Lunch on the Camino Santiago

For me, el almuerzo (lunch) on the Camino
is almost always a picnic.

Simple and very inexpensive.

It's nice to know you'll have lunch
even if you can't find a bar on the road.

The following items will keep for days,
and are easy to carry in your backpack.

Pick and choose what suits your taste.

The first stop in any village for me is the Panaderia or Bakery.

The above sign is clear,
but remember, the panaderia is not always labeled.

Don't worry, though.
You´ll know it right away.

Follow your nose and eyes.
The wares are almost always displayed in the window.

Remember, they aren't always open all day.

When the bread is sold out,
the doors close to begin tomorrow's baking.

The bread in Spain is OOBER-delicious!

If you don't finish a loaf at lunch,
it makes a wonderful snack mid-meal.

You don't need a knife, just tear it off and dig in!

Because without preservatives it will harden quickly
once you break the crust,

you might keep it in that noisy plastic grocery sack you brought from home!

I love Spanish bread!

I cannot eat bread in the USA .
The wheat is sprayed with bromine
and the loaves are full of preservatives.

In Spain, the bread is baked fresh each day
from clean non-GMO wheat,
and I can eat all I want with no reaction.
Heaven!

You can often find organic bread.

The loaves will be labeled "panes ecológicos."

The label "ecológico" can be found on organic food of all types.

There many regional varieties of bread in Spain.

We'll cover specifics in another post.

But for today, just know you can go into the bakery
and point to whatever looks good.

I generally buy one or two small bollos (small round loafs),

Photo by Mese

 or one long loaf
for under 1 Euro.

A sidenote.

You will often see bags of bread
hanging on gates and doors as you walk through the villages.
More than once, I've watched in horror
as a pilgrim took what was thought of as a gift.

These are NOT FOR PILGRIMS!

People hang these little cloth bags out
and the baker delivers their daily bread into the bags.

PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH THEM.

 Buy your own!

Once you have bread,
keep your eyes open for a tienda.
Almost every village has a tiny market,
run out of someone's house.
There is no sign, no marking,
nothing to tell you what is going on in there,
except the occasional customer going in and out.
Look for a door which is open.
There will almost always be a fly curtain hanging in the doorway.
I can usually smell a tienda when passing,
like an old time grocery,
they just have a particular scent.

Once you establish it is a tienda,
and not someone's living room,
walk right in.
Inside, you'll find all sorts of goodies
to fill your mochila and your belly!

Following are some of the best backpacking foods I found along the Way.

We've already talked about eggs.

You can buy them by the each - and they're cheap.

If you're in an albergue with a kitchen,
you can boil them and cool them in the refrigerator,

and carry them with you next day.

Just be sure to label them in the fridge.
There is an unspoken rule that if it's in the fridge and unlabeled,
it's for any pilgrim who is hungry.
Most pilgrims will respect a sign that says,
'Please do not eat," or "Annie's eggs."

Next, I look for olives.
These are called aceitunas in Spain
and they come in cool little plastic bags.
They do not need to be refrigerated.
Some have pits and are labeled "con hueso" which means with pit/seed.

Others are labeled "sin hueso" which means without pit/seed.

 

Even others are stuffed 

with anything from garlic cloves to pimiento to anchovies.

They add a great deal of flavor, sliced or whole, to a bocadillo!

The next thing I look for is canned tuna.
Called "atun" in Spain, it comes in a nice little package of 3 small cans.
Each can is good for a sandwich large enough to feed 2 pilgrims
or one REALLY hungry pilgrim.
The package below tells me it is "en aceite de oliva" or "in olive oil."
You can also buy it in water,
but consider the olive oil for extra energy
when you're walking such distances.

Don't worry if you don't have a can opener.
They've made things easy for pilgrims along the Camino.
The tuna cans have a nice neat pop-top!

I don't bother mixing the tuna with anything.
I just spread chunks on the bread,
then pour a little of the oil over it and let the bread soak it up.
Wonderful!

You can also find these nice cans of filets.

I sometimes add roasted peppers to my sandwich.
These come canned and are VERY RICH so be careful. 
But the flavor is amazing!
I've lunched on many bocadillos with nothing but pimientos (peppers),
olives, and cheese.

A can of these will last me a couple of days.
I just keep them in a ziplock bag or in the olive bag.
These are a great option for vegetarian sandwiches too!

If I feel like having meat on my sandwich,
there are many options in the tienda or mercado.
You will always see savory hams and chorizos hanging.
This is generally sold by weight,
so if you aren't sure how much to ask for,
just show the shopkeeper with your fingers.
I'll talk about meat in a future post.

The cheese in Spain is fantastic!
The milk is clean and non-GMO.
I suggest you try all the local varieties and I'll post on them another day.
But for now, grab some Manchego, one of my favorites,
which you'll find all along the Camino.
This savory sheep-milk cheese is always a treat!

If you don't have a knife to slice your cheese and tomatoes,
pick one up in the ferreteria (hardware store) down the road
or borrow one from a fellow pilgrim.

Try some of the tomates!
They´re farm fresh,
have not been gassed
and will blow your mind and tastbuds!

Lettuce is difficult to carry,
so unless I´m making dinner at the albergue,
I tend to pass it by.
But it is good for making your own ensalada in the albergue!
Just be sure to wash it good.
This is farming country.

Crackers and Cheese
or Crackers and Fish
always make a good picnic lunch.
There are many varieties of canned seafoods available along the Way.

The canned anchovies are especially good on saltines.

These mejillones (mussels) are in a really nice pickled sauce
and are very good on crackers or bread!

Other great picnic foods you might find in the tienda include frutas of all types.
Vegetarians will do well in the picnic area.
You might see something exotic that you haven't seen before.
Why not give it a try?

Sometimes I've found my favorite imported fruits in Spain at a much better price.
For instance, I might pay over $6 for one cherimoya in the USA -
so it is a rare treat!
But on the Camino, I often found them for under 1 Euro!
If you've never eaten a cherimoya,
please try one.
Just cut it open, and eat the fruit off the skin.
To me they taste like a mild combination of banana and pineapple.

You'll also find a large assortment of dried fruits and nuts.
Of course, you'll find a better variety in the larger city markets,
but even the small tiendas will carry an assortment.
There will be raisins, dates, figs, apricots, almonds,
sunflower and pumpkin seeds, and many others.
Buy them by the inexpensive bag and make up your own trail mix!
Just remember to drink the water your body needs to rehydrate the fruit.

Speaking of markets, if you come across a street market, take a look!
There are all sorts of goodies to be found there!
If your Spanish isn't good, just point to what you want.
You can bet it will be affordable.

Top off your picnic lunch with a VERY inexpensive bottle of local wine.
When I say inexpensive, I mean anywhere from 1 Euro to 3 Euros.
These are not always labeled; sometimes they're locally bottled.
But one thing is certain, they're always delicious!
Half a bottle before bedtime will help you sleep
through the roncadores (snorers) in the albergue!

If you don't want to carry glass, you can purchase wine and juice in little boxes.
These do not need refrigeration until they've been opened.
I've often carried both around for days, even opened, with no problems.
But I'm adventurous!

This boxed wine sells for 0,71 Euro which is just over $1.
It is delicious!

If you'd rather have juice, you'll find it for under 1 Euro for a box.

It also comes in bottles in the cold section.

.Well, that's about it.

These have been some of my favorite lunch options.
On thing is certain,
you will not go hungry on the Camino.
Shopping can be a real adventure!
If you are willing to shop for yourself
and to try new things,
I promise you'll leave the Camino an expert
in the fine art of "the picnic!"

and

 Love,

Annie

Note:  If you would love to walk the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

Looking for a Flecha Amarilla

It's 5 am, 

and I woke up depressed.

I'm not sure why.

My life is not so bad.

In fact, I'm blessed in many ways.

*

But I feel... 

disconnected today.

My ex has disappeared from Facebook,

and I'm worried.

I can't call.

It wouldn't be right.
*

"Why do you care?" my sons ask.

I suppose the answer is,

"Because he's the last person I remember

truly and completely loving me."

*

What has our world become

when people can no longer speak face to face
with one another?

This virus called the web

is smothering our humanity

and it frightens me.

*

My computer

can interact with me, I'm told.

It can "think."

But it feels like a poor substitute today

because it's not talking me out
of my morning depression,

now is it?

It's not brewing me a cup of coffee

and telling me everything will be all right.

*

It's cold and impersonal.

I need warm and loving.

*

There are thing I used to have

that I miss these days.

I miss friendship with a real live human.

I miss having someone care about me.
I miss someone to talk to, to rub cheeks with.

I miss being touched, hugged, laughed with.

*

But a curious thing;

sometimes when I do have the opportunity

to talk to another human

I often walk away feeling empty,

unfulfilled,

broken.

I can't put my finger on it.

It's like I've forgotten something really important

and I can't remember what it is.

Even God feels too far away
to respond to my emails today.

*

Maybe I should just walk out the front door

of this garage-made-into-a-room

and keep on walking

until I'm back on the Camino,

where people actually look each other in the eye,

smile honest smiles,

and say, 

"Buen Camino!"

like they mean it!

*

Life moves slow there,

on that twisting dusty road.

It's simple.

Just put one foot in front of the other

and you'll reach your destination.

Just follow the flechas amarillas,

the yellow arrows.

I'm slower and dustier too,
these days

I've noticed.

And there are no flechas amarillas

anywhere to be found.

No sign to tell me which way to turn,

which road to take.

*

Perhaps that's why I long to return

to that faraway land

of blistering sun and cleansing rain

where I know no one person

but every pilgrim is my best friend forever.

* * * 

I found the following poem
on another blogger's website today.

It felt "right."

Please come back tomorrow.

I promise to have worked through this

and have more to tell you

about eating on the Camino.

Today, however,

is going to be a day of reflection

and introspection.

I need to find a yellow arrow.

* * *

 

it is time for me
to see the flaws
of myself
and stop
being alarmed

it is time for me
to halt my drive
for perfection
and to accept
my blemishes

it is time for me
to receive
slowly evolving growth
the kind that comes
in God’s own good time
and pay no heed
to my panicky pushing

it is time for me
to embrace
my humanness
to love
my incompleteness

it is time for me
to cherish
the unwanted
to welcome
the unknown
to treasure the unfulfilled

if I wait to be
perfect
before I love myself
I will always be
unsatisfied
and ungrateful

if I wait until
all the flaws, chips
and cracks disappear
I will be the cup
that stands on the shelf
and is never used.

-Joyce Rupp
from The Cup of Our Life

* * *

Note:  If you would love to walk the Camino Santiago, 

but are not quite ready to go it alone, 

consider joining Annie

on one of our small, affordable Camino walks. 

For more information see our website 

at this link: AnnieWalkers Camino

Breakfast on the Camino - Coffee and Desayuno

Desayuno, or breakfast, is often the second thing 

on a pilgrim's mind each day.

And unless you are staying at a Parador

or have a bottomless pocket,

the breakfast shown above

will be something a Pilgrim only dreams about!

If you are like me, 

by morning, you've already scoped out the closest bar 

and know exactly how long you'll have to walk 

for that first cup of COFFEE!

It is said the first Spaniard to drink coffee 

was a Jesuit missionary named Padro Paez. 

His journal about his imprisonment in Ethiopia describes it 

as a "dark, bitter infusion."

 100 years later, the Borbon dynasty formally introduced coffee 

to the country.

They've never looked back!

Starbucks can't hold a candle to the coffee in Spain, 

as far as I'm concerned! 

Following are some of the choices you might find. 

Remember, 

some of the smaller villages may not have such a long list.

Save exploration for the large cities.

Generally, you will have at least 3 or 4 choices.

Here is a good option to carry in your mochila 

for those mornings where there is a kitchen 

and the equipment to boil water. 

It is called Nescafé and you will find it 

in just about every tienda in Spain. 

I don't believe I ever paid more than 2 Euro for a box,

much less than I'd pay in the USA, 

so I wait and buy it there.

Open the package and you find these cool little single serving tubes.

It's not the same as a brewed cup of coffee, 

but it's pretty danged close. 

I discard the box and just carry the tubes in my pack. 

They're sturdy and I've never had one break open. 

Pour the contents of one tube into your cup, 

add boiling water, 

and voila! 

It'll get you down the road to the next bar.

Once you locate the bar 

(they almost always are open by 7 am), 

pull yourself up a seat and order. 

Your choices are numerous, depending on where you are. 

You'll almost always have at least these first three options 

in even the smallest villages along the Camino Frances. 

Why not try them all!?

CAFÉ SOLO.  

This is ESPRESSO. 

You will get one shot of espresso in a small glass or cup.

CAFÉ DOBLE.

  This is a double shot of expresso 

and may come in a cup or in a glass, 

as may the single.

CAFÉ CON LECHE.

  This is coffee with milk, generally about half and half of each. 

The milk is steamed 

so it's probably what you would call a "latte" 

except the richness is much greater, 

in my opinion.

You will notice that there are always 2 packets of sugar and a spoon on your saucer. This is standard. If you don't want to use both packets of the sugar, put the packets on the counter and the attendant will pick them up. Or put them in your backpack to use later in those places where you can not find a bar and need to drink your instant Nescafé.

CAFÉ CORTADO or CAFÉ MANCHADO.

This is two shots of expresso with just a tiny bit of milk added.  

It is NOT the same as a Café Bonbon. 

Often, condensed milk is used, so this can be quite sweet.

LECHE MANCHADA 

(different from Café Manchado) 

is hot foamy MILK with a drop of espresso. 

It is a bit like a Cappicino and is very rich; 

nice on a cold Camino morning!

CAFÉ DESCAFEINADO

Decaffeinated Coffee. 

You can ask for it "de maquina" (from the machine) 

or "de sobre" (from a packet). 

It is not generally brewed fresh from beans.

CAFÉ BONBON

 Café Bonbon is also called Café Cortado Condensada. 

It is espresso with sweetened condensed milk. 

It comes layered with the heavy milk on bottom. 

You stir it before drinking.

CAFÉ CON HIELO

 Café con Hielo is coffee with ice. 

It comes separately. 

You pour it over yourself.

CAFÉ AMERICANO.
The first time I walked the Camino, not every bartender understood this.
The second time I walked, they all knew it by heart.
If you are not adventurous and just want a plain old coffee
like you'd have in the USA
order this.
It's a shot of espresso
covered in hot water.

Please bear in mind there will be regional variations, and it can be confusing. On the Norte and Camino Frances routes, a cortado is a tiny cup of espresso with just a dab of milk while a café con leche is equal parts of milk and coffee in a modest serving. However, on the Via de la Plata, you may find a cortado more like the café con leche you are used to, while a café con leche is mostly milk with a dab of coffee - what you might call a leche manchada.

If you drink tea, you have options.

You can purchase teabags in most tiendas and markets.

Carry them along if you have a favorite.

Otherwise, plain black tea can almost always be ordered.

If  you ask for TÉ CON LECHE

it may come with or without

the milk already added.

If you prefer to use your own teabag, 

simply ask (and often pay for)

UN VASO DE AGUA CALIENTE POR FAVOR

* * *

DESAYUNO or BREAKFAST

Buy it or carry it.

The choice is yours.

Breakfast can be a challenge for the Pilgrim. Often, your choices at a bar are a bocadillo, a bocadillo, or a bocadillo! Unbelievable to some, the Spanish do eat sandwiches for breakfast, which often doesn't happen until mid-morning. It reminds me of a hobbit-like "second breakfast."

A good start is the ZUMO. Your heart will sing when you see the telling zumo machine on the bar counter top! It means FRESH ORANGE JUICE for desayuno!

THE BOCADILLO will be offered in nearly every bar. It is a sandwich, and the breakfast version may or may not offer scrambled eggs. You may get jamon y queso (ham and cheese) or any number of combinations of items on a freshly baked bun. If it doesn't feel like the breakfast you're used to, I suggest you get used to eating it anyway. It will sometimes be your only choice and you need the energy.

If you are in a larger city, look for CHURROS y CHOCOLATE. I wouldn't say they are common along the Camino Frances. But you can find them if you keep an eye out.

The chocolate is often very thick, almost like a pudding. The churros are long donuts. The batter is pushed into the hot frying oil with a tube. You eat these with your fingers, dipping them into the thick chocolate. MMMMMmmmmm!

TORTILLA. This is not the tortilla you find in California! This is more like a frittata. It is made most often with potatoes, onions, and maybe garlic and/or peppers. They are cooked until soft and then beaten egg is poured over the top and the entire thing is cooked until firm. Sometimes it is baked. Sometimes it is cooked in a skillet and flipped. However it is done, it is delicious and each one is different. It comes in a wedge or square slice. It keeps well for a full day in your pack if you wrap it up in a napkin. It also makes a great sandwich filling  so if they're offering it, you may want to buy two and save one for your picnic lunch later.

Many villages will have a bakery, and a bakery means pastries! An adventurous pilgrim won't pass up the opportunity to try all the local variations of pastries! Heck, you can walk off those calories in an hour or two! And you're only here for a short time. Enjoy!

Another option is to go to a tienda or market and buy something for tomorrow's breakfast. There are fresh fruits everywhere in Spain. Just remember, "No toca la fruta!" Don't prod and squeeze the fruit - it is not appreciated! This is especially true in the small markets where they buy the fruit by the case and don't want it bruised. Just point and the attendant will hand you the fruit. Don't worry. It's sweet and good, unlike the stuff that is picked green and gassed in the good old USA. This is REAL fruit. Trust...

You can find YOGUR (yogurt) for half a Euro or less. It comes in these nice little cups and travels well. I have kept it for two days in my pack with no problems. It is, after all, curdled milk.

ARROZ CON LECHE 

(rice pudding or rice with milk) 

is another option.

You'll find it in the same little containers as the yogurt

in the same cold case.

It's very good and filling.

MARIA'S

These are lovely milk crackers.

They have different brands but are pretty much the same.

They are not too sweet and are wonderful for dipping

into your coffee.

They make a great snack also.

I always carry them in my pack.

They are always under 1 Euro.

FRESH HUEVOS

Fresh farm eggs are everywhere in the tiendas along the Camino.

They are so much different from the processed eggs you buy in the supermarket, 

you will be surprised. The yolks are dark yellow and sometimes even orange. They stand up rather than run all over the skillet. They are FRESH and full of goodness. Don't pass by the opportunity to eat eggs straight from the farm. You can buy them by the 'each.' You don't have to buy a dozen. I have paid anywhere from 10 to 30 cents each. Take them to the albergue and boil them up. Carry them in your mochila. Peel and slice them, making your own fresh breakfast bocadillo

TOSTADA

In Spain, tostada means "toast."

 It comes dry unless you specify "con" something.

You may or may not get butter and jam.

You may or may not get another type of spread.

My favorite spread was one on the Via de la Plata.

It was made of lard mixed with minced meat,

and colored with paprika.

It is called manteca colora,
and I have a blog on making it at home
if you like it.

Here is a photo of tostada con tomate,

a paste made of tomatos and olive oil.

Delicious for breakfast!

Sometimes, if you stay in a private albergue, breakfast will be included in the price.

Breakfast is continental and generally consists of

coffee, bread and butter, and jam.

You can almost eat all you want.

Local bakeries are often required by law to donate a certain number of fresh loaves of bread daily to the refugios to feed the pilgrims. So be happy that someone loves you!

There are probably many more choices, 

but these have been the ones that I am most familiar with.

In the end, no matter what you order, 

if your Spanish isn't up to par, 

you may get a surprise!

My advice is to be a good pilgrim and take what is offered with grace. 

You will have learned something new, 

and after all, 

that is part of the Camino adventure!

Buen Camino!