Food in Los Arcos

 Your best opportunity for food and los Arcos is at the bar in the main Square. There is also a little place called Casa Emilio Alimentacíon. That little market has everything in Pilgrim’s might want or need and it’s highly recommended. However if you’re here on a Sunday they are not open. There’s a nice grocery store in town. There are two pharmacies. And the pharmacy down in the Square on the highway is very helpful with an English speaking pharmacist. There is also, on the way into the village, a pastry shop that caters to vegan and vegetarian people.

I fell and Los Arcos

 I fell just outside Ciraqui. I have no idea what happened. I was walking on flat road and the next thing I knew I was doing a face plant. I was lucky because I did not break my glasses. My face hit the ground and bruised my nose a little bit but no scrapes. I scraped my knee pretty bad but the worst injury was my wrist which I was pretty sure was broken. 

A nice man stopped his car and asked me if I wanted a ride to Estella and I agreed. He brought me all the way in to town. I managed to go to a trauma center where they suggested an x-ray because they also thought my wrist was broken.

However after a trip to the trauma center and then the emergency room, and x-rays, it is a bad sprain. They wrapped it up good. In fact the nurse wrapped it up so good I almost kicked her because it hurts so bad. They gave me some meds and I’m probably not gonna walk for a couple of days because the bottom line is I can’t pull up my pants.

Maggie‘s knee was swollen yesterday and so she and I shared a taxi into los Arcos. We are going to bus to Viana today. After that I have three days of Taxi days and so by then my wrist should be well enough that I can walk and manage my backpack and gear. I did wake up with some pain in the middle of the night and decided their advice to take the pain medicine three times a day was good advice. I am not a good pill taker and thought I could get by with twice a day but last night taught me I need to listen to the doctor. 

Everyone else had a good walk. They were exhausted when they got in. The weather is changing and it’s going to be in the 80s after we leave Astorga so I’m a little concerned about the need to carry more water and start early. I’m trying to convince them that as soon it is daylight they need to get out and on the trail.

This trip has really made me feel my age. I don’t know if it’s the cancer that has taken my stamina away or two years being dormant while I cared for my mother or a combination of bad and Covid. I don’t know but I just feel I don’t have a lot of energy anymore and I’m wondering how long I will be able to continue leading groups if at all. I’m more of a mind to just walk at my own speed short distances so that’s some thing I’m contemplating for the next few days.

They had a bit of an adventure in Joe‘s group when someone took Matthew’s shoes from Pension Amets in Zubiri. He caught up with the culprit in Pamplona and got the shoes back. Luckily, Joe‘s brother Mike had a pair of shoes to loan Matthew otherwise he would’ve really been in trouble.  The fellow said he took the shoes by mistake, but I guess I’m just not an optimist when it comes to things like this because the shoes were two sizes larger than the guy wears  Personally I think his feet were swollen and was an opportunist  Maybe I’m just getting old and cranky  

The morning when we left Estella we thought there was a fiesta because three men were playing horns marching through the town  We later learned they do this every Sunday morning, which cracked me up, because people were out partying in the streets until 4 AM. I cannot seem to post the video now but I will try to do it later and if not I will post it when I get home

The church here in Los Arcos is just spectacular. When you consider there are only our 3000 people here it’s amazing that they can keep up a church this beautiful.

Pamplona to Puente la Reina. 23.5 k

 

We had a spectacular walk to Puente la Reina today.  The weather was gorgeous and the trail up was much easier than I remembered it. 

At Zaraquigui the church was open. You can get a stamp there. Please leave a small donation. They was a small grocery store and a bar open. 

The walk back down the other side was good. They have put a lot of new rock there so you have to watch your feet, not the scenery, but it is doable. 

We got to Hostal Jakue and I was happy I had reservations. Many people were turned away. They no longer do the Buffet there in case you’re interested. Instead they have a pilgrim menu for 17,50 E. They also have a six euro breakfast and an 11-Euro breakfast. All three must be paid for in advance. You buy a ticket at the reception desk. 

I decided to walk down to the Asador where I am having a lovely ensalada mixta and a Hamburguesa after which I am heading to my room to rest. The food there was incredible.The rest of my group are walking to town to find food.  (actually since writing this they all have come into the Asador for dinner and their food is just marvelous)   I do have photos of the stage and I will post them on my blog later tomorrow if you’re interested.  I’m not sure the Internet here is fast enough but I will try.

Goodnight Pilgrims. 

Zubiri to Pamplona

After a great breakfast at Pension Amets for only five euros, we hit the trail. I knew I would have to walk fast in order to catch the 930 bus to Pamplona at Larrasoaña. The office where I booked the lodging closed early today and so I had to be there before they closed.  The trail was fairly easy and it brought back memories of my very first Camino when Joe and I left in the dark from Zubiri and got lost! That taught me a great lesson about patience and just waiting until the sun came up to walk. 

One of my pilgrims asked me how many steps there were on the portion of today’s stage that goes up from the park past Irotz.  I had never counted them so I decided I would count the steps that go down to the trail from the highway. There were 90!  I think there were probably twice as many going up the trail from the park past Irotz!

The restaurant at Irotz was closed.  That’s too bad because I know many pilgrims depend on it. There was a restaurant open at Larrasoaña.

The Abbey was open. On their sign they invited people who wanted to camp there to speak with them, so if you are a camper this is one place where you might be able to pitch your tent. 

I made it to the bus stop about three minutes before the bus arrived. There is no marked stop. It is directly across from this building. 

I almost didn’t make it onto the bus because I couldn’t find my mask, but luckily there was a nice lady there who had an extra and offered it to me. 

The bus leaves from Larrasoaña at 9:30 and costs €1.70

Well I was making arrangements for everyone’s lodging in Pamplona, they were walking the rest of the way into town. To me this stage is easier than the last two, but I booked lodging about 2 km past Pamplona and so they were quite tired when they arrived. However, I hope they will thank me tomorrow when their stage going over Perdón is shorter. I asked them about restaurants that were open. The one where everyone stopped was either at Larrasoaña  or at Zuriain right where the Camino crosses the bridge and goes onto the N-135. Vivien said the name of it is Casa Vinicsa. Someone took a picture there and it looked like it was really crowded

Everyone was in by 3 PM. Marcia and I had a really nice dinner at cafeteria restaurant RUMBOS. I will post their menu in English. After a bit we were joined by Paula and Gil. 

I did a big old load of laundry and hoping it dries by morning. It’s 10 minutes till eight and I’m ready to hit the sack. 

More tomorrow, 

Annie

Ox Tail Stew. I thought it was delicious but Marcia didn’t like it because she thought it had too much fat. (I like fat)

Cheesecake. This really wasn’t what I would call cheesecake and I would not recommend it. It was more like a vanilla cream pie but not really that either. I just can’t describe it. 

Ha ha ha

I had pork chops and they were good 

though they were a little bit tough

Paula had the half chicken with salad

Marcia‘s Apple cake was yummy

Vivien and Nic

Steep Section Videos

Blogger will not allow me to upload these here. I will do it when I get home in June. 

It also will not allow me to answer comments and much of the time does not let me see the comments. Someone else why I did not post a blog for the section from Borda to Roncesvalles and the reason was because I took a taxi. Later if people want to give me their photos I will post on that section but it was pretty straightforward.

Roncesvalles to Zubiri. 23 kilometers

This will be a photo heavy blog today. Most of the walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri is not extremely difficult but I also wouldn’t call it easy. There are a few sections where you’re going up a hill. But the trail on those sections is very good and it’s just a matter of taking your time. If you need to walk five steps and rest, then walk five steps and rest. Don’t give yourself a heart attack.

After leaving Roncesvalles you walk through a little forest and on the other side of that forest you come to a coffee shop. I believe the name of this is Pension ITURRIALDEA. That is how it is listed in Brierley. It was open and that was where we had breakfast. Well that is where we had breakfast number one. Ha ha Ha. Directly across the street from that is a supermarket and it was open at 7:30 this morning so we stopped in for food to put in our pack. 

None of the restaurants that are usually open in Burguete were open. Marcia was able to fill her water bottle at the church where there is a very good fountain. We continued walking until we got to Espinal. There we found an awesome restaurant on the right hand side. He was serving a beautiful array of breakfast tapas and was quite busy, being the only place open in town. So we had breakfast number two.

I’ve just some hill walking another 5.3 km we entered Viskarret.  Right at the entrance to the village there is a bar and restaurant and supermarket. That I seemed to remember another one farther into the village and so I took my chances and we did find Bar Juan open.  Several people were just walking right by because I think they thought it was closed but we peeked in the window, saw they were open, and sat down for a nice rest and refreshment.

The climb to the top of Alto de Erro was steady and steep. Again I had to stop and rest every little bit but if I can do it anybody can do it.

At the point where the trail crosses the N – 135 Highway, there is a food truck - he has tables where you can sit and rest and have a snack. If you are planning on attempting the 4 km walk down into Zubiri, I strongly suggest you stop here for at least 15 or 20 minutes to rest, to eat, to drink, before attempting the descent. That 4 kilometers is very steep and very rocky and the trail is rough. But again if I can do it anybody can do it.

 I would only suggest you doing it if the weather is dry. If it is raining I highly recommend you call a taxi at Viskarret  and Taxi into Zubiri.  It is not worth risking breaking a leg or an arm to walk this 4 km and there’s no shame in calling a Taxi as far as I’m concerned.

We arrived in Zubiri about 3 PM. I would say it took a good six hours to walk the stage.  

Finding food here is not as easy as it used to be. The roast chicken place is closed. The restaurant where we wanted to eat was full and we cannot get a table. My suggestion is you book your pilgrim menu at Palo Avalleno.  She was serving what looks like a really nice dinner. I managed to walk to the sports center where I got a good Pilgrim menu for €12.50.  I had a Russian salad, pork cheeks and potatoes in Port followed by yogurt with berries for dessert.

I am now in my bed reading my email after a nice shower. I am at Casa Suseia.  There were not enough beds at Pension Amets for me since all of my people wanted a private room. This is a very nice place however and I’m sure to have a good sleep here.  

Tomorrow I may walk part of the way to Pamplona. However I need to arrive there before 2 PM and that’s impossible at the rate I walk and so I will probably either bus or Taxi part of the way. Now I will post some photos from the day.

I apologize that these are not an order but this blogger app easy to use and I haven’t figured it out yet so I will label each photo.

Marcia on the 4 k into Zubiri

This is the food truck at the highway

Vivien

We followed a pilgrim with a donkey cart for a while

This is the restaurant/supermarket at the entrance of Viskarret 

This is the tiny Stone Chapel as you leave Roncesvalles

Much of today’s walk was through beautiful woods

This place had a great breakfast at Espinal

More of today’s trail

Marcia found a smoothie!

Marcia, Gil, and Marla crossing the stream

There were lots of horses with foals

This is Bar Juan in Viskarret

Paula and Gil

For videos of the steep sections, see the next post

The Pilgrim Mass

The Pilgrim Mass at Roncesvalles was especially meaningful to me tonight. When the priest read the nationalities of the pilgrims who had checked in today, it just went on and on and on. There were pilgrims from all of the world on the Camino today. There were five priests attending. In the past, some of the Mass has been in English but tonight it was all in Spanish and though I only understood portions of it, it touched me.

I suppose I am a bit of a pantheist, because I believe God is in everything and everyone, and everything and everyone is in God. I can go to any church, any ritual, or just be out in nature alone, and I can find God.

In one part of the Mass, they turned off the lights and shone a light on the Mother. I need Her loving touch in my life right now, and I pray She will be with me on this Camino. It has been a rough two years for so many people, myself included, and I continue to work on my brokenness. I have much to learn and correct in myself.

The idea that people of all faiths, and those without, can come together in this beautiful ritual, without judgement or hate gives me peace. It gives me hope.

May all of you wonderful pilgrims be blessed with love, understanding, and compassion for each other. And may you have a Buen Camino!

Love,
Annie

BORDA - May 2

My awesome group

Ready to walk!

The obligatory SJPP photo

Marla is happy!

And they’re a little nuts. LOL!

I love this walk!

Marla

We made it to Orisson early!

Soup, beer, and Magdalenas 

My pod at BORDA

Maggie

Vivian

 Today was what they call hell day, but it was not difficult at all for anyone in my group except me. They are all champs!

We had to be out of our lodging at 8 am and not into this lodging until 2:30, so we had tons of time in between. We spent most of it at Orisson. This was my fault because I fell to see the check in time on the email that Laurent, the hospitalero sent me.  What I should have done was have my group spend their morning exploring SJPP.

 Joe, if you are reading this, this is a hint for you.  

Marcia and I walked to BORDA around 12:30 and literally FROZE waiting for Laurent. But once he arrived, things moved quickly. He took us on a tour, told us about the building, and explained what time dinner would be. You only have a four minute shower here so my choice is to wait until I get to Roncesvalles for showering. It is a very clean, pretty place, and it’s run like a ship.  We were not allowed to bring our backpacks upstairs. We were given plastic bins to put whatever items we wanted to carry up into. At first you’re taken aback by that but in the end you realize it’s really a great way to keep the bedbugs down and I appreciate the effort.

I’m not sure if I will walk tomorrow. It will depend on the weather. I feel I need to get to Roncesvalles ahead of the group and get everybody checked in

I’ll decide in the morning  

Love, 

Annie