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Monday, January 03, 2022

Annie's Primary Gear List

My favorite long distance walk is 
the Camino Santiago de Compostela,
fondly referred to by many as "The Way."

Since 2006, I have tried to walk every year,
and sometimes more than once a year.

When I talk to people who are walking the Camino
for the first time,
one of the first questions walkers ask is
"What equipment will I need, and where do I get it?"

Walking the Camino can be as expensive
or inexpensive as you make it.
Some people will want to stay in 5 star hotels
and have a transport company carry their luggage.
Other pilgrims will carry a lightweight pack
and sleep on benches and mats or in albergues along The Way.
Some will buy the latest expensive technical equipment.
Others will simply pack from the clothes they already own.

Every pilgrim, rich or poor,
will need a certain amount of standard equipment.

Honestly, most people could walk using what they have in their closets.
There is no need to purchase expensive gear at all.
However, some purchases can make your walk easier.

If you are interested in knowing what I've learned 
over the years I have been walking,
here is a list of my Camino gear
with explanation of why I chose each.

First Purchase is SOCKS:

In cool weather, I often take 2 pair of wool socks and 2 pair of liners.




I purchase mid weight woolen socks, like SmartWool.
They are cushioned.    
Wool socks only have to be washed once each week.
I wash the liners nightly.
The photo shows liners with separated toes.
This is not necessary.
In fact, I've heard these actually CAUSE blisters,
so I avoid them.
I just thought the photo was interesting :)

I do not always wear the wool socks.
If it gets hot, I sometimes only wear the liners.

If I am walking in hot weather, June through August,
I may decide to pick up some inexpensive cotton socks
in one of the many China stores or open markets along The Way.

But I always begin my Camino with wool,
even in summer.
Until your feet get used to walking 20-plus kilometers per day,
they will appreciate the cushion.

Buy your socks before you go to try on shoes.

Second Purchase is SHOES.


On the Santiago Camino Forum there is a constant discussion
about whether or not the Camino warrants wearing hiking boots.
Each person has their own preference.
I can only give you my opinion.

To me, the Camino is not a mountainous hike..
it is a "trek."
It is nothing like the Pacific Coast or Appalachian Trails.
There are not many places where you are scrambling
up and down rocky slopes.
Most of the time,
you are ambling along at a comfortable pace
on grassy or dirt pathways.
There are are few stony places, and some steep places,
but not enough of those to warrant heavy hiking boots, in my opinion.

70% of the pilgrims I've met who ended their Camino early
ended it because of horrendous blisters.
The blisters were caused by ill-fitting shoes.

I can not stress this enough.
You must have appropriate shoes.

This means shoes that FIT
and shoes that are BIG ENOUGH -
because almost everyone's feet ARE going to swell.
Most of us are not used to walking
continuously for 6-8 hours each day
over a variety of track.

And then there are the little places that rub... and rub... and rub.
You know what I'm talking about.
Sometimes it is the heel.
Sometimes the toe.
Sometimes it's where the shoe ties.

Often, with trekkers,
it's the toe rubbing on the front of the shoe
as you walk down a steep incline.
If you'd like to see what can happen to feet when proper shoes aren't worn,
do a Google search on "foot blisters!"
Here's a good example:




YOUR SHOES MUST FIT!

For the Camino, unless you have worn boots your entire life,
you do not want hard-soled boots like you'd wear to climb mountains.
You want a FLEXIBLE shoe that has good support,
has a cushioned sole,
and which has a deep and wide toe box.
This is VERY important!
Your toes need to be able to spread.

You also want a shoe that dries quickly.
There's nothing worse than putting on
a pair of cold, wet, stiff leather boots first thing in the morning.

I do NOT like Goretex.
It not only keeps moisture out,
it keeps moisture in.
And your feet are going to sweat after a few hours.

For these reasons, I always choose New Balance trail running shoes.
New Balance makes a shoe on a shoe-last with extra toe space -
it is called SL-2.
For an explanation of shoe lasts, see the following links.
Please do not pass over it, it is important information:

General Shoe Last Explanation

If you have narrow feet, this may not be important.
But my feet are wide and short.
The SL-2 show last has a narrow heel,
so the shoes don't slip,
and a wide, deep toe box
so the toes don't rub against each other.

With the wonderful fit of New Balance,
you can walk out of the store and directly onto the Camino
with no time for breaking in the shoes.
They fit from the first moment you put them on.
I had only one blister on my first Camino.
It was after my first trek over the Pyrenees
and it was because I did not wear my liner socks.

In past years,  I bought whichever version of #2 Shoe Last shoes New Balance made. If a shoe comes on the #2 Shoe Last, I can be sure 
it is extremely lightweight and comfortable.
These are not waterproof, but if these trail runners do get wet,
they will dry by morning.

For my 2022 trek I bought New Balance 840v4. I chose black, but they also come in grey and I believe in white.



I'm not saying you have to buy New Balance,
but those SL-2 shoe lasts are perfect for the Camino!
Everyone has their favorite brands;
Keen, Merrill, and Ahnu.

Whatever shoe you decide on,
try the shoes on over both pair of socks.
You want them to fit comfortably,
with no tight places.
You want a LARGE toe box
so your toes can spread when you walk.
With your socks and shoes on,
and laced up,
you should be able to wiggle your toes FREELY.

This is not like walking to the grocery store.
Your feet are going to be hitting the ground 6 to 8 hours each day
and those toes will want to spread,
something they're not used to doing in our regular,
walk-to-the-refrigerator world.
A large toe box giving your toes room to spread
will prevent them from rubbing together and causing blisters.

I buy my shoes 1 to 1.5 sizes larger than I generally wear.
The shoe salesperson will try to talk you out of this.
I do not listen.
I repeat:
DO NOT LISTEN
  
Your feet ARE going to swell.
You can always put on another pair of socks,
but you can't make your shoes larger.
 
I generally wear a size 6.5 these days
and I buy a 7.5 for the Camino.
They work great.

Third Purchase is GEL INSERTS.
To me, some type of gel inserts are a must!
They protect the bottom of your feet from the constant pounding
and from pebbles on the path.
I buy Motion Control by New Balance.
They are not inexpensive.
I think I paid about $40 this year.
They're worth every penny!

The gel inserts will take up some of the extra room in your shoes.

I like Motion Control inserts
because they protect the bottom of my feet
from rocks and pebbles,
they keep my foot aligned in the shoe
and this protects my ankles from turning in or out.

To use, pull out the standard insert in each shoe
and replace it with the gel insert.
If necessary, trim them, but beware…
if you trim them too small,
you'll create a place where your skin will get pinched
so go slow and take care.
It's possible Motion Controls won't be available this year.
There seems to be issues getting them, 
as with many things post-Covid.


Doesn't matter which insert as long as it's made to cushion your feet against rocks

Expect to pay between $65 and $160 for shoes.
Expect to pay another $35-40 for the gel inserts.

THESE ARE YOUR MOST IMPORTANT INVESTMENTS
because if your feet fail,
your Camino is over.
Don't try to cut corners on shoes.
Spend what it takes.

In the past belonged to a club called The Clymb.
They offer 70-80% discounts throughout the year
on various types of gear.
If you join (joining is free)
and send out invites to your friends,
and if your friends make a purchase,
you get credit toward your next purchase.
Here is an invite from me, though I' not positive the link is still good:
http://www.theclymb.com/invite/DeborahCarvalho

An example of the money you can save:
One year I paid $160 for a pair of shoes.
Then, I found the exact same pair on The Clymb for $45!
I bought a pair for the following year's Camino!

Be sure to try on the make and model
in a walk-in shop before you order,
so you know exactly what you're getting.

BACKPACK.
Your next major purchase will be your backpack.
Originally, I went to REI and other mountaineering shops
and tried on many packs before I settled
for my Arcteryx Khamsin Backpack.

It was 30L and that was plenty big!



A couple of years ago I bought a new pack.
I purchased a Gregory Jade 28L pack.
Again, I chose a top loading pack.
I like a top loader when traveling in Europe.
It protects you more from pickpockets,
and you can stuff more into it.

Some people use a large pack, like a 65L,
and say, "Oh, but I only filled it half full."
That is not good.
If items are shifting around inside your pack,
you are more likely to get blisters.
Your pack should be packed tightly
in order to work correctly
and keep your body from injury.





Good backpacks come in several lengths,
which was important for my 5'3" frame.
Mine has an internal frame
and holds the weight close to the back comfortably.
The shoulder straps are nicely padded,
as is the waist belt.

I love this top-loading pack
with only one zippered compartment on the outside
which I used for my Nysil pack cover.
The attached adjustable straps were convenient places
to carry my water bottles and trekking poles.
This pack has a hydration sleeve built in, but I generally don't use it.
I choose to carry a bottle and fill it along the way.

Some people like lots of zippers and sections in their pack.
I prefer one big top-loading bag.
I then organize my items in easy-to-grab stuff sacks.
There are less zippers to fiddle with and less weight to carry.
It's also not as easy a target for pickpockets.

Joe, my walking partner, chose an Atmos 38L pack.
It does have a place for his hydration system
and he was very happy with the pack.





When you're shopping for your backpack,
remember, this will be a part of your body for the next 6 weeks,
so it needs to be VERY comfortable.

Tell the sales person that WEIGHT and COMFORT
are the two major considerations.
You want a lightweight pack and you want one that FITS.

Try the packs on FULL.
You should try each pack on with
at least as much weight as you plan to carry.
I suggest 10% of your total body weight.

A good gear shop
will have weights for you to put into your pack
so you can see what it feels like.

Put the weights in the pack, put it on,
and walk around the shop for at LEAST 10 minutes,
noticing things like "Where does it rub?"
There will be a blister there in a few hours!
"Does it pinch me anywhere?"
Another blister!
"Does it pull down on my shoulders?"
Muscle cramps!

Most of the weight should fall on your hips, not your shoulders.
Ladies, find a pack that has an adjustable strap in the front
that is comfortable above your breasts.
This is VERY important.

If you feel any problems at all,
take the pack off and try another.
I can't stress this enough.
If you have to visit several stores
to find just the right pack, do it.

You won't be sorry.

If the salesperson seems clueless or pushy,
ask for another salesperson with more experience.

Don't be talked into a purchase that doesn't FEEL right.
Listen to your body.
A small problem now
will become a huge issue on the Camino.

NEVER buy a pack online
unless you have tried it on in a store first.
You must try it on with weight in it to know it will fit.

Another thing to pay attention to is the size of the pack.
I suggest you do not check your pack.
I suggest you carry it on the plane with you.
A 28L pack will usually fit as a carry-on.
A 65L pack will not.

More than one pilgrim has arrived in Spain
without their pack,
which was lost by the airline.
This is a pain in the kazoo,
not to mention expensive,
to have to replace everything so you can start walking!
Carry on your pack.
Ask your airlines what their specifications are
and buy a pack that can be carried on board.

Is the pack waterproof?
If not, you'll want to buy a nysil cover,
especially if you're walking in the spring.
There WILL be rain in Galicia.
Covers run around $30.
It should fold up very tiny and fit into the front pocket of your pack
where you can quickly access it.





Once you have found a pack that feels comfortable,
take it home, fill it up,
and wear it around the house for a few hours.
If you find any problems, take it back and start over!

SLEEPING BAG.
Your next item of expense will be the sleeping bag.
If you are walking with an Anniewalkers Camino Trek,
you may not need a sleeping bag.
We will talk about that in the newsletters we send you.

How heavy a bag you need depends on the season.
My first Camino was from September to November.
I get cold easy and I found my Marmot Pounder Plus to be perfect!
Weighing in at 1.5 pounds, and costing $130, it was easy to carry.

I originally bought the Marmot Pounder
which only weighs one pound.
Although this would be a great bag for a summer walk,
I felt it was too lightweight for September
after testing it on my front porch in Oregon.

Marmot Pounder Plus weighs 1.5 pounds

Joe simply took a $35 micro fleece liner and he was plenty warm.

Joe's fleece liner weighed about 1/2 pound

I've since found a down quilt works great for me.
I bought a nice down bag and used it for a few years.
It hurt my heart, but after a few years of carrying the bag,
I cut off the hood and zipper (which I never used)
and now I have a down quilt.
I love it!

I recently saw a nice travel bag at REI
called the Helio 55.
There are two versions,
one made with poly-fill and one with down.
Both are lightweight and compressible,
and either would be perfect for the Camino.
The poly-fill is only $59.




This compresses down to 1/2 the size shown.

In the summer, I'd consider simply carrying a silk liner.
I've seen them on Ebay for as little as $19.

Silk liner weigh only a few ounces and pack up smaller than a cigarette pack

That said, one year in June on the Camino,
I almost froze when the albergue in Obanos
where the hospitalero wouldn't turn on heat or give us blankets
and again in Santo Domingo
when I stayed in an unheated convent.
You walk through so many microclimates,
you just never can predict the Camino weather.

If you do get cold,
you can always wear your clothes to bed
or stuff the foot box of your bag with clothing.
I've also covered myself with my ALTUS poncho
and stayed toasty warm.
Fewer and fewer albergues supply a blanket
because of the bedbug issue,
so I wouldn't go unprepared.

If you are walking with AnnieWalkers,
consider a lightweight fleece,
as you will mostly be staying in places
that provide linens and blankets.

RAIN GEAR
Many Pilgrims simply carry an inexpensive poncho.
For me, this did not work.
They tend to flap around in the wind and
I get cold, especially in the hips,
and needed protection from the water so I don't get chilled.
The first time I walked,
I found a featherweight set
of rain pants and jacket made by Marmot.
They kept me warm and were comfortable.

The second time I walked,
I discovered the ALTUS PONCHO.
I'll never look back!




Altus Ponchos come in 3 colors

Made of heavy plastic cloth,
this poncho covers you and your pack from head to ankle.
It has heavy snap closures and comes with its own stuff sack.
Unfortunately,
I've not found a place to order it in the United States,
but you can order it from the sports shop in SJPP
and pick it up when you arrive.
It costs around €45 now.
You can also find the ALTUS in Zubiri,
in Pamplona, in Sarria, and most large cities.

If you are walking with AnnieWalkers,
check with me for the latest information.
Whatever it takes to get,
this is one of the best things you can buy for trekking.
It keeps you and your pack DRY.

In the end, take whatever works for you,
but take some type of lightweight rain gear.

Trekking Poles
Your last major expense is optional.
Many pilgrims, including myself,
purchase walking sticks along the Camino.
Made by the locals,
they are absolutely indestructible and finely made sticks.
You really need nothing else.
You will find them all along the way
anywhere from 4 Euros up,
depending on their decor.
They make a wonderful keepsake.

Fancy and Plain Sticks

The first time I walked the Camino Frances,
I bought one of these sticks.
It worked fine.

The second time,
I was having issues with my wrists
so I purchased Pacer Poles.

I'm sold on Pacer Poles!

There were positives and negatives to both.
The sticks you purchase along the way
are sturdy, inexpensive, and disposable.
If you lose one, it's no problem, you just buy another.

The pacer poles were great for my wrists.
I liked having two sticks on the rough terrain.
However, other times I felt they were overkill.
That said, they were easy to fold up
and strap to my pack for carrying.
The biggest downside was the fact
that some albergues will not allow poles inside,
no matter how expensive,
so you take the chance of having them stolen
by leaving them outside or downstairs in a barrel.
I didn't like that option and more than once,
moved on to a different albergue so I could carry in my poles.

If I were short on cash,
I'd bypass the trekking poles
and just pick up a stick on the Way.

Other less expensive but necessary gear include the following:

MONEY BELT
Do not even consider walking without a money belt.
I've watched in Italy as a thief sliced a woman's pack,
grabbed her passport and wallet,
and got away while she continued walking,
not knowing she'd been robbed.
Then there was the vomiting thief on the bus in Rome! (Ask me)

A money belt is the only safe place to keep your cash,
your credit card, and your passport.
Keep it on you AT ALL TIMES.
Carry it to the shower with you,
putting it in a ziplock bag to keep it dry.

Never let it out of your sight, and never access it in public.
Carry a small change purse for today's money.
Keep the rest in your money belt.
You can buy these online or at travel stores.
Do not buy the ones that loop around your neck,
as they are easy to cut, grab, and run.
Buy the ones that go around your waist
or the ones that fit over your belt loops and tuck inside
your skirt or pants.

Buy a money belt and USE IT!



One year (2014) I bought two different types of money belt;
one by Tom Bihn.
It looks just like a belt, fits into the belt loops of my Macabi skirt,
and held many folded bills
but I found it really wasn't handy for me.
Money Belt Tom Binh

Now that I'm wearing my Macabi skirts,
I also have been sewing my money belt
into the inside of my skirt.
This could be done in pants as well,
by any dry cleaner or tailor
if you don't sew.
I blogged the instructions if you're interested.

HAT
Depending on the season, you will need a hat.
I have two hats.
One is a Tilly Airflow Hat.
I like it because it can be stuffed into my pack,
it is good for sun, and it's also good for rain.
I wear it UNDER the hood of my Altus Raincoat to make visability even better.
Cost was about $35 on sale.
You can often find them second-hand on Ebay.


My other hat
is a featherweight Mountain Hardware Butter Beanie
to keep my ears warm.
The Mountain Hardwear Butter Beanie
is great little headpiece to throw on
or toss in your pocket for a ride or hike.
It's super stretchy,
and has the softness of well-worn flannel.
The inner surface is lightly brushed
and warms as soon as you slide it on.
That same slight brushing on the inner surface
serves to actively wick perspiration away from your skin.

The material that makes up the Butter Beanie
is warming yet it has negligible bulk.
The fabric is thin and the seams lay perfectly flat
and don't bunch.
The entire beanie is stretchy
which helps it cling to your head.
The almost unnecessary stretch band
that goes around the bottom of the headpiece
just seals the deal.
In contrast to other beanies,
this band is slight and doesn't bind around your forehead.
Cost was about $20 on sale.








Honestly,
a ball cap is just as affective as the Tilly
to keep sun off your eyes,
but I love the Butter Beanie.
It's amazingly warm and lightweight.

I also carry a BUFF!
I never go Camino without it.


If you have never heard of this great piece of gear,
go to this link and check out the video: Ways to Wear a Buff

PANTS
I used to take two pair of pants.
I would wear one and carry one.

What's important is that these are lightweight,
quick-drying, and comfortable.
They must not be binding.
Personally I like the travel pants with zip off legs.
I find them for under $6 in the Activewear section of Goodwill here in Portland.





Macabi Skirt
Lately I've been wearing Macabi skirts
instead of pants and I'll never look back.
In fact,
this year I will only take ONE Macabi Skirt.
That's how good the skirt is.

True, they are spendy,
but so are hiking pants,
and the Macabi, to me,
is much more comfortable.

I'm in LOVE with these skirts.
They are comfortable, cool, warm,
have HUGE pockets
that will carry guidebooks,
water, and anything else you need for the day.
They have a secret zippered pocket for cash
and belt loops for my belt.
Here is a link: http://www.macabiskirt.com

These skirts are incredible!
I could have gone the entire 3 months with only one skirt!
They NEVER get dirty.
Literally.
They just don't hold dirt.
When you DO need to wash them,
they dry in 1.5 hours.
They're tough, comfortable, and versatile.

I love my Macabi!
Here is a link to the community wearing Macabi skirts
so you can read what they have to say
and see the various colors and lengths they offer:
http://www.macabiskirt.com/in-the-field
If you buy one, please tell them "Annie Carvalho sent me!"




SHIRTS
I take three shirts.
I wear one and carry two.
I take one long-sleeved shirt for sun or cold weather
and two short-sleeved shirts.
These come in all styles.
What's important to me is that they are lightweight,
quick drying cloth.

I choose to have no buttons or zippers (weight).
Lately I've been wearing merino wool teeshirts.
They are warm in cold weather and cool in hot weather.
They also never seem to need washing.
Hanging and airing each night seems to take away any smell
and I wash my shirts maybe only once a week
when on the Camino.



MICRO-FLEECE SHIRT
Sometimes I carry one heavier micro-fleece shirt to layer if I get cold.
Mine has a zipper at the neckline. However, a few Caminos back I discovered men's cashmere pullover sweaters and now I always take one.



FEATHERWEIGHT JACKET
I carry a featherweight hooded jacket to layer for wind and cold.
It's more like a windbreaker, really.
If it is extremely cold,
I put on my Altus Poncho over everything and stay toasty.










CUDDLE DUDS
I used to carry one pair of Duddle Duds, merino, or silk long johns.
I got the Cuddle Duds at J. C. Penneys.
You can find silk long johns online or at REI
or other outdoor shops.
Last Camino my merino shirt wore out,
and so I bought a bamboo shirt.
I'm sold on bamboo.
It's a bit heavier, but warm, sturdy, and comfie.
These days I take merino wool, silk, or bamboo longjohns.


TOILETRIES

Keep these to a minimum, where possible.
Remember, anything you need you can buy on the trail.
Spain is a modern country with plenty of shopping malls in the larger cities.
Here is what I take:




Sometimes I take a deodorant crystal -
I break a regular crystal and take one of the smaller pieces.
Water will soften the sharp edges.
Depending on my MCS,
I also have been known to cut off and smush
deodorant into a smaller container
that I can just apply with my fingers.
You can see an example in my blog on
"What's in Annie's Backpack 2014" here:
What's In Annie's Backpack?




Liggett's Shampoo Bar -
I use this for showering and washing my hair.
Buy it online and keep it in a plastic soap case.
You can use any shampoo bar.
Try Etsy or Amazon for options.


Fels Naptha -
Used for the cold water hand laundry you'll be doing along the Camino.
You can pick it up in any Spanish Tienda
if you can't find it in your town or online.
In Spain, there are several varieties
of cold water clothes washing bars.
Cut it into about 4 or 5 pieces and share with other pilgrims.
One piece will last the entire trip, usually.
In a pinch I've used it for showering with no problems.

I take a toothbrush and toothpaste, and that's about it for sundries,
unless I've missed something.
I carry a small travel towel. 
I take no comb because I cut my hair very short.
I wear no make up
I certainly wear no perfume
PLeASE do not wear perfume!
It's really difficult for people with allergies
to be stuck in a room with
heavily perfumed people.

If I need lotion I use olive oil I find on the way
If you're a guy,
carry a plastic razor and use your liggets to shave with…
works great.

If you're a girl, consider giving shaving a break
and let those legs get hairy!

That's all I can think of for now except for the guidebook.
If I had to choose a single one, it would be this one.
Mine is dark blue - an older issue - and I still use it.



HOW I PACK
I have a system of packing that works great for me.
I stuff my sleeping bag into the bottom of the pack,
not bothering with a stuff sack.
On top of that go separate nylon or net stuffsacks
containing clothing.

Important Note:
Please ignore any advice
to carry your clothes in plastic grocery sacks and use cloth.
The rattling of plastic sacks in the dark morning
is the bane of the pilgrim
and you won't make a lot of friends in the albergues.

For the same reason,
consider leaving the headlamp at home.
A bright headlamp in your eyes at 5 am
doesn't put you in a good mood!

My cold/rain gear goes on the very top for easy access.
The underneath zipper compartment
holds my toothbrush, soap, and towel.

My water bottle and guidebook
go in the pocketa of my Macabi skirt!
My daily cash goes in a small change purse
(maybe €20 for the day)
My big cash is split up between my two money belts.

That's it!
If you choose to take electronics,
well, that's another post.
Consider leaving it all behind...
In the end, you want to look like this:



NOT this!



Please feel free to ask questions or remind me if I've missed anything.
You're going to have a wonderful time!


Buen Camino!
Annie

Monday, December 13, 2021

Getting From Madrid to Pamplona and More on Pickpockets - UPDATED







Getting to Pamplona From Madrid

UPDATED INFORMATION:
Since writing this blog in 2013, there has been a new bus station added at the Madrid airport. I have not yet used it but I will this April and will report back via blog. My understanding is that it is well-signed, so just follow the signs to the bus terminal - and you can still catch a bus to Pamplona directly from the airport in Madrid.
***

FROM MADRID, you can fly, 
take the train, or take a bus.
Arriving in Madrid is a treat! 

The airport is very modern and beautiful! 

Madrid Airport

Flying is nice, but Spain really is a bus country. Many bus companies offer good, clean and safe service across the country, and most of the buses are beautiful Mercedes Benz buses! Nothing like the old broken down Greyhounds you find in the USA!
An ALSA Bus

There are both regional bus companies and a few national ones. ALSA is one of the national bus companies, and one way to get from the airport to Pamplona when you first arrive.

A CONDA Bus.
 CONDA is another bus company that takes people from the Madrid airport to Pamplona.

If you fly into Madrid, there is now an actual bus terminal at the Madrid airport where you can catch a bus to Pamplona.


On ALSA, you have to change buses, usually in Burgos or Zaragoza, which makes the trip a bit longer. However, it is not a difficult change, especially if you speak a bit of Spanish. 

The CONDA buses go direction from Madrid to Pamplona with no change. This option is the also cheapest, coming in around €25-35.

Arrivals from North America, Asia, South America or Australia are better served from Madrid. Catch a bus directly from the airport Terminal 4 (where most international flights land) to Pamplona or take the metro (or Circanius train) from Madrid airport to Atocha metro station where you can connect with the high-speed train (AVE) to Pamplona in 3 hours. I have done this, and to me, it's easier just to hop on a bus at the airport and I'm on my way to Pamplona!

Arrivals from Europe, fly directly to Bilbao, Biarritz or Zaragoza then travel by bus or rental car to Pamplona in less than 2 hour drive.

CATCHING THE BUS

There are ALSA buses to Pamplona 
several times a day.
You must change buses once.
Check schedules at www.alsa.es 

There are CONDA buses going directly to Pamplona. 
No stops, no changes.
Check schedules at www.movelia.es

The prices between ALSA and CONDA buses differ by 10-30 euros. You can purchase your ticket online or at the airport. I suggest you wait and buy it at the airport in case of flight delays, or just be sure to give yourself plenty of time.

GETTING TO T4 in MADRID

Your ticket should tell you 
which terminal you are flying into.
If you are purchasing online, be sure to give yourself enough time to get off the plane, go through customs, pick up your baggage (not suggested to check bags), and get to the T4 terminal.
Your ticket will indicate where you are landing - it will say T1, T2, etc.

There is a bus going from terminal to terminal in Madrid. It costs less than 2 euros and can be caught downstairs and out front of your arrival terminal. Last time I took it, it was a blue/green bus and to the RIGHT after you walked out of the terminal.

ASK FOR HELP.

Find someone wearing a GREEN jacket and ask if they can help you. Or find the Information desk. They will speak English there. You will recognize it because there is a large yellow "i" above it.
Information Desk
Tell them you are looking for the ticket office for the CONDA or ALSA bus to Pamplona. (whichever you decide on) They will direct you. 

Most of the signs in the Madrid airport are in English as well as Spanish. So it's really easy to find your way around - it's just LARGE!  They also give you the time it will take you to walk to the gate which is helpful.


Getting to Other Terminals

I find the bus the easiest and safest. To get a shuttle bus, the boarding platform is just outside the exit. They often allow you to purchase tickets right there next to the bus – so watch for that. This bus also goes into downtown Madrid. ASK. Sometimes the line is long, but it goes fast. 


The bus from T1 to T4 takes about 20 minutes. 

Going in direction T1 to T4, you want to be on the 1st Floor at the departures level.

(Going direction T4 to T1, you have to be on the Arrivals level, which is the Planta Baja, Lower level)

The terminal to terminal bus runs every 5 minutes between 6:30 a.m. and 23:30. From 23:30 - 1:50 a.m. it runs every 20 minutes; from 1:50 -6:30, every 40 minutes

Getting to your gate at T4 could be a long haul. But it's very well marked, with lots of indication about how much time it will take (though the times posted are very generous and you usually arrive in much less time than they indicate).

A tip -- The elevators in T4 are usually much quicker than the escalators because of the distances between upper and lower levels. 

There is an excellent blog on taking the shuttle into the city at this link:


Taking the Train from Madrid to Pamplona 


FINDING THE RENFRE CIRCANIUS

When I was there last, the Circanius RENFRE office was downstairs right next to where you go through the stiles to catch the train. It was very tiny and could have been a temporary office. It was only staffed by one person, and the wait was long, so don't depend on buying your ticket there if you're in a hurry. You can ask at the info desk in the airport and they will direct you.

In the airport, at the RENFRE Circanius station you can purchase a Tarjeta Dorada card for 5 euros. Then you can just show it to bus or train agents and possibly get nice discounts. Here is a link to more information about that card: 

This card is mainly for train travel, but I even got a discount at the museum in Merida with my card. It never hurts to ask! 

Again, when you arrive in Madrid, you will arrive at either terminal T2 or T4.  You can take the METRO to Atocha Metro Station and walk to the Renfre Station. Or you can take the Circanius to Atocha Station. It takes you right into the train station.

Atocha is the main train station in Madrid. There, you will find trains to destinations all over Europe. It's a big place and is beautiful inside. 

Atocha Station
The Circanius is a train that goes from the airport to Atocha and back all day long. You catch it on the lower floor of T4. Get your ticket from the tiny Renfre office right at the entrance to the train, or from the kiosks. 




There are signs in the airport that will lead you to both the Metro and the Circanius. 

If you are traveling by train, BE AWARE OF WHERE YOU ARE. They do not announce the stops. This is not such a problem during the daytime. You can watch for signs out your window.  But at night, the signs are difficult to see. Don't be afraid to ASK people sitting near you. They are used to tourists and are generally very helpful.

If you do decide to take the train, here are a few videos that will help you become familiar with the territory. Sorry, they're in Spanish, but you can pause them and study the screens on the ticket machine. 

(Often if there is a local, they will help you. Look for young people who may speak English.)





You want to choose ADULTO IDA  (Adult one way) and then your destination.

IF YOU TAKE THE METRO ... WATCH YOUR BELONGINGS!
It is like being in a sardine can and the pickpockets are working!
Be sure your money, cards, cameras, and electronics are really secure.
If you have zippers, I close them with a safety pin or even wire until I get to my destination. Hold your hand over your purse or pocket.  
Be AWARE. 

I know I harp on this, 
but it can save you some grief. 
One year in Barcelona, Joe and I got slimed with the "bird poop" scam. We knew what was going on and as soon as the guy approached, we yelled at him. He ran. If we had not know about it, we would have thought he was just a nice man in a business suit wanting to help us.  And we could have lost a lot.

Read my blogs on pickpockets.  
Know their schemes.
I'm going to post photos at the bottom of this blog to remind you.

Getting to Pamplona From Other Cities:

From Bilbao (169km)

No trains available to Pamplona.
Car (1.5 hours) Direction Bilbao-San Sebastian-Pamplona. Take the A15 from San Sebastian direct to Pamplona. You can also go via Bilbao-Vitoria-Pamplona, 2.2 hrs. We don't recommend this route as it has lots of curves and it’s not free either!
Bus (1.5 hours) Arrive to Bilbao Å› Central Bus Station and take La Burundesa autobuseslaunion.com Tel: +34 944 271111.

From Biarritz (128km)

No train available to Pamplona.
Car (1.5 hours) Take the A63/E70 & cross the border into Spain. Stay on the E70/A8 direction Biarritz- Irún-San Sebastian-Pamplona.
Bus (1 hours) Bus from Biarritz to San Sebastian 12 noon and 6 pm pesa.net then change for a 2nd bus to Pamplona with La Conda condasa.com there are 7 daily buses starting at 7:15am and last bus at 8:30 pm. Telephone +34 943 461064

From San Sebastian (85km)

Train (1 hour 45) Train services from San Sebastian take about 1
hour 45 min to the Pamplona station, which is about 2km north of the old town. Tickets can be booked online in advance (strongly recommended) at Renfe.com.
Car (1 hour) Take the A15 direct to Pamplona and enjoy the scenery. Bus (1 hour) La Conda condasa.com there are 7 daily buses starting at 7:15am & last bus at 8:30 pm. Telephone +34 943 461064.

From Zaragoza (181km)

Train (2 hours) When you arrive at Zaragoza Train Station to connect to the High Speed Train (AVE). Tickets can be booked online in advance (strongly recommended) at Renfe.com.
Car (2 hours) Take the A2/E90 AP68 (toll roads) A68 direction Zaragoza-Tudela-Pamplona.

Bus (2 hours) La Conda condasa.com there are 7 daily buses starting at 7.15am & last bus at 8.30 pm. Tel: (0034) 976 333 372

AVENIDA DE AMERICA STATION.
Other buses to Pamplona will leave from the Avenida de America bus station in Madrid. Here is their address:

Intercambiador de Avda. de AméricaDirección: Avda de America, 9. Planta -1 C.P: 28028 Andén: 27 (Salidas y Llegadas) Planta -1
Horario: 5:30 h. a 01:30 h. (Largo recorrido) 

There are buses going regularly all day long from Madrid T4 to this station. You catch the bus outside the T4 terminal and it costs between 2-3 euros. The bus station is usually the last stop, but ASK the bus driver to please tell you when you arrive. You may have to walk one or two blocks - ask the bus driver when he drops you off to point you in the right direction.

How to Read an Horario (schedule)
If you are over 60, look for a box that says “Edad Dorada” which means “Golden Age.” This will get you a nice discount from 30 euros down to about 23 euros, depending on the day of the week.

IDA means "One-Way." 
IDA y VUELTA means “there and return.” 
SALIDA = Departure Time 
LLEGADA = Arrival Time 
ORIGEN = Origen 
DESTINO = Destination 
DURACION = Duration of Trip 
PRECIO = Price 
PRECIO PROMO – Promotional Price* 
Sometimes there is a special price war 
going on

PLAZAS – LIBRE = This means places are not assigned. You can sit anywhere. Some have assigned seats, so check your ticket when you get it.

LMXJVSD – These are the days of the week this bus/train runs: Lunes (Monday), Martes (Tuesday), Miercoles (Wednesay), etc.Learn the days of the weeks in Spanish. It will make your trip much simpler. 

Be aware that unlike USA calendars, calendars in Spain begin on MONDAY and end on SUNDAY, so it can be confusing.

If you have updated information or questions, please post them in the comment section.

Buen Camino, Peregrinos!

******************
A few photos to enlighten you!


The above photo shows a common scam along the Camino as well as in the large cities of Europe. Bright eyed, beautiful teenagers will approach you with a folder, or a clipboard, wanting to tell you about deaf people or some political issue. As soon as you see them approaching, WAVE THEM OFF AND SHOUT "NO!"  And be very aware of your pockets. See the girl picking the pocket of the man listening to the other pretty lady?

A girl watching for your pin number.
She has the pad positions memorized.
If someone is standing too closely when you are at the ATM, wave them back and even yell at them if they don't move!  It's best to do banking in the larger cities with a partner who can stand back to back with you and watch your surroundings. Be aware of quick handed money grabbers. Keep your hand over the slot that distributes the cash and the card.  Don't be paranoid, but don't let your guard down. They watch for distracted tourists.  If someone wants to talk to you while you're at the ATM, shout them away!  No need to be polite. They count on that!


Haha! 


I have seen this scam in action on stairs and escalators.
Someone in front of you will drop a bunch of change, 
or a package, and items will scatter.
They count on your help picking things up.
While you are helping, their partner is helping themselves to your goods.
I know it's tough, but walk on by.

Yes, they DO!

I"m just reading the paper… and making some money!

This is not the Madrid Metro, but this is how crowded it can be.

Don't trust anyone. Even nice old grandpa types, and ESPECIALLY if they're holding a sweater or jacket over their arm!  Move away from them! Put your back against the wall if you can.

Distracted by a Street Performer while the pickpocket's partner gets the goods.

How they work with a jacket over their arm.

It's not just men. It's women like your sister, mom, or child.
So sorry to have to post these photos, but you need to be aware.
Please read my blog on pickpockets.
These folks don't think like you do.
They are proud of what they do and have no shame in getting caught.

Know what to expect.
Stay alert.
Then relax and have a Buen Camino.