

Santiago

Santiago deserves a 2 or 3 day stay, in my opinion.  There is a lot to see and do there. The Cathedral, of course, is important. And if you're lucky, you will see the Botafumiero swing! There is a fantastic cultural (folklorico) museum there called Pobo Gallego, an open market, great food and shopping, and many other things to see. Wander out of old town into the newer city if you're looking for good deals on clothing and shoes - get away from the tourist trap. 

* * *

Finisterra and Muxia

By now you will have made many friends on the Camino, and my best advice for seeing Finisterra and Muxia if you are not walking there is to share a taxi. The taxi stand is right next to the San Martin Pinario building (across from the Cathedral). There, you can negotiate a taxi to pick you up early in the morning, drive you to Finisterra and wait while you poke around, drive you to Muxia and wait while you have lunch, then drive you back to Santiago. If 4 people go, it's often less than you will pay 

for a bus ticket to/from Finisterra alone, 

and you'll be going on your own schedule.

Ok... so those are the sites you might enjoy seeing, and places you might take rest days.

So, add those days into your walking schedule.

Must You Walk Every Step?

Some people believe you must walk every step of the way from SJPP to Santiago. 

This is not true. 

There are no rules like that.

 The only "rule" is if you want to collect the Catholic Compostela, you must walk every step for the last 100 kilometers, which is from Sarria to Santiago on the Camino Frances.

There are many opportunities to bus or taxi between villages, and it's fine to do so if that's what fits your schedule. Of course, it's easier to catch a bus in a larger city. But many of the smaller villages have bus service as well. Almost always, the people at the albergue will know the bus schedule if there is one.  In my experience, bus is simpler and more available than train along the Camino. And you can buy your ticket directly from the bus driver in the smaller villages. Don't bother buying tickets before you leave home - just get them in Spain. 

If you DO plan any train travel, and you are over 60, you can get a Tarjeta Dorada (Gold Card) which will give you some fantastic discounts up to 50% off. I use this when I travel BACK to Madrid from Santiago. That trip is important to book ahead - I would book it the first chance I got when I arrived in Spain, either in Madrid or Pamplona or somewhere at the beginning of the trip. If you wait until you arrive in Santiago, you may find the train full. Cost in the past has been around 50-60 euros.

Anyway, if you only have 3 or 4 weeks, skip some sections!  Skip the Meseta. I have a love/hate relationship with that section of the Camino. It is long, flat, and boring. There is (literally) nothing to see. Not a tree. Not a building between villages. On the other had, it's a great place for reflection and prayer. But if you must skip something, skip the Meseta is my advice.

How Much Do You Have to Spend?

What is your budget?

How long you walk will depend 

on how much money you have to spend. 

The Camino is not expensive at all, in my opinion.  Once I am there, I get by very comfortably on 20 euros per day if I am staying in albergues. That includes my one nice meal a day plus coffee and drinks along the route.

If I am booking private lodging of course, it is more.  For private lodging I pay anywhere from 20 to 65 euros per night for two people. It just depends on where you are along the route. If you do plan on booking private lodging, I'd budget an extra 40 euros per night to be safe. 

It is possible, if you know your walking schedule, to book your lodging ahead of time and know your budget. That takes some research and time, however, and most people don't bother.

* * *

So there you have it

These are the first questions you should ask yourself when you're planning your trip.

Once you've answered, you should have a better idea of how long you can afford to walk.

There are many good websites that will help you plan.

Here are a couple of my favorites:

EROSKI

GODESALCO

and of course there is gronze.com

And remember, if you don't want to mess with all this, you can let ME do the planning!

Consider walking with one of our small groups of 6-8 pilgrims and having your double private lodging booked for you each night.  This year we have a 24 day trek from SJPP to Santiago planned and we still have some spots open. 

We operate out of Dallas, Oregon, in the United States, and we have lots of experience on the Camino.

Come walk with us!

And have a Buen Camino!

Anniewalkers Camino