
When you open the route that interests you, it will show you a plethora of information. The first thing you will see is a short description of the route and a map of the route. Here, I clicked on the Primitivo:
There are several ways to get to SJPP.
You can fly into Paris and take a train to Bayonne, then another train to SJPP.
You can fly into Madrid and catch a bus directly to SJPP during the Pilgrim Season. Buses will be just outside Terminal 4.
My favorite is to fly into Madrid, then bus or fly to Pamplona. (There are buses that you can catch literally right outside Terminal 4 in Madrid that will take you to Pamplona).
Spend a couple of days in Pamplona adjusting to the time change and seeing the city. Then nab an inexpensive bus to SJPP. This way, when the rest of the world is stopping in Pamplona on the way back through, you've already seen it and you can begin stopping "between" the Brierley stages, and hopefully avoid full albergues. It's worked for me on over 20 Caminos and I stick by this plan.
Bus information changes year to year.
Check with Annie or check on the Camino Forum run by Ivar for updated info on bus schedules.
In the last several years, St. Jean Pied de Port has become "the place to start" for many pilgrims. For some, it is because they want to walk over the Pyrenees. The truth is, you are only walking over a couple of hills in the Pyrenees, but it CAN be a gorgeous walk! It is a difficult one, however and the decision to walk from SJPP should not be taken lightly.
Brierley lists the first stage of the Camino as beginning in SJPP and ending in Roncesvalles. This is how I walked it on my first Camino. I was 16 years younger and it almost ruined me.
I had booked lodging at Orisson, having heard it was a good idea to break that first stage up into two days if you weren't in prime condition. The owner of the gite where we stayed in SJPP insisted that we should walk all the way to Roncesvalles. "You can do it!" he said, "It's easy!" he said. So I cancelled our reservations at Orisson and soon realized I had made a mistake.
I was younger and in good shape, and that section was harder than anything I could have imagined. I limped into Roncesvalles in pain, crying the entire way down the hillside, cursing that hospitalero! I was carrying my heavy pack. My feet were blistered. My muscles were cramping. I wasn't sure I would make it. Soon after starting down the mountain, a bus stopped at the top and let a group of tourigrinos out. They were teenagers. They ran down the hill, laughing and giggling, right past me. No backpacks. No pain. "Cheaters!" I thought, and I felt so angry.
Then one young woman stopped when she saw my tears. She asked if I was ok and offered me a chocolate bar. I just started bawling! But that chocolate bar and her kindness got me down the mountain into Roncesvalles, where Joe was patiently waiting.
This was the OLD albergue where we stayed. The bunkbeds were pushed tightly together - I was sleeping (literally) next to a strange man. The ladders were round metal bars. That night when I got out of bed to use the toilet, I screamed when my feet hit those bars. My feet were SO bruised from the walk.
Since then, I have walked that section more times than I can count, and I ALWAYS break it up into two stages.
So that is my suggestion to you, unless you are in absolutely prime shape. Yes, it's only 8 kilometers to Orisson, but it's the 8 kilometers from HELL! And if you don't want to ruin yourself for the rest of your Camino, just stop at Orisson or Borda and rest, then continue on the next day.
You will need to make reservations for SJPP. You can book directly or you can find email info on gronze.com. You can also find information on Booking.com for both gite beds and private rooms. By the way, the lodgings are called gites (jeets) in France and albergues (al-bear-gays) in Spain.
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Refuge Orisson |
About 2 kilometers past Orisson, on the left, you will find Gite Borda. The owner, Laurent, has a Facebook page where you can request information and book beds.
The differences between the two - Orisson has bunkbeds in a common space. They also have overflow, so sometimes you will have to walk back DOWN the mountain you have just walked up. Yikes!
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Gite Borda |
Gite Borda has little cubbies with beds in each, so you have a bit of privacy. Both serve a family style dinner. Laurent is a wonderful host who loves what he does. He is full of information for you.
Both have high ratings. Prices change each year so you will have to check those out yourself.
Another option if both of those are full is to book TWO nights in SJPP. The first morning you will walk up to Orisson, then take the shuttle run by Express Bouricott back down about 2 pm. Have lunch or a beer/wine and watch the pilgrims trudge by while you wait. Spend a second night in SJPP and take the shuttle back UP to Orisson in the morning and continue on to Roncesvalles.
If you decide to walk the entire stage, be forewarned. It is probably the most difficult day of the entire Camino, in my opinion. Get up and out early - take breaks every couple of hours - and be sure you have a bed reserved ahead.
If you are interested in the history of St. Jean Pied de Port, see this older blog post. It is heavy with photos of the route from SJPP to Roncesvalles. Scroll down to find the section on history.
https://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2015/11/starting-st-jean-pied-de-port.html
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Old Albergue |
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New Albergue |
Yum! |
My son and I invested in a Harvest Rite Freeze Dryer a few months ago so while they're at a conference in Las Vegas, I decided to try it out and freeze dry some eggs.
I started with 5 dozen eggs. I decided to put 15 eggs in each tray.
Berkey finally got set up |
Well, a lot has happened in the past week.
First of all, 6 of the ladies from both Joe and my Autumn trip decided they were fine going without me needing to walk WITH them, with a little support from my end. So I've kept their lodging and transport reservations. They have paid me their full fees in exchange, and everyone is excited to walk! This has been a great relief to me, both spiritually, physically, and financially, and I feel they are also relieved. If this works out, it may be the way I offer this trip in the future. There's really no need for me to go along. Generally, after the first day or two, people are confident enough to head out on their own, so we'll just see how it goes.
The house is coming along. Joe spent a few days here helping me this week. We got mom's room completely cleaned out, the carpet shampooed, and the bathroom cleaned. It's ready for Joe to move in.
My Entryway |
Dining Room |
Clean Carpet in Den! |
I can finally hang photos of my family |
I love my living room! |
Joe got the Berkey set up so we'll have nice filtered water.
He also worked on a sprinkler that's been broken and apparently leaking for the past year or so. I had just noticed it before I left for Spain and had been wondering why my water/sewer bill was so high! I tried getting a sprinkler company here to look at it, but they are working almost a month out, so he's going to see if he can't fix it. He did a few other "honey-do" jobs around the house, including moving a giant mirror in my living room, taking down some of mom's decorations, and putting some of my stuff up for me.
I had him up the motion sprinkler to discourage cats from catching the birds at my feeder. We caught one orange tabby... scared the poop out of him, and we laughed so hard at the video. Cameron said it was "mean but effective." LOL! I'd seen about 3 cats going through that flower bed. They must talk to each other because we've been watching, and so far, so good.
Today I moved all the furniture out of the den and shampooed the carpet. I'm also working on the kitchen, going through cupboards and getting rid of the things I'll never use.
I'm hoping to have an estate sale when the weather calms down.
I had a 1.5 hour massage yesterday. I sure did need it. I think one more next week is in store.
My grandparents, farmers, were my primary caretakers and it was quite common for us to go to bed at 8 pm and get up at 3 am. So that's what I've been doing and guess what? I'm sleeping 7-8 hours each night! I feel stupid that it took me this long to figure it out. Waking up at 3 am every morning despite what time I went to bed was exhausting until I figure out I should just go to bed earlier. I don't mind these hours, either. It's so nice and quiet in the world at 3 am. I get a LOT done in the mornings!
My eyes have really been bothering me. I think I need cataract surgery. I made an appointment end of the month with an eye doctor here in town. I went to Costco last time and have had trouble with my glasses ever since, so no more Costco. I guess you get what you pay for.
I'm going to Portland next week for my grandson's high school graduation. Wasn't it just yesterday he was this size and wanted to be a policeman?
I guess that's about it for now. Loving my house and my garden, and enjoying life. Looking forward to sunshine, which in Oregon is anytime AFTER July 4, so I can do some camping.
Life is good!
Annie
I've been home now 4 days.
The time change has been tough on me. Going to Spain is always easier for me than coming home.
I'm taking time to recover ... from 2 years of caretaking mom, from breast cancer and surgery, from this last Camino, from the time change. I did a bit of online research and one thing mentioned was getting out into the sunshine as early as possible. So yesterday I worked outside in the garden from sunup to sundown. It was very healing.
I pulled up parsnips and carrots that had been in the ground way too long. Like me, they were soft outside, but woody and tough inside. The carrots had been in the ground too long and had grown too fat and split. I've put them aside for the worm farm I'll start up again this week. I pulled some of the leeks and onions that had gone to seed and made a big soup when I first got home. Yesterday I cut the bottoms of the rest of the onions off - I think I'll dehydrate them today.
My asparagus plants have a full bed devoted to them. They are in their 3d year. I expected them to be full and lush when I got home, but they were looking awfully spindly, so I got online and tried to figure out why. Thinking I was protecting them, I had planted a row of onions in the same bed. The first thing I read was DO NOT PLANT ONIONS WITH ASPARAGUS! Apparently, the onions steal nutrients from asparagus. So I yanked all of those onions out, staked up the feathery plants, planted four more crowns in the empty space, and topped off the bed with some good quality compost, all the time apologizing to them and promising to do better. I think they'll recover.
I cut back an invasive blackberry bush. I didn't cut it completely out because I love blackberries and would like to figure out a way to keep it. The tiny thornless blackberry out front is full and doing great, climbing the chain link fence between my neighbor and my yard. I made a deal with her that if I could plant two plants there, she could harvest all the berries on her side. My golden raspberries are full and loaded, as are my strawberries. It's going to be a fruitful berry year!
I hilled up my potatoes. Before I left for Spain, I planted a full bed of Peruvian Purple Fingerlings. They are VERY happy, and that made ME happy. I also have a few Yukon Gold plants that seem to be doing well.
Before I left for Spain, I tossed some wild ramps on a pile of dirt in the corner. Looks like some of them survived. Hopefully they will spread.
I yanked out my 8 foot kale plant. I had hoped to harvest seed, but after checking the garden, found 3 new kale plants growing, so decided that was enough. I brought those seeds home from Spain a few years ago. The plants are harvested by pulling off the bottom leaves, and they just keep growing up, up, up, much like sunflowers.
I planted a few Mammoth Sunflower plants again. Last year they grew higher than the house and the neighbor told me how much she enjoyed seeing them, so I put in a few along our shared fenceline.
I cleaned out the last of the Swiss Chard and planted 3 varieties of squash in that bed. I put in a Delicata - last year one plant gave me over 2 dozen beautiful delicata squash fruits and those have lasted all year in storage. I still have two to eat. I put in a black zucchini and a patty pan summer squash. That bed gets full sun all day so hopefully they'll do well again.
The Dahlia bulbs I ordered were sprouting in their bags, so I planted two of those. The rest will go in pots today.
I planted a few rows of lettuce and radishes.
I mowed the lawns after a rough time getting my lawn mower to run. It kept stalling and I knew it had to be something simple. After fooling with it for about half an hour I realized the problem was a safety feature and a simple matter of tightening the handle.
When I finished working in the garden, I hosed down the patio and raised the blue umbrella. It will be a wonderful spot to have coffee and read in the mornings. I'm happy.
I stood back and admired it all. It was after 6 pm when I finished. I was pooped, but feeling good.
I love my garden! Being outdoors brings me such joy and yesterday was a wonderful day.
After a nice hot bath, I got to bed around 9:30 pm and woke up this morning at 4:30. It was the first full night's sleep I've had since getting home. I feel refreshed and ready to tackle the house now.
I'm with coffee and my journals - just checked messages - I've canceled the Autumn trip and have offered to help a few of those pilgrims in exchange for their deposits. I can't afford to devote any more time to the trip without pay. I've already put in hundreds of hours. If they don't feel they want to pay a small fee for consulting, I'll return their deposits and move on. I'm waiting to hear back.
Sunday, I pulled all of Mom's clothes out of her big walk-in closet. It was a HUGE job. Mom had some very nice clothes - she had expensive taste. Many pieces still had tags attached. After looking at it all, I decided I didn't want to sell her clothes in the yard sale. It didn't seem right. I also didn't want to just give it to a shelter because Mom's clothes weren't the type you could just toss in the washer and dryer. They needed care. We have a neighbor who wears the same size who Mom loved. So I called her and asked if she'd like to have the clothes and shoes. I told her, "keep what you want and sell or donate the rest." She was very happy! She and her daughter and friend came over after church and picked them all up. It was a huge relief for me to have found a home for all of those. In her old house, they had taken up four full closets!
I pulled the Berkey water filter out of my office and gave it a home in the kitchen where it belongs. Mom didn't want it in there so it's never been used - I'll have Joe set it up when he gets here, and we'll enjoy using it.
So here I sit now, in my newly decorated living room, getting ready for a new day and a new beginning.
Today, after coffee and some journaling, I do a bit of stretching. Yoga or Callanetics.
Then, I'll start cleaning and pushing things to the dining room and den, where Joe and I will stage for a big estate sale. Joe is coming tomorrow to help me. He is going to move into the house and share expenses for at least a year. He and I get along great and the house is big enough for each of us to have our own private space. The only room we'll share is the kitchen. It will be a big help to me.
I'm making the house my own and it feels right.
Life is good again.
Love,
Annie