Getting Ready for the Via de la Plata in March

I spent the morning rounding up items I "think" I will take on the Via de la Plata in March.  There is no pack transport on this route, so I need to pack light. I weigh about 148 right now so I'd like to keep my pack weighing between 14 and 15 pounds, no more.

I arranged everything on the bed, wondering if I had forgotten anything.  I had to go out to the van and grab my laundry items and binoculars.

Now I'll pack this all into my pack and weigh it and see if I need to discard anything.

Here is what I have so far:

Down bag, Pacer Poles, and Knife

My down bag is going for sure!

It will be early March and is likely to be cold in many of the albergues.

I'm not sure yet about the Pacer Poles.

I'm going to walk with them as much as possible and see if I think I'll use them. My tendency is just to carry walking poles and never use them. Depending on the weight, I COULD simply strap them to my pack for the one or two mountains we'll be crossing. Still undecided.

I definitely will take the blade. If I take my Pacer Poles, I'll wrap them up with Joe's walking sticks and we'll check them. I can slip the blade in there, one way or the other.  If we do NOT check poles, I'll just pick up another blade in Spain. They are unbelievably inexpensive there. I think I paid €6 for this one.

Clothes

1 extra Macabi skirt - not sure if I'm taking this. Will know after weighing.

1 pair walking shorts

1 short sleeved shirt

1 long sleeved shirt

2 pair wool socks

2 pair underwear

2 bras/undershirts 

1 silk undershirt (not shown)

1 pair rain pants (in black tube)

1 pair compression socks

1 fleece hat

1 pair gloves

1 puff jacket 

Sundries and Other

1 water bottle - I usually carry this in my Macabi pocket

1 jeweler's loupe 

1 pair binoculars - for art museums and dark cathedrals

1 Tigris umbrella clips (2 pair)

1 extra pair of glasses

1 sleep mask

2 pair of earplugs

1 braided clothesline

1 dozen large safety pins - for hanging clothes on the line

1 plug adapter

1/2 bar cold water clothes soap

Pink towel

1 bar Ligget's soap for bath/shampoo

1 toothbrush

1 travel toothpaste (not shown)

ALTUS Poncho (blue rolled up)

Meds:

4 packets Flumucil

800mg Ibuprofen - about 10

6 Prep H bullets (just in case)

8 Gaviscon - for stomach issues

KT Tape (polka dot stuff)

Backpack

Everything laid out on the bed . . . 

ON THE PLANE I WILL WEAR/carry:

1 Macabi skirt

1 pair wool leggings

1 undershirt

1 merino wool long sleeved shirt

1 cashmere sweater

1 pair wool socks

Trekking shoes

1 face mask

1 hand gel

1 nose spray

We will carry our packs on the plane.

Ok... now to pack it up and weigh it...

I'll report back.

I signed up for TSA PreCheck this week. It was easy. It cost me $85, but with all the flying I do, I thought it was worth it. 

Joe and I have all our lodging reservations made where possible or desired. 

We also made our car rentals to and from the airport.

Just about two months to Camino!

I'm getting excited!

Love,

Annie

**************

Just packed and weighed my backpack. THIRTEEN pounds! 

Hooray! 

Perfect!

Don't Check Your Bags

I STRONGLY suggest that you do not check your bags to Spain. If nothing else, carry anything you will need on the Camino on board. I have had several clients who ignored this tip end up with no luggage in Madrid. The bags were lost and one pilgrim had to replace everything in Madrid. He didn't get his bags returned until 2 weeks into the trip. Pack light and take it on board with you.

I can't advise this strongly enough.

I also suggest you buy walking sticks there. If you don't want to do that, you can wrap up your sticks and check them. Although you MIGHT be allowed to carry them onboard on your way TO Spain, you will have to check them coming back because they most likely will not be allowed through the checkpoint in Spain. Joe has had his sticks confiscated and boy, was he P.O.'d!

Pilgrim Etiquette

A few rules of Pilgrim and Albergue Etiquette. 

Please do your best to play by these rules. It will help make your experience a happier one.

1. You are the foreigner - do not criticize the people, their way of life, their towns, their food, their religion etc. James A. Michener said: “If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.”

2. A bed in a church or municipal shelter is a privilege not a right and should be treated as such. Give a generous donation; be gracious and helpful to the hospitalero (volunteer host) and other pilgrims. (We are paying your lodging so you don’t have to worry about this. But if you decide to return to the Camino on your own at a later date, and many do, please give generously.)

3. If you are able-bodied and have scored a lower bunk, give an elderly or obviously suffering pilgrim your lower and take the upper one. *

4. Use just one bunk. The surrounding bunks are not for your overflow goods. *

5. The space under the bunk generally is shared by both occupants. * The chair next to the bunk is also shared.

6. Don't put your backpack on the bed; it's probably been on the ground, in bars, on the street, in fields, near fountains, and in seen or unseen manure, etc., throughout the day. I do not like to put my pack on the ground, either. Bedbugs travel on the floor. I find a chair and if there is not one, I often ask for one. I often take a rope or bungie cord and hang my pack from the bedpost.

7. Share clothesline space. If things are filling up, adjust your laundry so others have some room too. Consider taking your own little clothesline. Try Rick Steves’ website for travelling elastic lines. They’re great! Take safety pins to hang clothes so they don’t blow or “walk” away.

8. If you are cooking a meal in the albergue kitchen, offer to share – communal cook-ups are great fun and if you can, leave some 'long life' food behind for the next pilgrim. The next person to arrive might need it if they have not been able to buy food en route.

9. Practice kindness. Share some plaster, food, or water. If you see someone in distress, ask if they need to share their troubles. Then, if you can do so, offer help.

10. Don’t expect special treatment, and you will be pleasantly surprised when it comes your way.

11. Put phones and alarms on vibrate or turn them off at night, so as to not disturb or wake up your fellow pilgrims.

12. If you must make a cell phone call after 9:30 pm at night, go outside away from the windows where weary pilgrims are sleeping. Some people are here to escape the electronic world!

13. If listening to a personal stereo or mp3 players in bed at night - please turn the volume down. Others around you should not be able to hear your music.

14. If you plan to leave early, prepare your things the night before, to minimize the racket you’ll make when you get up. DO NOT PACK IN PLASTIC BAGS. They rattle and wake everyone up. Use cloth bags or nysil bags, if you like to separate your items.

15. When leaving or walking through a village very early in the morning, do so quietly i.e. soft voices, carrying those clicking sticks aloft. Other pilgrims may forget, and it’s ok to politely remind them if you feel like it.

16. If you tend to snore, don’t drink a lot of wine in the evening. It makes you reverberate.

17. Wear earplugs so the unavoidable disturbances by others will not drive you to distraction.

18. Don’t leave your litter on the floor. Wash up what you dirty. Clean up after yourself. There is no maid to wash your dishes, pans, or cutlery.*

19. Take short showers to save a little water for later arrivals. *

20. Don't steal the toilet paper. 

21. If you have a cold or flu, go to a private room in a hostal for a few days. No one will be happy sleeping in a dorm with a sick person. It could ruin someone’s Camino. *

22. Do NOT leave your toilet paper along the Camino! How would you like it if I squatted in YOUR front yard and left my paper in a pile? This is a HUGE issue with me! Ladies are the culprits, for the most part. Please purchase a special handkerchief for urinating along the way. You can keep it in a baggie and wash it out each night. OR, carry a baggy for dirty paper and throw it in the nearest trash. You will see a LOT of TP along the path. It’s a disgusting habit. Please do not do it. Be a good guest and carry your litter out with you, even if others do not.

23. Try to do your toileting in the hotel before we leave. If you must use the toilet along the way in a bar, BUY SOMETHING – even if it’s just a coffee or a pack of gum.

24. If you see a receptacle in the bathroom for paper, USE IT. Put your dirty paper in the bin, not in the toilet. These are very old plumbing systems and get clogged up easily by the 100’s of pilgrims passing through the villages. Flush ONLY bodily business and toilet paper down the toilets. Sanitary napkins and tampons go in the trash receptacle, NOT in the toilet.

25. Have patience with shopkeepers and hoteliers. They are sometimes frustrated. People from all over the world are speaking to them in different languages. They are doing their best. Smile and be kind whenever possible.

26. You are in Spain. People speak Spanish there. They do not always speak or understand English. Sometimes if you ask them, “Do you speak English,” they will say no, even though they may understand you. They are shy. Saying a phrase in English and then saying it s.l.o.w.e.r. and LOUDER doesn’t make it any easier to understand. (You wouldn’t believe how many times I’ve seen this done!) Try to learn some basic phrases in Spanish or ask someone for help. Sign language works in a lot of cases… point to the item you want. There will be lots of pilgrims on the road and many will be able to help you.

27. NO TOCA LA FRUTA! “Don’t touch the fruit!” I will tell you this more than once. In many of the small village stores, they get one or two boxes of a particular fruit. They do not allow you to poke and prod and squeeze the fruit like we do in the USA. POINT to the fruit you want and let the shopkeeper give you one. The fruit is generally organic and so maybe not as pretty as you’re used to, but it is almost always sweet and good! In fact, I’ve never gotten a bad piece of fruit.

28. That said, in the larger cities, in the markets, you CAN pick up your own fruit if there is no attendant. You will put it on a scale and weigh it (there are photos on the scale to help you). It will spit out a sticky tag that you will then put on the fruit or the bag so the checker knows the price. We’ll show you how to do this if we’re nearby.

2021 - About Bag Transfer and Security

Hola Peregrinas!

I've had several people email me asking how the baggage transfer works so I thought I'd post the info here. Here's how it goes:

First, be SURE your bags are permanently tagged clearly with your name and contact details. Also, be sure you write in large letters, "ANNIEWALKERS." When we arrive in Pamplona/SJPP, I will give you my Spanish telephone number and you can also put that on your tags if you are not carrying your own phone.

Before our trip, Caminofacil will give me a file with luggage tags for every day of the trip. You will need to print these out and bring them with you. You will also need to bring a tiny stapler or roll of tape (you can pick this up in Pamplona if you forget) so you can attach the paper tags to your bag each day. It might be useful to have a plastic luggage tag sleeve of some kind to slip the paper tags into, but is not mandatory.

From Pamplona and St Jean:
The morning of May 3 (May 4 for Joe's group) the transfer company we hire will take us and our bags from Pamplona to St Jean. The cost is covered by me.
Next morning, you will leave your backpack at your gite and we will walk to Orisson.

We will arrange a lift from Orisson back to St Jean that afternoon for those who do not want to walk back.

You can have lunch in Orisson before you return to SJPP, or wait and eat in SJPP.

We will arrange for the transfer company to pick you and your bags the next morning (unless you choose to carry your bag.) They will drop you back at Orisson to continue walking, and they will take your bags to our lodging in Roncesvalles.

When you arrive in Roncesvalles and after you check in, ask one of the hospitaleros to escort you to pick up your transported bag. Follow him/her to the locked room and get your bag. This is where you will take your bag next morning.

Roncesvalles to Viana:
Before walking, return your bag to the place you picked it up. Look for a hospitalero to help you if the room is locked.

Remember, NEVER PUT ANYTHING IN YOUR TRANSPORT BAG YOU CANNOT AFFORD TO LOSE. I have NEVER had any problem with theft and I trust Caminofacil implicitly. However, your bags may often be left in the foyer of our hotel and the staff can't watch them 24/7. So please, never put electronics, passports, cash or credit cards in your transport bags. Those items MUST stay on your person at all times.

At each hotel until we reach Viana, you will be asked to fill out a tag and leave your bags in the foyer by 8am. You do not have to begin walking that early if you choose not to. However, your bags MUST be placed in the foyer (or wherever they tell you to put them) by 8am each day. 

Once the driver has picked up bags for the day, he will NOT return for late bags. If your bag misses the pickup, YOU will be responsible for paying another transport vehicle or taxi to deliver your bag to the next stop.

The bags are picked up by the driver, and will be delivered to your hotel by 2:30pm – sometimes earlier. I suggest you carry your sandals in your day pack so that if you arrive before the bags, you can change shoes when you arrive.

Bus days
Please be on time to the bus station. I have not yet made the bus reservations, but in general, I make them quite early so we have time to spend in Burgos, Leon, and Astorga, the three major touristing cities.

From Viana, I hire a taxi to take us to Burgos. We will be staying in an apartment there, so I'll be sure everyone is awake and ready to move by around 8 am.

From Burgos to Leon, I haven't yet decided but I believe we will catch a bus.

I will give you clear directions to the bus station. You also can get directions to the station from your hotel reception or you can take a taxi. The bus station in Burgos is central and I usually book a hotel quite close. However, you may choose to share taxis to the bus station. Some may choose to walk the short distance. It’s up to you. The taxis will usually take 4 people per vehicle and they charge PER VEHICLE. Be sure to make your deal before you get into the taxi. But it shouldn't be much more than €5-10 per taxi.

In Leon, again you can walk, or hire taxis to the hotel and back to the bus station in the morning. We usually nab a couple of taxis.

From Villafranca, we will also be taking a taxi. It will pick us up around 8 to 8:30 am and carry us to O Cebreiro. There, you can see the beautiful little village, visit the church, and have breakfast. We will be there about an hour, which is plenty of time. The taxi will wait for us and then carry us to Samos, where we will begin our walk to Sarria. There is a monastery in Samos that some like to visit. That's up to you. Your lodging is booked in Sarria so take your time. There are places along the route to pick up a taxi if you decide to. By the time we reach Sarria, you'll be an old hand at finding a lift.

The last place we may nab a taxi early morning is when we stay in Castañeda. From there, pilgrims pass by and walk to Arzua. If you are going to walk, you can have breakfast at the Camino Santiago Bar right on the corner. However, to make that stage a bit shorter, we CAN have a taxi take us to Arzua for breakfast and walk from there. If you are a purist, this means you cannot get a Compostela because you will not walk 6 kilometers. However, I personally feel we make up that 6 kilometers in all the extra walking we do, and I simply say "Yes" when asked if we walked all the way from Sarria.

I cannot stress enough the FACT that you MUST be ready when these taxis and buses arrive. If you are not ready to go, I WILL LEAVE YOU! I have done it before and the pilgrim was not a happy camper. The taxi will not wait, and if I leave you, you will be on your own to catch a ride to the next place. So if you are a late sleeper, better bring an alarm clock!

Security on the Camino.

A couple of you asked about security. So far, security with transported bags has not been an issue. This is a huge business, operated by many drivers of vehicles under the umbrella of the transfer company. The pilgrims are their bread and butter, and they are very aware of the need to deliver the bags unmolested and on time. They have cars, vans, mini-buses, tourist buses and even trucks.

Again, having said this, please do not EVER leave valuables in the transferred bags. Carry your passport, your money, your credit cards, and your electronics with you at all times. Never put anything in the transfer bags that you cannot afford to replace. This is true in any travel situation.

Bedbugs - there IS a possibility of your bag/pack picking up little hitchikers in the transport bus. If this concerns you, you can put your bag in a heavy plastic bag and tie it up. Just be sure it's tagged as usual. I spray the outside of my pack with permethrin so I don't worry too much about this (more about permethrin in a later post).

About petty crime on the Camino.

In general I feel much safer walking down the streets at night in Spain than I would in any USA city. The violent crime rate in Spain is very low.

However, Joe and I do know personally of 3 young pilgrims who made the mistake of leaving their valuables in their room while showering, to be watched by a friendly pilgrim roommate who they met on the trail. They returned to find all their cash and credit cards gone, along with their friendly peregrino roommate. There was no way of identifying or finding the missing pilgrim. The police just shook their heads and clucked their tongues. These young pilgrims had their trip cut short.

This happened in a large city (Pamplona) in a very large pilgrim hostel, not on one of Anniewalkers' trips.

If you have never traveled before, then please pay attention. Historically, unwary naive pilgrims have been targets for thieves. A few simple precautions can protect you.

BUY A MONEY BELT AND USE IT.

Wear it UNDER your clothing.

Wearing a money belt under your clothing takes some getting used to, but not as much getting used to as the inconvenience of losing all your cash and having to replace your credit cards and passport while in a foreign country!

If you do not have a travel store near you, then go online and purchase a money belt. You can buy them on the Rick Steves website or on Amazon.com and many other sites. 

 I also have a link to making one you sew into your waistband if you are crafty :Money Belt

A few years ago, I wore a Macabi Skirt and a belt. I found the type of money belt that slips onto the belt and hangs to be much more comfortable than the type that fastens around your waist.

ALWAYS keep your credit cards and cash and passport around your waist. Do not use a money pocket that goes around your neck unless it has wire running through the strap. They are easy to grab and break or slit with a knife. The strap is also very easy for a trained thief to spot.

Buy a small wallet or change purse for the cash you will use for the day. You can pick these up cheap in Pamplona at the China stores. Always access your money belt in private, never in a public place.
Never keep your valuables in your day pack. A professional thief can slit it, take your valuables, and be gone before you feel anything at all. 

One year in Rome, we watched a woman put her money belt into the top of her backpack after shopping. As she walked the street in front of us, a thief ran up, slit her bag, took her money belt and ran. She never knew he was there. She just kept walking until she finally heard our yelling! They are GOOD at what they do!

Keep those valuables on your person.

Do not leave passport/money/cash in your room when you use the shower or toilet. Most of our rooms are ensuite. But even so, I suggest you carry a plastic zip lock bag, and when you shower, take your passport and cash into the shower with you unless a trusted roommate is going to stay in the room and watch your valuables.

PURSES. Please do not bring a common purse on the Camino. If you need a place for the day's items separate from your back pack, then use a fanny pack or waist bag and wear it in front. These are great for carrying items such as your phone or your camera and the day's cash. Something like this that holds your water bottle is nice.

Ok. That’s enough about that.
Have you opened a separate account for your travel money? Have you read up on what Euros look like? Did I post that yet? We’ll talk about money matters again before the trip.

Please feel free to post questions or email me if you need help.

Ciao!
Annie

First Aid: What I Carry

What I carry:

AIRBORNE. This product was developed by a school teacher who got tired of picking up every cold and flu that came through her classroom. It is a fizzy tablet that you dissolve in a bit of water and drink. It will keep you from getting a cold or flu that you might be exposed to on the flight to Spain. I usually begin taking these the day before my flight and take them every few hours until I arrive in Spain. If you cannot find AIRBORNE, you may want to take extra Vitamin C for a few days before you leave and the day of your trip. I usually find AIRBORNE at any supermarket or drug store.

NOSE SPRAY! A good saline nose spray that you use regularly through your flight may be the difference between catching a cold or not. Since a South African pilgrim told me about this, it’s worked well for me. The air quality in airplane cabins is horrible and it’s hard being sick on the trail.

FIRST AID KIT. You do not need to bring a large first aid kit unless you have special needs. One of our first stops will be the Farmacia in Pamplona where you can purchase first aid items. You might want to bring about ½ dozen bandaids and a pair of tweezers, and a needle for splinters. I’d also carry a dozen Ibuprofin or whatever pain relieve your use in case of headache or pain. Everything else you might need can be purchased in Spain.

COMPEED is something you will come to love or hate. It is a very thick, cushioned stick-on bandage which comes in many sizes. It is perfect for slapping on a ‘hot spot’ before it becomes a full blown blister. I usually budget about 20 Euros for Compeed for the entire trip. If 3 or 4 people get together and each buys a different size/shape, they can then split up the packages and everybody will have at least 2 of what they need in an emergency “hot spot” situation. I’ll send you a link to my blog on Compeed so you can see how it works.

ALCOHOL with ROSEMARY is a well-known item used by pilgrims. You can purchase it in most farmacias.

GOLFERS VASCULITIS. Many pilgrims who are not used to walking such distance carrying weight experience tiny broken vessels in their ankles the first week. I get these each and every time I walk the Camino. They look horrible, although they’re not painful at all. Stopping to rest and rub the legs with this rosemary alcohol seems to help this condition clear up in a day or two. Share a bottle with a friend!

ARNICA CREAM or IBUPROFIN CREAM is something you can find in Spain. It is excellent to rub on sore muscles after your shower and will help keep down inflammation. The brand name to ask for is Voltaren Emugel. Much less expensive in Spain than in the USA. I carry a tube with me every Camino.

VICKS or PETROLEUM JELLY. I usually BUY THIS IN Spain because you probably will not be allowed to carry it on the flight. It’s not for a cold, but for my FEET! I rub petroleum jelly or vicks on my feet each morning, slathering it between my toes. Vicks is great because the menthol feels good and has the added benefit of deodorizing those tootsies. The Vicks or petroleum helps your toes slide past each other and you are less likely to get blisters. I carry it in a convenient place so if I stop to rest I can give my feet a little rub, and reapply, especially on a long walking day.

COLD MEDICINE. The cold medicine in Spain is highly superior to anything I’ve found in the United States. Hopefully, you won’t get a cold, but if you do, here is a little information you might find helpful.

In my opinion, the best cold medicine is called FLUMUCIL. This is an effervecent tablet like the Alka Seltzer tablets. You drop it into about ¼ cup of water, let it dissolve, then drink it. It clears your sinuses and makes you feel human again. If you have a deep chest cough or expect to get one, you might want to try FLUMIL by the same company. This is a packet of granules. Again, you drop the granules into water, then drink. This breaks up congestion and clears my chest better than anything I’ve tried. Please be sure to check with the pharmacist to be sure these medications will not conflict with any other meds you are taking.

In Spain, you can walk into any Farmacia and the pharmacist will give you what you need at very little cost. In Spain, pharmacists are allowed to give you prescriptions without a medical doctor. To find a pharmacy, look for a big GREEN cross. There is one in nearly every village along the way.
If you take prescription medicine, please bring along the GENERIC name for your medication in case you lose it or run out. Brand names may be different.
We know that your training is going well and that you are going to be super-duper fit by the time we fly to Spain! If not, the first week will be a good work-out in preparation for the climb into the Irago Mountains, depending on where you begin your Camino!

If you have any questions about packing or equipment, be sure to email and ask. It’s best to be prepared.

Hasta Luego!
Annie

2021 - Doing Laundry on the Camino

WASHING MACHINES: When I originally made up the instructions and handouts, most pilgrims had to hand wash their clothing. NOW, there will be several places where we stay that will have washing machines. Offhand, I know there is a machine or washing service (€3-6) in Zubiri, Puente la Reina, Los Arcos, Villafranca, Portomarin, Castaneda, and Palas de Rei.

Laundry soap is provided. HOWEVER, it will be strongly scented, so you may want to pick up a bar of cold water handwashing soap in SJPP or Pamplona and just hand wash your items. (I'll show you what to buy. We can split one bar up) 

Also, I am really careful not to let them dry my items. Those European dryers get hotter than heck and I've had clothes ruined. I usually hand wash everything, underwear, shirts, socks, and rarely have to wash my Macabi. But if you do not WANT to hand wash, there ARE machines and if the machine is in our own apartment we can control the temperature. It's only 3 weeks so you shouldn't have to wash your overclothes often, just undies. (hahaha! we all smell lovely on the Camino!)

That said, here are a couple of old blog posts you might enjoy:

Laundry on the Camino

Taxis on the Camino

If you are feeling poorly, or if you just don’t feel like walking the entire stretch on a day, you have options. There may be a bus to the next village. Check with Joe or I, or the albergue or hotel - they will know. More than likely, you will call a taxi.

If you know for sure you don’t want to walk the entire stage, I suggest you catch the taxi in the morning from your hotel to the half-way point (or wherever you want to go) and walk into the destination from there, as you may not be able to find a taxi out in the countryside. Joe or I will help you if you need to call a taxi. If we are not around, ask the manager of the lodging. They are almost always willing to call for you.

If you are in the middle of the route, find a bar and ask them to call a taxi for you. They almost always are happy to do so.

Taxis generally cost about 1 to 1.50 Euros per kilometer for the entire cab. They should NOT cost more than 2 euros per kilometer at most. That means if you have 4 people, you can split the bill. Be sure to make arrangements BEFORE you get into the taxi. Most taxi drivers are very fair, but every now and then you get a bad apple.

You must pay a taxi with cash – they will not accept a card.Try to have small bills and 1 Euro coins available so you do not get in the position of the driver “not having change!”

There are several taxi rides included in the price of your trip. There also some bus rides included. Some of these leave early morning. We will give you the departure time the night before. 

Please be ready to go and make a note: If you are late, WE WILL NOT WAIT FOR YOU. One year, I left a pilgrim behind in Castaneda. He was not happy, but he was forewarned. I must do what is best for the group. If you choose to be late, you will need to be willing to make your own transport arrangements.

Don't worry, I'll help you with taxis until you learn the ropes! :)

Tips.
It is not necessary to tip a taxi driver. Nor is it necessary to tip waiters. In Spain, they are paid a living wage, unlike in the USA where they get minimum wage and depend on tips. Spanish people do NOT tip. If your waiter has done a tremendous job, and you feel you want to reward them, that is your decision, but know that it is not expected. What people sometimes do is just leave any change from the ticket - so for instance if your bill is €8,40, you could leave the €,60 cents

(Do not bother bringing traveler's checks. I have never found a business in Spain that accepts them)

Anniewalkers 2021 - to Zubiri

The walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri is hilly with a lot of downhill walking. The last 5 kilometer descent into the village can be hard on the knees and you will definitely want to use your walking sticks, especially if it is raining. If you have bad knees at the time, walk slow and take your time. Or if you prefer, we can try to arrange a taxi from Viskarret, about half way. If you DO taxi, be sure to walk out of the village and back in again on the famous Rabies Bridge, a medieval bridge given this name because it was said if you walked your animals around the main pillar of the bridge, they would avoid getting rabies. It's a lovely spot to take photos as well, and the main street of Zubiri is only about 1 city block long.

We will be staying at Pension Amets, a nice little Pension that you can see at the end of the following blog post. There we will have ensuite rooms, a clothes washer, and a line to dry clothes out in the back yard, which overlooks the river.

The owner offers a dinner, which he serves there at the house. I don't know the price yet. However, there is also a wonderful roast chicken place in town. So this is something we will need to decide a few days before we walk. If it's busy, it may be our best option for dinner.

Breakfast is easy to find in Zubiri, and you should definitely eat there because Larrasoaña is not always open. Our host may offer breakfast and if it's reasonable, I'd take it. I think last year it was around €5. Or if you prefer, there is a little market in Zubiri where you can get picnic food for the walk next day. There is a park where you can rest and eat before climbing the stairs and the walk into Pamplona.

One thing I want to warn you about if you aren't walking with Joe or me out of Roncesvalles. Make a note in your Brierley! You will be getting used to seeing the yellow arrows that tell you where to go. They will be on buildings, on curbs, on signs. Out of Roncesevalles, just as you are in Burguete, the trail makes a sharp right and the FLECHA AMARILLA (yellow arrow) is ON THE ROAD, ON THE GROUND, not on a building or sign. So pay attention. If you miss it, you'll still get to Zubiri but will be walking the highway (no fun).

Here is a link to some photos of the walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri:

To Zubiri

2021 Anniewalkers - SOS = 112

You'll most likely be walking with Joe or me over the Pyrenees, but just in case you go alone, please be careful if it is foggy. It is easy to miss arrows and lose your way. A Korean pilgrim was rescued yesterday when he became lost in the fog.

TIP: Right now while you're thinking about it, program the number 112 into your phone. That is the emergency number for Spain. You call this number ONLY in an emergency. It's like 911 in the USA. If you get lost or hurt while walking, and need emergency help, dial 112.

2021 Anniewalkers - To Roncesvalles

From SJPP, we will be walking to Orisson. It is only 8 kilometers, but is quite steep. We stop here and take a shuttle back down to SJPP.

Next morning, we shuttle UP to Orisson, then continue walking to Roncesvalles.  Taking these two short days allows us to "train" while on the Camino, and avoid injury. We've done it for years, and it seems to work quite well.

In Roncesvalles, your dinner is included. We will meet for dinner at 7 pm after we've showered and rested. That will give us time to attend the Pilgrim's Mass and get a blessing for our trip. Even if you're not Catholic, this is a wonderful opportunity and I hope you'll attend.

Dinner at Roncesvalles is generally this: 

First course: choice between ensalada mixta (mixed salad) and macarrones (macaroni with sauce). 

Second course: Choice between fresh local trout or baked chicken. 

Dessert: Usually a choice between fruta (fruit), yogur (yup, yogurt) or flan. Do you know what flan is? It's like a lovely custard. Usually with the trout/chicken they serve patatas (like french fries). 

Wine or water and bread are included.

There are food machines at Roncesvalles, but I never bother with them. Tomorrow morning after a very short walk, we will find several options for coffee and breakfast, including a small store where you can buy picnic supplies.

Here is a link to a blog about previous walks from SJPP to Roncesvalles - lots of photos:

To Roncesvalles

2021 Anniewalkers - St. Jean Pied de Port

From Pamplona we take Mr. Toad's Wild Ride in a taxi to SJPP. 

If you tend to get car sick, you'll want to bring something to keep your stomach calm b/c those Spanish taxis go FAST around the curves. 

Once we arrive in SJPP, we will check into our Gite, then go together to the Pilgrim Office to get our Credentials stamped and pick up our shells. 

After, you are free to roam the beautiful village. Things to see include a walk to the Citadel (photo op), the Bishop's prison, and the church. If you enjoy cooking there is an incredible spice shop there. There are lots of little places to get food or coffee and pastry. There is a sporting goods shop if you need last minute supplies and a hardware store if you need a sharp knife to carry.

Here is a link to some photos of St. Jean Pied de Port over the years:

SJPP over the years

2021 Holy Year Roncesvalles Albergue

On our 2021 Anniewalkers trip, we will be sleeping in a few albergues, even if you have booked private lodging. The word, by the way, is pronounced like this: Al - búr - gay.

The first may be in SJPP. I'm going to do my best to get private rooms there, but must wait until January to know for sure.

However, we always stay in the Roncesvalles Albergue, for the experience. And so I thought you might enjoy seeing photos of the FIRST time Joe and I slept there in 2006, compared with the albergue today in 2019. Quite a difference!

Our beds were so close together back then, they were touching. I had to sleep next to some strange man! In addition, the ladders had small round metal rungs that were so painful on my weary feet!

In 2021, we will be in nice little cubicles of 4. Our group will most certainly be placed together. This is one of the few places you will need a sleeping bag or blanket. We will discuss that in an upcoming newsletter, so don't go out and buy anything quite yet. I'm going to look into it and see if I can rent linens.

The OLD Roncesvalles Albergue - 2006

The NEW Roncesvalles Albergue

Thanksgiving 2019

I just returned from a wonderful Thanksgiving visit with my family in Portland, Oregon.   After Thanksgiving, I flew to Fresno and spent a few days with my mom in Hanford, CA.  Mom is doing so much better! She is walking without the walker and supposed to use a cane, but refuses. She got around great while I was there, cooked, cleaned, and baked cookies.  I feel confident leaving her now. Between my niece and her neighbors, I feel she'll be fine until I return from Spain in the spring.

Me with my sons' father, Joe Barry

Today, Joe Walsh and I will be going over our March 2020 Via de la Plata walk.  We plan on arriving in Madrid on March 3, then nabbing a train down to Zafra, where Joe left off the VDLP several years ago. I picked up the walk from Zafra in 2013 and walked up to Caceres, but since Joe has not walked that stretch, I'll be doing it again. Here is a link to the 2013 walk:

From Zafra 2013

After two nights of rest in Zafra, we will begin walking north on the VDLP, planning to finish in Astorga by April 6.

From Astorga, we take a train to Segovia to spend Semana Santa week there. 

Then back down to Madrid for our flight home.

Joe took a fall this year and hurt his shoulder and leg. I have this pesky Morton's Neuroma that popped up in the spring. So we'll see how we do. There is no pack transport on the VDLP. We will be carrying our packs, so plan on packing LIGHT!

We are going without expectations and are open to whatever plans the Camino brings us. 

I began packing up the van yesterday. Once we've finished going over our VDLP plans today, I will be leaving for Arizona to spend a few months in the van with some of my nomad friends. The WRTR (Women's Rubber Tramp Rendezvous) and the RTR are going to be held in January. I'm hoping to stay in the van until after the RTR, then will return to Desert Hot Springs for the month of February to get ready for our Camino.

Our Holy Year 2021 trips are filling up fast!  I have only ONE SPOT left in my group and Joe already has 3 pilgrims signed up for his trip. So if you'd like to walk with us, now is the time to get your registration in. 

Hope to see you on the trail!

Buen Camino!

Annie