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Walking and Talking Across Spain - long distance walking chelates the chemicals that trigger my Multiple Chemical Sensitivities

Monday, November 16, 2015

To Los Arcos

2006

Joe tries the wine fount at Irache
We decided to walk the alternative route though Luquin. It was a hot day and we didn't feel like climbing. The route was nice, but there was no place to stop for food or water. The local bar in Luquín was closed. I've since walked this route two more times and like both this and the main route. This one has fewer pilgrims if you're looking for time alone, though it has more flies!

The view of Villamayor de Monjardín from Luquín
We spent the night in Los Arcos, staying in the Casa la Fuente, which was quite nice and well run.

2012
Spring Group


I arrived in Los Arcos after a 20 minute bus ride and 1,85 euros. 
It's bizarre feeling that what takes people 5 to 8 hours to walk
takes only 20 minutes by bus.
 It gives me a whole new respect for ancestors
who traveled before automobiles or buggies!

Los Arcos is a pretty little town with a medieval feel. 
I was lucky to happen upon the morning marketplace 
and bought fresh fruit and veggies for today's meals. 
Pasta and vegetables will be a nice break from bocodillos!

The cherries are in season now
 and if you can find them at market
the price is much better than at the tiendas. 
They are very sweet and fresh.

I found wi-fi at Panaderia Ogipan
across the square from the church and fountain. 
I had to ask the barkeep for the password and it was no problem.


 The owner's husband at Casa de la Abuela took Brenda and I
for a tour down into the wine cellar. 
We learned that this nipple-like protrusion from the ceiling 
was where the wine flowed from the floor above
into the barrels below 
when they stomped the grapes!


It was very cool down here, despite the heat outside.


The Church in Los Arcos is beautiful and there was a funeral 
as well as a Pilgrim's Mass while we were here.



I got a much-needed haircut while waiting 
for la Casa de la Abuela to open. 
The name of the shop is Peluqueria Lau 
and it is right around the corner from the Albergue. 
She charged 9 euro for a very good haircut!!

Inside Casa de la Abuela
Having some refreshment after the long walk!
Some of the walkers stayed in Pension Mavi.
Some of us are staying at Casa de la Abuela
and it is a sweet albergue! 
8 euros will get you a bed
and for ,50 Sarah will do your laundry! 
The kitchen is well-equipped. 

There are 3 private double rooms here for 35 and 40 euros
and they are very nice! 
The rest of my walkers are at Pension Mavi,
another very nice pension. 
Both places have free wi-fi.

I just had a big bowl of chicken soup
and I'm off to bed for a siesta.
I'm feeling a bit better, but still weak
from the flu.

Tomorrow the group will share an apartment in Viana. 
And then we lose two walkers in Logrono.

I understand we may find a fiesta in Logrono so I suggest everyone gets a good night sleep tonight!


2012
Autumn Group

We left Estella before daylight,
taking the wooded path instead of the main Camino.
Having walked both ways,
this path feels much easier and is cooler in the heat.
Except for the pesky flies,
it's a great path.
But go prepared with food and water,
as there are no dependable bars on this route.

Look who we ran into on the trail!
It's PAM!
Happy as usual!


Up and over this hill is the route we avoided.


The sky had some very interested clouds today.
A lovely walk!


Joe taking a rest.


Another beautiful door!


This fountain is about halfway to Los Arcos
 in Luguin and was a good place to 
get water to drink, 
as well as to soak my hot, tired feet!


The last half of this day
was through hot, dusty wheat lands.



A few kilometers from town,
 I got a frantic call from two of the walkers,
saying I'd given them wrong information
and they couldn't find their hotel.

(They'd failed to read the latest email updates I sent everyone.)

They seemed so urgently in need,
I speeded up my walking
and got to town as quick as I could
so I could get them checked into their rooms.

Five hours later,
they were still sitting in the same place,
sipping their Sangria.
I guess it wasn't as important as it seemed.


And there, sitting with them,
was Patty.
And she looked like this:


I had to ask myself,
"WHY IS PATTY SMILING!?"
Because this is what her feet looked like!
OH MY GOSH!


We all had opinions about what she should do.
Pam suggested antibiotic ointment. 


Clare wasn't sure...


Judive suggested a hot water and salt soak... 

I decided she needed to see a doctor,
and found one nearby
thanks to the help from our wonderful Albergue owner
at Casa de la Abuela.

The doctor cleaned the infected toes, 
put betadine and antiseptic ointment on them, 
and bandaged them. 
A course of antibiotics and she can walk again in a few days. 
Whew!


2013
Walking Alone

It has been a chilly day in Los Arcos. I think the high today was 57. But I'm happy in one of my favorite Albergues, Case de la Abuela.

This place is bright, cheerful, and friendly. The cost is 9 euros. At this time you must make reservations, but the owner is reconsidering as he feels this is killing the spirit of the Camino. 

He serves a nice breakfast each morning for 3,50 euros. One of his regular specialties is this luscious homemade coffee cake. 

If he looks tired, it's because he and his wife have a new three month old baby. No explanation needed. :)






The last time I was in Los Arcos it was hot and all the pilgrims were sitting in the square having beers, Sangria, and tapas.

This is a different story. It is freezing outside! So many peregrinos are tucked into Panadaria Ogipan, drinking coffee and waiting for the Albergue to open. 

I sure hope the sun comes out soon.  


2014 
Autumn Group

Rain again today.

I took the highway the first bit. I've seen the fountain of wine many times and wanted to try to keep my feet dry as long as possible. Most of our group took the recommended route. The walking was perfect, even in the rain, as far as Villamayor de Monjardin. I just love walking in spring!  I cannot get enough of the wildflowers!

I stopped for a drying out rest at the Moorish Well. I've never seen it so full. It was the perfect place to get out of the rain, have a snack and do some reading. 

Gary and Jan took the forest route. The bar at Luquin was, surprisingly, open. I've never been that lucky. 

Lots of wet, muddy pilgrims in Casa de la Abuela tonight, but all are smiling. Some even braved the chilly breeze for Sangria in the Square. Others attended the 8 pm mass. 

My 'Just One Thing' instructed me to 'get more sleep.'  I laid down for a quick nap at 7 pm and woke up two hours later. Yesterday i laid down at 7 and slept until 6 this morning. I seem to be sleeping a lot the last few days. It feels good. My body must be processing all this exercise!

Looks like tomorrow we may get some sunshine. I'm ready!

On to Viana!
Ultreia!


The Moorish Well was fuller than I've ever seen it!

Patatas Bravas and Sangria

Gorgeous skies!



2015
Joe's Group - Autumn

Yesterday, 
the Peregrinas and Joe walked to Los Arcos, 
where they had private rooms 
at La Casa de la Abuela. 

It was a good walk. 
The temperature was cool, a bit windy, but dry.

On the way, they passed Irache 
and took the opportunity 
to fill their bottles with wine!

Below are a few photos of Gretchen. 
Sharon, and Janet 
at the Wine Fountain at Irache.

Pat and Kristen left too early to drink from it.






And here is the path they walked. 

They chose to go the alternative path 
through Loquin.




Below are a couple of photos 

of the reliquaries taken in 
the Church of S. Maria in Los Arcos. 
We have never seen these open before.






Today, the group continued on to Viana,
then took a bus to Logroño,
where they'll enjoy the best tapas in Spain tonight!

Enjoy the tapas, ladies,
and have a grilled mushroom for me!


Meanwhile, next morning...


Ahhh.... I missed having some of this lovely cake 
baked each morning at La Casa de Abuela, 
but Sharon had some for me!


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