To Cigunuela

May 13, 2014

The walk to Simancas and then to Cingunuela was another treat for the soul. 

I feel like a broken record but it really was majestic. 

By early morning, the sun was beating down

Castle walls

Simancas has a beautiful castle, several bars, and at least one bank. 

There is free wifi at the biblioteca. 

The password is the name of the village,

and you can sit outside and get wifi 

if the doors are locked.

The police were very helpful when I needed info 

about a train to Pamplona from Sahagun. 

I met an American woman in Puente Duero 

who said she just couldn't walk through one more wheat field. 

It's hard for me to understand her boredom 

because every day on this route has made my heart sing!  

Even the one bad day was good. 

In Oregon, there is a shade of green for every letter of the alphabet, 

but I still can't get enough green.

 And this walk in May has been a painter or photographer's dream. 

The white church tower of Cigunuela 

could be seen within a kilometer or two of leaving Simancas. 

It reminded me of when I was a little girl in Central California. 

On hot summer days, riding in the pickup with my grandfather, 

I would see water ahead on the road. 

But as soon as we would get to that spot, 

the water would move further ahead. 

My grandpa got a kick out of telling me 

the puddles were drying up and the rain cloud was moving fast ahead of us. 

It was a mirage, of course, 

but it kept me constantly entertained.  

The white steeple felt like those puddles. 

The closer I got, the further it would move. 

The walk felt longer than 6 kilometers, 

but the scenery made it very enjoyable. 

I haven't seen blue skies like these since I was a child!

In Cigunuela we ate a pilgrim menu 

at a restaurant called Meson Mielga. 

The restaurant is up a road to the left as you approach the main square. 

It's past the bar up the hill on the left across from the church. 

10 euros.   

Joe had some type of really spicy HOT cabbage dish for starters 

and I had a nice cold ensalada mixta. 

Next came a pork shoulder for Joe and fried cod for me. 

I'm telling you, 

Menu del Dia is a much better value

than the Menu del Peregrino

served to pilgrims.

If you want nice helpings,

eat before 2 pm.

We finished with flan!

Our waitress kindly told us how to find the albergue. 

Our friendly waitress.

The wonderful albergue was 3 euros. 

Clean with kitchen and hot showers. 

You cannot miss it. 

The door handle shakes hands with you...literally!  

You pick up the key at #24 on the same street. 

We were the only two pilgrims here.

 I am at the bus stop now detouring to Valladolid. 

The bus arrives sometime between 10 and 10:30 am. 

I must meet my group soon in Pamona 

and am having difficulty getting a clear answer 

about bus/train service ahead.

 So I've decided to make the sure decision, 

visit Villadolid, and bus/train from there. 

Another Camino I will return to finish, 

probably next year. 

Joe has gone ahead to Wamba. 

He will finish and will meet me in Pamplona later. 

It has been a joy and I'm sad to leave this route. 

But I can't take the chance of not getting to Pamplona on time.   

Here are a few more photos. 

To Puente Duero

Notice! 

Got lost today. So pay attention. 

We began early because of the heat,

and it was actually cold first thing this morning

so I was all wrapped up and sleepy eyed.

We stopped after an hour or two for breakfast.

The sun was beginning to warm our bones.

The walking was gorgeous...

We stopped by a riverside for lunch.

Soon we were in Valdestillas.

The walk through town was nice,

and we found a bar, where we had a cold beer.

This mosaic tiled house was pretty

Ok.. see this bride?

Pay attention.

When you cross this bridge, wake up!

When you come out of Valdestillas, after you pass the train station,

after you cross the bridge, 

DO NOT cross over the highway to the right and 

do not walk directly into or around the forest!!! 

You will see yellow flechas.

Those yellow flechas are wrong!   

There is one milario 

with a very clear flecha on it leading into the forest. 

DO NOT FOLLOW THAT PATH!

There is a tree with an old faded fletcha 

indicating a path circling the forest to the left. 

DO NOT FOLLOW THAT PATH!

Instead, look for flechas along the carretera. 

We walked about 6-8k out of our way yesterday.

 My poor feet were battered!

When we stopped at a bar along the highway for a cold drink, 

we were so hungry, 

we ate the pinchos before tempering to take a photo !  

Oh, it was good!  

A seafood salad. 

An excellent seafood salad

The Albergue at Puente Duero is another good albergue. 

Donativo. 

A lovely garden area where pilgrims can pick their own salad. 

Our hospitalero, Arturo, was friendly and helpful. 

No wifi. 

Two small markets and a cash machine. 

Be prepared to walk a bit to the market.

Pick your own salad.

The rooms were tiny and beds were close together,
but it was a lovely albergue!

To Alcazarén

May 11, 2014

We tried to leave a little earlier this morning 

and managed to be walking by 7 am. 

The way was once again beautiful. 

The first 2 kilometers passed through plowed fields.

 Soon we were again walking through the piñares. 

ALERT!  When you come out of the forest you will be at a crossroads. Some arrows say go straight, and some say go right. 

Either route will get you to Alcazarén. 

If you go straight, you will walk in the hot sun. 

If you turn right, you will walk on the roadside about 1/4 k and the will turn off to the left. You will cross a bridge then have a wonderful, shady walk through more pine forest nearly all the way to Alcazarén. 

NOTE!!  There are no fountains or bars. 

Bring food and water. 

The bar will make sandwiches 'para llevar.'  (To go)

The 18k took us exactly 5 hours and we stopped for picnic half way. 

So it is an easy day. 

Tuna in sauce with olives. Yum!

The walking today is flat except for one small hill. 

A beautiful field of flowers

As we walked into town, we were met at the TI by a nice young man named Victor, who showed us around and escorted us to the brand new albergue. 

Joe with Victor

We passed one market (which closes at noon on Sunday). 

It was about 12:15 but the owner let us do some rushed shopping 

while Victor waited patiently. 

The Albergue has 8 beds, a nice hot shower, 

microwave and fridge (no stove). 

There is an enclosed patio where you can dry laundry. 

A very sweet place.

By the way, there is free wifi at the T I  

 I'm sitting behind it in the shade right now. 

Here are some photos of the albergue:

Nice new beds

The tiny kitchen has only a microwave

Nice shady porch

We again are alone. 

Joe having a siesta

Time for a siesta!

Then dinner.

Ensalada mixta

That evening, 

we met back up with Victor

and he took us on a tour of the village and the spectacular church!

This church is a big attraction here and is not to be missed.

Here are some photos:

Beautiful retablo

The most interesting thing about this church is what was found behind the retablo!  For years, for as long as anyone living could remember, there was a tiny space behind the retablo. It was only large enough for small altar boys to squeeze behind, and they often spoke of "beautiful pictures" and "people" behind the retablo. People thought they were joking.

Earlier days when the retablo was set closer to the wall.

Then one day, they moved the retablo. 

I don't remember why. 

Maybe it was for repair or cleaning . . .

and THIS is what they found behind it:

The fresco paintings are of apostles and angels

Another attraction is the absolutely spectacular cupola 

with art carved by a famous sculptor

I'm looking for the information I brought so I can post his name, 

but haven't yet found it.

Here you can see both the retablo and what's behind it

 This church is worth a visit.

You will have to find the TI and make arrangements

for a private visit as it is not left unlocked.

I have probably 30 more photos

but can't post them all here.

There is much to see.

Visit.