Santiago Seafood

The seafood you see along the main restaurant street in Santiago is enticing. Displayed so all you have to do is point and choose, it's quite a tourist attraction. 

But the truth is, you can take a train to Muxia or a bus to Finisterre and eat seafood while you watch the waves breaking on the shore for about the same  price you will pay in Santiago for your dinner!

Inside Santiago Cathedral

This is another post for Vonda, my cousin.  

When pilgrims arrive in Santiago, they have certain rituals they perform at the Cathedral. 

One is to simply stand out in the giant square and look up at the Cathedral, thankful you have arrived alive after your six week journey. Some pilgrims fall to their knees. Some lie on their backs and just look up. Some sit in a circle of friends. There is back slapping and joyous laughter and often, tears. 

Next, in the past, the pilgrim would enter the Cathedral and beneath the Portico de la Gloria (Google it) they would place their fingers in the depressions on the Tree of Jesse pillar. The Portico was created over a twenty year period by the master sculptor, Mateo, who finished it in 1188. 

The depressions have been worn into the stone pillar by thousands of pilgrims over the years. 

As they touched the pillar, they repeated the prayer or petition that brought them on the pilgrimage to begin with. 

Next, they would walk around to the other side of the pillar and would touch their forehead or 'knock heads' with the statue of Mateo three times. This was supposed to give them some of the Master's wisdom!

I have been lucky enough to have done these rituals before the area was roped off to protect it. Pilgrims are no longer allowed to touch the pillar or knock heads with Mateo. They can only stand behind a rope, look and take photos. 

After this, the pilgrim gets in line to walk up some ancient stone steps that lead behind the altar to the gilded statue of St James. More New World gold and silver! 

Once there, they give him a hug, thanking him for a safe journey. When you are up there hugging the huge statue, you can see the people down on the floor of the cathedral. It's the strangest feeling!

A green light indicates when the entrance is open and a red light marks the exit. 

Next, you visit the saint's casket under the floor of the cathedral. Supposedly, the remains of the Apostle James are there. But again, if you Google the history, it's doubtful. Even so, everyone goes to the crypt where his (or someones) relics (bones) are kept in a beautiful silver casket. 

Last, you attend a pilgrim mass. If you  are lucky you will see the huge botafumeiro (incense burner) swing. I think I have an entire blog post on this a year ago. 

You can see Martin Sheen performing these traditions in the movie, The Way, which is worth watching if you haven't seen it. 

The statue of St James Matamoros (the Moor Killer) is purposefully covered with flowers on the bottom these days so you can't see the dead Moslems. I've added a photo of what the statue looks like without the flowers. That statue is in a church near the coast. I wonder why they feel they must cover it up?  It's a part of their history and everyone knows what's down there?

Photos of Santiago Cathedral

Following are photos I took this morning for my cousin, Vonda. She wondered why I hadn't been posting. I was surprised and pleased to know she was following my blog!

So here you go, outside first. Once I'm home I can caption them, but my iPhone won't allow it.

You also would be shocked at the beggars sitting outside every door if the Cathedral!  

Do a Google search on the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral for interesting history. Or it might be in an earlier blog from a few years back.   I will add it once I'm home and don't have to type with one thumb.  :)

Hospederia San Martin Pinario

I decided to spend my last night in Santiago at San Martin Pinario, the monastery which has become a favorite of mine.

Built for Benedictine monks, construction began in the late 1500's and took over 200 years to conclude. 

Elegantly simple, I've attached photos beginning with the entrance. Notice the yellow arrow?  That is the first thing to catch a pilgrim's eye, we are so used to looking for them to guide our way along the Camino. 

Next, I took photos of walking down the hall, and included are photos of my monk cell room. Each room has a tiny but sufficient bathroom with toilet (complete with pull-chain flush, sink, and shower). 

Price for a pilgrim room is 24 euros and that includes a large buffet breakfast making this the best deal in town. Wifi is free in the comedor and you can purchase computer time if you didn't bring electronics. 

Regular rooms run 45 for a single and 60 for a double. They are larger and more luxurious. 

Another Transition

Two mornings ago, a bird came to my window and tried to get in. 

In my family this is an omen of death and whether you believe in omens or not, it is very real to us. We are a superstitious lot in many ways. 

I emailed my ex and asked him to please call my mother to be sure she was alright. I was also worried about my 96 year old aunt. He emailed back that all was well at home and the bird made a mistake. 

I haven't rested easy. The bird isn't frivolous. It doesn't make mistakes. 

I just received the sad news this morning that my sister in law, Pinky, is in the Hospital and they do not believe that she will last another 24 hours. 

Prayers and energy for an easy transition are requested. 

Also, please send her daughter Siobhan and son Jared energy to deal with their mother's transition. 

This has been a difficult Camino for me on so many levels. First Methodist Pilgrim, now Pinky. 

Birth and death. Joy and sadness. Tranquility and frustration. Change.  All are a part of this adventure we call Life. 

It's difficult being so far away when the family needs you. I'm torn. I'm weary. I'm sad. I'm struggling. 

Maybe it's time to stay home for a while. 

I love you, Pinky!  

You are one strong red-headed wonder!  What fun we have had!  We've raised some hell and had some good laughs!  Remember all those May dances? Bonfires at Panorama? Getting my tattoo? 

Siobhan's Fairy Godmothers will help her. Don't worry. She will be fine. So will Jared. I'm sorry you didn't get to see your newest grandbaby. 

Now get on that boat and cross that river!  I'm lighting candles all day to help you find your way. I will even pay the boatman! 

May you have peace, and freedom, and reunion with Adele, Gwen, Pat, Juliana and all those others who have gone on before. 

Go gently, Lady. 

Arzua

Today's 14 kilometer walk was difficult for me.

 I didn't get much sleep again last night. There were about 5 people in the dorm competing for 'Loudest Snoring in the World' Award!!  I had my super duper  earplugs in and it sounded like a bunch of chainsaws were in the room. This was around midnight. I realize people snore. I've been told I snore. But that doesn't change the fact that I can't sleep when people are loudly snoring. 

So, I spent 4 hours on the short leather couch in the sala. Then I was awakened at 4:45 am by the notorious night-walking zombie-pilgrims turning on the overhead lights. It's difficult for me to be cheerful at 4:45 am.  I may have even growled at them. 

My primary caretaker was my grandfather. He loved loved tent camping and I grew up tent camping a lot!  But a day came when he decided the only way he would camp was in an RV with His 'own room.'

I think I'm at that point in life where I need my own room. I need quiet, dark, and cold to sleep and that's just a fact I'm facing this Camino. 

I got a private room again tonight and have one booked tomorrow as well as in Santiago. I will make it to Santiago, but on my own terms. And that's ok with me. 

I had one reader tell me I was whining and being negative. But you know what?  People need honesty about the Camino. 

This is not a cake walk!  Sure, it is spiritual, wonderful, and life changing. But it is also as bad as the worst day you can imagine. It's dirty, and cold, and hot, and wet, and often painful physically and emotionally, and it is one of most difficult  things you will ever do in your life. 

So no sugar coating here. 

Sorry. 

It is what it is. 

And each person has their own personal experience. 

My budget is screeching. I didn't factor in all these private rooms. But hey, you only live once. I will try to make it up when I take care of Little Fox House while Tracy takes a well-deserved break. 

Below are a few photos. Today's walk had some hill climbing but I think they felt more steep due to my weariness. 

The stained glass window is in the little church in Boente. Be sure to stop there for a sello. 

The fuzzy thing is a seed from a eucalyptus tree. I've never seen one with the flower it was really interesting. 

One photo is of my dinner here at the Casa Teodora. It was spareribs and potatoes and it was so good, I almost cried. 

Father Jeff, remember the meal you and Lottie and Pam and I had in Arco?  It was that good!  It was followed by cheeeeeesecake. So much for walking off today's calories!  I ate the cake before I thought to take a photo. But it was as pretty as it was delicious!

Now for a :::drumroll::: B.A.T.H.!

With all the hot water I need to fill it up!

Tomorrow, Arco and Pension Maribel. 

After a good night's rest ...

Ciao!