San Anton closed?

I stopped at San Anton today hoping to get a bed. The gates were locked tight. I waited an hour then gave up and walked to Castrojerez. Not sure if they just open late or if they're closed. 

I got a pilgrim room at the Hostal Jacobus. 15 euros ensuite with 4 beds. And a BATHTUB! 

I originally was going to stay at the municipal albergue but their doors were locked until 3 pm and I wasn't waiting that long. This only put me 5 euros over budget so I'm pretty happy. 

I got my laundry done and had a nice dinner. Now it's siesta time  Zzzzzzz!

Tomorrow I may try to stay at San Nicholas. 

Pilgrim friends putting their petitions at San Anton

More San Bol Photos

Lovely place. No electricity except for one hour at 6 pm when the generator was turned on to charge phones.

Museum of Evolution Burgos

If you are at all interested in archaeology this museum is a must-see. 

Situated in the center of Burgos in a building created by Juan Navarro Baldeweg, it is a light-filled transparent cube that beckons visitors to come inside and learn about human evolution. 

If you are lucky you will catch the bus there to the dig site of Atapuerca, where the oldest human remains in Spain gave been found. 

I easily spent two hours here and would return in an instant. A great museum that is interactive as well as informative and fascinating. 

My few iPhone photos do not do it justice. I will post better photos from home. You can also Google it. Museu de la Evolucion Humana in Burgos. 

2013 Admission for pilgrims with a credential is 4 euros for the museum and 9 euros total if you would like the bus ride to Atapuerca. 

Please note they are closed on Monday and there is only one bus at 10:30 am on Sundays. The rest of the week there are several morning buses. 

Four fantastic floors. 

More San Bol Photos

I was happy to walk PAST Hornillos (bedbug city!)

and on to San Bol.

San Bol is a lovely place

with a friendly hospitalero. 

There is no electricity except for one hour at 6 pm 

when the generator was turned on to charge phones. 

There is a pretty place here where you can sit 

and soak your tired feet in the Agua Vida. 

Two locals came to collect water this afternoon.

 I could see that gifts were left.

This is a Holy Spring, 

known for its healing powers. 

The family style dinner was cooked

by the hospitalero 

and we all enjoyed a very peaceful sleep.

Perfection!

The Sacred Spring

MMMMmmmmmm… Paella!

Good Night!

To San Bol

Another spectacular walk!  

I'm running out of adjectives.

I did about 27 kilometers today from Burgos to San Bol. I stopped at Hornillos, exhausted, thinking I might take a chance and stay there since the weather has been cold and bedbugs haven't hatched yet. But after a quick look, I realized these are the same old bug-ridden beds and I didn't want to take the chance if carrying eggs on or in my sleeping bag.

So I stopped and had a salad and then trudged on, praying San Bol would have a bed. 

They did

And a heated floor!

No electricity. Bed is 5 euros. Dinner is 7 euros and we all eat together. This is not the old hippy joint of the past. It is exceptionally clean, with good hot showers and scenery that is almost ethereal. 

I'm exhausted but happy. 

Tomorrow I may do a short day to San Anton for old times sake. 

I have this weird blood blister on my right heel. It is from where my insert meets my shoe. Must be pinching. It is very tiny but deep and painful and I haven't been able to completely drain it. I got antibiotic cream in Burgos so I will try again after my shower. I hope I can lance the darned thing. It's that pain when you have a splinter and have to walk on it. Ouch!

See tomorrow's blog for more photos of San Bol.

Burgos Fiesta

Today they had a big Mass in the square in front of Burgos Cathedral. 

All the kids having their First Communion were there 

and there was a big parade in the street. 

Unfortunately I missed it. 

I was at the Museum of Evolution. 

But I managed to get in on the tail end of the dancing Gigantes

 and tapas they were serving. 

And I ran into mi amiga, Irma!

I ran into Sandra and Irma. Irma was having patatas bravas. We call these French fries with sauce. 

The tapas were great and how about that Soanish Bacon!?  Yum!  I think I'll grab a piece for my walk tomorrow. 

Making Friends in Burgos

While I was waiting to check into my Burgos Hotel, another pilgrim arrived looking for a room for one night. We chatted and I offered her one of the twin beds in my double room AFTER asking "Do you snore??"

She assured me she was not a roncadora, so we shook hands and made a deal. She paid one half of last night's room, which means I'm not quite so over-budget for these two days in Burgos. It really helped out. 

On top of that, she turned out to be delightful company, listening to my life-stories and laughing about our various circumstances.  

She is a Theosophist, which was a fine surprise!  Little does she know how much we have in common. I will share more with her about that topic if we keep in touch. But it made me smile. 

She has promised to visit me in the desert and now I have someone to visit in Amsterdam who will enjoy the Ritman Library as much as I. Hooray!

When I first saw my 'luxury' room (as it was advertised) I was a bit downhearted. But this little pixi-ish peregrina quickly raised my spirits with her bright smile and positive attitude. 

Camino angels come in all shapes, sizes, and sexes. She is another Camino angel!

Her name is Sandra . She is from Netherlands and is the beauty on the right. The other beautiful pilgrim is Irma. I met her in Azofra and we continue to run into each other, as it goes on the Camino

We had a big breakfast this morning of eggs, FIVE pieces of bacon, bread, and coffee. Then we parted to go our own way. They will bus ahead to Leon tomorrow. I will walk the Meseta. I hope to meet them again up ahead. 

Buen Camino, Peregrinas!

I really enjoyed your company!

Four Cantones in Belorado

I stayed at Four Cantones Albergue in Belorado. A pretty place with all amenities for 6 euros per night.

This morning I bussed to Burgos. Saw the Cathedral today. Tomorrow is the Atapuerca dig site where they've found the oldest human remains in Europe. 

Outside my window is a little man playing accordion. Feels like Paris. The weather is still cold but I do see blue sky!

I walk again Monday. 

The Meseta. 

I'm hoping the pilgrims thin out. 

Many skip this section

The sun is supposed to finally shine. 

Summer is a cumin' in!

Lets hope that weatherman is correct! 

Into Belorado

I'm not sure why the Camino diverts into Viloria because there is absolutely nothing there to see or do. The albergue is open according to the Internet but when I called about reservations I was simply told it was impossible. Not completo. Not cerrado. Just 'impossible' and it appeared to be shut up tight. 

Anyway, a person could save two k by walking the road because the Camino veeeeeers to the left through Viloria the veeeeers back to the road. It's nuts. 

The walk today is pretty but almost all is next to busy highway. 

I love the way they train the trees here to make arbors (arboles, get it?). And that light in the other photo?  It's what we are walking toward -Burgos!

Tomorrow I bus to Burgos for two days and hopefully will find some sunshine. I feel like missing the climb in this cold rain. Also, I want to see the museum again and this time will hopefully catch the bus to Atapuerca to see the dig site. 

Then, onto the meseta!