Camino 2020 - Finishing up the Via de la Plata.

VDLP 2009

I've been walking the Via de la Plata in stages. 

2009 - no water!

In 2009, Joe and I walked for 8 days on the Via de la Plata. Against more experienced pilgrims' advice, we walked in the hot summer. We were shocked to find fountains dry and as Rebekah of Moratinos warned, the heat "falling like a curtain at 2 pm."  At one point, we were helped by some fireman, who brought us drinking water.  It was just too difficult of a trek for us that year in that heat. We left the route in Fuente de Cantos and jumped up to the Camino Frances for the rest of our time.

Via de la Plata 2013 SPRING!

In 2013, I returned to the Via de la Plata to walk alone.  I walked in mid-May - a much saner decision.  It was an incredibly beautiful walk! The wildflowers were stunning and there were few pilgrims on the trail. I got to spend a few hours at the Thermal Baths in Aljucin. They had a special price for pilgrims.  Wonderful!

That year, I got as far as Cáceres before having to jump up to Pamplona to pick up my walking group. That year, I found it difficult to find lodging at a certain point, because railroad workers were filling up the albergues. 

Next spring, Joe and I have decided we will complete the route in March/April 2020. I was lucky enough to get round trip tickets from LAX to Madrid for only $450.  We will fly into Madrid, take a bus or train to Zafra, and begin walking there, re-walking sections I have walked but Joe has missed. We will walk from March 4 until April 14, spending the last few days in Segovia for Semana Santa!

Albergue de San Francisco, Zafra

The VDLP cuts off toward Santiago above Zamora.  However, we will take the route to Astorga instead of to Santiago. It's easier to catch a bus or train back to Madrid from Astorga in the time we have.

We plan on spending most of Semana Santa in Segovia. We have seen Semana Santa in Seville, Granada, and other parts of southern Spain. We have also seen it in Madrid. It will be exciting to spend it in beautiful Segovia!

Our tentative schedule looks like this, including kilometers between villages.  (pardon the spacing, I copied this from my Excel file):


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5-Mar	Thu	Arrive Madrid
		Train or Bus to Zafra
7-Mar	Sat	Villafranca de los Barros	20
8-Mar	Sun	Taxi to Almendralejo, Walk to Torremejia	14
9-Mar	Mon	Merida	16.5
10-Mar	Tue	Merida
11-Mar	Wed	Aljucin	17
		Thermal Baths
12-Mar	Thu	Alcuescar	22
13-Mar	Fri	Aldea de Cano	15.4
14-Mar	Sat	Caceres	23
15-Mar	Sun	Caceres
16-Mar	Mon	Cacer de Caceres	11.4
17-Mar	Tue	Embalsa 664.26.27.42	23
18-Mar	Wed	Grimaldo	20
19-Mar	Thu	San Gil	21
20-Mar	Fri	Carcabosa	14
21-Mar	Sat	Caparra / Jarilla	20
22-Mar	Sun	Aldenueva del Camino	19.5
23-Mar	Mon	Calzada de Béjar	26
24-Mar	Tue	Fuenterroble	21
25-Mar	Wed	San Pedro de Rosados	28.6
26-Mar	Thu	Salamanca	25
27-Mar	Fri
28-Mar	Sat	Urb. El Chinneral	22.6
29-Mar	Sun	El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino	15
30-Mar	Mon	Villanueva de  Campeon	13.5
31-Mar	Tue	Zamora	19
1-Apr	Wed	Fontanillas de Castro	25
2-Apr	Thur	Granja de Moreruela	12.5
3-Apr	Fri	Benavente	25.5
4-Apr	Sat	Alija del Infantado	22
5-Apr	Sun	La Baneza	20.5
6-Apr	Mon	Villares de Orbiga or Astorga	24.5
7-Apr	Tue	Astorga
8-Apr	Wed	Segovia
9-Apr	Thur	Segovia
10-Apr	Fri	Segovia
11-Apr	Sat	Segovia
12-Apr	Sun	Madrid
13-Apr	Mon	Madrid
14-Apr		FLY HOME

I'm excited!
I bought a new pack yesterday. No pack transport that I know of on the VDLP, so I'll be carrying as little weight as I can manage. 

Stay tuned to see my packing list.

Buen Camino,
Annie
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Segovia Day 2

Segovia is an awesome town!  We are really happy we decided to take a rest day here. 

This morning I found breakfast right around the corner. 

After, we went to the Alcazar. 10 Euros bought entrance to the Alcazar, the Tower, and an audio guide. If you are over 65, it is less. I think the audio guide was 3 euros and the Tower was 2. 

By the way, you will see these dark 'dots' all over structures in Segovia. They are decorative only and were a way if using up the iron slag left from making cannons, cannon balls, etc. 

Next we had Meni del Dia for 20 Euros at Meson Don Jimeno. 

The owners were happy to give us a sello. 

Their two sons walked the Camino 

and they were very glad to meet other pilgrims. 

Next we visited the Cathedral. It was free for pilgrims with a credential.  

To Segovia

Today's walk was beautiful but difficult!  We left Cercedilla about 8 am. After a coffee at the train station, we headed up up up the road. 

We ate breakfast at a picnic area along the way then continued on. 

Soon we were in the park and pines.
And soon the Roman road was in front of us. 

Read the kiosks. There are several trails up the mountain. All reach the exact same place. Each trail is marked with colored dots on the trees. The actual Camino follows a very rocky, steep path in places and so we chose to follow the green dots, called the Roman road. The path was good dirt and easy to follow.

There were places where several yellow arrows would suggest a route that would turn into a rock scramble. Instead, we continued on the green dot path and did fine. 

There was an occasional rocky stretch but nothing as severe as the Camino paths appeared. We decided they want pilgrims to suffer!  Lol!

It was beautiful but steep hard walking. 

All along the way were small maps on kiosks. Pay attention to these especially as you begin reaching the top. Sometimes a trail would appear to go off on one direction but the map would indicate another way. The map proved to be right each time. 

There was at least one place we saw this white and yellow 'x'.  Usually this indicates do not go this way but in this case there would be a green dotted tree so we continued on. This must mean 'not the Camino trail' but since we were following a different trail, we ignored the 'x.'

It got steeper toward the top but was not as bad as expected. If you have done SJPP to Orisson or the O Cebreiro stretch, this was a piece of cake in comparison. 

Well, maybe a piece of BIG cake!

We saw deer, hawks, and horses. 

At the top we stopped for lunch. 

There is a very nice cold fountain there. However, it is a little difficult to find unless you know where to look.

As you are facing the Camino, which will be an asphalt road straight ahead,  there is also a road going off to the right. The fountain is about 50 yards down that road.

We counted two other good fountains on the way down. They did not indicate they were potable but several local bicycle dudes were drinking and told us the water was very good!

There are many places where you can choose to walk the road. The road could be an easier walk if you don't mind the asphalt. The Camino tends to take you up and down hills. 

Up this path a ways is another fountain. It is small and easy to miss. It is on the right and is marked 'Fuente Romano.'  I believe this is also good potable water. 

When we came to way mark indicating 591 k to Santiago, we turned off the Camino and took the road to Valsain. We met a group of students here who were training to be park rangers. They were very helpful. 

One said it was 3 kilometers to Valsain but in reality it was more like 5 or 6!  Joe and I laughed and said we felt it was 3k until you could SEE Valsain!  These roads seem to go on forever. 

I didn't take photos because by now, I'm exhausted.

In fact, I think I may have been crying.

So it is 8 kilometers UP to the top , 8 kilometers DOWN to where you turn off, and another 5 to Valsain for 21k instead of 31 to Segovia. Here is a photo of that place. You have come mostly out if the pines into a second or third meadow and this choice is before you. For Valsain, take the asphalt road to the right.

 Again, this is the same road you have repeatedly crossed on your way down, so if you are exhausted you could just walk this road. No vehicles pass this road except forest personnel so there is no traffic to speak of. 

By the way, there is no sign indicating Valsain at this 'Y' - you simply take the asphalt road. 

As you near Valsain, you will come to the top of a hill. There is another Y in the road with a dirt road going off left BUT YOU MUSt STAY RIGHT on the asphalt road. 

The asphalt continues to the right down and around a horse ranch. Keep walking down down down. You will begin seeing Valsain to your right. 

Keep walking until you get to a small road going off to the right. I can't recall if it is dirt or gravel or asphalt but it almost feels like a driveway for another horse farm you will see there. It passes the horse farm and turns into dirt. By now I was praying I wouldn't have to find my way clear over to the highway I saw in the distance. 

My prayers were answered!  At the edge of a hill the road goes sharply down and  dumps you right in an old dusty plaza, Plaza Valsain. There is a bar and panaderia there although they appeared to be closed. 

Find a bench and wait. The bus to Segovia picks you up right in that square in front of this building. See photo. 

Buy your ticket from the driver. Our bus arrived at 4:25 pm and we went to the Estacion de autobuses in Segovia. Here is the current schedule. 

We took a taxi to Hostal Natura for about 3,75 euro. 

Dinner was pinchos and now it is bedtime. 

Tomorrow is a rest day. 

We are pooped!

Camino Madrid - Change in Plans

Today, I have changed my walking plans.

Originally, I'd thought I'd bus to Caceres 

and pick up where I left off on the Via de la Plata last year.

But after comparing costs,

 and thinking about the two long bus trips

 I would have to take to complete those plans,

 I've changed my mind.

I've decided to walk the Camino Madrid this year.

It will be very convenient, 

since I'm flying into Madrid, 

just to start walking there!

Here is the plan as it has manifested today. 

Of course, this can change as I gather more information.

Hotel prices are for a double twin room

and I was able to make reservations

on booking.com

The Palacio de Comunicaciones 

May 1: Leave Portland Oregon

May 2 - Fly into Madrid. Hostal Residencia Fernandez €48.  Find the Cathedral. Get our credentials. Locate the Metro Line #10 to Fuencarral so I don't have to walk out of the city.

May 3 - 24k to Colmenar Viego. Hotel Chiscon €60

May 4 - 15k to Manzanares - Hostal Parador de los Galanos €40

May 5 - 19k to Cercedilla - Hostel Aribel Longinos €30

Alcazar in Segovia

May 6 - 31k (whew!) to SEGOVIA!  Hosteria Natura Colon where I got a GREAT price for two nights for €63. Here we will take a rest day and see the Alcazar and other sites of the city.

May 8 - 28k - Santa Maria el Real - albergue

May 9 - 22k to Coca - albergue

May 10 - 25k to Alcazaren - albergue

May 11 - 24k to Puente Duero - albergue

May 12 - 6k to Simancas then bus to Valladolid. We MAY not do this because it is a Monday and all the museums will be closed. But it is an option. Hostal Paris €42,75

Hostal Paris Valladolid

May 13 - bus to Simancas then walk 6k to Cigunuela - albergue

May 14 - 24k to Castromonte - albergue

May 15 - 14k to Medina - convent

May 16 - 27k to Villalon - albergue

May 17 - 17k to Santervas de Campos - albergue

May 18 - 22k to Sahagun - albergue

May 19 - Train to Pamplona €30

Roman Aquaduct in Segovia