The word siesta comes from the Latin hora sexta – "the sixth hour." If you count from dawn, the sixth hour is noon.
Many societies that celebrate the siesta were agricultural, and in cultures dominated by agriculture it was common to have the largest meal of the day in the early afternoon. I grew up in the hot San Joaquin Valley. I was reared by my grandfather, a farmer. At the height of the noon heat, all work would stop and we’d go into the coolness of the house to eat a large midday meal. The heavy intake of food at that time combined with the heat contributed to feeling of post-lunch drowsiness. It’s a lot like the feeling you have after a big old Thanksgiving dinner.
The midday nap is prominent in many countries where the afternoon heat dramatically reduces productivity. The Life of Charlemagne recounts the emperor's summertime siesta: "In summer, after his midday meal, he would eat some fruit and take another drink; then he would remove his shoes and undress completely, just as he did at night, and rest for two or three hours.”
In some southern German-speaking regions, the Mittagspause or Mittagsruhe is still customary; shops close, and children are expected to play quietly indoors.
In South Asia the post-lunch nap is common. In Bengal, the word which describes the concept is bhat-ghum, literally meaning "rice-sleep", a nap after lunch. In north India a colloquial term sustānā (सुस्ताना), which literally means "taking small nap" (possibly of Persian origin), is used.
Afternoon sleep is also a common habit in China and Taiwan after the midday meal. This is called wujiao (午覺) in Chinese.
Some Japanese offices have special rooms known as napping rooms for their workers to take a nap during lunch break or after overtime work.
In Islam, it is encouraged to take a nap before midday.
It is called by some Qailulah.
In the United States, the United Kingdom, and a growing number of other countries, a short sleep has been referred to as a "power nap."
So go figure…
One of the challenges for the Camino pilgrim
is the cultural difference in eating times.
Because the Spanish eat on a different schedule,
you may find opening and closing times awkwardly unfamiliar
until you get into the groove.
There are two periods of siesta in Spain.
One is the siesta time for shops and businesses.
During this time, many people go to a bar or restaurant.
The other is siesta for the restaurants,
who obviously can't rest when everyone wants to come and eat.
A very important thing to remember when you're scheduling your day
are these two siesta times.
One is the siesta time for shops and businesses.
During this time, many people go to a bar or restaurant.
The other is siesta for the restaurants,
who obviously can't rest when everyone wants to come and eat.
A very important thing to remember when you're scheduling your day
are these two siesta times.
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| The Siesta by Van Gogh |
Shops and businesses close from approximately 2pm until 5pm.
Bars and restaurants close from about 4pm until about 8 or 9pm.
Even if a bar is open during these hours,
you will find that their menu for food is very limited.
you will find that their menu for food is very limited.
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| A Siesta by Frederick Arthur Bridgman |
This dead period in the late afternoon
when everything shuts down in Spain
gives the pilgrim the feeling of walking through a ghost town.
when everything shuts down in Spain
gives the pilgrim the feeling of walking through a ghost town.
 |
| La Siesta by Pablo Picasso |
Although some people still work in the fields in Spain,
you may wonder why shops and businesses in big cities close down.
you may wonder why shops and businesses in big cities close down.
 |
| La Siesta by Antonio Gattorno |
One reason is because the Spanish like to have a long lunch.
The Spanish are very family oriented.
Adult children often still make their way "home"
where their mother prepares a huge lunch for the whole family.
Elderly parents, children, and grandchildren can reconnect during this meal,
which can last up to two hours.
Afterwards, everyone needs to digest their food
and rest before returning to work.
The Spanish are very family oriented.
Adult children often still make their way "home"
where their mother prepares a huge lunch for the whole family.
Elderly parents, children, and grandchildren can reconnect during this meal,
which can last up to two hours.
Afterwards, everyone needs to digest their food
and rest before returning to work.
 |
| John William Godwards "Sweet Siesta of a Summer Day" |
Another reason the Spanish stop for siesta
is simply because they want to!
is simply because they want to!
Stopping for a long lunch
allows people to stay up later in the evening without fading.
I learned when we were visiting family in Portugal
that the Portuguese also keep these interesting hours.
We were staying in an upstairs apartment
that has been in my family for over 400 years.
As I brushed my teeth at 10:30 pm one night getting ready for bed,
I heard a horn honking outside.
I went to the balcony and found a car full of cousins
dressed up and ready to rock and roll!
They were yelling for us to come on down and go party with them.
We were exhausted, being American tourists
and not having rested that afternoon.
We declined,
wondering between ourselves if they were absolutely NUTS!
Later I learned about the siesta,
and realized we had missed a wonderful opportunity
to enjoy the company of family and friends.
allows people to stay up later in the evening without fading.
I learned when we were visiting family in Portugal
that the Portuguese also keep these interesting hours.
We were staying in an upstairs apartment
that has been in my family for over 400 years.
As I brushed my teeth at 10:30 pm one night getting ready for bed,
I heard a horn honking outside.
I went to the balcony and found a car full of cousins
dressed up and ready to rock and roll!
They were yelling for us to come on down and go party with them.
We were exhausted, being American tourists
and not having rested that afternoon.
We declined,
wondering between ourselves if they were absolutely NUTS!
Later I learned about the siesta,
and realized we had missed a wonderful opportunity
to enjoy the company of family and friends.
The Spanish nightlife is an all-night affair - visitors to Spain are surprised to see the streets just starting to fill up at midnight and are even more surprised to see people in their 60s and 70s still out at 3am.
It is likely however that you,
as a pilgrim may be too tired, after a long day of trekking,
to enjoy the Spanish nightlife!
It is likely however that you,
as a pilgrim may be too tired, after a long day of trekking,
to enjoy the Spanish nightlife!
UNLESS you have a siesta!
 |
| Siesta by John Singer Sargeant |
Remember these siesta hours and plan your shopping around them.
If you don't take this into consideration,
many stores and restaurants will be closed
and you may struggle to get everything done,
and still hold on to the pilgrim mentality
in the face of cultural incompatibilities.
If you don't take this into consideration,
many stores and restaurants will be closed
and you may struggle to get everything done,
and still hold on to the pilgrim mentality
in the face of cultural incompatibilities.
 |
 |
| Photo by Stevosaurus - pending approval |
For the pilgrim walking the Camino, a siesta serves two purposes.
First, it will help you get into the work/sleep/eat cycle
of the country you are visiting.
Second, a short midday nap will invigorate you
for walking those last kilometers.
Third, if you nap when you arrive at the albergue,
those rustling plastic bags and roncadores (drunks)
won’t take such a toll on your rest.
By the way, if you have low blood sugar
it's a good idea to keep a bit of food in your pack
for those stretches you can't find anyplace open.
First, it will help you get into the work/sleep/eat cycle
of the country you are visiting.
Second, a short midday nap will invigorate you
for walking those last kilometers.
Third, if you nap when you arrive at the albergue,
those rustling plastic bags and roncadores (drunks)
won’t take such a toll on your rest.
By the way, if you have low blood sugar
it's a good idea to keep a bit of food in your pack
for those stretches you can't find anyplace open.
How to Take a Siesta
1. Lie down if possible on the ground, the bed, floor or sofa. If it’s comfortable, you can sit back in your chair. Use a cushion or pillow if you can.
2. Set your alarm for 10-20 minutes.
3. Close your eyes. Use something to block bright light such as a sleep mask, a newspaper, your arm....
4. Let your mind wander or think of sinking downwards. Even if you do not actually sleep, the process will relax your mind and refresh you.
5. Enjoy.
Have a Buen Camino!
Annie
PS: Lately, there has been talk of change, and that the siesta may go away.
We'll see...
* * *
If you'd like to walk the Camino
but aren't quite ready to do it alone,
see my website:
but aren't quite ready to do it alone,
see my website:
for more information about
Guided Walks on the Camino Santiago
and on other Pilgrimage Trails of Europe
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